Papa's Retirement Type 65 Coupe Build - Index in first post

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

It feels good to get the panels started, no? It looks like you're planning to rivet the "removable" HVAC access panel? I drilled mine like you did, but having second thoughts that I should have installed nut serts.

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I'm enjoying fitting the panels, but I guess I should pay a bit more attention to detail so I don't miss something like the A/C access panel. I'll likely just rivet it now that it's drilled. I've had mixed results using nut serts to join aluminum panels. As a matter of fact, I broke my #10-24 nut sert mandrel today while installing nut serts for the driver's foot box top panel. I need to look at the A/C instructions before pulling the panels to send to PC, as there are additional holes to drill.

Today I worked on fitting the driver's foot box aluminum. These took a bit of work to get where they needed to be, but eventually came together nicely.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1756420044

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1756420044

I'm going to make the top removable, so I started installing nut serts. As I was installing #6, the mandrel snapped. I'm sure I was applying too much force. Thankfully, the replacements are cheap and I'll have two new ones delivered tomorrow from Amazon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1756420044

The biggest issue is that I'll now have a nut sert rattling around inside the frame. I don't think there is any way to fish it out. If I can get it to where I can see it through the hole, I'll squirt a dab of silicone on it to try to hold it in place.

Today I focused on test fitting the A/C and heater unit to get the position of the holes located on the front of the foot box where the bulkheads go for the A/C and heater hoses. First step was to position the evaporator unit in the car and ensure that the A/C, heater, and drain lines would clear the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1756773773

Next, I drilled and tapped #10-24 holes directly into the frame to mount the evaporator rather using the self-tapping screws provided.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1756773773

I found that to get clearance for the drain fitting, I needed to hang the evaporator a little below the frame, and used a stack of stainless steel washers on the front mount to take of the space.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1756773773

Now on to a more complex step; locating the bulkhead fitting. To do this, I screwed in the #10 fitting on the evaporator and cut a piece of hose long enough the allow me to locate the spot on the footbox that the fitting aligned with. After marking the location, I drilled a small hole in the location (center of the #10 fitting) and then located the template on the outside of the footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1756773773

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1756773773

I had to order a 7/8" hole saw, but will drill the holes once that arrives.

Looks good Dave. Be aware, the spacing the bracket dictates for the two hoses is wider (taller) than that of the block the male ends thread into. It makes for an awkward fit at best but it will fit. I essentially lined mine up just like you did and made sure the big, less flexible #10 hose was as straight a shot as I could make it.

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Originally Posted by Papa

I'm enjoying fitting the panels, but I guess I should pay a bit more attention to detail so I don't miss something like the A/C access panel. I'll likely just rivet it now that it's drilled. I've had mixed results using nut serts to join aluminum panels. As a matter of fact, I broke my #10-24 nut sert mandrel today while installing nut serts for the driver's foot box top panel. I need to look at the A/C instructions before pulling the panels to send to PC, as there are additional holes to drill.

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Dave, these are also good for attaching sheet metal pieces together if you have an arbor press. The hole size needs to be as specified for them to work.
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/95185A350

I picked up a set of cheap Mustang wheels and tires for rollers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1757030481

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1757030481

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1757030481

They are pretty rough condition, but will do the trick. The backspacing on the rears was way too big and I ended up having to put some cheap 1.5" spacers on to allow the wheels to clear the shocks.

I also received my Breeze and Snakebite Motorworks orders and everything looks fantastic. More to come on this.

Although I think the shop dog is a girl, she looked like she wanted to lift a leg and break in those tires.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

Although I think the shop dog is a girl, she looked like she wanted to lift a leg and break in those tires.

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That's my little Lady. She would never lift a leg, but she might squat and leave her mark.

Looks like she might be investigating a new napping spot.

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Originally Posted by burchfieldb

Looks like she might be investigating a new napping spot.

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That's a lot more likely!

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Originally Posted by Papa

I picked up a set of cheap Mustang wheels and tires for rollers.

They are pretty rough condition, but will do the trick. The backspacing on the rears was way too big and I ended up having to put some cheap 1.5" spacers on to allow the wheels to clear the shocks.

I also received my Breeze and Snakebite Motorworks orders and everything looks fantastic. More to come on this.

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Congrats on hitting the roller stage! Will you be moving her over to the lift for some back-saving goodness?

Looks good Dave … just out of curiosity what lugs are you using for roller purposes ?

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

Congrats on hitting the roller stage! Will you be moving her over to the lift for some back-saving goodness?

