289 USRRC - vspeeds - #9180 Build Thread

With the dash board in place, and with the bracket on the Russ Thompson turn signal, you cannot mount the turn signal through the dashboard. it requires you to place the turn signal assembly onto the dashboard as you are mounting the dashboard. During fitment, I managed to really scuff up the main tube of the turn signal as it was rubbing against the dashboard. The scuff marks are under the blue tape but you can see a little of it. The best way I've found to install was to remove the 2 rivets supporting the bracket, mount the dashboard then slide the turn signal down the steering shaft, then re-attach the bracket. So to make life a little easier, I have replaced the rivets with 10-24 rivnuts. As you can see in the picture, both rivnuts will clear the steering shaft. Then I milled out the spacers just a bit so the base of the rivnut would fit inside the spacer. Then I used a weatherpack connector to tie into the wiring harness. The pushbutton on the end of the turn signal arm is used for the speedometer/odometer reset button. For that I bought an extra plug/button switch from Speedhut and cut off the button and soldered the wires to the other end of the weatherpack connector. Now I'll have to touch up the scuff marks before permanent assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1547261211

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1547261233

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1547261222

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1547966749

Here is a build update. I have about 50 plus miles in go-kart stage. Everything seemed fine except I was getting a little grind when going into reverse in the TKO600. I did the "put in forward gear, then reverse" trick and it seemed to help. However, I decided to bleed the hydraulic throwout bearing one last time. In doing so, I forgot to secure and make sure the bleed hose line would not rub against the rotating clutch. Well it did and it caused the line to fail. This happened a few days before I was scheduled to bring the car to the paint shop. So the vehicle is now at the body/paint shop getting the doors, hood, and trunk hung and aligned. Then the body will be removed and next week, Feb. 12, 2019, I'll be able to tow the chassis back home to fix the hydraulic throwout bearing. The bleed hose line is permanently attached to the bearing and does not have a removable union at the bearing end. The only way to fix it is to remove the transmission! Since my install is not that complicated, I think it will be easiest to remove the engine and transmission altogether. So for time constraints I decided to replace the bearing with a new one rather than trying to repair the old one. I'm glad it is still in go kart stage as I'm not sure if I would want to remove the engine while the body is on. While the chassis is back home I'll also put most of the carpet in and finish the interior and dashboard. Then we'll tow the car back to the shop and hopefully in March/April, I'll have a completed and painted car.

Here are a few pics of the damaged bleed line as well as my practice dashboard setup. For the dashboard I'm copying EdwardB's build using 1/8" Volara sculpting foam and the DAP Weldwood contact cement. I also purchased faux leather "Symphony Classic-black" all from YourAutoTrim.com.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1547966731

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1549311731

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1549311720

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1549311738

I drained the coolant and transmission oil and removed the engine and transmission on 2/22/19 and replaced the HRB. The following day on the 23rd, we installed it back onto the chassis. It wasn't difficult but just time consuming. I was gone all week and was able to work on the car again today. Added transmission oil and coolant. I can't believe the price for the coolant $16 a gallon. That little mistake of not properly securing the HRB bleed line sure was a costly mistake. Today I started her up and took a ride around the neighborhood. Everything seems fine. No leaks or funny noises. Here is a photo of the ruptured bleed line.

Also a photo of the body at Ken Pikes.

Next is to complete the dashboard and install the carpet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1551482285

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1551482267

I put another 4 gallons of fuel in and drove the go-kart. What a blast!

Last week I put on temporary turn signals and brake lights and drove around the neighborhood. I originally ditched the supplied trailer harness as I understand they do not work with the rear LED lights. So I originally wired in the diodes that were suggested. The diodes worked fine. However, the drawback is that they do not allow the flasher to flash when the rear brakes are applied. So I ended up purchasing a powered trailer converter and removed the diodes. It was pretty simple wiring conversion. I used the same connectors as the diodes and added a power wire and ground. The extra wires on the converter were just cut and capped. Now with the converter wired in, the turn signals and hazards flash when the brakes are applied.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1552890089

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1552889692

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1552890754

Here are some photos of my dashboard. I don't know how some guys really tidy up the wiring behind the dash and make it look clean. I suppose I could cut, splice, solder, re-size everything. But that is too much for me to handle...and I skimped on the wire ties as I want to be able to access the gauges with the dashboard still on.

The dashboard was a blank that I drilled openings for. The supplies I got from wareaglescotts thread: yourautotrim.com. The covering is 1/8" thick volara foam and Symphony Classic Black faux leather. The glue I used was sprayed with Weldwood contact cement [by the way this is the stuff movie makers use when they burn people in cinema (with fireproof clothing of course)].

