Mcamera
This is how Eric Hansen fixed his floor oil canning.
Bob
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZ8J...ature=emb_logo
Here is a link to his build page
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post171885
Printable View
Mcamera
This is how Eric Hansen fixed his floor oil canning.
Bob
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZ8J...ature=emb_logo
Here is a link to his build page
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post171885
I did that torch thing with some good some bad results. I've read it works better with a hotter flame - acetylene - but need practice first? Eventually I ran some wire feed beads that worked on my first try...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...18-build/page2
post #43
I saw that torch trick when I was researching and it is clever. I wasn't sure if that could take out the larger warps in the floor though. Looks like Art has seen some areas that it didn't fully solve the problem. I also didn't want to burn through my powder coat. For me gluing and riveting a panel in was the easiest. The floor is a lot better but still pops if I put all my weight on it (which will never happen in the finished car). If I did it again, I would buy a larger sheet of aluminum and cover the entire footwell. Not only to make it a little stronger, but to remove the lip created by my heel plate. I surrounded the plate with deadening mat, then covered all of that with deadening mat, then will cover that with insulation, and finally carpet. I can still see the plate lines through the insulation so far, but I'm hoping with carpet it's not noticeable. Minor but annoying.
Attachment 141835
So, now that I have my bottom aluminum I'm getting ready to install it this weekend. I had no oil canning on the driver's side, so was feeling lucky. As a result of this post, I really checked carefully both sides. Not so lucky on the passenger side. Absolutely terrible. I have an acetylene torch, so will try "torching" and cooling it, and post the results in my build thread. Depending on the results, I may additionally, or alternatively, still cover and bond some .125 aluminum to the interior. A small weight penalty, but the oil canning would bother me every time someone gets in the car.
Thanks for raising my attention to it before I was further into the build! Stay tuned for my results....
First and foremost I'd like to thank mikeb75 for noticing in an earlier pic that I used the coolant hoses as fuel lines. I had a couple boxes open at the same time and grabbed the wrong hoses. The coolant hoses are not compatible with fuel and I'm sure I could have found out a much more difficult way. The hoses have been swapped out with the correct fuel lines. Thank you Mike!
I spent 1 minute trying to mount the cinderblock of a Subaru charcoal canister before I realized I wasn't going to use it. I was inspired by some guys on the Roadster forums to make my own canister from a PVC coupler filled with activated carbon. It should eliminate any gas fumes in the garage. For now I'm leaving it open to atmosphere but I'm going to look at adding the purge solenoid in the future to make it a closed system again.
Attachment 142233
On to the kraken. Wiring is not my strong suit so I'm learning a lot already. I was unhappy with how constricted and stiff the OEM harness was so I unwrapped all of it which gave some sections extra length. It's a messy job removing all the tape, sheathing, rubber, and plastic sleeves. My fingers are still sore from peeling. However, everything is laying out better and takes up less room without the bulky coverings. After some planning, I cut my alternator wires so I could move a large section of the harness and a couple fuse boxes up to the passenger footwell where I have more room to mount them. The manual says to mount the fuse boxes above the gas tank but when FFR redesigned the rear firewall a few years ago, they eliminated that space. Unless you mount them on the interior of the car directly behind the passenger seat. I only have to extend 4 alternator wires for this move which seems worth it.
Attachment 142234 Attachment 142235 Attachment 142236
My ecu wires didn't reach the manual's suggested location behind the passenger seat on the engine bay side well, so I mounted it to the middle of my rear-rear firewall on the cabin side. This also allowed more slack for some wires near the pedals, keeps the ecu out of the hot engine bay, and is still in a serviceable location. I didn't want to use a bolt/nut to mount it because that would be hard to remove in the future (the nut could spin when you try to remove the bolt), so I used a rivnut. I also didn't want the ugly end of a rivnut sticking out of the wall in the engine bay so I actually added the rivnuts to the ecu mount. All you'll see is the button head of a bolt in the engine bay.
