Yes, the standard kit supplied Coupe carpet kit. I've used it on all my builds. Sometimes doesn't get a lot of love, but I've found it works fine. I always use floor mats and a pad by the accelerator. Will wear in the those areas but everywhere else seems to hold up fine. I tried a recommended alternative (Bentley) for one of my builds. But ended up putting it in the trunk as still used the kit carpet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
Hola Paul,
I'm not good at these posts and maybe I shouldn't have put this post here but thought it might be close.
I've completed my Daytona. My builder said it was easy. All I had to do was follow edwardb's posts and it all came out fine.
Now I am fine tuning the setup for the track. I just did my first day with a professional driver in the left seat. He is a brave man to take out an unknown quantity and try and make it work on a race track, ECR (Eagles Canyon Raceway ten miles away).
My car had terrible oversteer. I have installed the FFR front and rear sway bars. My drive buddy says we need to loosen up the back and tighten up the front. After our session we put the car on the lift and tried to move the rear sway bar back a couple notches but the supplied rod ends don't appear to be adjustable to reach. The front sway bar presently also does not appear to be vertical and the rod ends are also slanted a bit. The spacer appears to be too big.
I know you don't track your car but your familiarity with all things Daytona I thought you might give me some direction on who to ask for set up issues with the sway bars.
I did get a trophy in the car show at SVRA weekend at ECR thanks to your input.
Best,
Lou Garvin
Hello Lou. Congrats on your completed Coupe and award. Glad my build thread may have been of some use. You're right, I don't track my Coupe. Only on the street and the standard Factory Five sway bar setup isn't limiting me at all. (Or at least if it is, I don't know it. :p) I can't give you any specific recommendations. I'd suggest you make a new post describing your situation. There are others on here with track experience and I'm sure could offer some advice. Good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lougarvin
Lots of Autocross and track days between Dave and myself and we will both tell you to ditch the rear bar.
Paul good morning I am looking into rims for the car more than likely going with Forgstar F14 I have been looking to do 18 inch front and 19 inch rear I see that you went 18 inch all the way around and your car sits nice does the 18 fill the rear wheel well and I believe you also used wheel spacers on the rear any reason for the spacers you you just wanted to push the wheel to the outside to look better
I have Factory Five rims. They don't offer 19's. So yes, 18's all around. The rear spacers are to push the wheels out into the openings for better appearance as you describe. The Coupe uses the same rear suspension setup(s) as the Roadster but the body is wider.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
Paul do you remember if you got the oil filter new threaded adapter piece once you remove the oil cooler piece
When you remove the oil cooler, the long adapter must be replaced with a Ford AL3Z-6890-A Oil filter adapter (short). Got mine from Tasca Parts. But available from multiple sources.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...sert-al3z6890a
Thanks Paul your an ace
Hello Paul,
Many thanks for your response and suggestion to figure out these sway bars and how to adjust them. It's a work in progress and I'm taking my time.
Best regards,
Lou
Hey Paul, got another question for you. I have been reading a thread where a Gen 3 Coupe owner is struggling with oversteer on his car newly finished car at the track. He is running both front and rear sway bars and struggling to come up with a configuration that is not tail happy. What did you do on you build, no bars, front only, or both? I checked the options box for both front and rear sway bars with the rear being the 2015 and up IRS. I have time to finalize my kit order, but it would sure be nice to eliminate the rear bar, or both, if they are truly unnecessary on a high performance street car.
As always, thanks in advance.
