That is a great size trailer and it is it a U-Haul? Tires look smaller and wider and it look shorter than a typical U-Haul. Just wanted to know in order to make one like it...copy cat thing. Could you confirm, thanks, BC
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That is a great size trailer and it is it a U-Haul? Tires look smaller and wider and it look shorter than a typical U-Haul. Just wanted to know in order to make one like it...copy cat thing. Could you confirm, thanks, BC
Yes it was the standard UHAUL "Auto Transport" I bought the extra insurance and I think it was still under $70
It may not be the most exciting update but at least I am back at it. I have being going back and forth in my head as to what parts to use on the car and now I'm FINALLY moving forward.
I spent an hour tightening up a lot of bolts that were just hand tight and got everything pretty close to final torque specs.
This weekend I bought some more parts, so I should have everything I need now to make it a roller.
I also got a pretty good deal on an STi steering rack in great shape, with the solid linkage so that will be going in soon.
I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the brakes. (thank you turbo tax)
Within a few weeks I should have a roller. Pretty excited about that.
What's good/better about it, exactly?Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
A slightly faster ratio than the 05 WRX rack I was planning on using; and a solid coupler, which doesn't have a rubber isolator like the WRX's
Steering rack is installed. I had to do some grinding and filing. I ran some of the cooling flex hose, trying to decide if I want to go with the hard pipes or not.
Attachment 25847Attachment 25848
I installed some more of the sheet metal temporarily so I can figure out the routing of my brake and clutch lines. It looks like FFR mounted the drivers side sway bar mount support on backwards... I was wondering why the sheet metal was notched and then I saw the other side. Anyone else's welded this way?
oops?Attachment 25844Attachment 25845Attachment 25846
Mine is also welded like that.
Mine is also welded like that on the driver side, but the aluminum panel was not notched. On the passenger side the panel came with a notch and it is needed. Go figure.
I'm still waiting to see how you mounted your e-brake. :D
Great I guess they updated the cut program for later chassis.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZPete
Stay tuned. Waiting on my cousin to send me a few parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3
Silly radiator support.
So I was ready to install the cooling system so I decided first to mount the radiator support. It wouldn't fit, the instructions showed the nose brackets on the outside of the frame but there was no way. I measured off the outside and one bracket was definitely in wrong spot. I measured and measured and measured, finally figured out that the right bracket seemed to be in the right location and the left was off by about 1/4 inch. Using a few washers and then bolting the bracket to the inside seemed to work. the distance between the corner of the bracket and the ball joint is now an even 13"
I then took the nose aluminum to verify and sure enough, the notch is about 1/4 off. How frustrating, what should have taken 45 minutes took close to 3 hours.
not lining up
Attachment 27061
not lining up
Attachment 27062
not lining up
Attachment 27063
bolted the right to the outside,
the left is on the inside with a gap
Attachment 27064
one washer seems to work on the top, needed two on the bottom (bracket must have heat warped)
Attachment 27065
verified the bracket is wrong
Attachment 27066
did anyone else have this problem?
Mine was also off by around 1/4". I didn't figure out why like you did, but I did fill the space with washers.
I was figuring everyone had this problem...
Mine was actually correct though six star cars documented a similar issue.
Same problem (frame #25). I centered the radiator support to the frame, bent a couple of tabs, added a couple of washers, bolted it and moved on.
Same here, #91
Yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZPete
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZPete
Yes it's water under the bridge at this point, but since I couldn't find any mention of it, I just wanted it documented in case future builders have the issue.
Thanks... I was just scratching my head over this, and spacers were my plan. Glad to know I'm not alone!Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
This thread's up again? I thought we locked it? :o
Mine, the GRM and chassis #30 fit exactly
Hey, longislandwrx, how about that E-brake mount you mentioned a long time ago? I'd like to see what you did before I install mine. Please?
Sid you do anything to rack or just plug up the power steering hose connections?Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
I'll send you a pm... not ready to let the cat out of the bag yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZPete
Just plugged/looped for now, there was a nub under the sti rack that had to be removed that was hitting the bracket... I want to do a full Rasmus depower/shave but I will wait until its a little warmer out, I need to wire wheel and repaint it as well. Pretty soon it will be warm enough to keep the garage door open and I can knock all this stuff out in an afternoon without asphyxiating myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Mine, nicks and justin all from R.I all lined up. My chassis is #13Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Presley
Mine is #17, lined up perfect
mine lined up fine...my aluminum was mis-cut so I just made the tabs bigger
Wow all I can say is choose your donor carefully and you will save HOURS of time.
