Star Mobile 1 Build

I was able to get the brakes bled this weekend. Seemed to be a little bit more of a challenge for me than I had originally anticipated. I must admit this was my first attempt to bleed brakes, so I am sure that has almost everything to do with it. Anyway, I went one time around on all corners with the vacuum method. I did have a couple connections I needed to tighten, I guess I also made the rookie mistake of not placing teflon tape on the connections coming out of the bottom of the reservoirs as well as the connections going into the calipers themselves. I had tightened both as tight as I thought I could get them and both were still seeping. I was challenged a bit by the Wilwood Brakes that required rotating to 3 or 9 o'clock while still around the rotor as the the positioning seemed to put the flex lines in some peculiar configurations. After completing yesterday morning, I let the chassis sit for the remainder of the day on the lift and periodically checked for leaks...so far so good. I did have an issue with my lift where it would just continue to go up! I think the switch is bad, will deal with the manufacturer on that later today. I am going to go ahead and make another round on all corners tonight bleeding the lines and check once again for leaks. I used the vacuum method the first time around, I will have a helper this time and will try the old fashioned method for the final go around.

Well done, that job is fast approaching for me too.

Engine should be ready to ship Monday...Attachment 70165Attachment 70166Attachment 70167Attachment 70168Attachment 70169Attachment 70170Attachment 70171Attachment 70172Attachment 70173

Is there some additional information about setting up the brake bias bar that ya'll may be able to share? After looking at the manual and then the Wilwood instructions, it just seems like there is more to the set-up than just adjusting the threaded rods from each MC forward or backwards. I have currently bled my system once (I know I still have some air in the system), but the diagram that is in the manual shows the front brake clevis forward of the rear brake clevis with "no effort" or at rest, then the clevises are even at "moderate effort" and finally the front clevis edges past the rear clevis with "heavy effort". Am I taking the drawing too literal in thinking that the clevises should appear this way as they travel? Mine start out in the correct position but then just maintain the same relative position throughout travel. I will qualify by saying that my MC's are installed opposite of the picture (the bores are correct for each respective brake...Fronts 3/4", Rears 5/8") as during my initial buildup and plumbing (other than the diagram for the bias bar set-up) there was no reference to if a certain MC needed to be placed to the left or right. Anyway, I have adjusted rods forward and back on each MC, alternated the set-up and it seems no matter what I try I get the same visual result. There is a nut on the actual threaded bias rod (runs at angle in the picture), but even loosening and tightening this doesn't seem to achieve a difference. I think these are the areas where being a "Newbie" create some challenges, as your only frame of reference is the manual and we all know that what it depicts is sometimes inaccurate. I'm open to any advice, input or feedback on this one.
Thanks

Attachment 70433

No Effort...
Attachment 70430
Moderate Effort...
Attachment 70431
Heavy Effort...
Attachment 70432

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOP33

Is there some additional information about setting up the brake bias bar that ya'll may be able to share? After looking at the manual and then the Wilwood instructions, it just seems like there is more to the set-up than just adjusting the threaded rods from each MC forward or backwards. I have currently bled my system once (I know I still have some air in the system), but the diagram that is in the manual shows the front brake clevis forward of the rear brake clevis with "no effort" or at rest, then the clevises are even at "moderate effort" and finally the front clevis edges past the rear clevis with "heavy effort". Am I taking the drawing too literal in thinking that the clevises should appear this way as they travel? Mine start out in the correct position but then just maintain the same relative position throughout travel. I will qualify by saying that my MC's are installed opposite of the picture (the bores are correct for each respective brake...Fronts 3/4", Rears 5/8") as during my initial buildup and plumbing (other than the diagram for the bias bar set-up) there was no reference to if a certain MC needed to be placed to the left or right. Anyway, I have adjusted rods forward and back on each MC, alternated the set-up and it seems no matter what I try I get the same visual result. There is a nut on the actual threaded bias rod (runs at angle in the picture), but even loosening and tightening this doesn't seem to achieve a difference. I think these are the areas where being a "Newbie" create some challenges, as your only frame of reference is the manual and we all know that what it depicts is sometimes inaccurate. I'm open to any advice, input or feedback on this one.
Thanks