Alan
My Coupe has the Factory Five bars on both front and back. For my driving, 100% street, I can't say I've noticed anything positive or negative about them. The car handles great and I wouldn't change a thing. But I'm a relatively conservative driver and zero track experience. So take that for what it's worth. One comment, and maybe you know this, but the front bars can be mounted after the fact. Easy. The rear requires two brackets that are bolted in as you build up the suspension. Even if you don't install the rear bar initially, you may want to get those brackets and install during the build. Saves taking things apart later.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan_C
Paul getting ready to start wiring the car any advice since you been thru it already do’s and don’t I always like to ask so I don’t make the same mistake seems pretty straight forward and after doing almost 15 different cars this one maybe the easiest
There's no one way to wire these cars. Everyone tends to put their on spin on it. I start each build with an electrical plan identifying the power requirements, fuse/breaker requirements (for circuits outside the Ron Francis harness), wire sizes, etc. I typically mock up the location of all the components first. In this case, including the Coyote specific components as well. Then start laying in the wiring. Because space was so limited behind the dash because of the A/C and the glove box, I significantly dieted the Ron Francis harness, e.g. shortened wires, removed connectors, etc. That's not for everyone though. If in doubt, leave it stock. I also try to think about future maintenance if required. I specifically wired and mounted the gauge cluster so that it could be removed. Which also provides access behind the dash and the components mounted on the tunnel. That's all I can think of at the moment. Lots more words and pictures earlier in this build thread of the wiring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
Thanks Paul I will just get into it and see how it flows
Paul when you replaced the Gen 3 Coyote oil pan did you purchase a new oil pan pickup it looks like you tried to make a pickup yourself I assume maybe they have a new pickup for the Morosso oil pan by now
I was very early in the Gen 3 Coyote timeline. Moroso didn't have a pickup for the Gen 3 so I had to make one. A couple failed attempts as described in the build thread. Then success. Much later Moroso did release a Gen 3 version. The Moroso pan used with the Coyote in these builds is their standard offering part #20570. You'll also need: Part #24577 oil pickup for the Gen 3, part #22738 low warning sensor plug since we don't typically use that sensor with the crate motor, and a BR3Z-6710-A oil pan gasket/windage tray since the Gen 3 has a composite oil pan with integrated gasket/windage tray.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
Note these same part numbers are listed in the Factory Five Gen 3 Coyote installation instructions at: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...ter-rev-1i.pdf.
Paul good morning wondering what color you picked for your car I was thinking of Brandywine Cherry over black for mine of all my builds I don’t think I ever had a red series car, also the factory five window setup is it good enough to hold some of the AC in the car or does it leak alot
Paint color is mentioned a couple times in the build thread including here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post391649Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
The Factory Five window kit seals OK around the perimeter if you take the time with gaskets. The sliding windows aren't wind or water proof. But they are adequate. I don't hear anything from them over the rest of the sound in the car. They definitely help to keep the A/C (and heat) inside. I've only driven the car without them once and don't plan to do that again.
Paul good morning since you seem to be the man with all answers I posted a question yesterday about the clutch safety switch I have two identical switches and brackets that came with the kit I would assume one is for the brakes and the other for the clutch depending on where you attach the wires just let me know your thoughts the reason I ask is the switch doesn’t look like the one you used.
The kit comes with similar mounting brackets and switches for the brake lights and clutch safety. For a Coyote build with the Ford Performance control pack, which I think you're installing (??), you don't use the kit provided clutch safety switch. The Ford Performance control pack includes a different switch and a leg on the harness for it. If you have the Factory Five Coyote installation kit, it comes with mounting brackets for the Ford switch in the Wilwood pedal box. There are differences if you have a clutch cable or hydraulic clutch. But you use the Ford switch and not the kit clutch switch in either case. Both the Ford Performance and Factory Five Coyote installation instructions show the different clutch switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
BTW, feel free to send me PM's with questions. I get plenty of them and happy to answer without adding to my build thread.
Hi Paul,
Do you think that there is enough room in the engine compartment to fit the new Gen 4 with the dual air intake? I hope to order a Type 65 in the next week and want to put in the new Gen 4 Aluminator if I can. I know that the have the Gen 4X that will work. What are your thoughts?
Don M
To be honest, I don't know. I've only seen pictures of the dual intake MK4 and haven't thought about whether it would fit or not. I suspect the answer is something like anything is possible given skill and money. If Erik Treves can put twin turbos in his Coyote powered Coupe, anything is possible. All depends on your plans for the car and how you'll use it. The single intake Gen 4 announced by Ford Performance has very similar specs to the Gen 3 I have in my Coupe. Which has all the performance I want (or need). Ask the folks I gave charity rides to at LCS. If I were building one today, that's what I would do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmac800
Paul did you receive the 02 sensor computer harness in with your original order I don’t see it in mine and I purchased the Coyote build package along with my main kit
The FFR Coyote completion kit only includes mechanical type parts. The O2 sensor harness is part of the Ford Performance control pack. If that's what you're using.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
The HP difference with the dual intake is not significant enough to justify the time spent making it, or not, fit. Consider your headers, exhaust, and selection of air filter will also have a positive affect on the HP produced. I would concentrate there and just buy the single intake crate motor.
Our club (Great Lakes Cobra Club) had a simplified version of a road rally this past weekend (great fun) and during the run the Coupe turned 7,000 miles. It's been a rainy year so far here in SE Michigan and has caused several events to get cancelled. But Saturday was bright and sunny. Warm, but that's what the A/C is for. Everything about the Coupe continues to be perfect. Gen 3 Coyote just starts and runs. Zero codes since its custom tune after installation. We were at the London Cobra Show a few weeks ago and as usual a great event. I did some charity rides and pushed the Coupe as hard as I ever have. Pretty crazy what it's capable of. This is officially its fifth season (hard to believe) although the first season it mostly stayed in the garage because of COVID and our statewide shutdown. When polished up, still looks brand new and I'm constantly accused of not driving it. Have I mentioned how much we like this car?
