haha one step at a time! All on the to-buy list :)Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
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haha one step at a time! All on the to-buy list :)Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
*Sigh*
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2948/...140f74b9_c.jpg
What's everyone's solution for this issue? Or is this a result of the engine I'm using/motor mounts? I was thinking I'll make a bracket that sits on top of both the reservoir and the engine, like a little bridge. That should keep it at about the same height(above the turbo) and allow it to bolt on without getting in the way.
Or am I overthinking this?
Craig (Mechie3) is selling a bracket to solve this issue. Essentially what you are talking about - a little bridge to push the reservoir off to the side. I haven't bought it (yet) but did see it in person and it appears to be an effective and simple solution.
Mechie3 solution is very clean.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
I have a radiator hose the goes to the back of the car through the space where the tank was. So I mounted it on top the bar.
Attachment 34255
Oh, and I overthink everything, my engineering nature.
Bob
Get Mechie3's bracket like many of us have done. And, you'll be helping one of the most helpful 818 builders.
Awesome! I knew Craig would have something. Gives me an excuse to get a few more of his parts...and a t-shirt :)
He used to be a regular at the autocrosses I now attend, so I've heard a ton of good things about him and his meticulous work. Can't wait to get some 818 parts from such a respected guy.
Craig is missed at those events in CNY
Some 818 work this weekend, and a bunch of truck work! Since it was so close to having no rust, we decided to repaint the hood to eliminate the very little rust that was on the car. Sanded it down nearly to bare metal, primed, and painted. This after primer coat #2 of 3:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5599/...3c2197ff_c.jpg
Also, DA polished the rest of the truck. Took some serious slime off of it. DA polishers amaze me every time. (you can see a little "before" of the hood in this shot... lots of little chips and rust spots forming)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3934/...fab7af7b_c.jpg
So, while running brake lines, I realized that if I followed the manual, my aluminum panels wouldn't sit flush with the frame. Here is where I'm talking about:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5613/...0cc7f9be_c.jpg
Instead, I was considering running them inside the passenger compartment, against the outside wall, like below. Anyone see any issues with that? Am I just missing another obvious solution?
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3955/...e922703b_c.jpg
I'd mock up your interior panels and maybe even do their final install before you decide on placement of the brake lines, clutch lines, and coolant pipes. You'll be kicking yourself at the amount of work you've caused yourself if you do it the other way round.
Aren't the 'interior panels' for the walls of the R on the exterior? Mine definitely don't fit on the inside. That was a large part of the reason for considering running the lines inside.
On newer ship dates the R came with exterior side panels that cover most of the cage, older versions did not have this and came with some of the S interior panles. I used the external panels on the inside and used anti-intrusion panels on outside.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
The interior panels I was supplied don't fit anywhere well. With my R build I ended up fabbing a few panels and altering others. Thus my suggestion that you sort the panels first, then route the lines.
Now I need to see a picture of this new panel I didn't get.
Yup! I am however using the exterior on the exterior, as far as I can see now. And no panels for the inside. Unless there's a good reason, I just see it as extra effort and extra weight. Plus, the visible frame is badass if you ask me ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasmus
Here it is! It fits so nicely on the outside that I can't imagine using anything else.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/...d9697a30_c.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/...71d7ff0b_c.jpg
Even has a nice little spot for the lower rear and upper right corners to fit in.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5600/...ca8b28f5_c.jpg
FWIW- we (my company makes auto-aluminum) always stencils on the non-prime side of the aluminum. Since the fiberglass will cover the outside, I put the prime (non-stenciled) side facing in, where a driver/passenger would see it (since the driver and passenger exterior metal are mirrored). I'm doing this wherever is possible with the supplied panels.
You lucky *******. That panel would have made my life so easy.
When did your kit ship? I wonder how recent it was that this piece was added. Seems they make the kit "better" as time goes on, understandably so. Hopefully this doesn't end up jacking the price up too much.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasmus
Ran my rear brake lines last night, despite everyone's warnings (I'm sure I'll come to regret that...). Ran them on the inside of the frame instead of the outside. Excited how they turned out. Used the little rubber clamps to prevent them from rattling.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/...c31b6886_c.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3935/...8884b676_c.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5611/...d270ae0d_c.jpg
Date on the Red Card that was taped to my chassis: February 8th, 2014Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
My build date was 3/12/14, and I got the panels
So, here is my idea for seat mounting. Kirkey brackets for my Kirkey seat with these pieces of 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes. Thoughts?
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2946/...4c936d08_c.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3947/...74770fb6_c.jpg
Edit: I should say that I measured the height, and about 1.65" from the floor is great for steering wheel position, fine for visibility, and seems to keep the shoulders at ~15*. The center harness piece clears the frame. Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that.
"Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that."
Have you considered fastening the steel pieces to the floor? :eek:
" 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes"Quote:
Originally Posted by AZPete
;)
That's essentially what I did for mounting my seats. Doesn't mean it's the right way, but it's what I did.
Looks good, I think I'll do the same. My seat brackets only rest on the X frame on the floor in the back and at the middle, the front of the brackets are unsupported. This looks like a simple way to support the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
The NASA CCRs only require 1/8" steel or 1/4" aluminum. He's perfectly within that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
For my son and I, we need the seat as low as possible to keep our heads below the roll bar. We have 4 5/16" rivnuts in the "X" bars and 4 matching holes in the bottom of the Kirkey seat to match. Our seat is also bolted similarly to the top square tube in the rear fire wall. No seat brackets at all, Rasmus would be proud.
Bob
How/where are you bolting your harness lap belts?
I don't have a picture right now. I'll post one this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by tmoretta
Bob
I used the Kirkey brackets as well. I was able to line up the mounting holes on the inboard brackets with the cross braces in the frame. Then I cut the tops off the square tubing and welded the flat stock in flush to keep things as low as possible. I only had to do that on the outboard bracket to get good support. Rick
Wow, that sounds like a great idea. Any pics, Rick?Quote:
Originally Posted by drdracing
Thanks for the replies, all. I think I'm sticking with it as-is for now. Going to run some bolts (4 per bracket) through the frame, and then separately bolt the brackets to the 2" wide steel. This will give me a little flexibility in terms of forward/backward mounting, I think. What's the ideal seat angle? Anyone have an idea? or is it purely a preference thing?
Here it is! I actually don't -love- the angle it's at; I think I'll move it back a hair still. I took some pics of belt angles and such but they're all blurry. Seems like it's ~10-12* down on the shoulders, and nothing is hitting the seat. What do you guys check for the seat being in the right position? Pedals and wheel feel comfy (I did the wrist test on the wheel and it's perfect), I can see, and the harness clears/is at a decent angle. Anything else I'm missing?
Mocked up (not yet tightened down; that cleaned up the non-straight part):
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3934/...d561cfe6_c.jpg
And installed!
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/...9ce7c8b4_c.jpg
Hate to backtrack but if you use the side panels on the outside isn't there a large space between the firewall and the outside panel? Mine came with those outside panels but no inside so I cut them up and made the inside panels. Also my seat mountsAttachment 34771Attachment 34772Attachment 34773Attachment 34774
I think I'll have to be a little farther along(rear firewall installed) before I figure out exactly what that needs. Is that the only panel you're planning to run there? Those seat brackets look good, and light.Quote:
Originally Posted by D Clary
Did some brake plumbing. They're in good spots, I think. Used a rivnut to install the Willwood proportioner (with some McMaster 1/4's I had lying around). The ends do extend a little bit past the brackets. Is that a problem?
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/...73c3f162_c.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/...dcf1232c_c.jpg
I don't really plan any side by side racing, mostly auto x and hill climb so an Intrusion panel is not high on my list. If the situation changes I'll add a panel on the outside.
Good to know. I figured that was the general "rule" with paneling.Quote:
Originally Posted by D Clary
I was thinking of doing a hybrid inside/outside panel, much like Rasmus (yet another idea I'm hijacking from him....just like the Reddit karma).
Tons of work done this weekend. Transmission installed and coolant lines are underway. Brakes got some progress, too. Coolant line question for all you R guys with later build-dates- How are you running the lines through the front of the aluminum siding if you have the solid aluminum wall? Shown in my second picture below.
Here's some pics:
South Bend stage 1 clutch and ACT Streetlight flywheel installed
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/...f6144a2f_z.jpg
Installing the trans
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7526/...654778f3_z.jpg
Andrewtech transmission installed!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7511/...0c16f6c9_z.jpg
Found a home for all my stickers!
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3949/...a4dbc38e_z.jpg
Great progress!
I put anti-intrusion panels on the side and used the aluminum on the inside but I ran the cooling pipes down the side and used a 2.5" hole saw to cut through the 1/8 steel panel and also the aluminum on the inside and will also run the dead pedal to cover up the pipe so no one gets their foot caught and there will be some protection from a burst hose
Attachment 35597
So, I was in Brazil for work recently and didn't get a whole lot done. Did brake stuff this weekend and ran into a little problem :(
http://i.imgur.com/j7LUuyK.jpg
So close, yet so far away. What does everyone recommend for this? Remounting the hard line bracket? Cutting up a "medium length" brake line and reflaring myself? Brakes look good otherwise.
http://i.imgur.com/iib2CLg.jpg