Oooooh.... it's so pretty, can't wait to start it, can't wait to start it. I feel like a little kid :rolleyes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1505358523
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Oooooh.... it's so pretty, can't wait to start it, can't wait to start it. I feel like a little kid :rolleyes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1505358523
Very clever! Did you put a magnet anywhere else to sweep up debris?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobby Racer
I did not put the magnet back in. There was no place to secure it and I did not want it floating around. As its a track car, I drain the fluid regularly and should notice any bits floating about.Quote:
Originally Posted by turbomacncheese
How did you plug/ vent the heads, I only see one coolant discharge?
I see the expansion tank on the driver's side. I had a lot of pain venting both heads.
did you block off any of the water lines? looks like you looped the heater hose? also what about the smog stuff what did you do there? thanks
In the pic above the head discharge on the passenger side is hidden below one of the frame braces. You can see it clearly in the pic below.Quote:
Originally Posted by craigfree
Attachment 73695
There a a lot of good pics of the coolant tubes in this post.
I blocked off the lines going to and from the throttle body. They are only needed to heat the intake charge during cold weather. I also blocked the line going to the factory oil / water sandwich plate cooler (I removed that cooler completely). I then connected the return port from the oil / water cooler to the return port on the bottom of the expansion tank (suction side).Quote:
Originally Posted by Samiam1017
Initially I removed and plugged the heater hose lines. I then had to put them back and loop them when I discovered that they are needed for the thermostat to work correctly. There needs to be a hot coolant return path behind the thermostat so it senses the hot coolant and opens!Quote:
Originally Posted by Samiam1017
I removed the all the smog stuff, EGR valve, drain valve, vapor canister, etc... I plugged the EGR hole in the intake manifold and the heads with block off plates.Quote:
Originally Posted by Samiam1017
I wish you told me that two months ago, it took me so long to figure that out. I was chasing venting for months.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobby Racer
I only stumbled across it in a nasioc thread I was reading recently and the light went off in my head. Glad I did not toss all that piping!Quote:
Originally Posted by craigfree
I removed the all the smog stuff, EGR valve, drain valve, vapor canister, etc... I plugged the EGR hole in the intake manifold and the heads with block off plates.[/QUOTE]
Are these the parts you eliminated?
Yes, those can be eliminated so long as you block off the openings that are left over.
I hope you get on track soon, I want to see - hear this video!
John what three size masters did you go with for your wilwood pedal assembly?
I went with the following:Quote:
Originally Posted by Samiam1017
3/4" Front
13/16" Rear
3/4" Clutch
But I am using a very different brake setup than most. ;)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1506809722
I finally started welding the header tubes together. I needed to make 6 long "J" sections for my header design. I just got a TIG welder and my skills are less than professional. But the tubes are sealed and I'm pushing forward.
Attachment 74412 Attachment 74411 Attachment 74410
To make the tubes look nicer, I ground the welds flush with the surrounding tubes.
Attachment 74409
The headers are equal length. As you can see in the picture, I offset the tubes by the collector 1.5" compared to the flange plate for better clearance.
Attachment 74408
Next I have to tack weld the collector and flange plate on and do some test fitting.
Awesome!:cool:
Wow this is going to be a work of art!
Thank you. I'm hoping for good functionality, a nice appearance is a bonus.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
I plan to have them ceramic coated with Swain Tech White Lightning when they are done.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...0&d=1507245721
Driver and passenger sides welded up.
Here are some pics installed on the drivers side to check fitment.
Attachment 74749 Attachment 74750 Attachment 74754
Here are some pics installed on the passenger side to check fitment.
Attachment 74748 Attachment 74751 Attachment 74752 Attachment 74753
They look great! The passenger side brake line looks really close to the header. How much space is there between the header and that line?
Yes, I plan on moving the brake lines to the side of the frame rail instead of on top like it is now. Figured I would wait till the headers are done in case I need to make other changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by flynntuna
Looks like really nice solution, looking forward to the finished product.
they look great!
Every time I pull up this thread, I think that intake looks like a scorpion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobby Racer
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1508283821
Finished fabrication, still need to grind and polish the welds.
Here are some pics of the last test fitting.
Attachment 75550 Attachment 75553 Attachment 75549 Attachment 75551 Attachment 75548 Attachment 75552
I have ordered some hump vents for the exhaust exits.
Attachment 75554
Nice work! That's going to sing.
The H6 intake manifold looks like the face-sucker from Aliens.
Can't wait to hear it!!
Purely for racing? Many of the tracks I frequent for track days, have sound limits. Any thoughts about mufflers?
Looking great! If you get a chance, could you get a picture of the headers a little further back, with the perspective of say from the firewall to the axles?
Very Nice work and a unique approach! Are the exhausts going to exit thru the humps? Now that's novel! (You may be breathing fumes though).
I'd love to put an H6 in an R and race it, if only someone could come up with a dry sump solution for the 30 or 36.
Purely racing and no sound limits at the tracks I go to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
Not sure what your looking for? Can you explain it differently, maybe I'm being dense. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by flynntuna
They will exit through the Mechie hump vents, so you won't see the pipes. Talked about this in a previous posts and the consensus is that the R does not suffer from the back flow issue that the S does with its high windshield. I'll know for sure next spring!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator
I'm hoping I don't need a DS. The EZ36 holds 8.2 quarts of oil in stock trim. With my external cooler and Accusump I'm at 10 quarts! I have equipped pressure sensors before and after the Accusump so I can monitor the pressures and know if the oil pickup is sucking air BEFORE the engine loses oil pressure while the Accusump if supplementing the prerssure . I won't know for sure until I can get some data logs and check the oil pressure differentials. I do have a DS system planned out if I see any pressure loss before the Accusump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator
Sorry John, I'm not the best in composing questions. But a picture is worth a thousand words right? The attached picture shows the the perspective I'm asking for. A photo from the firewall to the rear hubs.
I'll try to get one tomorrow.
Are you concerned about the air pressure being greater outside the vents such that it may force the exhaust gases into the engine bay? Or are you going to make some sort of exhaust shroud? Also, wouldn't the exhaust pretty much cook those vents and the fiberglass they're attached to?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobby Racer
I plan to seal off the exhaust to the bottom of the vents with an aluminum box. The air rushing over the vents should draw the exhaust out as well. Not sure about the heat cooking the aluminum, guess I'll find out :DQuote:
Originally Posted by STiPWRD
@flynntuna - I sent the headers off to be ceramic coated, I'll get you the picture you asked for when they return.Quote:
Originally Posted by flynntuna
No hurry John, quick question though. What size turnbuckle did you use for your altenator?
I used an aluminum swedged 3/8-24 panhard/radius rod, 4 In.Quote:
Originally Posted by flynntuna
Here is a list of what I used.
Thanks John:)
While my headers are out being ceramic coated I thought I would start working on some of my aero ideas.
One of the problems with the rear wing is that it generally sits behind the rear roll bar and the disturbed air reduces the wing's effectiveness. You can raise the wing above the bar, but that makes the wing sit quite high. I remember a post a while back that suggested creating an ideal airfoil (tear drop shape) around the roll bar to smooth the air flow. This is a strut cover for an ultralite's landing gear. It's the perfect size for our roll bar tubing!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1509062442
If you slit the trailing edge, it will slip over the bar easily. I plan the secure the airfoil to the roll bar using flush mount rivits. Then wrap the airfoil with the same carbon fiber vinyl car wrap I used on the interior panels. That will seal up the slit I made on the trailing edge and presto, a functional fairing that should smooth out the air going back to the wing!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1509062459
What do you think?