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Hi Todd,
I am enjoying watching this build come along. I am curious about the Boyd Tank, it looks great tucked up in the frame. Would you have any pics from the back at level of the tank, and from the side, just to see how low is sits in relation to the frame. Would be much appreciated as I was considering a Boyd tank for my build when I get to that point as my plans include the 390 and the extra fuel capacity would be a big bonus.
Great Build!!
Thanks!!
Cheers,
Achi
yep, i'm trying to determine how to match the paint color if i cut the trunk tabs off...Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
your wish is my command!Quote:
Originally Posted by achi
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as you can see I could have put the rear tab 'above' the rear chassis rail and moved the tank up 3/4" overall - and there is room to do that - but I also have about 2" of depth from the top of the trunk bars to the top of the tank - so I can do some drop trunk magic - if nothing else it will keep some smaller things from rolling all around the trunk :)
Mr toadster
I noticed in your latest pic that you have a rag stuffed in the inlet. I did that also the baggie thing but did you
know that a black ABS rubber cap fits perfect. I didn't trust my self that something wouldn't fall in. You don't
need to use the clamp just the cap. Don't mean to pick on your build I enjoy your buildmanship just looking
out for you.
yeah, I hear you - I forgot to keep the cap covers that Boyd shipped with the tank - so I improvise, will probably find a cap like you stated to be a little more sturdyQuote:
Originally Posted by Lancaster Lad
edit: ok - i cheaped out and just used some tape :cool:
Attachment 130095
Hello Todd,
Thank you very much for the pics!!
It fits like a glove in there. Very nice and sturdy unit.
Cheers,
Achi
LH side is 100% covered by the trunk aluminum. Impossible to see once everything is together. You will need to add a small patch piece on the aluminum. RH side would still be visible, but only from the bottom and behind the tank. I'm as anal as anyone, but any color even close will be unnoticeable IMO. I may have posted this before. But https://www.lvppaints.com/ will provide paint that matches your powder coat. Used them on my 20th Anniversary build and it's excellent. They can match if you know the exact powder coat mfg and color. Or they can match to a physical sample.Quote:
Originally Posted by toadster
Sorry to bother you but I just checked my frame to tank clearance.
I have 1 3/4 tight or about 1 1/2 deep area for cubby.
Did you look at the upper trunk area between the diff and the tank?
I don't know who to give credit to but some one took that space for storage.
There is at least 7in deep and over 24in wide. Could also be larger with a
stepped bottom. Don't know where your battery is going, I going up front
with Breeze tray.
The new powder coat color is growing on me.
Thank you for sharing your build with us.
I have a piece of the chassis that I cut to do the brake booster so I'm going to take to a local shop to see if I can color match it...Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
The feedback from Factory Five (Tony Z) is that the color is Anodized Medium Bronze Matte by Powder Buy the Pound
Attachment 130096
I have the breeze battery tray as well, its at the powder coater - just doing black to match the engine bay.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancaster Lad
Yes, there is a lot of 'air space' behind the tank and back wall - my one friend opened that whole section above the rear seats and it's rather spacious.
Another idea is to mount the estopp system in there - like JohnK did https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post415574
What is the capacity of that tank? Nice work by the way.
-Steve
online they say 20 gallons, but others on here have said anywhere from 24-26 - pretty substantial!Quote:
Originally Posted by Straversi
Thanks! :)
Toadster,
I too, am in Folsom, and have also placed an order for A Mk4 Roadster from FFR.
will you send me an email to Rat2274@msn.com and I will share more details.
I would love to talk builds with you.
Rat2274
absolutely anytime! will email...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat2274
it's been a long couple of weeks, lots of 'work' getting in the way of the car- but that's life!
I started pulling together the radiator setup, and it takes a decent amount of prep-work to get things together.
Since I'm using the Breeze radiator shroud, upper hinge and lower mount there is one small adjustment needed - trimming the 3/4" segments that are connected to the upper 3/4" cross-bar
since the bronze color is unique on this frame, I tried to match it closely - not that it will really ever be seen. upon initial spray it looks 'close' but when you overlay it on top - it's still too light...
not something I want to spend $120 minimum on for color matched paint... at least it's protected
Attachment 130549 Attachment 130550 Attachment 130551
the next parts just require a bunch of holes, 14 across the top radiator tab front, and 2 in the rear top tab that align with the support bolts.