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Chris,

She's not quite a roller yet. I still need so install the steering shaft and brake lines. I'd been on the lookout for a set of wheels/tires I could use for rollers, and found this set for $300. The rear tires are burned down to slicks, but they hold air and I won't be driving on any public roads with them.

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Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark

Looks good Dave … just out of curiosity what lugs are you using for roller purposes ?

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Mark,

I picked up a set of open lug nuts (1/2-20) for under $20 on Amazon.

https://a.co/d/hrUZms1

After seeing the quality of Brent's products (Snakebite Motorworks) with the drop trunk kit, I placed another order for several more items, including a glove box kit, horn mounting brackets, triple reservoir mounting bracket and polished bezel, and several aluminum panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1757185829

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1757185829

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1757185829

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1757185829

I'll be placing another order in the future for some additional items Brent is working on.

Today, I was excited to assemble the glove box kit. It went together perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1757186436

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1757186436

Now for the fun part; cutting the big hole in the dash! For this, Brent provides a scale template, but first, I located the assembled box on the back side of the dash and marked some of the mounting holes to help locate the template.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1757186436

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1757186436

Once the dash was properly marked, I used a 2" hole saw on my drill press to cut the radiused parts of the opening and simply finished by marking and cutting the lines tangent to the holes on all four sides. From there, it was just test fitting the box and getting the gap needed to accommodate the material that I'll be using to wrap the dash later on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1757186451

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1757186436

And what it looks like mounted in the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1757186451

I plan to use the same trunk liner material I used to do the trunk in my MK4 to line the glove box.

Looks great! I was hoping to use the same thing but my dash layout doesn't accommodate it. Brent makes quality stuff for sure.

Thank you sir .. that’s just what I needed to know !

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

Looks great! I was hoping to use the same thing but my dash layout doesn't accommodate it. Brent makes quality stuff for sure.

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Thanks, Tim. I have a 2" sanding drum ordered to clean up the corners, but not too bad for a start using a round file.

Papa Dave,

How do you feel doing this build compared to your first?

Steve

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Originally Posted by GoDadGo

Papa Dave,

How do you feel doing this build compared to your first?

Steve

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Steve,

I feel more relaxed on my second build. The Coupe has a lot in common with the MK4, but still enough diffences to keep me challenged. I also don't feel like I have to get it done as fast as I can, and in fact, don't want to get it done quickly.

Dave

Today I spent some more time cleaning up the opening in the dash for the glove box. I got a 2" sanding drum that I could put on a drill and got the opening looking much better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1757549263

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1757549263

I also tested the 3-D wrap material thickness in the opening to be sure nothing rubbed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1757549263

Finally, I wanted to see if the trunk liner material I used on the MK4 trunk would look okay in the glove box. I'm not convinced yet and may want to look at something else.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1757549263

Next up was the triple reservoir bracket and bezel from Snakebite Motorworks. First step was to assemble the bracket. This requires tapping 5/16-18 threads into the FFR brackets and then mounting them to the Snakebite Motorworks bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1757549923

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1757549923

Next step is to mount the bracket to the frame rail. This requires pulling some pretty stout 3/16" stainless steel rivets. I had to increase the air pressure to 90 psi on my pneumatic riveter to pull them. I tried by hand first, but that wasn't going to happen. :o

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1757549923

Once in position, I marked and drilled the engine bay frame rail panel, also from Snakebite Motorworks. This required some patience and accuracy, but it worked out perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1757549923

And finally, drilling the bezel bolt holes and attaching the bezel to the panel. You have to do this with the panel removed, so if you plan to use these parts, keep that in mind.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1757549937

I really like how Brent's setup makes this look finished.

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Originally Posted by Papa

Today I spent some more time cleaning up the opening in the dash for the glove box. I got a 2" sanding drum that I could put on a drill and got the opening looking much better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1757549263

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1757549263

I also tested the 3-D wrap material thickness in the opening to be sure nothing rubbed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1757549263

Finally, I wanted to see if the trunk liner material I used on the MK4 trunk would look okay in the glove box. I'm not convinced yet and may want to look at something else.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1757549263

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Dave, you could potentially flock the inside of it. I have not tried it but I am thinking about testing it on the door pockets. I used this underfelt for my door pockets and it worked well.
https://a.co/d/dK4Ybnj

I glued it with the Landua Top and Trim
https://a.co/d/6mwrCnA

Attachment 218676

Your build is looking really good! If you decide to do the felt, I can walk through how I did the door pocket.

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Originally Posted by burchfieldb

Dave, you could potentially flock the inside of it. I have not tried it but I am thinking about testing it on the door pockets. I used this underfelt for my door pockets and it worked well.
https://a.co/d/dK4Ybnj

I glued it with the Landua Top and Trim
https://a.co/d/6mwrCnA

Attachment 218676

Your build is looking really good! If you decide to do the felt, I can walk through how I did the door pocket.

