Rick's Mark V Roadster Build

Yes, the clevis goes on the pedal end. In case you haven't reviewed the EFI end, you will also need a mounting bracket. Seems like most people use a universal bracket sold on Amazon. You can find details here in the forum using the google search method.

I spoke with Lokar and ended up buying their billet bracket, made for the Sniper2. If you want details on that let me know and Ill track it down and add it to this post.

Pat

Edit 6/8/25

BILLET ALUMINUM BRACKET AND SPRINGS FOR HOLLEY SNIPER 2 EFI BLACK

SKU: XTCB-40HS2

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PMD24

Yes, the clevis goes on the pedal end. In case you haven't reviewed the EFI end, you will also need a mounting bracket. Seems like most people use a universal bracket sold on Amazon. You can find details here in the forum using the google search method.

I spoke with Lokar and ended up buying their billet bracket, made for the Sniper2. If you want details on that let me know and Ill track it down and add it to this post.

Pat

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Please I would appreciate that!

Today was eventful. It started with the easy task of installing the turn signal mechanism. Im usually missing parts, this time I had 10 turn signal stalks! If anyone needs one, I have 9 extra!

Attachment 214769

4 hours later, I finished the install. You not only have to perfectly center the steering shaft in the mechanism, the cam itself needs to be perfectly square with mechanism as well. It looks like the cam lobes are about 1/8 of an inch wide and the springs are about a 1/16. If it is not exact the springs roll off the lobe and do not release the handle. I had to add 4 washers per side and mount the bracket at the angle that the shaft enters the dash. I tried many combinations and the one that finally worked was three between the bearing and the mount and 1 between the bracket and the mount. I guess if I had different thickness washers to use as shims it would been easier. Here are some photos with the combinations I tried.

Attachment 214771

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Attachment 214773

As part of the alignment process I had to loosen / slightly move one of the bearings. So although the turn signal was working I had a slight bind where one of the lock nuts was rubbing. I fixed that and it moved the cam slightly causing the spring to roll off the cam again. There was no way I was starting over, so I decided to strengthen the spring with a small zip tie, so it would not roll off the cam. It worked and all is working either way no issues or binds.

Attachment 214774

I’m not sure if this is normal or just my inexperience? I figured I’d share my tribulations/solutions in case others encounter the same issue, or someone can point out a better way. I did also get to attach my first panel which went without a hitch. And even better I tested out my Milwaukee electric rivet gun. I jammed it once but was able to clear it and attached my first 80 rivets!

Attachment 214775

Attachment 214776

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Please I would appreciate that!

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I’m guessing this was the Lokar Bracket you used?

Lokar Throttle Cable Brackets TCB-40HS2

Yes, post 81 updated to include this detail. I believe the X in my model number is the finish indicator.

Pat

Rick, my initial mount of the turn signal switch was not near centering also. I will have to use a lot of washer shims to get it to center. Haven't tried to work the cancelling cams yet.
I hope your getting 10 stalks is not a sign of something, like needing a lot to get things to work, as I only have one.
We will be following.
Ralph

This is interesting - I am just starting my MkV - and will progress much more slowly than you I can see already!

I was at the open house yesterday and sat in their MkV they put together over the last couple weeks - it seems they keep the steering wheel the same but lowered the seating position. The top of the steering wheel is straight in front of eyes - which is 4-6” higher than my car. Created a lot of chatter at the event yesterday and ideas on how to address -

Have you run into this yet? And thoughts on a solution?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Today was eventful. It started with the easy task of installing the turn signal mechanism. Im usually missing parts, this time I had 10 turn signal stalks! If anyone needs one, I have 9 extra!

Attachment 214769

4 hours later, I finished the install. You not only have to perfectly center the steering shaft in the mechanism, the cam itself needs to be perfectly square with mechanism as well. It looks like the cam lobes are about 1/8 of an inch wide and the springs are about a 1/16. If it is not exact the springs roll off the lobe and do not release the handle. I had to add 4 washers per side and mount the bracket at the angle that the shaft enters the dash. I tried many combinations and the one that finally worked was three between the bearing and the mount and 1 between the bracket and the mount. I guess if I had different thickness washers to use as shims it would been easier. Here are some photos with the combinations I tried.

Attachment 214771

Attachment 214772

Attachment 214773

As part of the alignment process I had to loosen / slightly move one of the bearings. So although the turn signal was working I had a slight bind where one of the lock nuts was rubbing. I fixed that and it moved the cam slightly causing the spring to roll off the cam again. There was no way I was starting over, so I decided to strengthen the spring with a small zip tie, so it would not roll off the cam. It worked and all is working either way no issues or binds.