Attachment 130552 Attachment 130553
got late last night, so I was able to line things up and clamp into place - still need the lower mount installed and adjust to 58-degrees (will be using the replicaparts radiator panel)
Attachment 130554
Attachment 130569
still a bit puzzled how the top hinge connects to the 3/4" bar - there are 4 bolts with lock washers, but nothing for the bolts to 'grab' like a nut?
Attachment 130555
I already rivnut'ed the shroud, so that will hold the fan in place.
added 4 rivnuts for the top hinge and mounted the fan tonight
I'll run the brake lines before I final mount this part.
Slow goin this week, also working on installing pergo in my office (too many projects!)
Attachment 130930
finally mounted the rad after fitting up the FFR panels, the ReplicaParts panel cost more to ship than the part costs :(
Attachment 130928 Attachment 130929
Looking good buddy!
cleaned up a few items yesterday that have been putting off...
installed more Thermo-Tec on the FF Metal firewall, maybe overkill but would be impossible later without a teardown...
will definitely be buying a few more rolls of this stuff to get everything covered, 2 rolls isn't nearly enough
Attachment 131593
my ABS sensors (Motorcraft BRAB-406) arrived after I had the rear brakes installed, and those sensors are long and too stiff to place (see 1st pic) with the rear bracket installed
had to undo the parking brake, rotor, caliper and loosen the bracket to install (I'm getting good at rebuilding!) you can see in the 3rd pic below how the bracket and wire are aligned, hence he teardown/rebuild
Attachment 131594 Attachment 131595 Attachment 131596
Next was to installed the breeze battery tray. I love Mike's stuff but I wasn't too keen on screwing a bolt into the 4" rail with no backing, so I opted to install an M8 nutsert instead
This was a funny story as I started getting the holes prepped and the one closest to the side is pretty tight and as I was compressing the nutsert, I was stuck against either the cross-bar or the jack stand
Hence, I had to jack the car up, replace the jack stand further back and then proceed... I nutsert was mangled in this process but once reset; the new one fit great!
Attachment 131597 Attachment 131598 Attachment 131599
This battery tray isn't going anywhere! and BTW if you don't have an air-rivet gun - GET ONE, seriously it's so effortless to set and shoot rivets!
next up will most likely be to drill out the rest of my sheetmetal, waiting for my rivet-fan to arrive so I can lay out better lines!
Aircraft Tool Supply Rivet Fan Spacing Tool
Attachment 131600
Nice work so far. I can tell you that 4 rolls of the Thermo-Tec will do the entire cockpit and then some. However, you have to use your big scrap prices too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTBradley
Thanks! That's what I've realized as well. Can't really over-do it with this stuff it lays out so easily and yes, I use all my scraps in all the places you never will see :)
Made more progress today on the driver footbox. Initially i was a bit puzzled on the kick-out panel, but Travis (Fman) helped with some pics of his setup :o
One of the issues of the 25th anniversary car is that the panels didn't come pre-staged on the chassis, just 2 boxes of panels and lots of guesswork!
I have to say, whoever developed clecos - I pray he's a rich man, because these things are awesome! I can't imagine building without them to be honest!
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aligning all the panels is pretty tricky, plus I had to notch the small front panel to make room for the nut/bolt setup for the Whitby brake brace
Attachment 131738
overall, pretty happy with the progress... it was 88F in the garage and that was with my portable A/C blasting - better than the 102F outside for sure!
some more fun drilling holes last night... you don't realize how many holes are in this car until you're 2 hours into it and there's a lot more to go!
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I'll most likely keep things cleco'ed in place until I know I'm done working around that section...
still need to figure out the mini drop trunk ideas and will have to change the locations for the pump and sender holes as well
My brother came down to visit and we drilled, sanded, clear coated and riveted panels for three days. We had a good time working together and the time flew by, but man, was I happy to have had help on that project. Your project is looking good!
