Papa's MKIV Roadster Build - #9115 (Post Grad) - One million + views!!!

I started this topic in a separate thread, but felt I wanted to include the information in my build thread as well. I installed the charging port today. It's in the trunk floor near the latch bar. Pretty simple to do except for one little gotcha that made me have to do a bit of extra work. The polarity was reversed (port wired backwards). Thankfully, my charger identified the issue and I was able to correct it. When I tested the port, sure enough I was getting -0.55 on the multimeter with the red and black wires tested as indicated. Reversing the two proceed a 0.55 reading. So, after reversing the wiring, all was good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1588389172

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1588389181

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1588389190

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1588389199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1588389209

I used stainless hardware instead of the stuff that came with the port. I also swapped out the 30 amp fuse on the holder with a 7.5 amp fuse to match what Optima uses in its accessories.

I noticed a rattle sound the other day as I was doing some short data logging runs as I dial in my Sniper's tune. Turns out the noise was coming from my fuel tank. A quick snugging up of the strap hanger bolts and the rattle is gone. Sorting out all the little things after the build is done is almost as much work as the build itself, but the car just keeps getting better.

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Originally Posted by Papa

I noticed a rattle sound the other day as I was doing some short data logging runs as I dial in my Sniper's tune. Turns out the noise was coming from my fuel tank. A quick snugging up of the strap hanger bolts and the rattle is gone. Sorting out all the little things after the build is done is almost as much work as the build itself, but the car just keeps getting better.

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I second that! I’m very happily continuing little corrections/improvements even though the car was “done” last fall. BTW, I got those Dark Water door sills installed without a lot of modification to the sills. I did need to work the fiberglass a bit though, not too bad.

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Not enough of an issue to be necessary Dave. I mostly commented just to make things easier for those who are following your well documented build thread.

Cheers,
Jeff

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I was researching for some info and this is a good informative supprot and direction for everyone.

Jeff- thanks for the direction

Dave.-You have a good looking car, I get soe good ideas off your post, as most post on this forum.

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Originally Posted by Kmcallahan

I was researching for some info and this is a good informative supprot and direction for everyone.

Jeff- thanks for the direction

Dave.-You have a good looking car, I get soe good ideas off your post, as most post on this forum.

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Thanks for the kind words. I love these types of posts as they validate why I spent so much time documenting my build. I really did want it to be a tool for those that followed.

Dave

I had a chance to drive the car some yesterday and it's getting dialed in nicely. However, it was the first time I'd driven it since it was finished while wearing shorts. I thought chestnuts roasting on an open fire was a Christmas time thing!!! I need to find out where the hot air is getting in and fix that. I suspect the bulb seal along the top of the firewall or somewhere along the top of the foot box.

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Originally Posted by Papa

I had a chance to drive the car some yesterday and it's getting dialed in nicely. However, it was the first time I'd driven it since it was finished while wearing shorts. I thought chestnuts roasting on an open fire was a Christmas time thing!!! I need to find out where the hot air is getting in and fix that. I suspect the bulb seal along the top of the firewall or somewhere along the top of the foot box.

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Ha! That's funny - i was noticing the exact same thing on my car last weekend, as I was driving in shorts, too!

In the true spirit of the project never being done, my lovely wife actually suggested my latest update. She didn't like the 12v power point I installed that used a plug in adapter to charge a USB device. The plug simply didn't fit the receptacle well and the charging would fail. So, with a garage full of tools and time on my hands, I fabricated a new charging and power setup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1592011026

The USB ports are switched and also display the voltage. The power point will accommodate my GPS power cord/plug. This will get mounted right were the passenger foot box meets the transmission tunnel wall. It'll get mounted into the 2x2 tube from the bottom using rivnuts.

The new "power center" is in. I made a couple of last-minute changes to my planned install, but it is in and functioning. I flipped the l-brackets to the rear of the main plate

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1592166788

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1592166795

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1592167479

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1592167485

I was concerned about the location being an issue with passenger's legs, but it is far enough to the left that I can comfortably enter and exit the car without any part of my leg coming close to the bracket. I was originally going to use rivnuts to mount the setup to the frame, but opted to use aluminum 3/6" rivets instead. I figured that the rivets would easily break away in the event of an accident if the passenger's knee were to hit it. Again, it really isn't close to the passenger's legs.

