Project Deimos: An LS '65 Coupe Build: Engine no longer overheating!

Mounted the AC condenser.

Lots of talk on the forum about interference with the hood hinges. Its kind of hard to wrap my head around right now without attempting to mount the hood, so I've just followed general advice of mounting the condenser as far to the driver's side as possible. Trimmed that side of the condenser to try to reduce hinge interference. The bottom hose fitting routes easily to the inside of the radiator tunnel (another general recommendation).

I've purchased some 0.185 inch thick steel perforated plate to make a shield for the bottom of the radiator that I'll be confident will withstand the inevitable chunk of asphalt or racoon carcass that I run over. That lower radiator is practically the front bumper of this car, 3 inches off the ground.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1728178716







Mounted the AC unit in the footbox. Some say it can be mounted square to the frame, but I couldn't figure out how to do that without making the fittings/hoses more difficult to route. I'm fine with it diagonal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1728178716


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1728178716

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1728178716






Used 5/16" Rivet nuts and long button head screw/bolts to mount the Tilton 3 chamber reservoir to the frame. I'm using nylon braded hose with AN fittings to run to the master cylinders because I really don't like rubber hoses - just don't like the look. I'll be trying to minimize rubber hoses, or cover them up with nylon covers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1728178732







Made some hood rollers based on Paul's diagrams. I wanted to do these early and get them mocked up before doing any panel powder coating. Glad I did, because the footbox panels needed trimming. I misremembered what thickness of aluminum Paul used and made mine out of quarter inch plate (Paul used 1/8") so making the bend was kind of a difficult, but I got it done. I'll drill the final bolt holes after I try them out with the hood on to set depth.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1728178716

Made the trunk box lid using 0.06 inch aluminum, a stainless piano hinge, a little 4.4lb gas strut and a boat locker latch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1728178732

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1728178732






Have been practicing with my Eastwood flaring tool and Rigid bender, preparing to make stainless steel brake lines, and eventually fuel lines.

My practice double flares on the kit steel brake lines look great. But my stainless flares don't look as nice. I can't seem to avoid either having tiny cracks or pits in the flare surface. They have gotten a bit better, but I'm still not confident they won't leak.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1728178732

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1728178732



Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I could not get my hood to close properly without the rollers. My hood has an extreme cup to it and wants to turn inwards. Definitely a necessity to keep the paint from getting destroyed.

My unsolicited advice? Ditch those lines and go Nicopp, cheap, easy to bend by hand in the car and they’ll outlive that car. And perfect flares every time with that tool. I didn’t have a single leak afterwards.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kbl7td

I could not get my hood to close properly without the rollers. My hood has an extreme cup to it and wants to turn inwards. Definitely a necessity to keep the paint from getting destroyed.

My unsolicited advice? Ditch those lines and go Nicopp, cheap, easy to bend by hand in the car and they’ll outlive that car. And perfect flares every time with that tool. I didn’t have a single leak afterwards.

---

You're probably right about the Nicopp. Hell, the steel lines from the kit probably would be fine too since this car will never see rain.

I already bought the stainless lines, so I'll keep practicing and see if I can get better. My idol, Mr EdwardB, just makes everything look so easy. Haha

I had the same issue and an old timer told me to use the single flare with the stainless tube sleeves and nuts. They worked out well.

Mike Brake explains it well in this recent post.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ht=Brake+lines

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by burchfieldb

I had the same issue and an old timer told me to use the single flare with the stainless tube sleeves and nuts. They worked out well.

Mike Brake explains it well in this recent post.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ht=Brake+lines

---

If I can't get my double flares better, the 37 degree single flare and AN fittings is what I plan to do. What's another $150 of fittings at this point anyway?


I forgot to mention, I am using double annealed, 0.028" walled tube from In-line Tube in 6 foot straight lengths

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/ss3166

I used the same, as well as trying multiple different flaring tools. I even purchased preflared lines and one of the ends on each tube had the same cracking issue. At that point, I was so far down the rabbit hole that I went with the 37 degree fittings.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by burchfieldb

I used the same, as well as trying multiple different flaring tools. I even purchased preflared lines and one of the ends on each tube had the same cracking issue. At that point, I was so far down the rabbit hole that I went with the 37 degree fittings.