Attachment 142238 Attachment 142239
My driver side firewall doesn't clear my Boyd fuel tank. It hits the top of the inlet housing before it sits all the way down. So I'm raising my entire rear firewall up using 3/4" square tubing to clear it. The 1/8" aluminum firewall is too hard to bend and this keeps my horizontal shelves for storage behind the seats. Downside is I'll have to cut ~1/2" off the top of the firewall
Attachment 142240 Attachment 142250 Attachment 142252 Attachment 142243
I'm still working on wiring but my rear wheels were delivered so I had to try them on. They're a decent 45mm offset so I'll probably need spacers to gain more clearance to the front lateral link and push the wheels out to be flush with the body. We'll see when I get to that point. The fronts are expected today unless this snow storm effects shipping.
Wheels - Enkei Tuning TS-10 (Storm Grey)
Tires - Firestone Firehawk Indy 500
Front 17x8
45mm offset
205/40R-17
Rear 18x8.5
45mm offset
255/35R-18
Attachment 142766 Attachment 142767 Attachment 142768
Well I'm frustrated. I've been spending most of my nights for the last 2 weeks staring at the wiring and doing very little work. My harness came with my donor pallet and there are a lot of connectors that were just cut off. So I have no idea what the loose wires went to. On that note, what should I do with all the cut wires I'm not using? Just fold the end over and heat shrink each wire individually as a dead end? I'm guessing I don't want random ends touching each other.
I also can't find the plugs for my fuel pump or level sensor. I'm using the Boyd fuel tank so where do I splice the 2 wires from the fuel pump into the harness? Which wires go to the universal level sender on the Boyd tank?
I need to keep making progress on something to keep my morale up. I want to figure this out so I learn more about wiring but I'm confused.
Thanks, Mike
Best source out there is Mechie3's guide at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...h-Auto-AC-HVAC
I'm having mine done by Wayne at VCP to avoid the frustration you are facing. I think I "could" have done it, but decided was better to spend my time on the physical build. Wayne was working on it this week, so hope to get it back fairly soon. With any luck, the engine will be dropping in next week.
I've been using Mechie3's guide and it's been very helpful. It would be a lot easier if I had removed the harness from the WRX and I wasn't missing connectors. In some areas I have a cut bundle of 10 wires. I don't know how many connectors may have branched off of those 10 wires or which wires are for which system. If I just solve 1 problem per night I'll eventually run out of loose ends. Focusing on the fuel pump/sender wiring right now.
Is it ok to use a different size wire for splicing? I've already extended my brake/clutch pedal wires using the supplied FFR 16gauge wires and the OEM wires are 18gauge. Slightly bigger shouldn't be a problem right?
Bigger is never a problem. Only smaller... ;-)
As someone who dieted my harness I can try to offer a few tips.
1. The Subaru factory wire harness diagram is key - I couldn't imagine trying to diet the harness without it so hopefully you have the one for your model year. If not, PM your email and I can send you one. The diagram will hopefully answer your question about what connects to the Boyd level sender etc.
2. I found Larry's dieting guide most helpful, this is what I followed: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post152338
3. Most of the work is in the prep such as labeling all the connectors. Since some of your connectors have been cut off, this may be tricky but not impossible, it will just take more time. You will also want to remove all of the harness sheathing, trust me this will allow you to identify and remove wires and will save you a lot of trouble in the long run.
It took me about 80 hours to diet my harness so it's a fair bit of work but well worth it in the end. If you break up the work into sub-tasks (Larry's guide) it becomes a lot easier. I began as a Subaru wiring novice but can now troubleshoot just about any wiring issue as a result of this dieting process.
I completely agree with those 3 points. The Subaru wiring diagrams need to become second nature for you. And DEFINITELY, remove the sheathing...all of it. I wish I had done that entirely before I started putting it into the car. The harness has still been my biggest nemesis so far in the build (doors are second and windows are third at this point, but windows are making a strong push for second...). In the end it is such a huge felling of accomplishment though once you have it done.
