[QUOTE=wedel456;578019]Glad you found it useful!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
This is the drop base I used.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1677000066
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[QUOTE=wedel456;578019]Glad you found it useful!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
This is the drop base I used.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1677000066
Scott,
What is this tapered spacer you speak of?
Thanks,
Brent
Hi Brent,Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
It's a spacer that goes under my Sniper unit that is tapered to allow the front of the sniper to sit higher than the back. this tilts the air cleaner lower in the back to aid in clearing trhe hood.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1677000145
Scott
Is this a product to did you have it milled?Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
I am going to have to do the air filter drop base and the tapered spacer as well. Where did you get the spacer. Not having much luck finding it on google. Do you have any issues with the air clearner hitting the hood?
After some more searching with different terms on Google, I was able to find them. There are a few different options.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-65030
That's it! I still had issues where the air cleaner did hit the hood when the engine torqued under accel. :rolleyes: I did cut the stiffener at the edge of the hood, by 1/2 it's thickness, to give enough clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Scott
They do have a 12 degree one cs the 5 deg. Maybe that would help.
It’s been a while since my last update, but the work definitely hasn’t stopped! I’m hoping to catch up on posts soon — a lot has happened since the last one.
Back in May, my dad came out to help me with one of the biggest milestones of the build: getting the engine installed. We started by bolting up the bellhousing and checking for dead center (after a quick trip to Harbor Freight for a dial indicator and mount, of course). To my surprise, it was perfectly in spec without needing any dowels. Once confirmed, I painted the transmission and bellhousing with POR-15 Gloss Black (to match the engine) — and that’s when the “fun” began.
After measuring for the hydraulic throwout bearing and confirming we were within spec (for anyone doing this, I’d recommend setting it toward the shorter end of the range rather than the longer), we began assembling everything: flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, and bellhousing — all torqued down to spec.
But then came the real battle: getting the transmission to seat fully into the engine. No matter what we did, it just wouldn’t go all the way in. We pulled it off several times to double-check clutch alignment and re-verify everything — everything looked perfect, yet it refused to slip into place. Just as we were about to throw in the towel and call for backup, we gave it one last try, wiggled it around a bit, and somehow it all came together. No idea what changed, but we weren’t about to question it!
We did run into the same issue others have mentioned (including @P100DHG) with the Dart block - I don't have a picture but did exactly what @p100DHG did in his build tread. The motor mount needed a little trimming — actually, a lot of little trimmings — to keep it from hitting the block. Once that was sorted (and after another Harbor Freight run, this time to replace my failing engine hoist ram jack), the engine dropped right into place.
And let me tell you — seeing it finally sitting there in the chassis made all the headaches worth it. What a sight!
Attachment 219746 Attachment 219747
Now for the problems:
- The oil pan is about 1.5 inches below the frame rail. Ergo, I need a new:
- The air cleaner that came with the engine as zero possibility of fitting, ZERO, both front and back and side to side. Will need to figure this out.
- The transmission did not have the mid shift kit installed (yet) and the shift point is right under the rail in the transmission tunnel. I knew this was going to be an issue but still need to find a solution (mid shift kit or otherwise). ***Fixed Here***
- The FFR provide Transmission mount does not line up to the holes. FFR had an adjustment bracket and sent me one. More on this in a following post. ***Fixed Here***
Next up was the radiator tunnel and radiator installation. The tunnel panels went on using the polished 1/8" stainless rivets I’ve used throughout the build — and they look awesome once in place against the black powder coating.
The radiator install itself went smoothly, with one small deviation from the manual. Instead of using the cut tubing Factory Five recommends for the lower mounting point, I used some of the U-channel trim provided in the Coupe kit. It fit perfectly and provided a clean, finished look.
A quick word of advice for anyone using the Breeze Radiator Shroud Kit: do not install the shroud before the radiator. If you do, you’ll quickly realize you can’t access the bottom mounting points — in my case, 10-32 flange head screws into rivnuts.
