Yep, you convinced me last week to shy away from Sniper. Pretty sold on Edelbrock ProFlow4 at this point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
Yep, you convinced me last week to shy away from Sniper. Pretty sold on Edelbrock ProFlow4 at this point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
Thanks! I'm pretty excited to build another SBF. Getting it on the engine stand today!Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
My son and I got the short block uncrated and settled on the engine stand today. No drama. Took about 15 minutes. Man, this BOSS short block sure is sexy!!! Picked up some assembly lube at O'Reilly this AM, and will stab the camshaft in this evening! Building engines is so much fun!
Attachment 200191Attachment 200190Attachment 200189Attachment 200192Attachment 200193Attachment 200194Attachment 200195
Hydraulic roller cam?Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
I agree, I always enjoyed building my engines. First engine I ever rebuilt/built was a SBC with a 6-71 blower on it. Thought I would start with something basic and simple lol
It's such an adrenaline rush when it fires up for the first time (and you have oil pressure). Rebuilt a SBC for my daily driver one time and the machine shop didn't install the last cam bearing all the way in so didn't have oil pressure. Fortunately we didn't run it long enough to do any damage but still had to pull it out and tear it down to fix the problem. Last engine I ever built that I didn't do a pre-lube on before starting, certainly made a believer out of me!
Looking forward to following along with your build.
Yes, sir!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
I'm in a couple of 351W groups and see people building engines and planning on using hydraulic flat tappets and it blows my mind. With all of the advantages of hyd roller cams why anyone would use that ancient flat tappet technology with all the quality issues there are today, I just can't get my head around it.
What are you putting on top of it Greg?
Jeff
TFS 11R 190 heads, TFS cam, TFS 1.6 roller rockers, and I think Mike Bray has me talked into the Edelbrock Pro Flow 4 EFI setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Yep, I don't get it, either. Maybe that's just what they've always used, and they're comfortable with it. Dunno.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
Thanks for sharing those pics, I really admire the builders who also put together there own engine. I have yet to have the balls to do it! Is the Ford Racing block similar to a Dart block? I see the 4 bolt main caps. And FWIW I have 6300 miles on my 427 with the Edelbrock PF4, up to this point it has been solid.
Checking p-v clearance today, LOL. Clearly not a big enough ball of modeling clay, so I'll do it again. But, at least I know I'm not smacking valves into pistons. Pretty mild cam, for sure. This is part of Summit's MkIV 427W valvetrain combo package. Summit sent me 17 lifters, so I filled one with washers to do the test. Guessing it'll be in the 525 FWHP range.
1) TFS 11R 190CC heads
2) TFS 1.6F Roller Rockers
3) TFS Chromoly pushrods, 8.050"
4) TFS Cam .499/.510 lift
5) TFS Hydraulic Roller lifters
I'm sure I'm leaving HP on the table, but I'm not looking to run this engine on the ragged edge.
Attachment 200447Attachment 200448Attachment 200449Attachment 200450
I'm sure you're fine, I'm running 0.579" lift with flat top pistons and haven't had any issues.
https://www.imagecoast.com/images/Mi...iumrotated.jpg
2nd attempt. Still plenty of clearance. I also noticed the FMS head gaskets aren't actually totally round; they don't follow the cylinder bore at 2-o'clock and 8-o'clock. All cylinders and both sides of the block were this way. Wonder why?
Attachment 200452Attachment 200453Attachment 200454Attachment 200455Attachment 200456
I've heard a lot of good things about those heads. I'm curious about cam duration, if you don't mind sharing. I went very mild with mine. Learned my lesson a long time ago when I built a '69 Camaro. I felt that car deserved to be the most powerful car on the road...couldn't live with myself if it got walked by a rice burner. Problem is I overbuilt it and it wasn't really a good driver. So I'm making sure everything I do with this car is street friendly. I don't need to be the fastest on the road anymore. Organic clutch, quieter exhaust, milder cam...maybe I'm just getting old...Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
Keep it up!
I think the 427 Boss block is similar to the mid-level Dart block, from what I'm reading. In other words, SHP<427 Boss=Sportsman<Iron Eagle. Maybe?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fman
A good way to check PTV clearance is with a degree wheel, "checker" springs in place of the valve springs and a dial indicator set up on the retainer along with a roller lifter converted to solid, as you have already done... Start "plotting" out the PTV clearance about 20 degrees before TDC for each valve to about 10-15 degrees ATDC. Rotate the crank 5 degrees, then push the valve down until it hits the piston and take a reading on the dial indicator. Go another five degrees and repeat. When you start getting close start only rotating 1-2 degrees and take another reading. You will pick up .010 - .030 piston to valve clearance with your actual valve springs installed due to pushrod flex, rocker stud flex, etc... A buddy of mine who used to build NHRA and IHRA Pro Stock engines told me he never bothered checking the intake piston to valve clearance. He used to say as long as the engine rolled over it was enough clearance on the intake...Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
Those TFS TW heads are very nice heads. They are bigger than what the intake port volume indicates. Due to the intake valve being moved the intake runner is shorter. So even though the port volume is 190 cc the cross section is closer to what a 205 cc intake runner would normally be on a SBF.
