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One item that I did not see mention, kind of hard to tell from the pictures but the flex line looks like it goes pretty low, that could be a problem and should be more protected by the a-arm. May be able to afix to the lower a-arm with Zip ties or locate the upper point higher on the frame. only having done the Mk4, not sure how your F-panel lines up there.
Has anyone used the Eastwood Professional brake line flaring tool for 37 degree flares with the accessory die package? Other options for 37 degree flares?
I only needed to shorten 2 brake lines on my build, so took them to my local brake specialist. Ten minutes and $20 bucks and it was done. Added bonus, they congratulated me on quality of bends I had made. Put a spring in my step!
Congratulations! Good luck with your build as well. It truly is my dream garage. The experts on the forum have been amazing. FFR tech/sales support have been great as well. A big shout out to Nick. I wonder if they follow these build threads.Quote:
Originally Posted by JsMoose
After re-routing the brake lines I mounted the reservoirs for the brakes and clutch. I chose the location looking at a picture of the car from the build school and a picture from the manual. Hopefully there is room. I wanted a spot that would give accessibility and show off the chrome canisters.
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So here is what I ended up with. Fingers crossed...
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They are still loose. I’ll make sure to check.Quote:
Originally Posted by F500guy
My next build!
Lego Icons Shelby Cobra 427 S/C
I could have saved $20.00 if I had known about this a few months ago. I would have never purchased a replica!Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
I saw this battery in pictures in the manual. Size seems perfect. I’m ordering it.
Attachment 215059
xsp-s925
Battery, 12 V, AGM, 641 Cranking Amps at 32 Degrees F, Top Post, 6.65 in. Length, 7.04 in. Width, 4.98 in. Height
Today was spent doing panels and more panels. I may need more clecos…
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Yes, worked perfectly on Nicopp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ejzajac
Pat
All day I drill holes in metal. At first it's boring and then it's riveting. I figured a good dad joke was in order for Father's day.
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Love it!Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Today I decided to try my hand at fabrication. I think it went pretty well. I fabricated the panels to extend the foot box. I think it came out pretty good for my first time. I bought the metal brake from Harbor Freight. It worked really well.
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I tried to reuse the existing panel so I created it from 6 pieces. I will end up using silicone and rivets to put it all together.
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I still need to do the other side to match the last picture. It was fun to do something other than attach panels, while I am waiting for parts!
Rick, I like where you mounted the brake fluid reservoirs. Did you drill all the way through the brace, rivnut, or tap one side, to mount? I like the spot better than on the outer brace as that location is covered by the body when mounted.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
With the clearance, do you think the whole footbox top can be made removable for later access? It looks more doable than on the Mk4.
Your footbox extension looks interesting.
Ralph
I used rivnuts. I agree on access. Hopefully they don’t interfere with anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by rponfick
Not sure with the body on but possibly. I think that’s a good idea. I think getting to the side may be difficult.Quote:
Originally Posted by rponfick
Today I reran the brake lines with Nicopp tubing and tool from Summit. The tool was simple to use, and as far as I can tell made proper flanges. Thanks Greg! Tomorrow I’ll begin the rear suspension install as I received a shipment of back ordered items.
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I spoke with BP and my engine went into production today. Delivery is scheduled for the end of July.
Awesome! I'm glad the flare tool was easy for you. I found it to be super simple, and it made perfect flares the first time, every time.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Greg
I am struggling with the diff for the IRS. It was a PITA to get into place but I managed. I was able to loosely thread 3 of the 4 bolts. The last one is off by quite a bit. I took the bushing and sleeve off to see how much it’s off. Here is a picture. Anyone else run into this issue?
Thanks for any advice on how to proceed.
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I recall fighting that a bit, too. I ended up loosening all the other bolts as far as I could to give me a little play, and used a socket extension in the bore of the 4th bolt hole to square it up. Keep at it; it'll go.
Greg
I've done several. Rather than repeat here's where I described and pictured: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post209902. The sequence isn't exactly described. My process: Get the two rear bolts started since they're threaded. But don't tighten. Then with the bolts removed, center the two front locations with the pins. Then one at a time, pull the pin and insert the bolt. Then torque everything to spec. This has worked for me every time. Makes it easy actually.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
+1 on edwardb's method. I did mine alone using his approach (without the tapered pins) and had it installed in 20 minutes. I focused on getting the front ones in the bushings first, then the threaded ones. There was some misalignment but by beginning with all four corners partially started, everything pulled into place perfectly. I did end up with a gap at the bushings but spoke with FFR techs to see if I needed to disassemble and add washers. The answer was "no, it's not going anywhere".
I wonder if it’s worth grinding the face of the connection points a little, or at least lubing the bushings to make it easier to get in. Thoughts?
You don't need to grind. If you use Paul's method it will work. It's an exercise in patience. The bushings have just enough "give" if they are all loose to allow the bolts to be popped through. It's not a delicate procedure but it get's the job done.
So I restarted the install of the differential and was able to complete. I took some engineering with straps to get it into place. Since the first try was a fail I decided to add a little bit of silicone grease to the bearings to help with adjusting and it helped a lot. I started by using straps to lift it and get it into position.
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With a lot of adjusting I was able to insert the first forward bolt. I then proceeded to try and place the second forward bolt with no luck. So I tried to get the same side rear bolt in. I used a 5/16 alignment punch on the opposite rear bolt hole and it helped align the bolt. I was able to thread it a few turns. The second rear bolt went in easily as it was aligned with the punch. The last bolt fought me for a long time. I used the punch to see where it was catching and adjusted accordingly.
