I Love Do-Overs, Gen 3 Coyote News
Couple of things since my last update. When I posted about the installation of the Eibach 1-inch rear wheel spacers last week, which involved shortening the existing wheel studs, I had only completed the driver side. Then took the weekend off. First thing Monday went after the passenger side. I still had my calipers set for the amount to trim off the ends of the wheel studs. Checked one of the pieces cut from the other side just to be sure. Looked good. Marked where to cut them, zipped off the five pieces with the air cut-off tool, cleaned up the ends with a file, and proceeded to install the wheel spacer. Uh-Oh. Big problem. The studs were too short. The lug nuts holding the spacer had at least 1/8-inch of open threads. Never acceptable, but especially for something as critical as wheel lug nuts. I can’t believe stuff like this happens, but it does. I remembered that when I went to install the kit supplied 1/2-20 studs, there were two slightly different styles. The tapered end on five was slightly different than the other five. Of course I put the matching five together on each side. Just what I do. What I now know, which didn’t register until now, is that one set was 1/4-shorter than the other. As a result, my cut off studs were now 1/4-inch too short. The warning signs were there, but I blew right past them and didn’t check carefully enough before cutting. You know the old carpenter’s line – I cut it three times and it was still too short. I guess that applies to building cars as well. I had no choice but to tear everything apart and replace those five studs. One step forward, two back.
Checked local parts stores, and no one had the right studs in stock. Checked Summit and they had multiple options. Ordered Dorman 610-290. Only thing available was a package of 10, so enough for another do-over (!!). Price was right though. I like ARP stuff, but theirs were three times the price for 5. I figured the Dorman parts were equivalent to the ones I already had, which turned out to be the case. While waiting for the parts to arrive, tore the rear suspension down and removed the bearing hub. Wasn’t too bad. After getting the brakes off, with the UCA and toe arm bolts out, the knuckle swung far enough out to get the CV axle out of the way and access to the four bearing bolts. Pressed out the now too short studs, cut the new ones to the proper length once they arrived (after checking my math multiple times), installed them into the hub, and put everything back together. All worked out fine and the replacement studs were exactly the right length. Good grief. What a pain. I put some Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Satin rattle can paint on the spacers and installed torquing the nuts to 85 ft/lbs. Now really done on both sides. I think. :rolleyes:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1518101070
On a separate note, a little bit of news about the Gen 3 Coyote. Last Saturday, our local club (Great Lakes Cobra Club) had a club meeting at a restaurant in Dearborn. Just down the street from Ford world headquarters. We had a special speaker from Ford Performance who presented some information about Coyotes, especially related to their crate versions and use in our cars. He gave some general information about the upcoming Gen 3 Coyote crate, and afterwards I spoke with him in more detail. The high level summary is they do expect the crate Gen 3 to be released later this year. Probably by summer. They have a completed version running in a mule Mustang. Pricing hasn’t been finalized, but it will be more expensive. Apparently the DI components added are not cheap. They will have the Gen 3 crate Coyote displayed at the Ford booth at the Detroit Autorama March 2-4, along with the mule Mustang. I always attend that show so will take the opportunity to see it in person and talk to the Ford people in the booth. Maybe I can get a further update about availability at that time. Also will be using the next month to confirm if it will fit in the Gen 3 Coupe. That DI pump on the RH cylinder bank is an open question. Based on that, I’ll hopefully be able to make a decision about the Gen 3 Coyote for my build. I was also told they have about a one year supply of the Gen 2 Coyote crates in the Ford Performance warehouse. So doesn’t seem there’s too much danger of not being able to get one of those if I decide to go that way. I won't be disappointed if that happens. But not going to give up on the Gen 3 version quite yet. We’ll see. On a separate note, the Fast 'N Loud "winning" Pantera and (I think he said...) Factory Five Snap-On Coupe will be in the Ford Performance booth at Autorama as well. Will be interesting to check those out in person.
Speaking of engines, hopefully the parts needed to start mocking up the drivetrain in my build, including the T-56, will be arriving soon. That’s next up.
Preparing for Engine Mockup Plus
Lots going on since my last update. Not the least of which was oral surgery after cracking a molar eating breakfast cereal of all things. Happened before Christmas, but our dentist wasn’t able to save it and it was hurting like crazy. So he recommended I meet his friend the oral surgeon. All over and mostly healed. Feels much better. Meanwhile, spending lots of money the past week or so. Making a dent in the shopping list. That’s my story anyway. I think my wife mostly believes me. No worries. She’s very supportive. I have everything I need, and tomorrow plan to drop in the engine/trans mockup. But first some other updates.
Several have commented about the Corbeau Sportline Evolution X seats I’ve decided to use, and specifically asked about the mounting brackets. I ended up with Corbeau C22059 Single Slider Brackets. These are one of three recommended universal brackets for these seats, and result in about 1-inch added height. Perfect for what I wanted. This is a view from the bottom. They bolt to the seat at four corners, and then flat to the floor of the cockpit. Fit very well. Also visible here is the wiring and relay for the factory installed seat heaters.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1518571496
While waiting for parts to arrive, did some more planning for the instrument panel. It’s starting to come into focus. I want to stay with the basic Factory Five design but try to (hopefully) class it up a little. I’m planning to cover the dash with vinyl like the seats with 1/8-inch cushion on the face of the dash. I'll work with the interior shop I’ve used before to add some red stitching. Also like the seats. Same for door cards. For the dash itself, I’m going to follow my usual practice and hide all the fasteners. Just something I like to do. Once I finalize the gauge layout, I’m planning to make a new piece and install it flush into the dash held with a doubler on the back. I appreciate the Factory Five design that uses separate panels for the various gauge options and a common dash. But I want to clean it up just a little and the doubler will make it a little more solid.