Attachment 70433

No Effort...
Attachment 70430
Moderate Effort...
Attachment 70431
Heavy Effort...
Attachment 70432

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I sure am glad you posted this. I have questioned my install every since I did it. I don't have mine plumbed yet, but when the pedal is depressed the rear M/C (outboard) moves first and leads during the entire pedal stroke. Is it because there is no hydraulic resistance yet?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HVACMAN

I sure am glad you posted this. I have questioned my install every since I did it. I don't have mine plumbed yet, but when the pedal is depressed the rear M/C (outboard) moves first and leads during the entire pedal stroke. Is it because there is no hydraulic resistance yet?

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I am not sure and it is unclear with the "drawing" whether they are just trying to show that the Front receives more pressure or if it physically should move past the rear.

Came across this in another thread... http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Brake-advice

Not sure it answers anything though.

Had a far more impressive "brake bleed" tonight, with significant rotor engagement on all four corners. Did uncover a few more small leaks, tightened, wiped down and am hopeful they will be dry in the morning. If not I may spend the rest of the weekend reforming & flaring some lines to reduce connections...fingers crossed! I must say at this point there is probably something to using the pre-flared pieces of brake line that FFR sends with the kit and looking back I would probably have tried a little harder to make them work for me knowing what I know now...everyday is a learning experience:rolleyes:.

Well I was hopeful that all was well on the brakes, however I woke to two connections leaking slightly. So knowing that I had already torqued on these (several times) to try and get them them to quit seeping and also hearing the voices of the Instructors at build school in the back of my head saying..."If you have a leak don't just wrench down on it to make it go away...if it's leaking while it's sitting in your garage, driving it down the road at 70mph probably isn't going to help the situation". So, I bit the bullet, vacuumed the fluid out, went ahead and changed the MC's around so that the layout would match the manual and proceeded to remove (6) connections out of the lines by re-plumbing some areas with longer runs. Things were moving along at a good pace and I had just finished all the forms and flares and had everything loosely fit when I went to re-tighten the tee and the front driver side brake caliper adapter fitting (the round fitting that connects to the flex lines)...when SNAP! The male end of the tee snap off in the adapter...needless to say, I am now awaiting the arrival of a new adapter from Summit. I still feel good about the changes I made and have my fingers crossed that once I get the fitting I should be able to close the system back up and bleed the brakes and move on...and if not, I may have to turn the brakes over to a professional, because as it is right now I may have the most expensive brake lines ever put on a FFR 33'!!!!

Fun times though!

Ugh, what do you think the cause was? Do the flares look good? I remember making some in the distant past with one of those cheap tools that didn't always look perfect, but they were in copper and it was so soft that I never had a leak once tightened.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOP33

Well I was hopeful that all was well on the brakes, however I woke to two connections leaking slightly. So knowing that I had already torqued on these (several times) to try and get them them to quit seeping and also hearing the voices of the Instructors at build school in the back of my head saying..."If you have a leak don't just wrench down on it to make it go away...if it's leaking while it's sitting in your garage, driving it down the road at 70mph probably isn't going to help the situation". So, I bit the bullet, vacuumed the fluid out, went ahead and changed the MC's around so that the layout would match the manual and proceeded to remove (6) connections out of the lines by re-plumbing some areas with longer runs. Things were moving along at a good pace and I had just finished all the forms and flares and had everything loosely fit when I went to re-tighten the tee and the front driver side brake caliper adapter fitting (the round fitting that connects to the flex lines)...when SNAP! The male end of the tee snap off in the adapter...needless to say, I am now awaiting the arrival of a new adapter from Summit. I still feel good about the changes I made and have my fingers crossed that once I get the fitting I should be able to close the system back up and bleed the brakes and move on...and if not, I may have to turn the brakes over to a professional, because as it is right now I may have the most expensive brake lines ever put on a FFR 33'!!!!