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Eventually I got it close and had to use a hammer to get it to go. The first time the sleeve went with it. I tried again but the second time I used a socket to hold the sleeve in place and was able to get it in!
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When I torqued the bolts the sleeves did not go all the way back in. I will re-torque over the next few weeks???
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Glad you finally got it. I’m close to this point, now I’m dreading it. Guess I’ll see what happens.
I bought this to align the holes. But I was too impatient to wait for it.
https://a.co/d/aeaaXfx
It arrives today. I’ll let you know if it’s the right size to help.
That’s my problem, I’m to impatient and it usually bites me in the a$$!Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
I’m trying to attach the pedal box top mount and can’t figure out what bolts to use. I tried all the sizes I have and none seem to work. Does anyone know the bolt size? Seems like a 1/4 or M6, but the thread sizes I have don’t work. Thanks!
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Today was productive. First I was able to install the battery. I used the FFR tray and a bracket from Summit made specifically for the XS battery. I chose to use rivet nuts since I needed to secure the tray and the battery bracket bolts ran into the frame. What I did notice is that changing the battery is not going to be easy. Hopefully it does not require removing the parts of the engine to remove it.
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With that complete I proceeded to start assembly of the rear suspension. I received the parts yesterday. The fact that I assembled somethings out of order caused issues. They were not insurmountable, but it caused delays. First I suggest cleaning put the bolt holes prior to installing panels, gas tank, and rear diff. There was no way to get a drill into the holes. I ended up doing it by hand with a small round file.
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Once I completed that I realized the diff was blocking the bolts for the lower control arm. There was no way I was messing with the diff :) so the other options were to grind the tab or remove the gas tank. I chose to remove the gas tank.
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Update on the alignment punch from Amazon. It says its 5/8", but that is the dimension on the hexagon sides. The actual edges are wider. So I ended up grinding it so it would align the 5/8" holes on the control arms. Again I couldn't use it to align all the holes because there was no room because of the cockpit panels. When I could use it, it really helped.
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One last tip. I ran into the issue where the sleeves were wider than the mounts. On the left side I first tried to bend the mount so the sleeve would fit. This caused to bolt to go out of alignment and I could not get it to go through. I ended up hammering the mount back and grinding some material on the sleeve so it went in without friction. This worked and the bolt went through. I did that on the right side from the start and it went smoothly.
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I should have a roller pretty soon!
If I bought the new in tank EFI system from FFR, with the large feed and return do I still need to drill the lines of the pick up? I re-read the instructions for in-tank EFI and it doesn’t mention it.
Today I installed the rear spindles, hubs and axles. When installing the axles it was a bit unnerving to bash it with a hammer, but after checking 30 times that I was installing the right axle on the correct side they went in. It seemed to take more whacks then you would think. The instructions said it should be 3mm so I kept hitting. The axle has some play but the connector did not move.
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Cutting and drilling the spindles was not pleasant. When I drilled the hole it was off center. I was worried that it would not line up correctly when I went to install it, but the connection point has lots of movement, so no issues.
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I ran into the usual issues with fitment. Had to grind some of the sleeves and the toe arms were both too narrow, but I was able to widen them with a spare nut and bolt. It did the trick.
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Last step was to install the shocks. The instructions were not clear, but I recalled from the build school that the 400lb went in the back and the 500lb go up front.
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Tomorrow I'm on to the rear brakes.
Now that you have looked at it more closely; do you think the XS battery could be removed without a fair amount of disassembly, especially with the brake booster system?
Perhaps someone further along with a MK5 have insight. Would it be an easier task without a brake booster?
I can tell once I have the engine in. It won’t be here until August.
The manual says 1/4" so I assumed 1/4"x20. I just re-tapped the holes and hoped for the best. it worked.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Today I finished the rear brakes, shocks, anti-rollbars and finished torquing all the bolts.
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Everything went smoothly other than building the caliper mount for the right side. There is no picture and you need to figure out the mirror image. My first attempt did not go so well... :)
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The good news is that I have a roller!
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Quick question. Can I bleed the brakes with the booster connected but no engine to supply vacuum?
Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Free unsolicited advice from reading your posts. Take it easy with the hammering. Hammering the CV axles -- not needed. Just a slight bump with a dead blow hammer (at most) will set them. There's a clip on the end of the axle. As soon as the clip hits the groove, the circlip springs back (expands) and it doesn't take a lot of force to get it there. I would say the same thing about hammering in bolts. Tight maybe. But if you're removing metal, stop and figure it out first. My rule -- I mentioned it in a post with build suggestions a few days ago -- if something doesn't fit or takes excessive force, stop. More often than not, at least in my case, I'm doing something wrong, need to adjust something, need to ask, whatever. Figure it out first.
I can attest I had one half-shaft that went in as suggested, seemed too easy. But, I had 1 side that took several good whacks to get that last click, I actually walked a way for 15 minutes, got the measurement device out and said "that's not right" and so I understand what you said.
Thanks! Will do. Today I torqued the bolts on the IRS axles and they did not come out, so I assume they are installed correctly.
After a preliminary alignment adjustment on all four corners. I finished installing the rear brake lines coming from the booster. There really is no other route to take but through the transmission tunnel.
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During build school they mentioned that it was a good idea to install a safety loop for the driveshaft. I'm going to do that. They also mentioned protecting the brake lines with steel. I have some square tubing from another project. Is it worth reinforcing the line near the drive shaft? Fuel lines later?
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