Electrical Part 2 - Removed Wire and Connectors
Front Transmission Cover Mod
Today, we worked at tidying up a few wires behind the dash. The blue wire from the E-Stopp controller was extended and run to the "ignition" terminal on the ignition switch. Wires to the heated seat switches were also lengthened. The FFR front transmission cover was modified to accommodate harnesses coming up out of the "electrical compartment". I haven't determined how I will secure the panel in place. It will need to be removable. The dash was clamped in place so I can start making connections to switches and gauges. There appears to be lots of room between the dash and the firewall. The photos shows the harnesses coming up from the front transmission cover are hidden.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1766099162
Electrical Part 3 - Dash Wiring, Front Transmission Cover Mod, Dash Install
Moved on with electrical projects by wiring the dash. I started by drilling the dash in two locations to install the control access buttons for the vintage gauge tach and speedometer. This caused the clear coat to lift and I've resided to the fact that I'll need to strip and re-spray the dash. I'll do that later when I'm sure there are no other mods required on the dash. The buttons were installed at the 4 o'clock position on each gauge. I did not install the button for the fuel gauge. Once the gauge is calibrated there should be no need for this button. Excess wire on the buttons was removed making for a very short run. Next, the gauge lighting, accessory power and ground wires for the gauges were run to the terminal strips provided. The strips were glued to the back of the dash with some JB Weld. I also used the electronic dimmer control that came with the gauges. The button for this was installed out of sight in the lower lip of the dash pointing down. I then clamped the dash in place and started to make the necessary connections to gauges and switched. First, The Ron Francis (RF) dash harness was taken apart and separated into its three main components. The oil pressure gauge wiring harness uses three wires rather than two. Therefore, I ran the provided harness from the dash area through the grommet at the front of the transmission tunnel forward along the left side. For the oil temperature, water temperature and fuel gauge wiring harnesses I cut off the gauge end of each harness and made connections with the appropriate wires in the RF harness. Wires were cut to length, but long enough to allow the dash to be removed if required in the future. The tach signal wire was installed earlier. I've elected not to install the clock. I NEVER look at it on my 2012 build. Instead, I've opted to install an oil temperature gauge.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1768476718
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1768476718
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1768476718
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1768476945
Switch wiring next. The headlight switch is pre-wired in the RF harness....easy. There is a mess of wires provided if a dash mounted turn signal switch is being used. These aren't required since the turn signal control is mounted and wired on the steering column. Most of these wires were cut back and terminated with heat shrink except for a left and right wire. These were connected to the "Turn Signal and High Beam Harness" for the speedometer, and spliced to indicator lights provided in the kit from FFR. Likewise, the high beam wire in the RF harness was connected and spliced in a similar manner. The High Beam switch did not come with a wiring diagram. I spent a few minutes with a multimeter to figure it out and ran the appropriate wires from the RF harness. Same for the horn button.
I had to install switches for the E-Stopp parking brake, the heater fan and temperature control in the lower section of the carbon fibre dash. This again caused the clear coat to lift. The E-Stopp control wires were extended to reach the switch. The "Heater" wire from the RF harness was cut to length for the fan switch. Two separate wires were run to the heater for low and high speed. The "wiper" wire from the RF harness was run in a separate loom and will go through an opening in the firewall along with the main harness to the Ford ECM. The wiper motor was taken out of the box and the mounting location determined. There is no mention in the MKV assembly manual. I referred to the Type 65 manual. I'm glad I did this before mounting something else in this location.
Note...I used stab type connectors to make the connections on the switches. Other connections were made with male/female butt connectors. This allows the dash to be completely separated without having to cut wires. All connections were labelled and wire placed back in loom and wrapped with cloth tape.
I have left a few unused wires in place in case I require a circuit in the future. I'll cut these back once the power train is installed and operational.
With the dash wiring complete, I turned my attention back to the front transmission cover. The cover was modified further to allow cabling to exit from the "electrical compartment" below. Then the panel was cut into two pieces as was suggested by RobHartley and documented in a post from Reddrig's build thread. The upper most smaller piece will be permanently fixed in place. The lower cover will be removable in the event of electrical troubleshooting on the future.
Finally, dash mounts were fabricated and installed. I used some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flat bar to make simple L brackets for the top of the dash, and supports at the bottom. The L brackets are riveted to the under side of the steel dash hoop while the lower support brackets are riveted to the underside of the 2" square tube. I ran some thin self adhesive foam long the steel dash hoop to act as a cushion between the dash and the hoop. The dash is held securely with black screws provided from FFR. Four attachment points along the top and only two supports on the bottom of the dash approximately 6-8" in from the ends.