-Steve
Toadster,Quote:
Originally Posted by toadster
I’m also a big fan of cleco’s, which are totally ingenious, and I wondered who actually invented them. Apparently, the “cleco” tool was originally commercialized the Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company. So, Cleveland . . . Co . . . = “CLECO.” I imagine this tool really came in handy for aircraft production during WWII.
The Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company filed a patent in 1941 for this tool, which looks a lot like a cleco tool: https://patents.google.com/patent/US...=2%2c328%2c866
If we are to give these inventors full credit for the cleco, then that credit belongs to Paul Van Sittert and Andrew J. Lev, who were employees of the Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Co. at the outbreak of WWII.
I would note, however, that a French citizen, Mr. Jean J. Blanc, invented something strikingly similar in 1936: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2328866?oq=2136875
I’ll leave it to historians to figure out who the “true” cleco inventor is. But I agree it’s a great tool!
BTW, I'm a patent attorney, hence my weird obsession with who invented what.
started the fuel lines yesterday... I have fragola PTFE lines and AN fittings, an Earl's and Russell setup for the in-tank pump
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initial cut was with tin snips LOL - yeah that wasn't good
2nd cut was with a hacksaw with a fine tooth blade - if the ends are taped up good - it's not a bad solution
3rd cut was with a dremel and cutoff wheel - was easy but dusty!
2ft done, about 12 more to go! :)
drilled about 350 holes tonight... geesh! when does it stop!? LOL
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did more sound/heat deadener too
Attachment 132909
Hahaha - hang in there... it eventually ends. ;)
I spent what seemed like an eternity drilling holes. When I finally finished I spent an entire afternoon with the shop vac cleaning the garage. I'm so glad that phase is over.
Todd, would you mind to put some links on what you ordered from Summit? (fuel filter, fittings, amount of line) I notice you have some type of jig/wrench to attach the -AN fittings? I am going to latch on to your fuel line solutions, assuming you are going to run the Fragola lines all way to engine with no hard lines?Quote:
Originally Posted by toadster
Keep 'er up! Builds looking great!:D
Hahaha. Yeah, I got a good chuckle off that! How many licks to the center of a tootsie pop? That silly but very pondering commercial we all loved. It's time that we update it.
Mr Todd, how many holes drilled to the completion of one's dream? I'm starting to think the builder might not know either, since I've already lost count myself. So, I guess it is true?! The world may never know...
Build is looking good and you're way ahead of me. Keep at it!
Dj
Thanks Dj! LOL, yeah there is SO much more to drill!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by ydousurf
Thanks Travis!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fman
Here's my list from Summit
Part Number Item Price Qty Total AEI-15606 FITTING $14.06 3 $42.18 AER-FCM3661 Aluminum Vise Jaw Inserts $34.99 1 $34.99 FRA-600106 STR HOSE END $10.99 6 $65.94 FRA-602006 TEFLON HOSE 20 FT $82.99 1 $82.99 SUM-900106 #6 AN WRENCH 11/16 HEX $9.99 1 $9.99
you may want to play with end-types - I initially got all straight end connectors - but they're not too bad price wise to switch as needed.
Thank you! Mucho appreciated!:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by toadster
Do you have a link for the fuel filter? I like your style you are using much better, assuming it would work fine with my 427/EFI setup as well?
The Aeromotive setup I have is nice, it's a bit tight though, will have to disconnect both ends and push the filter up to unmountQuote:
Originally Posted by Fman
the 10 micron is perfect for EFI setup
my setup is the Aeromotive 12347 Filter, In-Line, 10-Micron Fabric Element, 2" OD
with the Aeromotive 12701 Filter Mounting Bracket, Black Spring Steel, Rubber Coated
If i changed the build, I'd most likely use
Aeromotive 12317 Filter, Canister, 10-Micron Fabric Element, 3/8" NPT Port, Bright-Dip Red Top/Black Cup, SS Series
because the mount stays put and you simply unscrew/drop the filter, no disconnecting needed
finally pulled the trigger on the Wilwood EPBs, I got a better deal going through Jegs, versus Summit Racing as Jegs has a $30 off over $750 deal and the taxes were about 1/2 of Summit Racing... came to just over $1k
in typical guy fashion, no directions - and I lined up the caliper and sighed, awww crud they interact with the springs :(
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so, I prayed the directions would tell me differently...