I put a dual port in the same location. We use a retractable power cord there too. I like the voltage read out, you’ll know at a glance if the car needs charging.

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

I put a dual port in the same location. We use a retractable power cord there too. I like the voltage read out, you’ll know at a glance if the car needs charging.

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Yep -- The charger was plugged in when I took the picture, which explains the 13.9v reading.

I wondered if it was running or something.

I bought a mini fire extinguisher and a Drake mounting bracket while I was building the car and never got around to mounting it until today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1593204238

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1593204230

One more quick install to show for today. After my first Cobra club event last week and seeing the results of "snake bites" on the calves of more than one person, I decided (wife encouraged me) to get a set of heat shields for the side pipes. Here is what I (she) picked.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1593211444

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1593211422

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1593211433

Nice! Where’d you find that? Now if somehow the sun heats the shields up you could be branded with an actual snakehead image on your calf.:cool:

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

Nice! Where’d you find that? Now if somehow the sun heats the shields up you could be branded with an actual snakehead image on your calf.:cool:

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I got them here: https://steelshields.com/cobra

Dave

Man, that cockpit looks great! You've done such a nice job. Coincidentally, I just ordered a fire extinguisher yesterday as i thought it wouldn't be a bad idea, too.

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Originally Posted by Papa

I had a chance to drive the car some yesterday and it's getting dialed in nicely. However, it was the first time I'd driven it since it was finished while wearing shorts. I thought chestnuts roasting on an open fire was a Christmas time thing!!! I need to find out where the hot air is getting in and fix that. I suspect the bulb seal along the top of the firewall or somewhere along the top of the foot box.

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Problem solved! There was a small gap of about 2-1/2" between where the foam on the side of the driver's footbox ended and where the gap closed up at the top of the foot box. Added some more foam and the boys are no longer getting roasted!

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Really Dave, don't get caught up on this because the body position will ultimately change. Unless you are going to be driving in gelcoat (which I do not believe is the case) and need to stop the draft through that gap those panels do not get installed until after the body is painted and secured permanently. When they are put in place they are brought to the body, not the other way around.

Jeff

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Dave,
Thanks for starting this post. I am at this point on the interior. I will put off this body is finally on after paint.

Jeff,
Thanks for the reply to Dave. This is why I like this forum so much.

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Originally Posted by Papa

Today I tackled the rest of the trunk carpeting. It's not perfect, but it turned out good enough that I'm going to go with it. I wasn't sure about carpeting the access covers, but after trying it on the battery cover I think I'll go ahead and do the other two for the fuel tank as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1537044534

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1537044521

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1537044508

As much as I hate doing upholstery work, I also put a new seat bottom cover on my driver's seat in my 2007 F250. The leather was still in great shape, but the vinyl side panel was starting to crack, so I ordered a replacement cover and spent two hours removing the seat from the truck, disassembling the seat (power, heated, lumbar), and replacing the cover. In the process, I shaved a portion of one of my fingers on the razor-sharp metal seat frame. I'm relaxing the rest of the weekend!

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Did you do any kind of protective spray on the inside of your foot boxes or trunk before you lined them with insulation and finally carpet?

Chilly

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Originally Posted by Chilly

Did you do any kind of protective spray on the inside of your foot boxes or trunk before you lined them with insulation and finally carpet?

Chilly

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No. I cleaned the aluminum with lacquer thinner before applying the ThermoTec in the cockpit. I didn't do any insulation in the trunk, just the carpet on the bare aluminum.

Dave

Dave, I thought I had asked this question earlier today, but here goes again. I know I saw the picture of when you carpeted your trunk, but I just realized that it seems to be fairly low pile, and that is what I'm after. What product did you use? Was it reasonably easy to work with, or not? Thanks.

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Originally Posted by EZ$

Dave, I thought I had asked this question earlier today, but here goes again. I know I saw the picture of when you carpeted your trunk, but I just realized that it seems to be fairly low pile, and that is what I'm after. What product did you use? Was it reasonably easy to work with, or not? Thanks.