Does the plan in my picture make sense? I know where my fuel pump relay is so I think I can trace from there. I've never read an electrical schematic before so I apologize if something stupid is in here :p
Attachment 142895 Attachment 142896
Michael,
My son is doing all of our wiring, it’s great to see him figure this out! As others suggested once you figure out the FSM diagrams you can trace anything pretty quickly. If it would help you, I can send you his phone # and you guys can compare notes or questions. He’s actively dieting off the items we don’t need now since the engine is running. Every time he removes a branch he’s confirming engine will still start!
Also / there is a separate sub harness that connects the fuel tank senders and pump to main harness. I know this cause somehow ours did not get saved from donor...and Liam had to buy a new one at the cost of $110!
Thanks
Scott
Looks like you have the NA wiring diagram, there are wiring differences with the turbo version so just want to make sure you have the correct diagram (your signature shows 07 wrx). On the turbo wiring harness, the fuel pump wires run directly from the fuel controller. You'll want to connect the BW wire from the fuel controller to the Boyd Aeromotive pump (-) and the BOr wire to the pump (+). One of the fuel level sender wires runs from the sending unit to the ECU (LgB wire on connector C28), the other wire from the sending unit goes to ground (anywhere on the chassis).
Attachment 142899
Thanks for the offer Scott. I think I need to learn a little more before I can ask relevant questions lol. I'll let you know if I need to talk to him.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Meyer
Thank you for the correction, I do have the wrong diagram. Your fuel pump notes make sense. For the sender, did you mean the BrW B10 connector on the ECU? It looks like the LgB C28 wire goes to the Pressure Control Solenoid.Quote:
Originally Posted by STiPWRD
That's right, it's the BrW wire from the sender to the ECU, good catch. I just wanted to mention that I too had no idea how to read the wiring diagram when I started. But going through those steps in Larry's guide, it was very tedious but things began to make sense. Just take it one step at a time and if you get stuck, we're here to help.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcamera
Agreed with all points above. I kept all my wires segregated with the wraps while labeling so I could identify from the diagrams which connectors were which based on location and nearest-neighbors. Then I stripped off the sheathing. I also did my own diet and have had no problems (so far), but it is a big task. I added probably way more extension wire than I needed because I didn't move the "rear" fuse box to the front until I realized it would be in the way of the firewall. Just keep chipping away at it, take breaks to work on other bits to keep moving, and you will get through it. There is an amazing amount of brainpower and experience here (and on NASIOC in a pinch) when it comes to this. As you can see from all the responses, someone's probably been there and is super willing to help!
The manual says to connect 2 red wires from the fuse box to the starter. I think this is because the battery is directly linked to the same starter stud. So the fuse box will get power from the starter stud. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Attachment 143030
However, I don't see 2 red wires. I have 1 black wire coming out of the main 120A fuse on the fuse box. Should I wire this 1 black wire to the starter stud? Is this the single wire that brings power from the battery to all of the car's fuse systems?
Attachment 143031 Attachment 143032
Michael,
That’s correct. We struggled with that but Liam confirmed the color was black coming from fuse box. F5 supplies a 10 ga wire to connect to the 8 gauge on the OEM fuse box, which we didn’t like, so we did two wires.
Depending on where you are locating your fuse box and battery, consider installing some circuit breakers on each end between the battery and alternator, battery and starter, and battery and fuse box. I'm a little wary of having a hot 12v signal running the length of a mid-engine car.
https://smile.amazon.com/KUMEED-Circ...839907&sr=8-11
Thanks Scott and Liam. Sounds like the 2 red wires FFR talks about in the manual are (2) 10gauge sections you're supposed to splice into the 8gauge OEM wire. Like you've done, you probably need (2) 10gauge wires to handle the amps of a single 8gauge wire. Since my fuse is even higher (120A turbo / 100A NA) I'm going to buy an 8gauge wire to match the Subaru wire just to be safe.