Spent an hour or so in the shop today. Got the gasket mated to the timing cover with RTV, let it dry, trimmed it up, then coated it in RTV, then on to the block. I put the water pump on just to snug up the bolts while the RTV for the timing cover cures. Next will be the gasket between the water pump back cover and the timing cover. Also got the Milodon oil pan installed. All in all, a quality day in the shop. Probably going to start on the top end in the morning. it's been about 8 years since I built a SBF, but muscle memory is taking over.
Have a great weekend!
Greg
Attachment 200867Attachment 200868Attachment 200869Attachment 200870Attachment 200871Attachment 200872Attachment 200873Attachment 200874Attachment 200875Attachment 200876
Looking good!
I had a couple of hours today to sneak out to the shop. Finished up the water pump installation, then knocked out the heads and valvetrain. Got the heads installed and torqued, and installed the lifters, pushrods, and rockers, dogbones and spider, and got the rockers set to zero lash. It's easy but fun, repetitive work. I'm out of parts, save the valve covers, and will install them later. I have an Amazon delivery tomorrow (big Trick Flow engine storage bag), and will get it placed on the engine when it gets here. For now, I'll save my pennies for the next bit...clutch, bellhousing, TKX, etc...then the Edelbrock ProFlow 4, then front dress....getting closer!!
Have a great week, folks! Hot (102 degrees) and humid in Kansas City...already ready for Fall!
Greg
Attachment 200905Attachment 200906Attachment 200907Attachment 200908Attachment 200909Attachment 200910Attachment 200911Attachment 200912
I admire your restraint on cam selection. A lot of guys seem to go wild on the cam and while it sounds cool and pulls hard, it's just not a good overall package to live with. This is going to be both smooth and crazy fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
I hope your shop has AC...the heat has been brutal this past week!
Yeah, it's a mild cam for sure. At 2300lbs, it doesn't need much. I suspect it'll be in the neighborhood of 525-550hp, and that's plenty. My last car was a C7 Z06 with mild mods, and it made about 750hp/800ft-lbs at the crank...this should be a similar Hp to weight ratio.
Yep, my shop is nice and cool. 71 degrees in here right now! Insulated, and I have a mini split.
Spent a couple of hours in the shop today installing the rear trunk side aluminum panels, and the gas struts for the trunk. Nice day in Kansas City...80 degrees, slight breeze, and relatively low humidity. For June 30th, that's amazing. Have a great week, everyone!
Greg
Attachment 201201Attachment 201202Attachment 201203Attachment 201204
Looking good! Those are some serious tires. You anticipating any track time at some point?
Any particular reason for insulating the trunk side panels? I was originally going to insulate everything, but now rethinking that approach. I want it to feel solid but also like the minimalist approach to keeping it as light as possible. I'll probably end up insulating some of the panels strategically instead of all of it. Of course with a 427 to push you along a few extra pounds won't even be noticed... ;)
Yesterday was a yard work day for me. Taking advantage of the break in heat to trim some hedges and knock out a bunch of mowing. Back to the build today!
I'm applying Thermo-Tec to all aluminum panels, for heat insulation where appropriate, and to minimize rattles and other acoustic nonsense...basically to make it feel more solid. Not planning on any track time, but with the 427, I will have traction issues...I got the best tires I've ever had in the R888R's. They are magic on dry, warm pavement.Quote:
Originally Posted by JMD
Greg
I think those are directional tires and it looks like the right, rear is mounted for the drivers side.
I could be wrong. Your drivers, side rear looks correct.
I am going to look at a set on my GT500 and see how they look.
Later,
Yep, mine are Toyo Proxies R888's and the sipes are pointing toward the front on both sides.
I have them just on the rear of my car.
If all your tires are all the same size, you might be OK and able to correct. If the rears are a different size, one tire will need to be broken down and remounted, or buy a right side tire????
I think. I may be having one of my goofy impressions.
good luck,
Mine are R888r...different design than the R888. R888s are directional; R888r are asymmetric. On many other cars I've seen with R888r's, they are the same as mine. The tire has the word 'Outside' embossed on the sidewall, to ensure they're mounted correctly. Mine all have 'Outside' on the outside.Quote:
Originally Posted by Railroad
We would like to inform you that if the tread pattern seems to have a different orientation on either side of the car, this will not change anything with the overall performance of the tyre. There will be no problem if the grooves on one side of the car point upwards and on the other side downwards, after you fit these asymmetric tyres. The long, steep grooves on the outer shoulder of the tyres are designed to direct as much water as possible to the outside via the shortest way and therefore in shortest possible time. These tyres are designed in such a way that the water can be drained in the direction of the shoulder, to the outside, as well as in direction of the deep circumference grooves. The angle in which they run has no impact on the aquaplaning performance and the driving comfort of the tyre. '
Joe,Quote:
Originally Posted by Railroad
Greg has R888R which are asymmetrical. The old, now discontinued R888 was uni-directional. The R888R can be mounted on either side however there is an outside and an inside so the tread will be opposite side to side.