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Rick,

I used a trunk liner fabric that is often used to cover speaker enclosures. The specific product I used isn't available from the place I bought it any more, but they have similar fabric here in a couple of different color options:

https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/...rt_direction=1

I've also used this in other projects and it's the same stuff:

https://www.parts-express.com/speake...EaApstEALw_wcB

It's very easy to work with and can be molded around the frame tubes, etc.

Dave

Dave, I'm going to guess that 5 yds. of product is probably more than I would need for the trunk, correct? Do the edges want to fray when you cut it, or is it pretty stable when cut? Sorry for all the questions. The way you got the battery box cover wrapped looks awesome. Exactly what I'd like to end up with. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by EZ$

Dave, I'm going to guess that 5 yds. of product is probably more than I would need for the trunk, correct? Do the edges want to fray when you cut it, or is it pretty stable when cut? Sorry for all the questions. The way you got the battery box cover wrapped looks awesome. Exactly what I'd like to end up with. Thanks.

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You only need about 2-3 yards to do the trunk depending on if you are doing the rear cockpit wall (I didn't). The ends do not fray at all with this fabric. On the battery box and other access panels, I just made the cut about 1/2" wider than the panel on all sides and then rolled it over and pie cut the corners. I used 3M-77 spray for the adhesive. This is after covering all the panels and using black screws to finish it off:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1537567921

Dave

Awesome, thanks so much for the info Dave!

Can someone tell me the distance the two bulkheads on the body buck?

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Originally Posted by ggunter

Can someone tell me the distance the two bulkheads on the body buck?

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It looks like 96” but look in the back of the assembly manual, you’ll find a diagram of the buck there.

It's 96" - standard 2x4s and a sheet of plywood. Don't over think the body buck.

Sorry Dave, should have left that one to you, but I didn't think you were around. Besides, how else are you going to get to a million views?:eek:

BTW, I just saw your video of the Cruise to Buena Vista, I enjoyed it!

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

Sorry Dave, should have left that one to you, but I didn't think you were around. Besides, how else are you going to get to a million views?:eek:

BTW, I just saw your video of the Cruise to Buena Vista, I enjoyed it!

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No sweat, Bradley. We need to get together before winter and go for a drive.

Dave

Hello Papa

A late congratulations on a fantastic build! I just finished reading your build cover to cover. I echo the sentiments of many others in saying great pictures and great documentation! I think I have at least 15 tips written down from your build I will be considering/reviewing as my build gets underway this Fall. Your time investment into the folks here in the F5 forum is so appreciated. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and lesson learned, and leaving behind a fantastic resource for Noobs like me.

One question I have is regarding your 18" wheel swap. I didn't realize (pardon my ignorance) the 18" wheels were much (any?) different in width, and accept the same 245 series (front) and 315 series (rear) tires. But I read comments in your build thread about the deeper dish, and better fill-out of the rear wheel wells. Is it primarily a difference in wheel offset that gives it the different appearance? Are you running 245 front and 315 rear?

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

Hello Papa

A late congratulations on a fantastic build! I just finished reading your build cover to cover. I echo the sentiments of many others in saying great pictures and great documentation! I think I have at least 15 tips written down from your build I will be considering/reviewing as my build gets underway this Fall. Your time investment into the folks here in the F5 forum is so appreciated. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and lesson learned, and leaving behind a fantastic resource for Noobs like me.

One question I have is regarding your 18" wheel swap. I didn't realize (pardon my ignorance) the 18" wheels were much (any?) different in width, and accept the same 245 series (front) and 315 series (rear) tires. But I read comments in your build thread about the deeper dish, and better fill-out of the rear wheel wells. Is it primarily a difference in wheel offset that gives it the different appearance? Are you running 245 front and 315 rear?

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Thanks for the kind words and I love to hear how my experience has helped others. On the wheels, the fronts are identical in width for the 17 and 18" sets at 9" wide with a 6" backspace. The rears are where the differences are. The 17" is 10.5" wide with a 6.7" backspace and the 18" is 11" wide with a 6.46" backspace. That pushes the rear wheel out a bit more than 3/4" (0.84" to be exact) further on the 18" vs. the 17".