Ajzride, I like the breaker you linked since it can also be used as a kill switch. My battery is in front as FFR intends, and my fuse box is under the passenger dash. Here's how my power lines run:
-Battery in front to starter in back (no fuse, wire not protected)
-Starter in back to fuse box under passenger dash (120A fuse at the fuse box, wire not protected)
-Alternator in back to fuse box under passenger dash (fuse at fuse box, wire not protected)
Couldn't I just put 1 breaker near the battery and it will cut power from battery to starter & therefore starter to fuse box? Then 1 more breaker from alternator to fuse box since that's a separate power source that my battery breaker wouldn't cover? I'm not great with electrical so sorry if something is wrong here. I appreciate the suggestions.
That should work just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcamera
I worry about a breaker between the battery and the starter. With a cold engine (0 deg F) you might see 300 to 400 amps. Just my 2 sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajzride
Bob has a point, I forget about cold weather issues since I don’t encounter them. On my car the starter is actually fed by an old school 1960s style solenoid, so the wire is only hot when cranking and no breaker is required. I have a line from the battery to the fuse panel with circuit breaker. I don’t daisy chain like the manual calls for.
Link to solenoid:
https://smile.amazon.com/Products-So...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Ajzride I think you answered one of my next questions. Instead of running an 8awg wire from the starter to my fuse box under the dash, I ran the wire from the battery directly to the fuse box. It's much shorter this way. There's also 2 less live wires running the length of the car (eliminates battery to starter & starter to dash wires). Sounds like this is a safe alternative to daisy chaining it like the manual says?
Good call Bob. I won't add a breaker to the main battery wire.
Any advice for good grounds? Just sand a bare metal spot and through bolt like the engine ground strap? Can I use a steel rivnut for a blind ground?
Add dielectric grease to the grounds.
I tested a combination of rivnut, threaded hole, and threaded hole with nut, with and without dielectric grease. The dry threaded hole with nut was best, dry threaded hole without nut second, and dry rivnut a distant third. Dielectric grease increased the resistance in each instance, but not enough to outweigh the corrosion resistance it offers. Here are the voltage drops in millivolts at 100 amps. Really, any of them are acceptable.
Dry Greased
Bolt with nut 0.8 1.7
Bolt no nut 1.7 2.5
Rivnut 5.8 7.5
I ended up using a ¼-32 bolt into a threaded hole in the frame tubes, with the paint sanded off under the ground strap or ring terminal. For me, it was easier to drill and tap for a ¼-32 than drill for and install a rivnut.
Like you, I installed the main fuse box up front. I ran the battery plus to one side of a power cutoff switch up front, and connected the fuse box to the other side. I also ran 4 gauge wire from the switch to the starter and another 4 gauge wire from switch to the alternator.
To protect the long battery wire runs, I put a slow blow Megafuse between the battery minus and the frame. The slow blow feature avoids blowing the fuse during the initial current spike before the starter starts to spin. Fusing the negative side is unconventional, but equally effective, and easier to implement.
I understand your concern regarding the alternator as another power source. However, if the battery is fused, a short on the long alternator wire will cause the battery to push current into the short and blow the battery fuse. Then the short will pull the alternator voltage down to 1 or 2 volts, killing the engine. So you will get some current in the alternator wire, but not for long. That’s why I didn’t see a need to fuse my alternator wire.
By the way, I’m new to building cars, so I may have overlooked something important. You may want to wait to hear from the more senior members just in case.
I have all the wiring connected and temporarily mounted. I've capped the ends of my exposed/cut wires with heatshrink so nothing is accidentally touching. Once I get my grounds attached I'll put the steering column back in and I should be able to turn the key to accessory for the first time to start troubleshooting.