EPB CALIPER - Mount the EPB calipers per the installation instructions included with your specific Wilwood brake kit, reference
Figure 3. EPB calipers are left and right handed, however they can be used on either side of the vehicle to best suit your specific
application.
light bulb turned on, there is an offset that changes side to side , so I swapped sides - voila! They fit! They're close, but should have no issues!
Attachment 135224 Attachment 135225Attachment 135226
here's both sides mounted - the new EPB calipers have 'wilwood' printed on them where the regular ones were blank...
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sorry for all the dust, shows you how much ash got into the garage the past few weeks with all the CA fires this month...
So those are electric parking brakes?? I wonder if it's a universal kit. Gotta check that out, very cool!
:)
yep! just electric wires, no cables!Quote:
Originally Posted by David Hodgkins
the Kit i ordered that fits the .81" rotors is 950-140-15978-BK
if you want Red it will be 950-140-15978-RD
That's awesome! Thanks for being the trailblazer on that. Definitely looks like an easier and cleaner install than the E-Stopp, and by the time I factor in what I spent to make my custom mounting tray and custom parking brake cables for the E-Stopp, the Wilwoods aren't that much more expensive. What else did they come with in the way of a controller, switch, etc?
The smoke and ash was also pretty bad here in the Bay Area the last couple of weeks. It's only been in the last couple of days that we've started getting good air quality again. All the cars are covered in ash, but I'm reluctant to wash them because that will guarantee another round of smoke and ash.
the whole setup looks like thisQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnK
Attachment 135244
comes with the controller, wiring and a switch for the dash (or wherever)
Attachment 135245
Toadster,
Your build is coming along pretty good.
man after a long break, back into it again...
my son stopped over last night and we tackled the front ABS sensors which has been bugging me for a while
The Russ Thompson ABS brackets are designed for the '95 ABS sensors but I have the '07-09 GT500 ABS setup so different sensors Motorcraft BRAB-290
thankfully my son has better vision than me (LOL) and noticed that @johngeorge had drilled some new holes for these sensors!
we pulled the ABS brackets and drilled a few holes and now the sensors are perfect!
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baby steps but progress!!!
I ordered a bracket for my HCU since mine came without one - but I can't complain, the GT500 HCU was $15, and I found the bracket for $20 shipped LOL
Next I'll be mounting the brake reservoirs and figuring out the placement of the HCU to run the brake lines.
Back in the game! Looking good my friend, I commend you for your brake system that ABS is going to be awesome!
Finally getting back on the car... time to get fuel lines installed!
I drilled and tapped 5 of 6 holes, last one in the engine bay will depend on FPR placement
To get a measurement of how long of a run, I used some simple cord from home depot ~$4 on sale and trimmed/burnt the ends to keep from unravelling, taped from the filter to the engine bay
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I drilled out and set my Earl's dual line mounts, and got to the Fragola AN6 straight fittings...
In order to mount the fittings, I had to get longer socket-head 1/4-20 screws - they fit perfectly into the frame!
I also got the Fragola Hose Pressure Kit to test for air leaks, and I think both ends need re-doing...
Yes, I need to get new olives since these are a 1 time use thing...
https://youtu.be/jN-yOVF-qEk
Earl's 1/2" Hose & Tubing Separator Black https://amzn.to/3rfkQ04
Earl's Performance AN to Straight Cut O-Ring Fittings AT949006ERL https://amzn.to/3p73SPz
1/4-20 x 7/8" Socket Head Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Full Thread, Bright Finish, Machine Thread https://amzn.to/34taK24
Fragola FRG900666 Size (-6) Individual Hose Pressure Test Kit https://amzn.to/3atQOj9
Todd, I found when using these AN fittings you need to push the olive flush against the vice to bottom them out on the hose before tightening down and using lube on the threads is a big help aiding in tightening them down. I also trimmed a little off the steel braid back around the olive nut before tightening them. Have you tried to tighten those fittings a little more before pulling them apart? Sometimes they need just a little more to complete the seal.