My knuckles came from Oregon and all I can say is damn! The long bolt pulled out of the rear knuckle by hand, they still have their original magnetite finish and the dust shields and backing plates have all their factory paint. I was anticipating at minimum wire wheeling, and worse case a Rasmus bucket-o-Doom but all these need is a quick brushing and rinse.
Compare that to an east coast salt belt knuckles like the ones currently on my WRX that look like they came off a 40 year old Chevy Vega.
Pictures later.
Also one of the front axles looks to have been replaced... the size difference is comical. I have two options, find a new/used factory inner cv or buy a replacement axle for my daily driver and take the factory one. I'll see what I can find.
Tell me about it! :(Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
But it's almost impossible around here (my place) to choose carefully, as no one (but me) maintains their cars carefully.
There is worse than that. You are very very very lucky, take that as a "I will finish my build soon". lolll So we give you another month to complete everything and show us street videos. lolllQuote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
This rings true. Pay more and get a donor out of Arizona. Save yourself oodles of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
They do not allow salt on the roads in Oregon. :)
Did I mention how much time you save by picking a non salt state donor?
This is how my rear knuckles looked when they arrived:
Attachment 27438
Here's how they look after 3 minutes of cleaning with a sponge:
Attachment 27439
I got the pedal box mounted today, getting ready to mount the master, I got the heads of the bolts ground down enough to clear the box only to find out the 1" ones specified in the manual weren't long enough, tomorrow I will grab some 1.5" ones.
Also got the front knuckles mounted, the steering column cleaned up and started figuring out how my rear suspension will all come together.
Soon as my bump steer kit comes, and the column fits i'll be able to steer this thing!
that is NOT a mistake... The sway bar isn't straight, one side mounts about 1 inch lower on the chassis. That's why one side is notched and the other isn't. This means we can't go to a straight sway bar unless we redrill and move one of the bushing mounts.Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
Dan thanks, that's good to know... I was considering using a 2008 sway bar, I'm trying to track one down to test fit. I hope there's enough bracket to make it work.
Check out that "new" backing plate on that knuckle! :) You lucky! :)
I need to buy 2 new ones, 100 bucks each. :(
It looks like there is plenty of bracket. I'd be more concerned about the "arms" that go from the bar to the end. That bar is one convoluted piece of steel! I want to go to a straight bar for increased room under the hood eventually. I'm thinking two radiators in front and vents over the front wheels. That leaves a huge space in the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
I'm also working on a heater/defroster... and need some space there. It may actually be easiest to use an electric heater for the feet and defrost. I already bought seat heaters.
Or you could ditch the sway bar altogether...
I would prefer to start my chassis development work from the FFR/KONI baseline... They know what they are doing and put a ton of seat time/development work into it. That's also why I went with the yellow Koni shocks for my S model vs the reds. They had sent me a pair of each :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Xusia
Got a little bit done this weekend... man it felt good to have the garage door open for a change.
I pressed out my rear knuckle trailing arm bushings and replaced them with the TIC counterparts.
Got the gas pedal mount squared away (added a rivet for strength near the top) Any tips on how to drill that top rivnut without cutting a drill bit in half or drilling through the whole framer?
throttle works, and hits full right as the pedal arm hits the pedal box so a spacer is out of the question.
I also ran my front brake lines and started laying out the clutch/rears... on the fence if I want to go down the tunnel or not. Need to shorten them a little, but waiting on the flex lines to see how much.
Attachment 27901
I was also ready to build my axles but just like everyone else it looks like I have another set of aftermarkets. These were good "fake" ones at least, oem green and everything.
Sunday was spent on Spring cleanup, 6 yards of mulch arriving this week... oh joy!
Oh well progress made! Just waiting on parts again.
I have not been following the axle issue, what is the issue with aftermarket axles ? I just did mine this weekend and no issues that I know aboutQuote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
Many of the donors as you would expect have non Subaru aftermarket CV / axles and don't work with the FFR supplies axles I had what looked like OEM axles, but it turns out they are not.