Attachment 214774

I’m not sure if this is normal or just my inexperience? I figured I’d share my tribulations/solutions in case others encounter the same issue, or someone can point out a better way. I did also get to attach my first panel which went without a hitch. And even better I tested out my Milwaukee electric rivet gun. I jammed it once but was able to clear it and attached my first 80 rivets!

Attachment 214775

Attachment 214776

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I am surprised you riveted in the floor pan aluminum. Are you leaving it natural or painting it?

The instructions aren’t clear in many cases - so don’t feel alone!!!!
The community has been great in helping.
I read somewhere (and for the life of me can’t find it now) that people are replacing the front UCA ball joint grease cover - apparently better ones available at Amazon -

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dr-sicel

This is interesting - I am just starting my MkV - and will progress much more slowly than you I can see already!

I was at the open house yesterday and sat in their MkV they put together over the last couple weeks - it seems they keep the steering wheel the same but lowered the seating position. The top of the steering wheel is straight in front of eyes - which is 4-6” higher than my car. Created a lot of chatter at the event yesterday and ideas on how to address -

Have you run into this yet? And thoughts on a solution?

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I am 6’4” so it seems ok. At the build school they recommended the seat mount from breeze. I plan on using the kirkey seats. They have adjustable mounts and the rails will also raise it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

I am surprised you riveted in the floor pan aluminum. Are you leaving it natural or painting it?

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I am going to spray it with LizardSkin sound/heat coating. Eventually I’ll cover it with carpet.

Today I went to install the steering wheel and discovered that although I got the turn signal mechanism to work, the shaft was binding so it would not move. I had to reinstall it. After some frustration, I came up with a solution that might help others. The issue is that you need to align the bearing/shaft as well as the bracket holding the turn signal mechanism. I repeatedly would get one but not the other. So, I figured I had to secure/adjust them separately. My solution was a nut to hold the bracket and then another nut to hold the bearing on the same bolt. Once I did this, it went much easier. Here are some pictures. Final config for me was a bolt as a spacer on one side and a bolt and washer on the other. Hope this helps someone else get through this.

Attachment 214866

Attachment 214865

Today I worked on alignment. Since I have steering working I was able to center the power steering rack and wheel, align the spindle/rotor so I can connect the tie rod end.

Attachment 214900

Attachment 214905

I picked up this socket in Amazon, but it did not fit. I had to grind it to make it work. Guess that’s why it was cheap.

Attachment 214906

Tomorrow some parts are coming, so should be able to finish the front end, tighten everything up and start running brake lines.

I’m starting to fabricate my first custom panel. I’m trying to get as much legroom as possible so I installed the pedals as far back as I could without hitting the crossmember. I will basically build a box to cover/clear the pedals.

Attachment 214901

Attachment 214902

And finally in the afternoon I installed another panel with 100 rivets. The driver floor is in.

Attachment 214903

Attachment 214904

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

I gave up trying to make adjustments. I fix one bind and it causes another. I cut the lower bar about 1/2” and it’s working! Until I attached the steering wheel and it was 90 degrees off! Not sure why did they did not make the screws on the steering wheel completely symmetrical??? I had to sand the steering wheel mount shaft to get it slide into the mount and steering wheel. Anyway took it apart for the twentieth time and rotated the u-joint on the steering rack. Good progress…

Attachment 214720

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Rick, trying to install my steering wheel to center up things. Where did you find the 6 screws that hold the steering wheel to the hub. They were not in the box with the wheel, or the front steering shaft box, or the misc. small connectors. I have run out of places to look.
Thanks, Ralph

Mine were in the box that had just screws/bolts/nuts. I am installing the tank and can’t find the bolts/nuts! They told me they should have been in that box. They are sending them to me. I have my “chair of despair’ where I sit and go through my parts list to find out where that missing part/connector is! ��

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Mine were in the box that had just screws/bolts/nuts. I am installing the tank and can’t find the bolts/nuts! They told me they should have been in that box. They are sending them to me. I have my “chair of despair’ where I sit and go through my parts list to find out where that missing part/connector is! ��

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lRick, thanks. I think I found the steering wheel screws. I mistakenly thought the hub was threaded, but evidently there are screws and nuts. I found 6 M6x30 screws, and now all I have to do is find the nuts that fit them.
I do not have a "chair of despair" but do have a "wall of shame" that i hang all my mis-bent brake lines.
PS, I have always had to use longer bolts on the gas tank as I never could get the supplied ones to fit.
Ralph

Today was productive although I ran into the usual… missing bolts! I spoke to FFR and they are sending them to me. After building the in-tank pump I called FFR about the strange routing of the hose, but it was the only way it would not bind. They are going to get back to me. Does this look right?

Attachment 214917

This way it looked kinked…

Attachment 214918

Here are the spots I chose for the fuel filter and vapor canister. I chose to connect the canister with a rivet nut, just in case it needs to be changed at some point? Is there only one hose to the canister? Not really sure how it works.