Attachment 143231
I unwrapped a front wheel last night and wasn't happy with the tire fitment. The 205/40R-17 tire is not wide enough for a 17x8 wheel. The rim sticks out and doesn't look great. Thankfully TireRack has a 30 day return policy so I called and talked to them. They don't have a wider 215/40R Firehawk tire to match my rear tires, so it looks like I'll be buying 4 new tires, swapping them onto my rims at a local shop, and returning my Firehawks for a refund. Great customer service and why I chose TireRack. A lot of sites don't allow returns on wheels/tires.
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Just as a picture for reference.
I'm running 17x9 rims front and rear.
Toyo R888 235 front, 255 rear.
Bob
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I've seen some creative solutions for the shifter on here, but there's a variation I haven't seen yet. I want the plastic FFR shifter, flipped around for rear exit cables (I bought Mechie3's bell crank), and mounted to the unmodified rails. I want a shorter shifter for looks, but I don't want to spend a lot of money or time on it lol. The problem I'm seeing is the vertical post in the middle keeps me from hanging the shifter in the correct location. I have to move the assembly forward several inches to stay in front of the vertical post (further reach), or stay behind the post (possibly too close and my elbow jams up against my seat).
Factory Five recommended position. Cables going to the front. Possibly punch the moon on a hard shift to 3rd.
Attachment 143360
Shifter hanging under rails, behind the vertical post. Shifter flipped around so cables are going to the rear. Already ordered a straight short shifter since the crooked shaft now points away from me and far forward.
Attachment 143361
With the lowered shifter behind the rails you can see my elbow is already by my side in the neutral position. There may not be enough room to move my arm back with seats. Can anybody suggest whether or not mounting this far back is a bad idea? I'm thinking I do this and if it's a problem when I get seats, I can move to plan B.
Attachment 143359
Plan B is to cut the sides of the plastic shifter and straddle the vertical post. That way the shifter is closer to the FFR recommended location.
Plan C is to cut the rails and hang a steel plate to mount the shifter on.
Just cut the rails and mount the shifter where it is comfortable. Rails are easy to modify.
I mounted my seat first, insuring enough leg room. Then, I placed the steering wheel at the distance I like. After I had established these two parameters, I could sit in the seat, let my hand fall naturally from the steering wheel, and that is where I mounted my shifter in neutral position. It’s very critical, I think. I don’t want a far reach for buttons either. When belted in, everything must be accessible and comfortable.
So I partially have electrical power. My security light blinks until I turn the key to accessory and then it turns off, which is good. And my odometer is lit up. But my fuel gauge hasn't moved down to empty, the dash lights don't work, and no hazards. I don't see any more female plugs to connect anything. I'm thinking some of the wires on my donor harness that came to me cut off, are the missing connections. I'll have to trace a few gauge wires tomorrow.
I noticed today that the shifter location in my BMW is half way up my thigh. So mounting my shifter further back in the 818 shouldn't be bad ergonomically. But I'm going to wait until i have my seats as Lance suggested.
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4 months into building and I've made a Christmas tree. There's power! I had the wrong plugs connected for one of the steering column connections. It should have been obvious since one connector was blue and one was white, but they fit perfectly together. I was able to find the correct plug by tracing the power wire from the fuse box. I'm heading to Utah in a couple hours but the next item is getting the gauge lights working...
Attachment 143418
Great job! Wow, did your donor really have 189k miles?
I hope it's just the cluster, the engine is supposed to have 80k on it. When I bought the donor pallet it was sold as an 06 kit. When I asked where the aluminum LCA's were I was then told it was actually an 07. Pallet didn't include wheels, seats, mirrors, and seat belts like I was expecting. I was told the mirrors and belts were accidentally left out. I've asked for them 3 times since August and still don't have them. Not to mention the hacked up harness. Who knows what my pallet actually consists of?Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Meyer
you have the boyd tank correct? You have to flip the float so it will read correctly. Also, I have a set of 06 WRX front seats that I probably will not be using.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcamera