Testing the DIY Tubing Straightener
I previously mentioned making a DIY tubing straightener I copied from a design I found on YouTube. Yesterday, it was finally time to test it on the 3/8" SS tubing I'll be using for my supply and return fuel lines. It worked well.
If you have absolutely nothing better to do, here's a one-minute video of me straightening my first 6' section of tubing. The genius of this design is that it's vice mounted. This makes it easy to finely adjust the two sets of pulleys to press against the tube with just the right amount of clamping force. Not too much. Not too little.
Next comes the challenging part (for me): forming the tubes to run through the left side of the transmission tunnel as others have done. I really struggled to bend the brake tubing on my Roadster build. Multidimensional thinking is not my forte. I suspect this time will be no different. I will have to estimate the location of the jog for T-56 shifter clearance, as I don't yet have my transmission. Thankfully, there are pictures from others who've already done this.
Note: after this post, I noticed the 3/8" SS tubing I straightened was distorted. It appears I applied too much pressure to the pulleys, and now the tubing is oval in spots. I tried additional pieces, eating most of the way through the 25' roll of tubing without good results. Huge bummer! Probably just my inexperience/lack of skill, as I'm sure this DIY tool will work if done correctly. Stepping back to consider this, I decided to wave the white flag on stainless, and go with SS braided PFTE for fuel lines, and Ni-Cop for brake lines.
See below for additional details on what happened.
Fuel Tank Progress. Fuel Line Fail.
Fuel Line Fail
Bad news first--not bad, really. Just disappointing. My attempt at 3/8" SS tubing is a Fail. Why? I believe the root cause is my handy dandy DIY straightener (and I was so proud of it!). However, after several attempts, I found the straightener is pressing the tube into an oval shape. I believe this is caused by a slight misalignment between the pulleys as they face each other. One side of pulleys sits >1/16 inch above the other row. Just bad quality control in the straightener manufacturing process (by yours truly). I think the straightener would work fine otherwise, but do keep in mind the amount of pressure from the vise.
I could either re-make/fix my straightener (time), and buy more SS tubing ($$). Or, go with the SS braided option (like I did on my Roadster build). I chose to go braided. Plus, I was able to return the pricey Tube Swage Let-Lok connectors (for the hardline) to cover the braided hose. Big thanks to Mark at Breeze for helping out! A great forum vendor, he is (in my best Yota impersonation)! Ultimately, I decided not to make 3/8" SS tubing a career project. There are so many other challenges I'm looking forward to in this build. Moving on.
Fuel Tank Progress
The fuel tank install was pretty straight forward overall. The new parts for me are the Pro-M hangar, Walbro pump, and Trick Flow filter. New to me, but far from new on this forum.
Straightening the raised lip on the front of the tank (per instructions) so the 3/4" square tube will snug up flush. I tried these clamps (HF specials), and they worked pretty good.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1728944255
I found this Walbro power connector that snaps into the fuel pump for a solid connection. Less than $10.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1728944255
Here is a view of the hangar and pump together, ready to be installed (part numbers for everything below). The Molex crimp and seal butt connectors are not cheap, but I trust Edwardb's recommend for this application. The fuel filter sock is not attached in this picture, but it was before going into the tank. I was glad to see Walbro supplied pinch style clamps, as I had a worm-drive clamp fail early on my Roadster. The pinch tool is something I have on hand for lawn sprinkler repair.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1728944255
The bracket that secures the filler tube caught me off guard. Something I've read about in the past, but had since forgotten. Others have improved upon this setup (e.g. JimStone, Edwardb), but I'm calling F5's design functional and good enough. Admittedly, dropping the tank full of gas in the future would be a pain in the hind quarters, because it's not easy to get an Allen wrench in there to loosen the bracket (filler tube and bracket must be removed for tank install and removal).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1728944255
Placement of the Trick Flow fuel filter similar to others.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1728944292
Here's what the Trick Flow looks like with the cannister cover removed. Talk about easy maintenance for fuel filter replacement!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1728944255
IRS vent (<$10), and fits perfectly in the F5 supplied IRS breather hose. (Thanks, Fman!).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1728945828
Part numbers and a few musings
- Tank straps - rear bolts: used SS 5/16" again. The hoops in the straps are too small for the provided 3/8" bolts. I'm sure I could bang them in--removing plenty of paint in the process. Plus, difficult to remove when/if I need to remove the straps (had to a few times during my Roadster build-up).
- Tank straps - front bolts: bought 3/8"-18 x 2.5" socket heads. I know there are workarounds, but I'm not going to mess around again trying to get the straps closed over the bolt with the too short (2.25)" kit-supplied bolts. Especially, since I seem to pull the tank off/on more times than I care to admit during the build up. Probably not an issue for other builders.
- Tank filler gasket: Ford F4ZZ-9072-DA. This is a highly recommended/documented upgrade. There have been a number of leakage reports on the forum. Easy and cheap insurance to do now.
- Fuel level sender: measured 15 ohms (empty) and 160 ohms (full) as expected. Similar to my Roadster.
- Walbro fuel pump (Now TI Automotive (P/N: GSS340BX): 255 lph
- Pro-M Racing hangar (1986 – 1997 Mustangs) with 3/8" inlet/outlet and 6AN female connections
- Walbro wiring harness (VPN-94-615). Shown above. Clicks into the pump connector
- Molex 19164-0077, Perma-Seal™ Heat Shrink & Crimp Step-Down Butt Connector (Del City). Cut the wires to length so they're not resting or making contact with the hangar.
- Light coating of motor oil on the round gaskets (not the square edged ones), and tightened retaining rings with channel locks. "Use the O-ring [gaskets] included with the kit not the square profiled O-ring sent with the sender"
- Got the fuel pump and bracket assembly installed without having to notch the tank opening. Great tip from Rsnake showing this was possible! Check out his build video #14, around the 11 minute mark.
- Bought a Dorman vent for the IRS breather hose end (see picture above). I don't like the idea of leaving it open.
P.S. My Gen 4X ECU just arrived. A quick glance and so far it looks identical to the Gen 3 (same/similar DBW accelerator pedal, O2 sensors, etc.).
Swarf. Shavings. Filings. Chips. (Panel Fitting)
As I was waiting for SS braided fuel line from Breeze, I turned to panel fitting. Yes, swarf is a new term to me. According to the ever trusty inter-webs, it's a term synonymous for the shavings, filings, chips, etc. that pile up from from drilling, grinding, machining, etc. That's pretty much what I've been doing over the last couple of weeks. Creating an abundance of swarf.
- Wilwood pedal assembly: install was pretty straight forward per F5 instructions. I had to file down the brake and clutch switch mounting tabs, so they would lay flat. Top triangle bracket didn't quite square up to the diagonal cross member--see picture below. So, I added some spacers (washers) to shim the gap--see picture.
- Top of footbox panels. It only took me 11 rivnuts for the left footbox cover panel. That is, before I asked myself why not simply tap the chassis for these 10-32 SS button heads? D'Oh! Forehead slap! That panel can feel like one-of-a-kind, because the rest of the panels are fastened without rivnuts. One more thing (translate as palm smacking forehead again!): I managed to locate one of the holes directly (and I mean directly) above one of the 1/4"-20 bolts used to secure the triangle pedal box bracket to the diagonal cross member--picture below. I can now say from experience SS bolts don't like to be tapped. The fix? Low profile 10-32 weld nut--see picture below. That first panel almost became a career project. Sheesh!
- Engine bay panels: next up was making up four engine bay panels that sit forward of the footboxes (as others have done). I think it makes for a clean looking engine bay. Easy to pull off if access is needed by removing a few 10-32 screws. I also made a panel for the area above the transmission tunnel. A clean look IMHO.
- Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator (40-75 PSI; 13129) and gauge (0-100 psi; 15633 - not yet installed). I mounted it in a location I've seen others use. Easy access for the fuel line connections. The socket head screws supplied for the mount use a 9/64" hex bit (i.e. allen wrench), not a common size.
- At this point both footboxes are fitted for all their panels, as well as the above mentioned additional panels I made.
Left side footbox. Here you can see shims for the pedal assembly bracket, as well as the low profile weld nut to fix my mislocated hole. Attached the weld nut with JB Weld (what else?) after removing the powder coat for a good bond.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1731624326
Here's a view looking down on the additional panels I made. These will be powder coated to match the chassis black, once I have my first batch ready. I dig the SS button head contrast against the black.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1731624044
Aeromotive pressure regulator is mounted with two 10-32 screws. That particular chassis member isn't very thick for tapping. So, I ran the holes through both sides, and secured with nuts. The panel above the transmission tunnel is also visible.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1731624044
The footboxes sure have a lot of gaps--here's just one example on the right side FB. No doubt a more professional install could minimize them, but they're still there. Wondering what others have done to close these gaps?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1731624276
Moving on to the cockpit panels.
Panel fitting: the next chapter. Rear hatch floor and Trunk Box.
Might as well continue flinging more swarf and chips. Seems a little more efficient to continue with panels since all of the tools are out, and the vacuum is nearby.
I'm wrapping up the trunk area, including a trunk box. Again, no trailblazing here, but the box was fun. I doubt the extra utility from the additional space is a good trade for the hours I have into it so far. But the fun factor is the ROI for me.
The rear hatch floor went in pretty straight forward. The forward piece is a powder-coat-scratching you-know-what to get in/out. I had the pleasure a number of times, as I took it out to nibble away clearances for welds around the upright chassis tubes. Touch up paint required.
Trunk Box
- Materials: four sides from .040 5052 (better for bending). Bottom and lid from .063 6061 to add some rigidity. A couple 12" stainless piano hinges from McMaster-Carr (1582A216 - without holes).
- Dimensions: per forum wisdom I also went with 23"(L) x 16"(W) x 5.5"(D). That does not include the 1" flange for the four sides. To my chagrin, I had another "Der De Der" moment. The bottom and top pieces should not be sized identically. The top should be a bit wider--just enough to extend past the sides and rear of the opening. Realization only came after I cut both pieces. To fix, I trimmed 1/2" off the length of the bottom.
- Placement: I ended up about 7 1/8" from the left rearmost 1.5" cross tube; 13" from the right rearmost corner; 2 3/4" forward of the same cross tube. This provides the ample clearance from the raised section on the right hand side of the gas tank. The forward flange rides on top of the 3/4" crossbar, which by the way is not square in my case. I'm guessing it warped during the welding process. It added extra challenge to square the box.
- Cut out perimeter of trunk box using aluminum disc on my cutoff wheel. To locate the hole, I held the box in position with clecos. This allowed me to trace the opening from underneath. (Removed a side panel, so with marker in hand I could trace the perimeter from below).
- Bending boo boo: I hoped to bend all four sides (side panels) with my 30 inch brake. Despite my best intentions, I fell short. I feel pretty dumb, because it's so obvious now. To overcome my bending boo boo, it was all available clamps on-deck--see pix below. I should have made the long bends with the 30" brake first. Next, I should have made the short bends with a 6" hand brake. (Trip to Harbor Freight to buy the handheld seamer/brake tool recommended by Edwardb [$20]).
- Tools: a tool setup I recently added to the arsenal is a portable bandsaw mounted to a Swag table. Works great for shorter cuts (up to ~6"). For the longer cuts, I'm using a jigsaw (or cutoff wheel). For the small detailed cuts (e.g. trunk box tubing cut outs) I'm using a Dremel. A few different hand files to smooth and straighten the edges. I can see where a proper bandsaw would be really nice for this metal work. Someday...maybe ($$$$!). Circle cutter attachment on the drill to cut out the curved ends of the Sender access hole.
- Tube openings: again, despite careful measurements, a couple of my tube openings steadily grew larger as I returned to the bench time and again to whittle away material until the box fit as squarely as possible. I will make a couple patches to tighten-up the gaps.
- Pump and Sender access holes: I like the idea of easy access to both, so cut out an oval hole in the bottom for the Sender. I made it an inch shorter in length (6") than the factory size (7"). Installed 10-32 rivnuts (6 ea) to secure the covers.
- Lid: work in progress. Bought a couple 12" SS hinges to attach to the forward edge. Clearance around the leftmost diagonal will be a factor.
Bending boo-boo: this is what it took to make the long bend of the first side panel because I didn't anticipate it wouldn't lay flat on the brake due to the short side bends made first. Why didn't I foresee this? So obvious now, of course. Thankfully, that bend is hidden beneath the hatch floor--it isn't pretty. Wasn't a problem with the other side panel, because I picked up a small handheld brake.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1735586489
Portable bandsaw mounted on a swag table. Has come in very handy for short cuts on panels, but also many other uses like shortening SS screws (which I seem to have to do a lot!).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1735586400
Bottom view of the box. Ready for fitting around the diagonal cross tubes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1735586489
And the trunk box finally located after much trimming. Will close a couple gaps next to the right diagonal with small patch panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1735586489
View of the trunk box in position with hatch floor cut out. Rivet nuts used to secure access covers. Also, here are the handheld brake and circle cutter I used.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1735586539
The 5.5" depth of the box gives about 2.5" of clearance from the lowest point on the tank. Plenty of clearance for the Sender wiring plug/harness, etc.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1735586489
While I was in the area, drilled through the chassis tube to allow easy drop-in of the screw that anchors the fill tube bracket. Otherwise, the screw head is sandwiched between that tube and the lip of the tank.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1735586489
Next up is installing the lid with a couple hinges. Then on to wrap-up the cockpit panels.
Trunk Box and Cockpit Complete
Trunk box lid: I bought my first set of SS piano hinges from the hardware store. They came with pre-drilled holes, but those holes weren't going to line up with the existing holes I already drilled into the 3/4" cross tube that runs left<-->right. So, back to McMaster for a set of 12" hinges with no holes. The McMaster hinges cost more, but are thicker, and higher quality. Bonus.
I aligned the hinges to the existing holes in the 3/4" tube and (1) drilled the forward side holes. Then, (2) I pre-drilled the other side of the hinges. Then, (3) aligned the trunk box lid and drill through the hinge holes and the .063 6061 lid aluminum at the same time. The lid rotates back far enough that it will stay open on its own. Good. Of course, the hatch glass will need to be open for lid clearance. Trunk box is officially done: well, except for powder coating, Thermo-tec, and carpet.
Cockpit panels (and general observations)
- Weld clearancing: my panels required a lot of clearancing (is that a word?) around welds. Seemingly, more than my Roadster build. But I want the panels to lay flat, so lots of grinding and filing around the weld joints. I used a Dremel (cutoff wheel and sanding drum), round carbide burr bit on the drill, and flat file, for most of it. See example of the rear cockpit wall below.
- Panel bends: A number of the panels had at least one bend too shallow. Unfortunately, my 30" brake isn't an option because the panel must be flat to use it. So, it gets interesting to make the adjustment, e.g. steel bar stock and clamps as I noted in my last post. However, the 6" hand bender from HF proved helpful in this task, even on some of the longer bends because they only needed a few degrees of adjustment.
- Angled cover - trans tunnel: this was an odd one to drill. The 1" square tube is rotated (30 degrees?), so it doesn't sit square for drilling. Visions of broken drill bits and powder coat scarring filled my head. Good news: the two layers of aluminum (cover and side panels) acted as a drill guide. So, I was able to drill holes at an angle. To my surprise it all worked out just fine.
- More 1/8" clecos? Thought for sure I had plenty with one build under my belt. Nope. It must be because I'm leaving more panels mocked in place longer on this build. Bought another 50 from Aircraft Spruce ($0.99 ea). That puts me at 150 in total. I also have ten 3/16" clecos.
- Drill: Except for the tight spaces that require an angle drill, my 25+ year old Black and Decker corded drill is the workhorse for panel installs. It gives better feedback when the bit is about to break through the metal. It's just a better drilling experience than my Milwaukee battery-powered drills. Yeah, dragging the cord around isn't as convenient, but for the hundreds of chassis holes in these builds, for me it's the right tool for the job. Don't forget the cutting fluid. I pour some into a cap, then dip the tip of the bit into the cap when starting each hole. For the thicker chassis tubes, I dip it a second time half way through.
Trunk box lid mocked in place (closed).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1736619537
View with lid open. Can't really tell from this picture, but it rotates back far enough to stay open on its own.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1736619537
Here's just one example of clearance needed for the rear cockpit panel to lay flat. Lots of trips back and forth to the bench to grind away a little at a time.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1736619489
Drilling into these trans tunnel support tubes at an angle was interesting. It worked out just fine.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1736619489
View of cockpit panels--forward looking. Trans tunnel top cover is not drilled yet. It's just sitting in place. Will wait until after the drivetrain is installed to see what I'm dealing with for shifter placement. Plus, there won't be a hole for the e-brake handle, as I have the Wilwood electric parking brake.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1736619489
View of cockpit panels--looking rearward. I drilled the rear corner panels. I'm not completely sure if there's any harm in doing so now? I know they go in permanently after the body is on, but I'd rather not be drilling these panels at that point in the build.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1736619489
Left side of cockpit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1736619489
Trunk Box and Cockpit Complete (continued)
Radiator and Panels Installed
Still plugging away at panels. Moving to the front, I tackled the radiator duct, side panels, and radiator install. Again, nothing much new here, but really enjoyed the process.
- Radiator sides: I did not drill the last 7 inches or so on the upper portions, because riveting in that area would introduce a pretty severe curve/bend. The duct back panel sits about 1/2" shy of the nose tubes on both sides.
- Radiator and Breeze shroud fitment: I had to go back to the build manual (AKA Edwardb's build thread) to see how to solve the shroud fitment challenge, because it comes in contact at the bottom with the radiator duct panel. Wedel did a nice job of documenting this recently, so no need to go into any detail here. I'll just say I enjoyed making the strip that sandwiches the top of the shroud to the radiator channel. In fact, I did it twice. The first one was too narrow, about 5/8" tall. The second was much better at 1".
- Radiator top mount bracket: the F5 manual threw me for a bit with the following: "Position the top mount bracket so that the small tab sticking up is on the rearward side of the bracket". I wondered if maybe my bracket was bent backwards, or was I just experiencing a low IQ moment? So, I checked out some other builders for sanity. Sure enough the tab goes on the forward edge. I don't see any other way to mount it.
- Spacers: Like JimStone, I had to make a couple spacers to fill in the space between the bracket and the 1" nose tubes. Thankfully, I had some stock .020 aluminum bar on-hand. My portable bandsaw on the Swag table made quick work of cutting out the spacers. Man, that setup is handy.
Radiator duct and side panels drilled. Wow, that back panel takes a lot of holes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1737234912
This is the solution from Edwardb which sandwiches the Breeze shroud on the top (rear) channel of the radiator. I used a couple washers to create a space of about .07 inches. So, the shroud hangs on the top channel of the radiator, and is secured on the bottom channel with a couple screws (Breeze supplies the required hardware with the shroud). I also used the Breeze shroud on my Roadster build and liked it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1737234912
These are spacers to fill the gap between the nose tube and the radiator top mount bracket. Made from some scrap .020 aluminum bar I had on hand.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1737234912
Spacer installed. Thanks to JimStone for inspiring this spacer idea!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1737234912
And, here's everything mocked in place. Will be taking off soon and adding to the pile of panels for powder coating.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1737234912
I watched the F5 unveiling of the new MK5 this morning. Some really nice changes/upgrades. Great to see them forge ahead with continuous improvement.
Brake and Clutch Reservoirs
Finally! Time to work on something other than panels. Well, sort of. I tackled the brake and clutch reservoirs. Separate reservoirs for front and rear brakes, and one for hydraulic clutch. And, yes, a panel was involved.
Using a piece of 1.5" x 1/8" thick angle aluminum, I made a mounting bracket for the reservoirs. I personally like the F5 reservoirs, but they don't fit where I wanted to install them (forward of the DS footbox). As other builders have found, some modification to the reservoir brackets are necessary. More on that in a minute.
The 1.5" angle aluminum had to be trimmed to match the reservoir brackets. I used my portable bandsaw setup (again!), and was able to roughly cut out the circular shape of the brackets. Then, clean up with the sander. How convenient it was to find my sander is exactly the right size. Nice. I'll hit the easy button when I can.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1738287111
I used 10-32 flat head screws to attach the reservoir brackets to the angled aluminum after lopping off the bracket ears. Bandsaw made quick work of the lopping. Here's a view of the bottom with the ears removed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1738287111
Top view.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1738287111
Unfortunately, my thread tap was too long to tap from the inboard side of the chassis tube. So, I used a couple 5/16" button head screws all the way through the 1.5" chassis tube to mount the bracket assembly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1738287111
Here's where the panel part comes in. I followed Wedel's method to locate the holes: cut 2.5" hole plug out of wood and place in reservoir bracket. Perfectly centers the hole saw in the aluminum panel. Thanks, Wedel!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1738287111
I think it was Rsnake's build videos where I first saw this setup. It makes for a clean install IMHO, not to mention easy access to check fluid levels. Thanks to him and the forum for the inspiration and help.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1738287266