Ease of Access to the Reservoirs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Dave Howard
I had a couple of 04:00 mornings with the wheels in motion about my choice of location for the remote reservoirs. Some great comments from Jeff Kleiner that I couldn't get out of my thoughts. So, the brake reservoirs were siphoned empty, the transfer tubing removed, and the remote reservoirs moved to the outside of the right square tube coming out of the front of the drivers footbox. This location still meets my desire to keep the reservoirs out of the engine bay and should be easier to access with the body on. I was able to use the existing holes in the footbox front to pass the transfer hoses through. Sheri helped with the brake bleeding and we should be back on track again. Thanks Jeff.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1764210701
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1764210701
How easy is it to get to them to check the fluid level with the body on (or can you). I had seen where PaulB did this location, and was also looking at the location that is to the right of the footbox. I am going to convert it to a 3AN line instead of the rubber hose and spoke to Wilwood on this, but location -- I am iffy about. You have beautiful reservoirs - why hide them?
Turn Signal Stock Relocation Mod
I'm still waiting for the power train to arrive so I'm doing what I can to keep moving forward. I tackled a mod to the turn signal stock. I'm using a competition dash layout. The dash was assembled earlier in the project. The oil and water temperature gauges are clustered around the steering column and impede the use of the FFR supplied turn signal stock. I reached out to the guys at Blue Hills Customs who figured out how to install a collar around the steering shaft and place the turn stock to the collar on the outside of the dash. The other end of the collar has a "Millenium Falcon" shaped piece that actuates the self cancelling turn signal mechanism. They were kind enough to send me the digital files for 3D printing the parts required. After some consideration I decided to make my own pieces from aluminum. I started by using the FFR supplied turn signal stock locating template to fabricate my own "Millenium Falcon". A few attempts were transferred to card stock and a prototype piece was made from 1/8" aluminium. This design had the Falcon secured to the turn signal mechanism directly using the attachment location of the FFR supplied turn signal stock. That didn't work. The arch of the Falcon as it turns is different than the arch of the turn signal mechanism. This led me to fabricate a small steel piece that attaches to the turn signal mechanism at the turn stock location, but extend out to the left. A smooth socket head bolt was attached to this piece to act as the interface between the Falcon and the turn signal mechanism. A second prototype was made from card stock. After a morning of measuring, cutting, tweaking, I came up with a design that seemed to work. This pattern was transferred to 1/8" aluminum. The centre 3/4" hole was rough cut with a step drill. The outer cuts made with a hack saw and the edges smoothed with filing and sanding. A 1/8" washer/spacer was made to keep the Flacon away from and interfering with the turn signal mechanism.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1771171072
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1771076805
Next, a piece of thick wall pipe (1.5" OD x 3/4' ID) was purchased for the collar. It slid over the steering shaft and rotates smoothly without binding. One end of the pipe was cut clean and true from the supplier. This end was used for the collar. The Falcon was attached to the end of the pipe after drilling and tapping to accept flat head machine screws. Due to my steering wheel placement, I will require a 2" long collar and I will need to modify the steering wheel hub. I could attempt to tackle this myself with a hacksaw but don't feel comfortable enough that I could cut through the pipe square. A small local machine shop was contacted to help with this. Once I get the pieces back I will determine the location for the turn stock. The collar will be drilled and tapped. I also spent some time fabricating a custom bezel for the steering column. Lots of filing and sanding involved but I think its going to work.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1771076805
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1771076924
Trunk Sound Deadening and Carpet
I also tackled the sound deadening in the trunk area and installed carpeting to the trunk sides while the body is still off and access is much easier. Openings or gaps between aluminum pieces and the frame were first filling with aluminum tape and automotive seam sealer. A few of the carpet pieces needed to trimmed to fit properly. The frame was protected with painters tape before applying the 3M Super 77 contact adhesive. I'll do some carpeting in the foot boxes also. I still have a couple of holes to drill in the passenger footbox for the heater hoses. I'll do that after the engine is installed and I can determine the actual placement.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1771076924
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1771076924
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1771077001
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1771077001
E-Stopp Electric Emergency Brake Mod Test
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Sharris2
You may want to test it first; I bench tested mine hooked up with the button and it won't stop spinning. I feel the pin in the cable end in the housing is what it needs to engage it to stop. I reassembled mine and it worked fine.
You got me thinking so I put some power to the E-Stopp. Sure enough, the actuator rod had a tendency to spin. To stop this, I put an additional nut on the eyebolt (tension adjustment) to securely sandwich the eyebolt onto the bracket holding the e-brake cable ends.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1771367466
This solved the problem. The actuator rod twists about 15 degrees when the brake is applied then returns back to original position when the brake is disengaged. The mount appears to be fine. I took a video but not sure how to download it to the forum.