Fun times though!

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You switched the master cylinders around? Now I am really doubting my install. when sitting in the drivers seat, The front MC (3/4 in.) is on the right and the rear (5/8 in.) is on the left. Is this correct? That is what I interpreted from the FFR illustration.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HVACMAN

You switched the master cylinders around? Now I am really doubting my install. when sitting in the drivers seat, The front MC (3/4 in.) is on the right and the rear (5/8 in.) is on the left. Is this correct? That is what I interpreted from the FFR illustration.

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You are correct...and now mine matches that. The manual (other than the drawing) had not stated which to place where (at least that I had come across) and in the end I do believe it would work either way, but since I had everything a part (again) I went ahead and matched it to the drawing for consistency sake...it would have bothered me the entire time I owned the car if I would have left. Sorry, believe the last thing I wanted to do is to add to the confusion.

HTH

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOP33

You are correct...and now mine matches that. The manual (other than the drawing) had not stated which to place where (at least that I had come across) and in the end I do believe it would work either way, but since I had everything a part (again) I went ahead and matched it to the drawing for consistency sake...it would have bothered me the entire time I owned the car if I would have left. Sorry, believe the last thing I wanted to do is to add to the confusion.

HTH

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No worries. I was already doubting myself. You have really helped. Thanks.

After weeks of frustration on the brakes, I am finally happy with the outcome (I actually think that some of you have received your kits and finished them in the time it has taken me to get an acceptable outcome on my brakes:eek:). I was able to get a good "bleed" on the brakes without any significant leaks on the lines. When all was said and done, I just think it was poor flaring on my part. I think the key is just taking your time and accepting a compromise with yourself about functionality over looks. I also bought a MC bleed kit from Autozone ($10), that had some really useful plastic fittings that helped with the "bench" bleed for the MC's (actually allowed me to just do this on the chassis). I have had the chassis up on the lift for the better part of two days now, pumping then checking for leaks several times, with no issues...fingers crossed! In fact I was so confident that I moved on to installing the steering column and starting the install on the steering shafts. I ended up making some spacers to allow me to offset the steering column a bit so that it didn't fall so close to the brake pedal. Also went with a shorter bolts on one side to allow for easier clearance during tightening. I am to a point now where I am contemplating the location of the Unisteer steering assist module. Hope to do a little research tonight and see what ya'll have been able to come up with on this. Has anyone reached out to Unisteer to see if they offer some "extension" harnesses for the module? Sure would make things a little easier if there was about 2 more feet of wire. I'm hoping that I make some decent process this week as the engine and transmission are due to ship.

Reservoirs...Attachment 70998

Spacers for steering column and shorter bolts...Attachment 70999Attachment 71000

Firewall steering shaft bearing...Attachment 71001

Steering shaft pics...Attachment 71002Attachment 71003Attachment 71004Attachment 71005

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

Ugh, what do you think the cause was? Do the flares look good? I remember making some in the distant past with one of those cheap tools that didn't always look perfect, but they were in copper and it was so soft that I never had a leak once tightened.

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RR, I think it was just poor flaring on my part. I ended up buying (3) flare kits (all the same "cheaper" style, but different manufacturers) and saw really no huge difference between any of them. The first, I ended up breaking the pin on the mandrel that goes into the tubing to "bubble", the second and third both seem to work about the same. I am sure all of you are using the same style and I don't seem to hear about too many struggles, so I really believe it was either operator error on my part or there is just that much to be said for using the FFR supplied pre-flared lines. I was really close to having a local shop run them for me and it wouldn't take much in the future if I have additional issues to follow through. It seemed like a relatively simple process and I really wanted to complete them myself. Plus, I got to thinking that if I "outsource" the brakes it may start a a trend and that's not what I got the kit for.

Thanks

So to answer my own question...Unisteer doesn't offer an off the shelf option for the extended wire harnesses (it was worth a try), so splicing seems to be only other option :(.