For the top mount, I referenced my solution back in [Post 24]. I made a custom bracket to attach the shroud to the top of the radiator. Once the radiator was secured in the car with the lower screws installed, I mocked up the top bracket with clecos, then riveted everything together using the same polished 1/8" stainless rivets for a consistent finish.
Attachment 219748 Attachment 219749 Attachment 219750
With the radiator securely installed, it was time to finish out the cooling system. For the tubing, as previously documented, I went with Boig Cooling Tubes, which fit perfectly and look fantastic once in place.
I followed the routing approach used by @p100DHG, which provides clean lines, excellent clearance, and an OEM-style appearance. The layout not only simplifies future maintenance but also complements the overall engine bay aesthetic:
- BMS-109 Gen 3 Coupe Upper Hose with Coyote Enginefor the upper hose - yes, I have a SBF but since I am using a different thermostat hosing, using the Coyote will provide a much cleaner look.
- BMS-116 Gen 3 Coupe Lower Cooling Tube for SBF / Windsor for the lower hose.
Before installation, I polished the top cooling tube following the same process I’ve described in earlier posts. For the lower tube, I opted for POR-15 Chassis Black, since it will be largely hidden once installed and doesn’t need the same visual attention.
To tie everything together — and to keep the engine bay looking as clean as possible — I used Gates thermoplastic clamps for all the Boig tube connections. For the thermostat housing, I opted for a worm-drive clamp with cover to maintain a neat appearance, and then used the kit-supplied formed hose and 90 degree fittings with additional Gates clamps to finish the setup.
- Radiator to Boig Tubes - (4) Gates 1 1/2" (32948):
- Connection from lower 90 to the lower Boig tubing and water pump - (3) Gates 1 3/4 (32954) *you will need a third one to connect the upper tube to the 90 at the real radiator panel -See the first pic above:
- I replaced the engine builder provide worm clamps from the water pump to thermostat housing with (2) Gates 5/8 (32925):
The last connection is from the upper cool tube to the thermostat housing. To complete this I used a 90 degree and the flexible radiator tube from the Coupe kit. I ended the upper cool tube right after the back radiator tunnel panel which gave it just enough room to route around the radiator overflow tank. Since this will never be seen, I used a polished stainless steel gear worm to crimp the flexible tube to the 90:
Attachment 219759
For the overflow connections, I used the same PTFE hose and connectors as I did on my flexible fuel connections post. I did need to swap out the 1/4-inch bypass fitting on the thermostat housing for a 1/4-inch to 6AN fitting. With that, the cooling system installation is complete.
With the cooling system completed, I moved on to the heater tubing connections. As I documented previously, I installed the heater control valve in passenger footbox and opted for grommets over the bulkhead fitting.
After connecting the heater tubing provided in the kit to the heater control valve for in and outflow using stainless black worm drive clamps, I connected the inflow to the intake using a combination of connectors. I attempted to utilize a 1/2 NPT to 5/8 barb connector; however, all of them that I could find were not tall enough to allow for installation; ergo, I decided to go with:
To complete the inflow connection, I utilized the same Gates thermoplastic clamps from the Finished Cooling System post. This time I used part number Gates 5/8 (32925):
Attachment 219779
For the outflow, I connected it directly to the waterpump using the same Gates termoplastic clamps (32925) used above.
Attachment 219780
To finish up the final install, I measured, cut, and install the drain hose using the provided tee and the same stainless black worm drive clamps. I drilled the floor with a 5/8 drill bit.
Attachment 219781 Attachment 219782
With that, the heater piping is completed!
Aside from the challenges connecting the transmission to the engine, getting the power steering system to run leak-free was by far the trickiest part of the engine installation. For context, I’m using a CVF Racing GM type II power steering pump (with the GM Type II Pressure Reducing Valve - DO NOT FORGET THIS) with a remote reservoir and followed their instructions to hook everything together:
Attachment 219786
For the high pressure connections, I ran a combination of 6 AN and 10 AN high-pressure PTFE tubing and misc connectors (make sure to get a mixture as I used 45, 90, and 180 adapters) along:
- The bottom frame rail, on top of the brake lines, connecting to and from the remote reservoir.