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Thanks, Brent. I'll take a look at the links. I've looked at the flocking kits and a couple of videos. My only concern is durability.

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Originally Posted by Papa

Thanks, Brent. I'll take a look at the links. I've looked at the flocking kits and a couple of videos. My only concern is durability.

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Mine as well. It is not something that I have tried. The underfelt worked really well on the door pockets and was not too thick.

Neoprene material is a good option for the glovebox.

Making some progress on getting all the holes drilled in the engine bay aluminum. I bought a 7/8" hole saw bit for my drill that did a great job with the heater and A/C holes for the bulkhead fittings that FFR provides. The bit has a spring that pops out the plug when you drill the panel so that you don't have to dig it out of the bit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1757722121

The bulkhead fittings in place:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1757722121

More fitting and drilling:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1757722121

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1757722121

I still have a bit more to figure out in the engine bay before I mark the panels ready for powder coating.

Next up ... figuring out how I want to run the brake reservoir hoses between the master cylinders and the reservoirs. I initially thought I'd run all three hoses through the clutch cable opening, but that puts them in an awkward position at the reservoirs and leaves me with trying to seal up the gaps created on that opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1757722141

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1757722141

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1757722141

I think a cleaner approach will be to plug that hole and use three 90-degree bulkhead fittings that allow me to keep gentle curves/bends in the hoses inside the footbox as well as outside.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1757722141

Sorry Dave …I’m just making sure I know how to attach pics to posts … anyway if this works here’s a pic of the race car I sold to build my coupe!Attachment 218811Attachment 218812

Dang Mark.
That's Nice!

Thank you sir … she was fast as well

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Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark

Sorry Dave …I’m just making sure I know how to attach pics to posts … anyway if this works here’s a pic of the race car I sold to build my coupe!Attachment 218811Attachment 218812

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Beautiful!

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Originally Posted by Lugnut Mark

Thank you sir … she was fast as well

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I bet.
How fast?

Sorry Papa... don't mean to hijack

Today, I spent some time pondering the routing of my reservoir to MC hoses. I looked at using some 90 degree bulkhead fittings inboard of the clutch cable hole at the top of the footboard, but now I'm second guessing that. I ran the hoses back through the clutch cable hole and can easily connect to the reservoirs. I did some digging and found a few ways to use that location and still seal off any heat getting into the footbox. I'm making a patch panel that will fit three bulkhead fittings in the 1-1/2" opening. I think I have something that will work mocked up. Once I get it cleaned up, I'll post some pictures.

I have sidestepped doing this for quite a while as I was waiting on a bracket from Snakebite. While waiting, I purchased 90 degree AN fittings for the reservoirs, -3 hose with fittings to make custom hoses, straight bulkhead fittings for the passthrough and the Wilwood AN hats for the MCs.

I still am not sure I will go this route and I know Paul made a sort of "clover leaf" cover for that clutch hole for his Coupe build that probably sealed it up pretty well. I will be interested to see what you come up with since I am finally ready to install as well.

Hi Dave. FWIW I also routed my hoses through the clutch hole. I made this little panel with holes to route the hoses from the reservoirs. I traced the contour around the chassis, which allowed me to close up the gaps as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1758033579


Here's what it looks like in place. Not the best angle, but you can get the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1749243208

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

Hi Dave. FWIW I also routed my hoses through the clutch hole. I made this little panel with holes to route the hoses from the reservoirs. I traced the contour around the chassis, which allowed me to close up the gaps as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1758033579


Here's what it looks like in place. Not the best angle, but you can get the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1749243208

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Chris,

I'm doing something similar, but using bulkhead connectors. I'd be concerned about the hoses being in direct contact with the panel since vibration could cause the panel to wear a cut into them over time.

I spent a bit of time waiting for parts to arrive to try my idea of fitting three bulkhead barbed passthrough fittings into the space of the clutch opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1758646395

The good news is that they fit, but the bad news is that with my reservoirs mounted, there isn't any space to get one of the hoses and a clamp into the barb.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1758646395

So, back to the Internet to see if I could find some 90-degree barbed bulkhead fittings. The ones I got through Amazon that were listed as 1/4" barbs are more like 3/16" and don't fit the hose well. In my searching for different parts, I came across a different solution that I am going to try. I found some brass bulkhead fittings with 1/8" NPT threads that will allow me to attach barbed fittings with 1/8" NPT threads on one end and 1/4" barb on the other.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1758646395

I'll follow-up once these arrive and if I decide to use them or not.