It' been a few weeks since last update and honestly I haven't made much progress. Partly as I have been waiting on some parts but mostly it's been HOT. I have a 36" porta cool and it does a really good job if you are right up on it, but after that...let's face it, it's just blowing more hot air. We have been blessed with a bit of a cool down this last week though, so I tried to get a few things done...

Evaporator for the AC unit...Attachment 72126
Attachment 72127

Ordered and received Firewall Manifold for AC/Heater lines...
Attachment 72128

Ordered and received Radiator Shroud from Mike Everson...
Attachment 72129

Ordered Battery, battery shut-off and billet battery box as well.

Transmission was shipped on Monday and recieved (or rejected I should say) as transmission fluid was leaking all over the place (I assume the containers were damaged) and the DO NOT STACK sticker was crushed! So I rejected it, we'll see how long it takes for it to come back around. Was a little surprised to see it wasn't crated.

The Engine from Engine Factory was received today and they did an awesome job crating! Haven't unpackaged completely, will post some better pics when I do...Attachment 72130

Also built the bullet on a Engine lift...Attachment 72131

And installed an overhead lift in hopes it will help on getting the body on and off...Attachment 72132

Hope to get the rest of the aluminum panels Lizard Skin'd this weekend and start working on the fuel lines.

After emailing Dan Ruth about the evap location, I found that I had located it in the wrong place. I ended up sliding it toward the passenger side some and believe it is in its proper location now...Attachment 72252

I also fit-up the fuel tank and drilled holes for mounting bolts...Attachment 72253

Was able to spray the sound deadening coat of the Lizard Skin on the majority of the aluminum panels, 24 hours for drying then will spray ceramic coat tomorrow...Attachment 72254

Also unwrapped the engine as I couldn't help myself. Here are few pics...Attachment 72255Attachment 72256Attachment 72257

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOP33

Also unwrapped the engine as I couldn't help myself...

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I don't blame you, that's a good lookin motor!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxMike64

I don't blame you, that's a good lookin motor!!!

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Thx Mike...It will look a lot better sitting in that chassis...someday!

I was able to get a few things done yesterday. Since I sprayed the panels with Lizard Skin this week, I took the fuel tank out and placed the aluminum panel underneath it and re-installed the tank. I will try and run the fuel lines this week...Attachment 72579
I extended the plate that the evaporator is mounted to, so that I could also mount the Uni-Steer steering module on it as well...Attachment 72580
I also broke out the wiring harness and started some preliminary routing of it...Attachment 72581Attachment 72582Attachment 72583
Got the fuse panel located and mounted as well...Attachment 72584Attachment 72585
I have opted to place the battery in the trunk so the power cable is about 2' too short, so I am ordering a longer cable lead that will reach all the way to the trunk without having to splice. I also will need to pick up some wire to extend the leads on the Uni-Steer module since I have it behind the firewall now. Fuel lines and plumbing for the tank are the plan for this week.

Are most builders installing the engine and transmission before the radiator/condenser or waiting until after? Would like to hear your thoughts.

Thanks

Cannot get mine in or out with front on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOP33

Are most builders installing the engine and transmission before the radiator/condenser or waiting until after? Would like to hear your thoughts.

Thanks

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Pretty much everyone is setting the engine in first, but you may want to do a mock fit of the grille early and then pull it off. Since you have the engine already you can get it in and bag it while you do all the fiberglass or just leave it closed up and clean. Your doing really nice detail work under the dash so you may want to paint the rough glass under the dash a light primer color. The glass is thin around the cowl mold line also. good time to add some mat and cloth before you start fitting up the body. I like more glass under the window mounting area just for peace of mind. A light color under the dash may pay off later. With black carpet and black glass it gets hard to trace wire and do add on stuff later.

Hey Jop,

How much of the Lizard Skin have you used on your car? I was going to order some today but wanted to make sure I was getting enough. Right now Jegs has one gallon of the black ceramic insulation, the spray gun, and 2 cans of the top coat. Would that be enough to do the hot rod?



Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TDSapp

Hey Jop,

How much of the Lizard Skin have you used on your car? I was going to order some today but wanted to make sure I was getting enough. Right now Jegs has one gallon of the black ceramic insulation, the spray gun, and 2 cans of the top coat. Would that be enough to do the hot rod?



Tim

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Really depends on what you plan on covering. I know some have used it on the aluminum as well as under the body itself. I have used one gallon to cover one entire side of all of the floor pans, fire wall, etc.. I will probably end up buying one more gallon. I plan on covering the inside of the cab with the heat and sound shield kit from FFR. I suggest it though...you can really tell the difference.

HTH

It's been a couple weeks since last updating...I may have mentioned that when the AOD Transmission was shipped it showed up in a box (that was crushed) with a sticker that read "DO NOT STACK", needless to say I rejected it as transmission fluid was leaking all over my driveway (had to be just from the fluid shipped, but I wasn't taking any chances). Well this last week the company that I bought the transmission from made good on it, reshipped in a (crated) box, must better condition and all is good (at least as good as I can tell until install).Attachment 73164Attachment 73165

I spent the better part of last weekend splicing the wires on the Unisteer unit since I decided to mount inside the cockpit. I cut the required lines, matched up the wire gauge and soldered and heat shrinked the splices. I also went ahead and added the lines to the front wire harness looms...Attachment 73166

I also went ahead and mounted the tank floor pan. I used some high temp rtv sealant and then pop riveted the floor in. I am one of the one's that have decided to go with the stock FFR fuel tank (only time will tell whether that was a good decision or not). I have also decided to mount the battery in the trunk...Attachment 73167Attachment 73168

I temporarily installed the trunk panels to get an idea on the battery and installed the tank vent, fuel pick-up, sending unit & filler neck (temporarily, but more on that in a minute)...Attachment 73169Attachment 73170

So I purchased the 302 from Engine Factory with the Holley Sniper EFI Kit installed. EF sent the kit with 3/8" Flex EFI Fuel Line (and strongly suggested that I not downsize from 3/8"). So the FFR pick-up has a 3/8" steel Dorman connection out and 1/4" steel Dorman connection return. I am having to go to Breeze for fittings that allow me to make the required connections or I can drill into the tank for the return and use a -6 AN fitting to 3/8" barb. I'm not so sure I want to drill into the tank, but at least I now have options thanks to Mark at Breeze. He suggested either way drilling the tube pressings open to allow for the maximum amount of flow and return. If I decide to drill the tank and not use the steel return all together he said to just crimp the line down and bend it over 90 degrees...I am still deciding how I will move forward on that...Attachment 73171

So I did move on to running the 3/8" line (pending my decision on how to terminate), I also created a "hillbilly" fuel pump rail just to make mounting the pre & post filters and the pump a little easier...Attachment 73197Attachment 73198Attachment 73199

Hope to clean and organize the shop a little tomorrow morning then it's on to attaching the torque converter to the AOD transmission and the to the engine. I hope to be dropping the engine in later this month:eek:

A return line should dump the fuel at the bottom of the tank, just like a suction tube for the fuel pump. Dumping fuel out at the top creates foaming.

Wanted a way to move the engine around the shop without having to hook up the lift just yet. I am sure most of you have heard of a rolling chassis...this is a rolling engine!
Attachment 73200
Say what you want about the "Horror Fright Tool Store", these $7 rolling dollies have saved my tail countless times during this build so far.