Roush Low Temperature Rad Installation
I got started with the installation of the Low Temperature Radiator (LTR) for the Roush supercharger intercooler. The kit from Roush is designed as a bolt on for a late model Mustang GT. I first had a look at the supplied mounting brackets to see what could be salvaged. The LTR has two mounting point at the bottom and two on the left and right side. I installed the lower bracket to the LTR with the supplied rubber bushings and fasteners.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1773943958
The assembly was then put in place in front of the FFR radiator for the initial fit. The LTF fit easily within the space. The lower mounting bracket was too long, so a few inches was removed from each end.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1773943958
I was fortune that two mounting holes in the Roush bracket lined up with the FFR lower radiator support. Holes were drilled through this support and the LTR secured at the bottom. I used 3" socket head cap screws and several larger nuts to act as a spacer, keeping the LTR and the FFR radiator separated by about 3/4".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1773943958
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1773943958
For the two side supports, it was apparent the Roush supplied brackets could/would not be used.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1773944040
New brackets were fabricated from 1/8" aluminum. The bracket attachment points to the LTR were traced onto the back of a cereal box. From there, the rest of the brackets were drawn, cut out and test fit. Bend locations and mounting points on the FFR frame were determined. The rough brackets were cut from the aluminum plate and edges finished with hand filing. Bends were made using a piece of angle iron from the seat installation project to act as a form for the bend radius. These brackets were then mounted to the LTR and the location of holes for mounting to the FFR frame were determined. I decide to install 5M rivet nuts in the aluminum brackets and secured them to the frame with socket head cap screws. Once satisfied with the mock up, the aluminum brackets were given a polish and the steel lower bracket from Roush was removed for powder coat. This bracket came painted, but the paint was already starting to flake off. I'm happy with this installation. Next will be finding spots for the reservoir tank, the expansion tank and the pump.
LTR Installation - additional photos 1
LTR Installation - additional photos 2
Supercharger Mock up - Battery Placement
The supercharger intercooler has its own reservoir tank, pump and degas bottle. All designed to fit nicely in a late model Mustang. I had to decide where to place these items in the front of the chassis in addition to the battery. It became apparent, there wasn't enough room for everything. So, the battery was placed in the trunk on the passenger side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1774783600
Rivet nuts were used for the 4 mounting screws. Two of these were into steel frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1774784622
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1774784622
Additional 4 gauge battery cable was purchased. A rubber grommet protects the cable as it comes through the bottom of the trunk aluminum. The cable runs down the passenger side of the transmission tunnel next the the E-Stopp actuator and is secured in place with stainless steel rubber covered clamps. The cable was placed in split loom and taped for protection. This cable runs forward towards the starter. Cable to power the rest of the car can be seen in the photo coming down from a grommet in the lower transmission cover installed earlier. A short ground was connected from the battery to the frame in the trunk.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1774784622
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1774784656
Supercharger Mock Up - continued
The supercharger reservoir tank and pump will fit nicely just behind the steering rack. A piece of cardboard was used as a template for a platform I will fabricate from a piece of 1/8 or 3/16" aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1774783600
The tank has two mounting points on the bottom and one near the top. The pump is attached to the tank with a short section of hose. It comes with a large band clamp to mount it to the aluminum plate.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1774796869
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1774796869
It appears the degas bottle will fit on the steel angled brace just to the left of the center of the chassis. Its a small narrow tank and I don't believe it will interfere with other components. The top of the degas bottle will be slightly lower than the top of the LTR, but this will not be a problem.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1774784622
Hoses will be custom and I plan to use braided stainless steel. At this point, there doesn't appear to be any interferences. The engine bay will be quite full. I still need to find a spot for the engine degas tank and a small reservoirs for the power steering.
The power train was hoisted off the shipping pallet and moved to the front of the the car. This gave me room to inspect more closely. Good thing. One bolt missing holding the Quicktime bellhousing to the back of the engine. Also, it gave me an opportunity to inspect the clutch slave cylinder and power steering pump. NO literature for these components was provided and there are NO identification markings on them. I'll have to make a fast call to the supplier on Monday. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1774784801
Update: The supplier was contacted. The slave is a "no-name". If I have any issues I'll change it out. Thats the beauty of running an external slave. NO need to remove the transmission to change the slave. Not sure why anyone would consider using an internal slave to actuate the clutch. As for the power steering pump, its a knock off of a OEM GM Type 2 pump. All good to know if maintenance is required in the future.