First thing I’ve actually done is to attach the dash ends. I used hammer set flush solid aluminum rivets and put the first pass of filler on the edges. The vinyl will be wrapped around for a clean seamless look. I’m going to add an extension on the bottom center for switches and the HVAC controls. Just playing with some paper patterns right now. I’m probably going to use the brow piece. But we’ll see. Also tentatively planning to fab a glovebox similar to #8674. Handy to have plus I like the look and I think there’s room. Still very much a work in progress, but where I’m at right now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1518571531
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1518571521
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1518571511
In the general category of why I could never build one of these in the several hundred hours suggested by Factory Five, spent some time cleaning up the door hinges. They’re nicely made and once installed only the arms show. I decided I wanted to remove the seam and small gaps on the visible corners of the arms, making them look solid. Well from one side anyway. Since I don’t weld, took them to the guy who’s done welding for me before and he ran a small bead along all eight corners. Then ground, sanded, filed, etc. (I’m not really too well equipped for this sort of thing) until they looked like this. Now off to powder coat and I think they’ll look good. Absolutely unnecessary and non-valued added work. But something I wanted to do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1518571708
After looking at every option I could find, went ahead and ordered the Factory Five heat/defroster/A-C setup. There are a number of systems out there, e.g. Vintage Air, etc. I just wanted to make sure I had the best option. In the end, the space available in the Gen 3 Coupe is very limited and the Factory Five offering looks like the best and maybe only solution. I’m going with it. Also found out the Gen 3 Coupe side windows are now available for sale. The design is firmed up and fabrication and powder coat underway. Hopefully I’ll see them in a few weeks. But no rush. It will be a while before I need them. The part number BTW is 60371 Gen 3 Coupe Side Window Components.
So on to the engine/trans mockup. I talked about the Gen 2 Coyote block I borrowed in a previous update. I ordered the Moroso pan and pickup, QuickTime RM-8080 bell housing, and Tremec T-56 transmission. I was able to score a great price on the QuickTime bell housing on eBay. A shop in California had one NIB for not that much more than the Tremec aluminum bell. So I grabbed it. Arrived today and exactly as advertised. As I understand the aluminum bell for the T-56/Coyote combination is being discontinued. So the QuickTime appears to be the only solution going forward. One thing I did notice. This is an SFI approved bell housing, and has a full circle with a line of bolts on the bottom. I suspect it's going to hang below the oil pan. I don't know yet how much it may hang below the frame. I'll find out when I mock it up and decide what to do. Probably some trimming will be required.
The T-56 I bought is actually a Ford Performance M-7003-M6266, but is a Tremec TUET11010 with a Ford Performance label. Just picked it up today and it looks good. It’s bigger and heavier than the TKO’s I’ve used, as expected. Nothing to trim off though, which is nice. One minor thing I was a little surprised about. It came with a metal plug with O-ring and bolted retainer in the mechanical speed sensor location. Not the usual rubber shipping plug. Nothing to do there. Pieces look like this right now:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1518571635
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1518575886
Tomorrow I’ll get things bolted together and dropped into the chassis.
Engine/Trans Mock-up Installed
Today I was able to get the block/bell housing/T-56 assembled and installed into the chassis. I don’t have a flywheel, clutch, or throw-out bearing installed since the block is just a temporary mockup. So that made the assembly pretty easy. Without that stuff in the way, I could confirm the input shaft length into the pilot bearing. All went into the chassis pretty easily once I removed the shifter from the T-56. I thought it might go in with it still installed, but I was wrong about that one. Did the installation myself. First time I’ve tried that. Wasn’t too hard since just a block and not the whole engine. But help to tug, push, pull at all the right times is certainly a better choice. Not too much to say except post some pics and offer some observations.
A Coyote without heads, intake, and front dress fits pretty easily.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1518656839
As mentioned, I had to remove the shifter mid-installation. Don’t make that mistake. Take it off before dropping the engine in. Way easier. Plus as I found out, it needs to be turned around. Perfect location for the shifter. No mid-shift needed (or possible) with the T-56/Coyote combo.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1518656831
I have the Coyote spacers in the motor mounts. You can actually see them in the upper corners of this pic. The Moroso pan is a little above the frame rails. It will be slightly lower when I get the real engine installed. My mock-up block doesn’t have the pan gasket/windage tray assembly. So the pan is slightly higher without that added thickness. Engine is sitting nice and level.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1518656847
The QuickTime RM-8080 does extend below the frame however. You can see how much here. I’ll be trimming some/most of this off. Will affect the bottom three bolts, and in theory I guess invalidate the SFI rating. But not an issue for my use. I wouldn’t want that extra amount hanging below the frame. All seven of those bolts in this location are just holding the block plate to the bell. None are actual bolts into the block.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1518656855
The only real issue I had was the transmission mounting plate. The picture in the assembly manual showed it upside down. Once I figured that out, found that with it mounted on top of the frame tabs, the shifter was hard against the bottom of the transmission tunnel frame. Had to trim it slightly and put below the frame tabs. Height for the T-56 in that position was perfect.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1518656864
Test fit the kit supplied driveshaft and it’s fine. Don’t need quite that much slip joint exposed for IRS, but it still has plenty of engagement. Pinion angle is fine. All good.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1518656872
Overall bottom view of the installed drivetrain. The T-56 fit has easy clearance all around. Not at all the tight fit like the Roadster. Very nice. While I don’t want to ever have to do it, I think it would come out pretty easily without removing the engine. Clutch changes, etc. should be relatively routine. With the rear mounting plate removed, the transmission is pretty free to move around and swing out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1518656889
A few details to wrap up, but now onward with fuel and brake lines. No big surprises.