---

Dang guys, not giving me much hope here!

Okay, I give up. Another dozen trial double flares, another dozen cracked flares. I've tried a bunch of different methods, including following EdwardB's rec's to the Tee, but no success.

I'm committed to the stainless lines, but I'm going to pivot to the 37 degree single flares and AN fittings.




While I figure out what fittings I need to order, I finished making my nylon braided hoses for the reservoirs to the master cylinders. This was my first time doing AN hoses and it went pretty well. Actually was a lot of fun. I'm using all Fragola products. I'm not exactly sure why, but this website https://eliteracefab.com/ seems to have most Fragola stuff 50% off what you'd pay at Summit. I've made two purchases from them and they've been great.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1728261683






I wanted to make the fuel pump actually accessible. The tiny little access panel was never going to do after changing out to the Pro-M hanger, if I ever did need to change out the pump. So I made a larger access.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1728261683

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1728261683

Great progress, Jim. Some good ideas--thanks for posting them.

This week I made the decision to back away from my planned 3/8" SS hardlines for my fuel lines (I'll explain in a future post). Not sure if I'll stay with my plan for SS for the brake lines either (Ni-Copp is looking better and better). Unfortunately, I already have a 25' roll of SS 3/16" tubing. Looking forward to seeing how your 37 deg. option comes along.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

Great progress, Jim. Some good ideas--thanks for posting them.

This week I made the decision to back away from my planned 3/8" SS hardlines for my fuel lines (I'll explain in a future post). Not sure if I'll stay with my plan for SS for the brake lines either (Ni-Copp is looking better and better). Unfortunately, I already have a 25' roll of SS 3/16" tubing. Looking forward to seeing how your 37 deg. option comes along.

---

I'll be interested to hear why you decided against the stainless fuel hardlines.

I received my AN/37 degree fittings for the brake lines.

I've been reading (or trying to - there is very little info) about using the Eastwood tool for 37 degree flares. I bought the 37 degree die upgrade, but I've been reading some opinions that it doesn't produce very good flares and that I should get a Rigid tool. I really don't want to spend another $150 on another tool

Anyone have experience with the Eastwood tool doing 37 degree flares?

I started with the Eastwood tool and then returned it since I could not get it to produce the double flares. I ended buying the Rigid tool and it works well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by burchfieldb

I started with the Eastwood tool and then returned it since I could not get it to produce the double flares. I ended buying the Rigid tool and it works well.

---

I wish I had done more research before sinking $300+ into the Eastwood tool and 37 degree die pack. This was an example of "follow the leader" without doing my own research. I would have gotten the Rigid tools straight away if I had.

Lesson learned.

I'll practice some with the Eastwood tool and see how the 37's go

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimStone

I wish I had done more research before sinking $300+ into the Eastwood tool and 37 degree die pack. This was an example of "follow the leader" without doing my own research. I would have gotten the Rigid tools straight away if I had.

Lesson learned.

I'll practice some with the Eastwood tool and see how the 37's go

---

I never tried to do double flares with stainless, only nicop and they worked great (using my K Tool flaring tool). For my AN flares I used the Rigid tool and have no leaks 5 years later - it works great. I am not sure I even realized I could get the 37 degree dies at the time so maybe ignorance was bliss?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimStone

Regarding the seats, I actually won't have to modify the cockpit aluminum or cut off the seat belt tab. To make the seats fit back far enough for me (6'2") I was able to trim the reclining mechanism to gain an inch, then bent the seat belt tabs out some. I've been working on some custom seat mounts.

---

@JimStone,

Ordering these seats today. I was looking at these when I ordered by Coupe due to the reported issues with the Corbeau.

Can you advise what you did to "trim the reclining mechanism"? I have ~6' 1" so I am a little concerned, too.