Attachment 219788 Attachment 219789- The driver’s side frame rail, from the pump to the rack and back.
Attachment 219790
The biggest headache came from trying to save a few bucks on the original 5/8-18 and 9/16-18 NPT fittings I purchased for the rack. I cannot express this enough..... DO NOT DO THIS. I had to connect, test, and redo the installation three times—each time Honda Power Steering fluid went everywhere. Once I contacted Breeze and ordered their Adapter Fitting Kit, the installation went smoothly. The key difference? The included sealing washers.
Attachment 219787
With everything connected and leak-free, the power steering system is finally complete.
Transmission Mounting Fix:
As I mentioned in a previous post, the transmission mount did not line up with the mounting holes on the frame. No matter how I adjusted the bracket—and after multiple calls to FFR support—I couldn’t get it to fit. This was surprising, given that this is a standard package (351W with a TKX). After reviewing the issue with FFR support, they sent me an transmission mounting extension bracket that mounts to the transmission and then connects to the original FFR mounting bracket, resolving the alignment issue.
Attachment 219791 Attachment 219792 Attachment 219793
Shifter Location:
As I mentioned previously, the standard rear TKX shifter location caused an issue: while it could be installed, it only allowed full engagement of first gear. My engine package included a mid-shift kit, which I had hoped would be installed prior to delivery, but that did not happen. In the end, this wasn’t a major setback. After consulting with my engine builder and running into some supply chain delays, I decided to move forward with an American Powertrain 3" Offset Short Throw Shifter (SHWL-10100SR3X). Installing this required cutting the transmission tunnel cross member—nothing major—but the result was a shifter that ended up better aligned with the factory shifter hole than it would have been with the mid-shift kit.
Once installed, the offset shifter works and looks perfect.
*** One important note: the other benefit by using a offset shifter rather than a mid shift kit - and you would not know this without reading the manual - is that you get to keep the neutral safety switch. If you migrate to the midshfit kit then the safety switch will not work. This may not be a big deal to anyone only using the FFR neutral clutch switch; however, I wanted to be able to start the car in neutral or if the clutch was engaged. See this #42 if you are interested in reading how I accomplished this. ***
Attachment 219794 Attachment 219795
With those issues resolved, I still need to:
- Clean up the rough cut on the cross member and paint the edges. I may even install and 1" steel member to reenforce the area but I have not decided.
- Purchase the shifter boot - prob the Lakar Hi-top Boot - that I like and mount it using the FFR provided shifter ring.
Reservoir Connections:
In a previous post, I covered how I mounted the brake and clutch reservoirs. The final step for this part of the project was connecting them to the master cylinders. To accomplish this, I purchased three 5/16” barb-to-1/8” NPT adapters for the bottom of each reservoir. As always, I polished the fittings and the worm hose clamps for a clean, finished look.
I then connected the FFR kit hoses to the adapters and routed them through the upper right-hand hole on the RIGHT FOOTBOX FRONT. To secure the hoses through the factory hole, I used a 1” stainless cable gland, which I also polished. The finished installation looks great.
Attachment 219796 Attachment 219797Attachment 219797 Attachment 219798
I’ll still need to level the reservoirs once the custom panel covering them is installed—this will happen closer to the final assembly. For now, this portion of the project is complete.
Brake Bleeding:
Never thought bleeding the brakes would be difficult—but it turned into a major pain. I had hoped to make it a one-person job, so I had purchased a vacuum pump bleed kit—but I couldn’t have been more wrong. I was extremely thankful to have my father in town to help. After confirming there were no leaks and trying to pump the system full of air with the vacuum pump (which it passed) and still not getting a firm pedal using the vacuum, we eventually switched to the old catch-can method. Even that wasn’t working.
After talking with support, it became clear: we hadn’t bench-bled the master cylinders. Lesson learned—complete a bench bleed. A quick trip to Advanced Auto Parts for a Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit fixed that. Once the masters were bench-bled, connecting the kit back to the reservoirs, we slowly bled the system—even after no more air bubbles appeared, just to be safe.
After that, the old catch-can method worked perfectly, and the brakes bled quickly and efficiently. We did both the inside and outside bleeders on every caliper to achieve a rock-solid pedal. I would skip the vacuum method entirely if I had to do it again. Brakes are now firm and ready.
With the engine installed and all fitment confirmed, I moved on to installing the remaining panels not previously covered in an earlier post. For panels with visible rivets, I continued using 1/8" stainless steel rivets - polished of course - for a clean look, while non-visible areas received the 1/8" aluminum rivets provided in the FFR kit. After breaking two of the hand rivet tools I originally purchased (I would not recommend the Arrow brand), I upgraded to a Craftsman rivet gun. It was slightly more expensive, but the difference was night and day—highly recommended. By the end of the process, I had hand-pulled every 1/8" rivet (both stainless and aluminum, plus the 3/16" aluminum). The only rivets I used the pneumatic gun for were the 3/16" stainless ones.
To help reduce heat and noise, I applied FatMat RattleTrap (previously discussed) to the inside of both the COCKPIT UNDER DOOR panels and the custom under door panels on the exterior. I also added some to the cross members beneath these panels. I’m not sure how much of a difference it will make overall, but every bit of insulation should help.
Attachment 219802
I don't knave many pictures from this point of the project but the panels looked awesome. Too bad I had to cover them with the FatMat RattleTrap :)
Once all the panels were installed, I attached the cover for my drop trunk using 10-32 flange head screws and 10-32 rivnuts. Everything fits and functions perfectly.
Attachment 219803 Attachment 219801
After that, I applied FatMat RattleTrap to all of the interior panels. It’s a very easy product to work with—as long as it doesn’t fold over onto itself (if it does, just toss that piece and start over). I’m not certain how much it will help with heat, but the panels are noticeably quieter when knocked.
Only a few photos were taken at this stage, but here’s a good example of how everything came together.
Attachment 219804
In a previous post, I covered my plan for routing the throttle cable — following the same clean layout that @P100DHG used. Once the engine was in place, it was time to put that plan into action.
I ran the throttle cable through the transmission tunnel , then out through the custom firewall panel using a grommet for protection. The cable connects to a Summit Racing Aluminum Throttle Cable Bracket (210239BLK) with a Throttle Cable Bracket Adapter (SUM-210243BLK). To improve pedal feel and response, I swapped the stock springs for 3" steel extension springs from McMaster — a simple change that made a noticeable difference to the feel of the pedal.
However, I quickly discovered that the FFR-supplied throttle cable wasn’t going to cut it. The connection points at both the pedal and the bracket were just too flimsy for a solid, precise feel — and based on what I’ve seen in the forums, I wasn’t alone. The cable kept "snapping" out of the mounting points. I ended up replacing it with an aftermarket cable from Amazon, which looked nearly identical to the Lokar version that several other builders have recommended.
The best part? I didn’t have to remove the housing I’d already installed. I simply ran the new cable through it, connected everything, and the setup now works perfectly. Smooth action, great pedal feedback — and another item checked off the list
Attachment 219805 Attachment 219806
Installed the dash today and boy does it look good in the car put together:
Attachment 220020
I have massive respect for anyone that has extra vents (I have four) AND a glove box. I had nothing but issues with getting all the ducting behind the dash, especially with all the extra wiring that I have behind there. I really have ZERO clue how anyone has a glove box with more than two vents.
While this is not the final configuration I went with due to issues during install, here is essentially the setup I used:
Attachment 220021
I had to add an additional wye and move one of the defroster vents to the passenger (right) side outlet and even then there was *just* enough room to get it to fit.
Someone (@burchfieldb?!?!?) needs to come up with a plenum solution to make this part of the process much easier.
For now, body back on for the last time tomorrow (10/12)!
FootBoxes:
Like many others on this forum, I’ve probably read through @edwardb’s Coupe build thread dozens of times. With my final body installation scheduled for tomorrow (10/12), I decided to follow his excellent advice and carpet the areas that would be tough to reach afterward — specifically the left and right footboxes.
Starting with the driver’s side, I first confirmed that I was happy with the throttle pedal height and that it fully engaged the Sniper. Once that was set, I moved on to the carpet. To give it a more finished look and some protection, I stitched on a small heel pad from Heel Pad Warehouse using carpet thread from Amazon. Surprisingly, this was very easy to do — and that’s coming from someone with zero sewing experience.
Before stitching, I applied DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim Contact Adhesive (rattle can version from Amazon) to secure the heel pad in place. After it dried, I marked the stitch holes ¼ inch apart with a ruler and a punch from a basic sewing kit, then went to town with a needle and thimble. The whole process took about an hour while watching TV. I did fold the bottom edge under before stitching, though in hindsight, it didn’t really make a difference either way.
With the heel pad complete, I used the same DAP adhesive to install the carpet on the LEFT FOOTBOX INSIDE and both FOOTBOX OUTSIDE WALL, RIGHT panels. The adhesive worked great — strong hold, clean edges, and just enough time to reposition if needed.
Attachment 220022 Attachment 220023
Please note: I did have to trim the carpet a little of the non-triangle carp (#3 in the manual) right at the bottom rail where the "V" connects. There is not enough room to slide the carpet down far enough, latest with my panel alignment.
I thenmoved on to the RIGHT INSIDE and FOOTBOX OUTSIDE WALL, RIGHT panels. Laid down the same DAP Welwood Ladau Top and Trim Contact Adhesive:
Attachment 220026Attachment 220027
Please note: If you already have the evaporator installed, as I did, you will need to trim the top of the carpet. This is *not* and big deal as you will never see it EVER. I had to trim a little more as I also have my heater control valve on the inside of the passenger footbox.
I did not need to do anything with the fronts of the two footbox areas as I have custom panels there covered in the same material as the dash. I test fitted that and it will fit perfectly.
Firewall:
When I had the body on previously, I noticed that portions of the firewall panel are visible in areas not covered by the dash. You’d have to lean over or tilt your head to see them, but it still bugged me — especially since my firewall is covered in silver FatMat Rattletrap. To clean things up, I decided to use some leftover carpet from the kit to cover the exposed sections.
While working on the passenger side, I also ran into an issue with two rivnuts I installed for the wiper system. They sat right where the carpet needed to go, and I was worried they’d cause a noticeable bulge (definitely overthinking it, but I couldn’t let it go). To even out the surface, I measured the rivnut height and ordered 0.2-inch high-density foam from Amazon to match..
I cut the foam to the same size as the carpet, cut out small circles for the rivnuts using a carpet blade, and installed both layers using DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim Contact Adhesive. The result looks clean, fits flush, and eliminates that visible silver firewall edge that would’ve driven me crazy.
Attachment 220024 Attachment 220025
I don't have a glove box, but I do have 4 vents. I switched all of my duct hose's over to the smaller 2" hose.
Still tight, but fits better.
Congrats on getting the drivetrain installed. Huge milestone reached. Great progress!
Looking good Justin! Noted on the duct, I am going to have the same issue on mine and have been thinking about how to solve it. Although mine is caused by the PDM/fuse box being on that side.Quote:
Originally Posted by wedel456
Have thoughts if you want to work on it together. Email me if you are interested.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
For a variety of reasons, I wasn’t able to get the body back on the car this past weekend :( — so I shifted gears and moved on to something else.
Like many other parts of this build, upholstery work was something I’d never done before. I had some leftover material that matched my seats, so I decided to give it a try on the rear hatch side panels. Before starting, I had already test-fitted the body to get everything positioned correctly and pre-drilled the mounting holes for the splash guards, fuel neck cover, and cockpit upper outside corners.