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1552891529

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1552891519

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1552891507

Eddie, I wish that I had kept up with your build thread better. Just caught up, and the situation that you had with the Russ Thompson turn signal unit was the same thing I was running into. I decided to call Russ to see if I was doing something wrong. Turns out, there's a small screw on the side with the turn signal arm, just below it actually. If you loosen it you can remove the large collar portion of the unit, leaving just the column. You can install the column, and the dash slides right over it, and just put the collar back on after the dash is on.
As far as the wires behind the dash, I'm with you, too much to handle to clean it up!

Rick

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Originally Posted by EZ$

Eddie, I wish that I had kept up with your build thread better. Just caught up, and the situation that you had with the Russ Thompson turn signal unit was the same thing I was running into. I decided to call Russ to see if I was doing something wrong. Turns out, there's a small screw on the side with the turn signal arm, just below it actually. If you loosen it you can remove the large collar portion of the unit, leaving just the column. You can install the column, and the dash slides right over it, and just put the collar back on after the dash is on.
As far as the wires behind the dash, I'm with you, too much to handle to clean it up!

Rick

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Ez$
I saw that screw. I was too scared to remove it. I was thinking about calling Russ but I never did. Good to know that the assembly can be taken apart. Thanks

I started on the carpet installation. I decided to put carpet edging on the seams using the left-over faux leather from the dashboard. I wasn't too happy with the results, but I'm going to have to live with it for now. Actually the straight runs are good its just the radii and right angles that are all kinked up. However, the floor mats cover all that up. The trans tunnel cover is removable just aft of the center dash supports.I still have to figure out how i'm going to make the carpet transition from the tunnel to the fixed portion. Again that's because of the right angles and curves needed. I also made a shift boot cover with the left overs. That I'm happy with. Stitching the faux leather was pretty simple but the thick carpet was a lot harder than I anticipated. I also made aluminum panels to protect the carpet near the accelerator pedal and clutch area pedal foot rest. That was made with the cut out piece from the drop trunk mod.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1552887094

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1552887103

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1554083911

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1554083893

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1554083910

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1554083912

Looks good Eddie, I can't believe you sewed your own shift lever boot. Can I put in an order for one? LOL.

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Originally Posted by Mark Eaton

Looks good Eddie, I can't believe you sewed your own shift lever boot. Can I put in an order for one? LOL.

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Mark
Let me know and I'll make you a shift boot.

Here is the e-brake boot I made by taking the original apart and using that as a pattern. In the picture you could see where I don't like the carpet transition from the removable Trans tunnel to the fixed portion under the center dash supports. I'm going to have to practice some more stitching and figure out how I'm going to make that look better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1554246829

I originally used the hydraulic reservoir supplied with the complete kit (plus 2 purchased ones). I heard they leak but I went ahead and used them anyways. They leak at the area where the neck and the body meet. I figured if I don't fill the reservoirs up to the neck I'd be OK. Well they do leak and I didn't like that. Since the body is not on yet, I replaced the supplied reservoirs with the Wilwood ones. The drawback with the Wilwwods is the price. Also they have a weird thread size that you can't get fittings for. It has a -3AN fitting and I had to get a -3AN to -4AN fitting then a -4AN elbow to a 1/4"hose barb fitting to be able to use the existing hoses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1541393169

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1554246803

In California I'll need the closed PCV system in order to pass the BAR. I replaced the breather with this Trickflow brand unit. Then drilled out a hole in the bottom plate of the air cleaner and attached a bulkhead fitting. Then attached a PCV hose with an elbow. Hopefully this will pass inspection. I was originally just going to use this setup for inspection then remove it. But I like the Trickflow oil filler tube so I might just make this permanent. If so, Ill replace the hose clamps with better ones.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1554246812

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1554246847

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1554246857

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1554246869

My body is still at the shop awaiting paint. I have over 450 go kart miles on the odometer. Here is a quick video of starting it up and idling.

https://youtu.be/7A8o8L5d5XI

Awesome! I love that Roush engine. Your build looks really clean Eddie.

Looks and sounds great. Love that under car exhaust. Nice work.
-Steve

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Originally Posted by Vspeeds

This engine has been sitting in my garage for the last several years

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1502996573
(old photo from computer resized)

I'm thinking I might change out the Holly carb and installing a bolt on FiTech EFI.

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I'm looking through this thread again.

I have to say that is the coolest steerable engine stand I've ever seen.

Thanks Mark and Steve. I cant wait to drive this thing when the body is finished.

