Haha! Good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Presley
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Haha! Good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Presley
Hey Chad,
What size pullies are you using on the scavenge pump and the crank? If you need a smaller crank pully i have 1 on my 02 its about 4.5 inches in diameter. Lmk
Walt
I think we are about to see a new level of drama with this build!
haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by sgt.gator
I finished your rack extender and will ship it out shortly. :D
I was thinking the total opposite. The scavenge pump was draining the sump dry and all the blowby air was causing the extra heat.....sorry if Im totally off.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Come and buy it. I will deliver in CA. Save yourself the time, have the best stuff, turn key. Replace the short block For cheap. There is no way you can build this car to this level for $25k.
Can agree. Mine isn't even close at $24K. This car is truly a steal. GLWS, Chad.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Hey Chad, I got to sit in the new NASA car the other day at the SEMA show. Very nice but forward low visibility was nor great.
NASA car as in FFR Roadster Challenge car? Is that what you are thinking about moving over to?
I sat in it also. It's all about the seat pour. I didn't see an issue. A lot of race car for the money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Presley
I'll bet they are talking about the NASA NP01.
http://nasaprototype.com/the-elan-np01/
Sorry Hindsight, Just saw this. 129ST is right, We are talking about the Elan NP01.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
http://i.imgur.com/vZjxIX0l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Zfhchjnl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OW0NYNHl.jpg
Ok yeah, I remember you mentioning one of these some time ago. Looks like they are made about 45 minutes from where I live. Looks like they will also go together much faster than the 818, but it's obviously a very different beast.
I can't believe no one has bought your 818 for the price you are asking.
I put it up for sale locally. There is someone coming to see it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
Hopefully they buy it...and save me from doing something really irresponsible.
Well, its still here..... Time to be irresponsible. :) It was just a Tire Kicker over his head.Quote:
Originally Posted by Santiago
I'm changing out the 11cm oil pump today with a 10cm. Should be fun.
I have sold a few race cars, always at the track. Had to take the engine out of one at the track and take home an empty trailer. When it comes to race cars you have to be ready when someone is willing. All of the race cars I have seen on CL are asking pennies on the dollar. Get it to the track and kick somebody's *** with it, price goes way up.
If he does that without any problems, I don't think he would sell it. What do you say Chad?.Quote:
Originally Posted by D Clary
I just sold my Spyder. So that is my deposit on the Elan NP01. I'll still mess with the 818R, but it will be sold at some point. I just got done installing the new 10cm oil pump. I'm just waiting on the underdrive pulley, and I can test it again. Price will be going up if this fixes it. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
10cm oil pump is in. I just need to route the timing belt and button it back up. I received the underdrive pulley also. I'll test it out in the near future.
Chad,Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Were you able to change the oil pump without pulling the engine?
Bob
Yeah- it wasn't that bad at all. It's easier to do it on jackstands than with my scissor lift. The only thing that might be a little difficult solo is getting the timing belt and timing right. I'll have one of my buddies come over and help from the top of the motor, while I'm under the car to make sure everything lines up right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
I didn't have to remove the seat or firewall. The rear drivers side seat bolt is a PITA to get to.
Used the starter bump method to get the crank pulley off- Easy peasy. I have the crank tool to get it back on easily.
Congrats on the NP01. The aero on the car looks awesome. I look forward to seeing some YouTube videos of you driving the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Do you plan to assemble the car yourself?
Thanks. As of right now I plan on building it myself. However, Elan offered to build it for $8500. If i'm going crazy on the wait, I may just have them build it. I mean, this is a real race car designer/building company, $8500 for a pro team to build it and it being turn key has its advantages. But on the other hand it is $8500.... But I LOVE building. Building something like the NP01 in my garage will be a dream....Quote:
Originally Posted by 129st
Both cars were at Buttonwillow raceway last weekend.
http://i.imgur.com/5DUCyG8l.jpg
Hopefully if it worked for Gator it will work for you with your 3 coolers. did you block off the coolant bypass as well? spintric back on?