For the splash guards and the gas tank vent filter (I’ll cover that in more detail once the body’s back on), I used 10-32 rivnuts to attach them to the rear hatch side panels. Because of the rivnut protrusion, I used the same 0.2-inch high-density foam mentioned earlier in my firewall post to even out the surface before applying the upholstery. I used DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim Contact Adhesive again, leaving about ½ inch of foam-free space around the top edges — where the bulb weatherstripping will go — and around the rear shock tower covers and fuel neck cover.
For the rear chock tower covers, I installed the same .2-inch foam (although this was prob not needed) to make everything match and just folded the upholstery around the edges leaving it short enough not to show through where you could see if from the outside of the car.
For the cockpit upper outsidepanels, shock tower covers, and the fuel neck cover, I’ll be using ½" 10-32 stainless screws with black stainless steel washers and 10-32 black stainless steel acorn nuts on the outside. These panels shouldn’t ever need to come off, but I still wanted them upholstered before installation and removable if needed — rivets weren’t really an option here anyway, especially given how close those upper outside panels sit to the roll cage - and as an added benefit it matches the rest of the builds theme.
I left the bottom edge of each upholstered panel a little long and will trim them to fit once they’re installed in the car. Any rough or uneven edges — especially around the roll bar areas — will be hidden beneath the rear hatch carpet once it’s installed.
Overall, for a first-time upholsterer, I’m really happy with how everything turned out — the panels look great on their own, and even better once they’re installed on the car.
Attachment 220335Attachment 220334
After test fitting everything, and seeing how it looks in the car, I decided not to upholster the rear hatch rear wall. That will remain carpet connected to the rear hatch side panels and rear frame rail using rivnuts and 10-32 stainless steel screws which will allow for any service needs on the rear lights, rear view camera, body alignment, etc.
After checking in with @edwardb for his thoughts on the Factory Five–supplied wiper kit (which came with my kit) versus the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 system, I decided to go with the Specialty kit. I originally planned to use the FFR kit and even tested my relay system with it, but once I mocked it up, it became clear that it wouldn’t fit on the firewall the way I wanted. My goal was to keep the system as clean and hidden as possible, and the Specialty kit gave me the flexibility to do that.
While I still need to finalize the wiper arm mounting and tubing bends, I did get the motor installed on the firewall and verified all the electrical connections. Everything tested perfectly.
Although the motor can be mounted directly using the hardware included with the kit, I wanted to eliminate as much vibration transfer into the cockpit as possible. To achieve that, I added rubber isolators between the motor and the bracket. I couldn’t find any 10-32 isolators available for quick delivery, so I went with M6 versions and M6 stainless button-head screws for a clean, uniform look. These are connected onto the firewall using some M6 rivnuts that were provided in my rivnut installation tool.
The motor itself attaches to a two-piece bracket that comes assembled with long bolts and hex nuts.
Attachment 220339
I wanted the ability to remove the motor independently without having to take out the entire bracket assembly, so I replaced the through-bolts with 10-32 rivnuts installed in the rear bracket. This setup lets me mount the motor to the front bracket outside the car and then secure the entire assembly using 1" 10-32 stainless flange-head screws—keeping it consistent with the rest of the under-hood hardware.
Attachment 220338
If you’re anything like me, you’ve probably wondering how far the wiper motor should sit from the outside edge of the firewall panel—especially since pictures on the forum can be a bit deceiving. My main concern was ensuring there would be enough clearance for the firewall extension panels that get installed once the body is in place. Fortunately, I had already installed the rivnuts for those panels during my initial body test fit, which gave me a solid reference point. The leftmost isolator on the firewall is positioned as high as possible without interfering with the bulb molding and sits exactly 5 inches to center from the edge of the firewall panel.
Overall, the installation turned out exactly as I envisioned. The motor sits securely, is well isolated from vibration, and looks factory clean. I’ll be painting the brackets POR chassis black to match the rest of the panels under the bonnet before final installation.
Attachment 220337
The electrical is installed through the firewall to the left of the motor using a grommet, convoluted tubing from the kit, and non-adhesive wiring harness tape.