CobraboyDR: that stand is cool. Unfortunately its not mine. It was made by the guys at Roush to show the engine. And Those are gocart wheels

While I've been waiting for the body to get painted, I've gotten a little braver in go-carting. During normal driving everything seemed ok. However, lately Ive been driving a little more aggressive. I noticed when I make a sharp right turn carrying a little speed, the engine would stutter. When I was deciding on an in tank fuel pump. I heard the stock hanger with its 1/4" return line was too restrictive and with its outlet set up high in the hanger, the return fuel would aerate the fuel. I opted to not use the stack hanger. Instead I bought a fuel pump system which I had to drill a larger hole in the tank and dropped the assembly into the tank. The pickup was outside of the baffle. I was told that as long as the pickup sock touches fuel id be OK. Well without the baffle the fuel just sloshed which caused the stutter. Thanks to Brien (BB767) he showed me this improved hanger which has a 3/8" return line with a longer outlet which returns the fuel towards the bottom and within the fuel level itself which eliminates the aeration. It also has -6AN fuel fittings. This assembly would fit on the stock opening and would pickup the fuel in the stock tank baffle. The company website has a cool video to show the aeration caused by the stock hanger.

To fix the issue, I had to buy a new tank and the new hanger and I re-used the old pump. The old fuel lines just screwed into the -6AN fittings. Everything is now installed. I put another 20 miles on the car with no stutter at all. I wish I would have known about this product before as it would have saved me some $$$

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1558135436

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1558135444

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1558135454

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1558135462


Thanks Brien for showing me that hanger.

No problem Eddie! Can't wait to see you on the road!

The body was painted last Friday. Here are a few pics.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1560364276

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1560363755

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1560363777

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1560363778

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Looks great Eddie!

And you thought it would never get done! Look at it now.

Looks stunning E! When will you get it back home? J

The contours and body lines look great in that color. Great choice.
-Steve

Can’t wait to see it all back together. Silver is a great choice.

Here are a few more photos. The painted body is on the chassis. Ken did an exceptional job and I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. We picked up the car and brought it back home on July 2. Unfortunately, i had to work on the 2nd. We brought the car back, drove around the block a few times and I parked it in the garage and I left for my 110 mile commute to work. I haven't been home yet. I'll be home tomorrow afternoon (July 6). I can't wait to start putting the cobra back together when i get home tomorrow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1562359124

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1562359159

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1562359160

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Looks Like we’re on parallel tracks my friend. Mine came home from the paint shop on 28 June and it just rolled out the door of my garage all put back together this morning. My son and I went for a ride this afternoon but only for about a half hour because with 90 degree outside temperatures It’s about 120 in the cockpit.

Looks like the home stretch Eddie. Ken did a great job.

I am intrigued by your exhaust system. Did you post some pics of it somewhere?

Beautiful silver paint!

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Originally Posted by chuckster

Looks Like we’re on parallel tracks my friend. Mine came home from the paint shop on 28 June and it just rolled out the door of my garage all put back together this morning. My son and I went for a ride this afternoon but only for about a half hour because with 90 degree outside temperatures It’s about 120 in the cockpit.

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Yes we are on a parallel track and my number is only 8 ahead of yours (9180). These cars do get a little hot and uncomfortable but i look forward to be able to drive it this summer.

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Originally Posted by Jimtmich

Beautiful silver paint!

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Thanks. The color is called Aston Martin Skyfall Silver

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Originally Posted by CobraboyDR

I am intrigued by your exhaust system. Did you post some pics of it somewhere?

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There are some pics posted in this thread. Post#106

I got home from work on July 6th and started to put the car back together. The next day on July 7th I was able to drive it for the first time with the body on. Here are a couple of pictures of when I set the headlights and aimed them. Then I went for an evening drive. I still have to reinstall the oil cooler and a little more jewelry.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1562739327

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1562739318

My driver door got stuck today. I was able to open it with a little finesse. Further examination revealed the chrome latch handle came off of its center access rotating thingy. The picture shows it better than my explanation. Apparently this is a common issue and awhile back I saved the forum threads that fixed the problem. I didn't anticipate having to do this early as I only opened and closed the door less than 100 times. Just like the threads said; I used a 5/16 carriage bolt by 3/4" length, a washer, and a lock nut. The square part of the bolt fits perfectly in the rotating hinge. I did have to grind down a little material in the hinge so the washer would lay flush. I used lithium grease and put it all back together. Probably a ten minute fix for each latch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1562738901

I like your narrow rear tire.

Great looking build.. Job well done

I decided to make my own door panels. I used this Celtec brand expanded pvc stuff I had already at home. Its size is 1/8" thickness (not the thickness shown in the photo). I use this stuff for model making and I love it. The faux leather is left-overs from my dashboard. I bought elastic from Joanns Fabrics. This pocket on the driver side perfectly holds my ear plugs, gloves, and sunglass case, and there's room for more. I still have to complete the aluminum around the door threshold.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1563198682

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1563198492

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1563198492

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1563198492

Here are a few more pics. I still have to put the front grill on and some aluminum panels. I passed my Brake and Lamp inspection last week and I go to CHP on July 29 for VIN assignment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1563427217

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1563427207

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1563427199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1563427190

Almost there Eddie! Nice clean look!