Here is where the 17" sat:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1597956258

Here is where the 18" sits:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1597956250

Yes, I'm running a 245 front and 315 rear.

Thanks for the good details on the differences. First time I’ve seen the actual difference on a car. Very helpful! At some point I will need to decide which size to buy. I imagine the 17” will provide a slightly softer ride given the additional height of the sidewall profile. The trade off being slightly inside the rear fender edge.

Papa, fantastic build thread, thank you so much for your detailed descriptions, was a great read as I prep for my own adventure!

Question, can you tell me more about the top? Living in the PNW I feel like the top might be a good choice to broaden my drive days... How does it connect? What modifications did you need to do for the connections? Does it have windows? How was the heat with your seat heaters and top? (I'm trying to get away without installing a heater in my build, so hoping top + seat heaters is enough).

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by BeePea

Papa, fantastic build thread, thank you so much for your detailed descriptions, was a great read as I prep for my own adventure!

Question, can you tell me more about the top? Living in the PNW I feel like the top might be a good choice to broaden my drive days... How does it connect? What modifications did you need to do for the connections? Does it have windows? How was the heat with your seat heaters and top? (I'm trying to get away without installing a heater in my build, so hoping top + seat heaters is enough).

Thanks!

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Thanks for the comments. The premium top is very well made and fits beautifully. There is a good bit of information on the top here:

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/1519...ible-soft-top/

The only modifications to the car are two post mounting bushings and the angle of the windshield and a couple of snaps on the windshield frame. I still haven't installed the side windows as they are a bit cumbersome to use and I haven't needed them. The seat heaters and top were good with a leather jacket, gloves, and a stocking cap to allow me to drive in 20 degree temps without getting cold. Your biggest issue in your climate will be fogged windows, and a heater would be something I'd really think about doing in your area.

Dave

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Originally Posted by Papa

Thanks for the comments. The premium top is very well made and fits beautifully. There is a good bit of information on the top here:

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/1519...ible-soft-top/

The only modifications to the car are two post mounting bushings and the angle of the windshield and a couple of snaps on the windshield frame. I still haven't installed the side windows as they are a bit cumbersome to use and I haven't needed them. The seat heaters and top were good with a leather jacket, gloves, and a stocking cap to allow me to drive in 20 degree temps without getting cold. Your biggest issue in your climate will be fogged windows, and a heater would be something I'd really think about doing in your area.

Dave

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Thanks for the link. The cost of the roof makes me re-consider the heater. Is it possible to adjust the windshield angle later if I decide I want the top?

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Originally Posted by BeePea

Thanks for the link. The cost of the roof makes me re-consider the heater. Is it possible to adjust the windshield angle later if I decide I want the top?

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You certainly can adjust the angle at any time after the car is finished, but if you use that 27" measurement mentioned in the install video when you install your windshield, you'll be all set if you want to add the top down the road. Also, Whitby sells a top that is a lot less expensive that you can see plenty of pictures of in GTBradley's build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...lumbar-support

https://www.whitbymotorcars.com/product/soft-top/

The Whitby top requires a bit more modification of the car for attachment, so just be aware that the tops install completely differently. Bradley covers it in detail in his thread.

Dave

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Originally Posted by Papa

You certainly can adjust the angle at any time after the car is finished, but if you use that 27" measurement mentioned in the install video when you install your windshield, you'll be all set if you want to add the top down the road. Also, Whitby sells a top that is a lot less expensive that you can see plenty of pictures of in GTBradley's build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...lumbar-support

https://www.whitbymotorcars.com/product/soft-top/

The Whitby top requires a bit more modification of the car for attachment, so just be aware that the tops install completely differently. Bradley covers it in detail in his thread.

Dave

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Excellent, thank you! Since I finished reading your build thread, time to jump over to a new one, and it sounds like you picked the perfect one out for me!

Many thanks to Dave (Mad Dog) for highlighting my car on Factory Five's web site!

https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-ne...-mk4-roadster/

Thanks, Dave!