Attachment 214921

Attachment 214922

The tank is just strapped in because I’m missing the bolts to attach it. I temporarily connected the straps with a pin to make sure I had the bolts for the other side. The manual does not say which bolts to use for this??? Tech support told me to use 2” socket heads, but I could not get them to reach? I guess I’ll just pickup some 3” bolts to make it easier to connect.

And was able to finish the front suspension, as I received the missing sleeves. Definitely making progress..

Attachment 214923

Attachment 214924

In world beyond FFR build videos, there are people like Frank at i.e.427 (YouTube channel). Great topics, details, and well-produced!

They always need longer bolts for the first time installation of the tank straps. Once they have been pulled up tight and extruded into shape you can remove them and replace them with the shorter 2" bolts---or not ;)

The fuel pump "S" hose is normal. Don't use the worm drive hose clamps; they cut into the hose. Instead replace them with actual fuel injection hose clamps.

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/s...kqAzpgY49z9NfE

Viewing your upside down and sideways photos makes my neck hurt :p

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Viewing your upside down and sideways photos makes my neck hurt :p

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Have to say the same. Now my neck is kinked for the rest of the day:(

If you open your pictures in almost any program prior to posting and resize them (either larger or smaller) it will eliminate the rotational roulette.

Hmm I’m doing it on my phone I’ll try from my computer instead. Ok I’ll switch the clamps. Thanks!

Are you sure you need to extend the driver's footbox? One of the major improvements with the MkV is accommodation for taller folk, to (allegedly) 6'5" and above.

Greg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gbranham

Are you sure you need to extend the driver's footbox? One of the major improvements with the MkV is accommodation for taller folk, to (allegedly) 6'5" and above.

Greg

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So far yes. I would fit but my legs need to be bent back. So it gives a more comfortable seating position. I’ll know for sure once I’ve mounted the Kirkey seats.

Today I installed the brake booster and ran the lines for the front brakes. It went pretty smoothly but it is nerve racking threading the brake lines and making sure not to cross thread the fittings. I am not sure if these lines will be in the way when I go to install the engine. For those with experience. Do these look ok?

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Here is how I routed the soft lines.

Attachment 214967

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And finally the master cylinders.

Attachment 214969

Tip on those doing this for the first time. The brake lines have two different depth fittings. The brake booster ports are very deep. So if you make the line with the small fitting towards the booster, the fitting will not bottom out and the line is loose. I assume this would have been bad, so I had to throw out and redo the first two lines because they were backwards!

Any feedback on the lines would be appreciated. I am a bit nervous about doing this properly. By the way using a computer did not change the upside pictures. I had to edit them, rotate them 360 degrees so they were exactly the same and then save them to a new file. That seemed to work. At least in preview mode. Hopefully I stop making people dizzy!

I am no expert on brake lines, but I did learn the same thing you mentioned about the booster hookups. One thing you might want to check real quick is your front wheel well aluminum panels. Just ensure they don’t interfere with your brake lines. Mine did slightly and I did not find out about it until later on. Just takes a second and it is easy to fix, but it will give you piece of mind if you verify now.

You asked for feedback, right? I will be blunt and say I'm not a fan of (1) The large lengths of brake lines kind of floating in space. Especially around the booster. And (2) the service loops which aren't necessary other than to take up excess line length. Personally, I'd like to see the lines following the frame rails more closely and tied down more. I get that you're using the pre-made lengths of brake line and doing the best you can with those. The next level you may want to consider is to invest in a decent tool to make flares and adjust the lines appropriately. Guys seem to avoid that for some reason. A good flaring tool is relatively cheap compared to the overall project budget and will make a big difference. Both steel and NiCop (popular on here) flare easily and with just a little practice will be perfect. In many cases, better than the factory flares IMO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Tip on those doing this for the first time. The brake lines have two different depth fittings. The brake booster ports are very deep. So if you make the line with the small fitting towards the booster, the fitting will not bottom out and the line is loose. I assume this would have been bad, so I had to throw out and redo the first two lines because they were backwards!

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I just found four fittings/crush washers in the bottom of the box. Looks like FFR took care of depth of connectors on the booster. I installed them, definitely would have been easier off the car.

Attachment 215006

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tango

I am no expert on brake lines, but I did learn the same thing you mentioned about the booster hookups. One thing you might want to check real quick is your front wheel well aluminum panels. Just ensure they don’t interfere with your brake lines. Mine did slightly and I did not find out about it until later on. Just takes a second and it is easy to fix, but it will give you piece of mind if you verify now.

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Will do!