Note: I tried to change the title since it says 5,000 mile report. But it won't let me. Not sure why. Maybe because of the age of this thread. Oh well...
The cobra group I'm associated with also had a "Fun Run" thru the Adrondack mountainss this past weekend. (300 miles) In it's second year my coupe turned 5000 miles during the run. I fully agree with Paul, this car is fantastic!
Hi Paul, just a note to thank you for this thread, I noted your very early comment regarding the kit upper ball joints and your recommendation to use the Howe Racing 22320S upper ball joints. So, I ordered the Howe parts (including the boots, tie-rod ends and other bits you suggested) and as expected, Summit had them to me within 48 hours. When the Coupe kit arrived today, I discovered exactly the same situation - the kit UBJ's are an interference fit for some reason and the Howe parts screw right in.
So, thanks again for posting all your findings, same for Erik and Michael, lots of great info here!
Jim
Paul on the AC Compressor the wiring connector I assume one wire is power the other ground do you remember which wire off the connector is ground
Sorry, no, I don't remember colors. Yes, one side is power and the other ground. Based on the picture I have, one lead was green and the other black. Good chance they followed standard convention and the black wire is ground. In my thread, I mention powering the two leads to confirm the clutch was working. Have to assume I put the power on green and ground on black. In looking through the build thread, refreshed my memory that I added a connector to those leads vs. the FF instructions to hard wire. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post350347.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
I know you fabed your own, but what pontoon alignment kit did you get to start?
As I recall, my kit came with the cup piece pictured in the above quote, but a much smaller pin (maybe 1/4"?) and no support mechanism other than (apparently) bonding it into the fiberglass. I drilled out the cup for a larger pin made from a 3/8" SS bolt and fabricated the block pictured. It's robust and has held up well to the hundreds of time opening and closing the hood over the past four years of driving. The stock setup might have been fine too. But just struck me as a little fragile.Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsond003
Paul good afternoon did you do the edge bonding on your carpets yourself if so what did you Ed up using or maybe your just to it to an interior shop and had then do it
The carpet edging was done at a local interior shop. It's a standard cloth binding sewn in place. Easy to do with the right sewing machine and not too expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Larrys Garage
Paul - I just fit my rear harness and found the same situation with almost 2' extra on the legs for the sending unit and pump. I am curious, when you modified your harness did you simply cut and splice as needed or did you de-pin/re-pin? Some of these I am inclined to cut out what is not needed, crimp an inline butt connector and heatshrink. It's not my first choice but it can become a bear to find replacement pins for some of the connectors RF uses.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
I rarely if ever di-pin existing connectors or crimp new pins. They're often not easy to get apart without the proper tools and pins and the proper crimper can also be an issue. Probably the only exception to that is Weather Pack connectors which I use extensively mainly for lights but sometimes elsewhere. I have a decent crimper just for that style plus the parts are widely available. So to answer your question, for this location I cut the wires and splice at the shorter locations. For the record, I don't use the butt connectors included in the kit. Just not a fan. But many do and really don't want to debate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
That makes sense. I have two or three different crimpers and have done work with Packard, Delphi, Deutsch and Molex connectors but I hear you, not always easy to get in or out. I use correctly sized uninsulated metal butts that I buy in several sizes. I typically do not solder joints but prefer crimp and heat shrink. I know there are lots of ways to do this and I appreciate your feedback.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Sounds like you have this covered. You've accumulated crimpers that I just haven't pursed. So you're in a better place than me there. The kind of butt connectors you're describing, covered with triple wall sleeving (the kind with adhesive inside), is also what I do. My reference was to the cheap (sorry FF) ones supplied in the kits.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Good evening Paul,
I know that this is a bit after the fact, but I've just finished reading your complete build thread, and to say that I was impressed is quite an understatement.
It was a great read. I think that the way you incorporated the details of the plan, the steps, the descisions, and excecution of the plan to your end goal was very nice.
I was very much inspired to want to do the same.
I've known for some time that I would like to build another Factory Five project, but was not sure what it would be. F9? Roadster-Mk5? or Coupe-Gen 3?
I'm thinking more seriously about the idea that a Gen-3 Type-65 Daytona Coupe may be in my future.
Thank you for letting us all ride along and enjoy the build with you.
Michael