I have not decided on what to do with the heater bypass. I have a secondary coolant gauge sender located in that loop. The Spintric is on. Hopefully, I can remove the rear cooler. I may try venting my Dry sump the original way I had it first.Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
As I've been working on the design and routing of our dry sump system, I've been giving a lot of thought to the vent setup that you were running and the one that Sgt Gator runs now. I don't think that either of them are strictly necessary in a dry sump setup (even a hybrid scavenge pump/stock oil pump setup like both of you are running), but I'd love to have that conversation.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
It seems to me that having an opening in the vent system going from either the oil tank (or the oil tank catch tank) and back to the crankcase -- your original vent setup, right? -- only reduces the efficiency of the scavenge side by providing a huge air draw into the engine. That seems counter-intuitive. I can see looping the head vents to the PCV location just to seal all of them up in the same drainage/scavenge loop with the rest of the oil scavenge system (like Sgt Gator is doing -- and I think that's your current setup?), but I can't see the benefit of providing additional air draw into the engine. Wouldn't that just draw air into the system to have the Spintric remove it again?
Just curious. Does this look like a timing belt with ~5 to 6 hours on it?
You can't see any timing marks or lettering. It has a little groove on the outside......
http://i.imgur.com/7Q3OxtKl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xoY6dWKl.jpg
Was that rubbing on the timing belt guide or do you have a pulley that's beating it up?
That's pretty gnarly.
My free advice- STAY AWAY FROM AJW. Idler Belt tensioners are shot also. They installed badly used parts.... Yet charged me for new.
https://youtu.be/vteR6bApe78
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vteR6bApe78
I feel for you.
AJW used to be 30min from where I live. Back when I had my WRX i bought a full set of brembo's off them that were in "perfect working condition". They were used, so I expected some paint chips. All of them were frozen or had stripped bleeders. Never got my $ back and I was lucky to resell them. I let the buyer know they were junk and could be salvaged but I didn't want to deal with it.
One of my first post on this forum was to avoid AJW. They sent me a PM trying to figure out my issue, I told them, I never heard back.
I could recommend a bunch of other shops but knowing you situation it seems like that wont help. And I hate to say it, but I wouldn't be surprised to learn that you have a used motor with used parts in it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 508wrx
I know the short block was new. It was the only really clean part and the serial numbers matched with a 2013 sti. I wish Factory Five screened sponsors before allowing them to sell stuff. This was before I knew anything Subaru. I figured if Factory Five allowed them to sell stuff, they must be legit. Boy was I wrong. I have seen AJW go downhill here on the forum.
This is the only time I wished I lived on the East Coast. I would pay them a visit.
Unbelievable! How could they put old timing components on a new forged build block???!!
After seeing this I'd bet the "new forged internals" are old oem Subaru stock. And even if they did put forged pistons/rods in, how can you trust they got the bearing tolerances correct. Of course you can't! No wonder you are having so many problems with this engine.
I suggest that while you are at it you send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs if you have some laps since your last oil change. The analysis could be very interesting.
I will do that. It's supposed to have the stock forged rods but with forged Pistons. They knew this was going in a racecar. The heads were used of course but cleaned up. It does make me wonder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator
Sounds like you may have found your smoking gun. Best of luck in solving this problem.
Ummmm, yea. I don't like to speak ill -even on the internet, but having owned Subaru's for a bunch of years and been playing near that line where the engine gets questionable I've assembled a list of vendors I'd trust with something major and reciprocating... I don't mean to say I've been exhaustive in my reading, but AJW never showed up on my radar.
Chad, it really sucks that you've had so much grief from what I think everyone now realizes is a questionable engine considering how much you pushed the envelope to get your R built and tracked. It doubly sucks that the forum has kinda let you down re. giving you guidance to a quality/reputable engine builder.
It's not my car or my money, and I'm sure you need another opinion like you need another... (gotta keep it clean) appendix, but if it was me; knowing what your intention for the car is; I'd pull the engine and send it off to be stripped and rebuilt to a shop that is known for quality work.
Best of Luck!
I'm not surprised. I have an AJW pallet and as soon as I got it I sent an oil sample to Blackstone. It came back as a good used engine with no surprises. Blackstone analysis is only $25 and will show what's happening in your engine.
Chad, the groove in the timing belt is almost surely from a mis-djusted or damaged belt guide. Make sure all of them are in the right place and secured correctly. And the timing guide that goes above the crank sprocket is especially important. There are several aftermarket guides (Cosworth, Tomei and more..). I was thinking of using the Company 23 guide on my Spec B rebuild. http://www.company23.com/520