So it was a real pain getting the engine off the pallet it was shipped on and on to the floor. At first, I thought I would just use the engine lift to crank it up, unbolt from the pallet and sit it down. Nope...not that easy. The pallet was wider than the V base on the lift so I couldn't get far enough in to lift it straight up and off the pallet. So I ended up using the car lift (it explicitly states not to use it for lifting engines;))...it worked great! I just lifted it enough to take the weight off the pallet. I was then able to use the lift to move it to a more open area...
Attachment 73412
The trans wasn't so bad. I was able just to lift it up and move it near the engine for fit up...
Attachment 73413
So then as I started getting ready to install the torque converter into the bellhousing, I noticed I didn't have any hardware to mount the trans to the block, or flange nuts for attaching the converter to the flexplate or a TV cable. After a call to Engine Factory they took care of things, but said it would be a week or two as it would all be coming out of Florida from Monster and they were on Hurricane watch. I wanted to try and get the trans mated to the block this weekend, so my impatience prevailed. I called Ford and picked up the flange nuts for the converter and then went by the local Fastenal for the 7/16-14 x 2-1/4" bolts that mount the bell housing to the block.
I then installed the torque converter and confirmed the spacing to the studs as the instructions stated...
Attachment 73417Attachment 73418Attachment 73419
I also went ahead and attached the trans to the block, this took a little more patience than I thought I had, but I persevered and in the end won out (we'll see)...Attachment 73426

Siri is suppose to remind me in the morning to install the flange nuts on the converter. Then tomorrow I am going to remove the lower firewall and reinstall with some sealant and also go back and lock tight my steering linkages as they have just been hand tightened so far.

If you get the $299 harbor fake coupon, a motorcycle lift works great for "dressing" the engine and tranny. You do need the wide base engine hoist or alternate hoist though. It also makes a great variable height work bench.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by erlihemi

If you get the $299 harbor fake coupon, a motorcycle lift works great for "dressing" the engine and tranny. You do need the wide base engine hoist or alternate hoist though. It also makes a great variable height work bench.

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I don't know EH, I might have reached the point of deminishing returns on tooling from HF. I noticed as I was using my 2 ton engine lift purchased from there to lift the trans last night that it kept bleeding down. I'll doublecheck today but it maybe headed back so I can reach a little deeper in my pocket for something more reliable!

Jamie, I wanted to mention one thing that bit me, that is mating the transmission to the engine. You have to make sure the two mated together with ease or a clunk when you pushed them together. If the two surfaces had to be drawn together under pressure you will find the engine is locked. This is due to the torque converter not fully inserted into the trans. pump.
If it is locked just de-mate the engine from the trans. and spin the converter with pressure on it until moves in about another 1/2 inch or so. Don't ask how I know this! Your progress looks good!

Thanks Don and you are correct! Luckily Monster did a good job of preparing me for that exact event. I was also able to move the torque coverter freely which was a good sign.

Thanks again!

I have been waiting on the TV Cable for the transmission so I can install before dropping engine/tran into the chassis. Unfortunately Monster is out of south Florida and has been without electricity since Irma, but has still managed to promise the cable delivery this week. As you all know though, there is always plenty of other areas to work on, so I tried get the AC and Heater lines to the firewall bulkhead mocked up. I say mocked up because who knew it was going to be so difficult to find a shop to crimp the AC lines. I called (6) AC repair shops yesterday and (3) auto parts stores with no luck. I did finally talk to someone that can do them and will try to get it to them later this week.

Any local builders going to the Goodguys Show at TMS this coming weekend?

Attachment 74095Attachment 74096Attachment 74097Attachment 74098Attachment 74099

I was going to start working on the grill/rad/condenser build up next...have most found the FFR trans cooler to be sufficient or have you had to integrate additional cooling for the trans?

Thanks

Hey Jamie I got tired of running around and paying people 20 bucks a crimp. I bought a crimper made by Mastercool. Cost $130 and I have not charged the system yet, but it was real easy to use and
I could put twists in the hose for fit purposes. Bought from ToolTopia no shipping cost or tax. Still not sure how well the crimps hold will let you know...

BTW I will be going to the Key to Hills Rod Run in Boerne Tx, October 14th. Was hoping to take the 33 ready but doesn't look like it will be ready in time. Should be a lot of cool rods there.

JOP,

I am going to Good Guys to check everything out and to crawl around the swap meet. I plan to be there most of the day.