Thanks,

Justin

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wedel456

@JimStone,

Ordering these seats today. I was looking at these when I ordered by Coupe due to the reported issues with the Corbeau.

Can you advise what you did to "trim the reclining mechanism"? I have ~6' 1" so I am a little concerned, too.

Thanks,

Justin

---

I think you'll be happy with the Braum seats. They look great and seem to be well made.

I used a die grinder with a 3 inch cut off wheel to trim the plastic housing for the reclining mechanism. I did have to get a little into the steel part of the mechanism, but not too much and certainly wouldn't compromise any significant strength.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1728856700


The trimming allowed the seat to sit back another inch or two. For me, at 6'2", this was necessary.

But with the seat mounted you can't even see the backside of the mechanism, so it does not show.

I'm working on my brake lines, which is going well now that I pivoted from 45 degree double flares to 37 degree single flares. The Eastwood tool is working well for this on the stainless lines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1729742319



Based on some recommendation from this board, I got the Koul Tools lapping tool to clean up the flare as best as possible. I'd like to do everything I can to reduce the chance of brake fluid leaks. Unfortunately, this is the size for brake lines only. The one that would work on the 3/8" fuel lines is only included in a package that is $150 (!!!) so I'm not getting that. I'm less concerned about fuel leaks since it's low pressure.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1729742319


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1729742319







I'm almost done with installing the brake lines. Just have to redo one line because I screwed up a bend and put a kink I don't like.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1729743328



The above bend was me attempting to make a last minute adjustment with a line already installed in the car with one of those pliers type tube bender, which was a bad idea.



The rest of the bends I've used the Rigid bender, Model No. 403, which is awesome


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1729743489

Opinions needed! Which one third brake light?!






https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1729742334



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1729742334



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1729742334

Interesting. I like the diode pattern on the top one but prefer the size of the bottom one. The middle is a non-starter for me. I am going to be doing the same but haven't gotten that far along, Did you look at edwardB's light he installed? I believe he used a Maxxima light bar.

Choose the one that suits you but do choose one. IMO, these cars sit so low that you need something up high. I agree with PNWTim.

Jim

Here's mine lit up for reference:

Attachment 205691

Thanks to Amazon Prime Free overnight delivery, I added a 4th option (2nd from the top)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1729900184


I think it's your's, Lewma - United Pacific 38947B 12" 14 LED.




So we have the following options:

Top: 17" Trunk Tailgate Light for Trucks from iJDMTOY.com. (Which I now see is probably rebranded United Pacific LED Taillight Bars 37090)

2nd from top: United Pacific 38947B 12" 14 LED

2nd from bottom: United Pacific dual function GLO light bar, 12" 24 LED

Bottom: United Pacific 38943B 9" 10 LED

United Pacific 38947B 12" 14 LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYVVTN2...p_mob_ap_share

I like the 2nd from bottom. More of a solid across look. I'm not sure it would be the best with whatever brake lenses you choose though.

I am also in the camp of the solid bar look

Out of those options, I like the Glo bar best.

Mine
Attachment 205907

Thanks for the opinions guys.

I think I've settled on doing one of the two 12 inch light bars.

The 17" is too big, and 9 inch maybe not bright enough. I didn't try a 15 inch, which I think is what EdwardB has, but I think I've bought enough brake lights for now!


Completed running the brake lines and nearly finished with the 3/8" SS fuel lines. Much easier now that I have the hang of flaring and bending. Will post pictures when complete.

Have watched this series of comments with interest. I think a third brake light on Coupe builds is important. They are very low and many people have commented to me how much easier it is to see with the higher third light. I don't think the exact one is critical. Whatever your personal tastes dictate. As mentioned, mine is a Maxxima, specifically M63319R, 15" wide, embedded into the spoiler. What I like about this one is that it's partially lit with the running lights. Then fully lights with the brakes. For even more visibility. Maybe others do the same thing. Did this YouTube during my build.

https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8

I installed the parking/emergency brake cables, but had two problems:


1) The first cables were way too long.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1732253157

Factory Five quickly sent me out the correct ones (love their customer service )



2) More concerning.