I agree with everything Paul is saying. Do it right and cut your lines to length, and reflare. I've used many flare tools, and struggled with many of them, but this $50 jobber worked perfectly the first time, and every time, and is very easy to use. Get rid of the service loops, and tuck the lines in tight to the frame.

Greg

Attachment 215005

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edwardb

You asked for feedback, right? I will be blunt and say I'm not a fan of (1) The large lengths of brake lines kind of floating in space. Especially around the booster. And (2) the service loops which aren't necessary other than to take up excess line length. Personally, I'd like to see the lines following the frame rails more closely and tied down more. I get that you're using the pre-made lengths of brake line and doing the best you can with those. The next level you may want to consider is to invest in a decent tool to make flares and adjust the lines appropriately. Guys seem to avoid that for some reason. A good flaring tool is relatively cheap compared to the overall project budget and will make a big difference. Both steel and NiCop (popular on here) flare easily and with just a little practice will be perfect. In many cases, better than the factory flares IMO.

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Point taken. I was concerned about making my own flares versus cost. Is this a good choice?

https://a.co/d/9Zmyfaq

https://a.co/d/esSKMlQ

You can mix the different types of brake lines in the same system, I assume?

Yep, what Paul said. Also take into consideration where the battery tray will be (the crossover line you currently have will interfere) and also how you'll get a battery in there. When I was at FFR last week with the guys in the shop building the Anniversary go cart for the show they'd failed to do that and had to take the booster loose (and remove other components) to put a battery in.

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Point taken. I was concerned about making my own flares versus cost. Is this a good choice?

https://a.co/d/9Zmyfaq

https://a.co/d/esSKMlQ

You can mix the different types of brake lines in the same system, I assume?

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That copper line looks fine, but I would shy away from those bar-style flare tools; I've never had anything but bad luck with them. Get the one I suggested, and thank me later. You don't need to spend $250 on a fancy flare tool.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Yep, what Paul said. Also take into consideration where the battery tray will be (the crossover line you currently have will interfere) and also how you'll get a battery in there. When I was at FFR last week with the guys in the shop building the Anniversary go cart for the show they'd failed to do that and had to take the booster loose (and remove other components) to put a battery in.

Jeff

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I thought of that, definitely before the engine goes in. Changing the battery will be a nightmare. There is about 9 inches of clearance from the frame to the bottom of the booster.

I have the Eastwood Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool (on sale right now for $199) and it's bulletproof. I've done several builds with SS tubing and it works. Did steel lines on the truck build and makes flares like butter. NiCop would be similar. I can understand not wanting to spend the money, but nothing worse than working to get a line bent just right and then have a bad flare. Or a leaker later in the build. Getting the brakes right is probably one of the most important aspects of your build. That smaller portable one from Eastwood looks like an OK choice, although I haven't personally used one. Tip -- check Amazon and search for "TGR Flaring Tool." Looks like the same ones sold by Eastwood but cheaper.

100% agree avoid the bar style tools. I've tried a bunch of them with very unpredictable results. They are time and material wasters IMO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gbranham

That copper line looks fine, but I would shy away from those bar-style flare tools; I've never had anything but bad luck with them. Get the one I suggested, and thank me later. You don't need to spend $250 on a fancy flare tool.

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This looks like the one?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900318

And get this copper line?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ops-mlk7cn

Yep and yep.

Greg

I appreciate the feedback. I thought you needed some slack for stress relief? I ordered the brake parts and will redo the cross line. I rerouted the lines to the booster so they are under the frame.

Attachment 215015

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Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

I appreciate the feedback. I thought you needed some slack for stress relief? I ordered the brake parts and will redo the cross line. I rerouted the lines to the booster so they are under the frame.

Thanks!

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Not on these cars.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Well I finally pulled the trigger on purchasing a kit to fulfill a lifelong dream. As a teenager I saw the movie Gumball Rally and fell in love with the Cobra. If you haven't seen it, it's a must watch! I recently retired from the computer software industry and could not wait to pursue building one. I am 6' 4" so I was excited to see the new changes to the Mark V. I took the FFR build class at Mott Community college to make sure I was up to the task and to make sure I would fit. Zero to doing donuts in 3 days! It was quite the experience and gave me the confidence that I would be able to do it. I was able to build a garage with a lift and now I'm just waiting for shipment. It is scheduled to arrive 5/30!

I purchased the full kit and the Blueprint 347 EFI + PS and AC. I live in Florida and will absolutely need the AC! :)

Rick

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Awesome! Good luck with your build. I am just starting mine as well. I have the same rolling seat/stool as in your garage picture.... that's where the similarities of our garages end, unfortunately. Your setup looks amazing. I, on the otherhand, will be assembling this in a single side of my 2 car garage competing with another car and kids sporting goods. Ha ha. Have fun with your build, looking forward to reading about it.

Jay