While I previously documented the relay setup that I am using for the wiper setup, I spent a few hours, and many blown fuses, not really understanding how the entire thing works. Relays are not complicated but not knowing exactly how the motor works and the multiple relays that are used did cause me some distress. I then found this site which explained everything in diagrams. If you are going to use my setup, please review this webpage as it really helped me understand EXACTLY how it works.
Undercoating:
Before reinstalling the body, I sprayed U-Pol Raptor Liner on the entire underside of the body and rear splash guards. It turned out great! I ended up using the full gallon just for those areas — others seem to get both the body and bonnet done with a gallon, but this was my first time using the product, so I’ll chalk that up to inexperience.
A few tips for anyone planning to do this:
- Mask everything carefully. The spray travels farther than you’d expect and will get places you would never guess. I actually spent way more time masking than spraying.
- Work in a wide-open area. You will thank yourself later.
The kit I purchased included a TCP Global spray gun (different from the U-POL version). I followed their PSI recommendations but adjusted the nozzle tip until I found the texture I liked. There are a few “bright” spots that are only visible in the right light, but overall, I’m very happy with the finish.
Before applying the liner, I installed FatMat Rattletrap under the cowl, following the lip all the way down to the lower edge near the exhaust exit. I also added some under the sill plate area — just far enough to let the sill frame rails slide underneath without raising the height. The goal is to cut down on both heat and noise. If you’re doing the same, make sure to scuff the Rattletrap or apply a primer before spraying the Raptor Liner, per the instructions. Once sprayed, it blends perfectly — you’d never know it was underneath.
Attachment 220816
Headliner Installation:
Next up was the headliner. I’ll be honest — the manual leaves a lot to be desired here. It doesn’t specify how far to run the material down the door pillars, around the outer roof edges near the seats, or down the hatch area. After searching forums and Google with little luck, I decided to:
- Run the headliner just to the end of the door pillars, stopping where they meet the flat section of the cowl.
- In the hatch area, end it at the first corner when viewed from the rear of the car.
Before installing the headliner, I applied FatMat Rattletrap to all areas it would cover (including the cowls) and ran a bead of caulk along every corner to eliminate gaps and get clean, crisp edges.
For a first-time headliner installation job, it turned out perfect. The contours are tight, the corners are smooth, and it completely changes the feel of the interior and I am glad I installed it. If I was to do it again, I would prob look for a different material and ran it the entire length of the car, including the hatch area:
Attachment 220814
Body Reinstallation:
Finally — after a few weeks of delay — the body is back on! I had previously test-fitted it, so this time it was just a matter of dialing in the height and side-to-side alignment at the rear, then using my previously placed temporary self-tapping screws to line up the front. I’m sure I’ll need a few final tweaks once the bonnet is on, but it feels great to see the car coming together again.
For anyone doing this for the first time, I measured 16 ¼ inches side-to-side on both wheel wells, taken from the top of the shock to the outside edge of the wheel well. Seeing the car all back together reminded me just how good this thing looks — the light at the end of the tunnel is definitely getting brighter.
Attachment 220815
Looking good! I used the U Pol gun and it was a mistake, that stuff went everywhere.
As I previously posted, I had the normal air cleaner fitment issues. I tired resolving the problem by measuring the gap between the top of the Sniper and the hood - came out to about 2 1/4 inches. I then went through numerous air cleaners to try to make things fit. Each failed for different reasons.
After talking to my engine builder, I was turned on to carb hats. I then went through string of carb hats - mostly from Spectre - that did not fit for numerous reasons (either too tall or too wide). My last attempt was an ATI ProCharer Low-Profile Carb Bonnet which fit under the hood and bought a coupler, 45, straight, and a 90 intake tubing along with a Spectre Air Filter and clamps from Amazon.
Attachment 226438
I have not run it on the road yet so I am not 100 percent sure that it will get enough air but my engine builder said he is confident this will work. Will look at my air/fuel ratio when I get it on the road to confirm everything is functioning as expected. For now, this issue is now resolved.
Interesting solution. It looks like that should work