After just a few times engaging the parking brake, the cable liners have frayed, exposing the bare cable. Look closely at the picture below where the cables enter the sleeve. It's a pinch point due to the hard angle the cable is forced when engaging the lever.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1732253175

I'm worried there will eventually be binding in the parking brake.


Anyone else have this problem?

I can't speak from personal experience assembling as yet but just looking at those pictures, the bushings need an inside radius to prevent that. Even then a tougher sheath may by in order?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PNWTim

I can't speak from personal experience assembling as yet but just looking at those pictures, the bushings need an inside radius to prevent that. Even then a tougher sheath may by in order?

---

Thanks Tim. I'll try rounding the edges.

Do you think those cables are shot now that the sheath is peeled back? I'm envisioning rust and eventually binding. But maybe I'm overthinking this.

I'd really like to not have to replace them.

Let me take a picture of my cables, I’m not sure why everyone has problems with this. My opinion is that factory five is supply even the wrong cables, I think I ordered like 93 mustang cables or something. BC94840

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimStone

Thanks Tim. I'll try rounding the edges.

Do you think those cables are shot now that the sheath is peeled back? I'm envisioning rust and eventually binding. But maybe I'm overthinking this.

I'd really like to not have to replace them.

---

When it comes to motorcycles, a cable like that is shot. Parking brake, maybe not? Maybe the 93 Mustang cables are the way to go. I just looked through Paul B's. thread and his exit the bushing? at some angle as well:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1517438030

He makes a comment about having to lengthen the mounting point.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kbl7td

Let me take a picture of my cables, I’m not sure why everyone has problems with this. My opinion is that factory five is supply even the wrong cables, I think I ordered like 93 mustang cables or something. BC94840

---

Oh thanks. BC94840 cables are only $17 apiece, free shipping on Amazon. I'll probably end up replacing them then

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PNWTim

When it comes to motorcycles, a cable like that is shot. Parking brake, maybe not? Maybe the 93 Mustang cables are the way to go. I just looked through Paul B's. thread and his exit the bushing? at some angle as well:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1517438030

He makes a comment about having to lengthen the mounting point.

---

I didn't lengthen the mounts. Maybe I should have. It was definitely tight the first few pulls until it kind of equilibrated. Now it's okay.

But I didn't realize I was destroying the cables until too late.

I picked up a Weize Group 35 AGM battery. I did this without much knowledge about the product, but the reviews I found were good.

The price is just SO much better it makes me worried.

But man, its 1/2 the price of an Optima! And it's not like Optima has a great reputation recently.

You buy it straight from the manufacturer. Free shipping. It arrived 2 days later.

https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...xoCz2AQAvD_BwE




Anyone own this brand before?


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1732409816







I modified the battery tray that came with the kit. And bent a piece of 0.125 aluminum plate for a mounting strap.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1732409816


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1732409816


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1732409816

I have no experience with that particular brand but I am a fan of AGM batteries. I personally have a yellow top in my 69 Camaro and keep it on a NOCO tender that has an AGM setting. Batteries any more seem to be hit or miss depending on what year it is. I still like Optimas but I had a red one die after just a couple of years. I know others on the forum are using Odyssey which have their own problems so you probably are good to go with whatever you are comfortable.

Jim I have the same geometry on the e-brake cables. I made a tapered shim to go on the aft side of the bracket which now presents the cables at the correct angle. To secure the cable I took the little sheet metal "keeper" with the prongs on it and I cut down the prongs to make the same new angle as created with the shim. this worked well, no more scraping the liner off the cables

John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JMo

Jim I have the same geometry on the e-brake cables. I made a tapered shim to go on the aft side of the bracket which now presents the cables at the correct angle. To secure the cable I took the little sheet metal "keeper" with the prongs on it and I cut down the prongs to make the same new angle as created with the shim. this worked well, no more scraping the liner off the cables

John

---

Thanks for the suggestion John. Would you be able to to post a picture of what you did? I'm having trouble visualizing it.

I need to do something or the cable will fray and bind