Jeff
EDIT: Oops! For some reason Greg's reply wasn't showing when I posted saying the same thing!
Looks great so far! Vicariously living through your build thread (and a few others) until I get my ducks in a row to grab a kit of my own.
Thanks! SO much fun! My kit was delivered one year ago today! My posts in this build thread are not terribly wordy, but nothing I'm doing is revolutionary, so I figure pics are clear enough to explain what I'm doing, and can be pretty helpful to others, and may help others spot my errors.Quote:
Originally Posted by fauxbra5.0
Greg
Sounds good to me. Obviously you know more about the Toyos than I did.
Glad you have everything right and no need to undo anything.
I need to take you up on the offer to see your project soon, too many projects lately myself.
I can't wait to see that engine all ready to bolt in, that thing should be beast !
Any time! Let me know.Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackDay17
Fabbed up a fancy schmancy Vapor Can from some spare parts, and some 2" PVC I had laying around. Amazon helped with the two PVC end caps and some activated carbon, for a total of $15. Sanded down the PVC to give it some tooth and hit it with several rounds of rattle can silver. Sweet! :)
Attachment 201779Attachment 201780
Got the cockpit carpet installed this weekend. I have been dreading this, because I hate installing carpet. But, I sucked it up and got it done in 4 or 5 hours over two days. I used the brush-on Weldwood contact adhesive. It worked great, and allowed some adjustment when the carpet was applied to a panel before it stuck in place. I used about a quart and a half. Not sure what I'm going to do with the top of the trans tunnel, or the rear of it. Thinking about fabbing up some sort of cubby at the rear, and maybe some sort of body color match on the trans tunnel.
I have to say, the kit-supplied carpet seems to be of better quality than I remember from my MkIII. Maybe it's the same, and maybe I'm just a bit better at this than I was 20 years ago, but I think it turned out great. I have one or two spots I'm not proud of, but they won't be visible with the seats in.
Have a great week, everyone!
Greg
Attachment 202248Attachment 202247Attachment 202249Attachment 202250Attachment 202251
Greg
Great job on the carpet. Looks good. I just finished the insulation install. I thought I'd wait on the carpet till the body work was done.
Attachment 202256Attachment 202257Attachment 202258
Installed Forte's mechanical throttle linkage today. Very high quality product. I can see that it's infinitely adjustable. A couple of things I learned:
1) The roll pins that come with the kit are essential. I haven't installed them, but they are absolutely necessary to keep things from slipping.
2) The footbox linkage needs to be cut, drilled and tapped. The instructions say nothing of this, but maybe it's implied. I cut mine to 12", drilled out with a 7/32" bit, and tapped with a 1/4-28 tap.
3) The lever that connects the gas pedal rod to the main rod that goes through the footbox wall...it hit the top of the footbox, as expected. I ground down the top of that lever, and that did the trick. See my pics to see how much I ground down, relative to the outboard lever at the other end of the main rod.
I read several posts about installing this kit, so I felt pretty confident going in. I installed the rod ends on the firewall, just above the 2x2, and ground down the washers on the inside of the firewall to get the bolts as close as I could to the 2x2. It seems plenty solid with the kit-supplied firewall. Next, I measured and cut the footbox linkage to 12", drilled and tapped (see specs above). I'm using the kit-supplied gas pedal, so I had to take it out and drill out the top hole to accept the rod end threaded post and nut. After I drilled the gas pedal, I installed the shortened rod. Next, I slid in the solid rod that goes through both rod ends on the firewall, and marked where it hit the inside wall of the footbox. I then drilled a 3/4" hole in the footbox wall, and hogged out the center of a 3/4" ID paintless dent repair plug I had (I used to do PDR for a living), and pushed the plug into place. Then slid the rod through the footbox wall. I then installed the footbox lever on the rod, and bolted everything up. Pretty simple and straightforward. Oh, I did have to grind down the footbox lever, as mentioned above. That gave it the clearance it needs to prevent rubbing the top of the footbox. I'll have to dial it all in when I get my engine installed and fired up, but for, I'm calling it done. . It looks pretty good.
Fun Sunday project. It's 98 degrees outside, but I had the shop at a comfortable 73 degrees. Can't wait for Fall, and FOOTBALL!!!
Have a great week, everyone!
Greg
Attachment 202494Attachment 202495Attachment 202496Attachment 202497Attachment 202498Attachment 202499Attachment 202500
Great job on the throttle linkage. I had the same issue with the outer lever hitting the top of the footbox. I left the lever as is and made a hole in the top of the footbox, then made a cover.
well done
Attachment 202508Attachment 202509
Way to go! I installed the same throttle linkage about a week ago, haven't put up the pics yet though. It is a quality piece with some extra work needed, but well worth the effort. I did mine over two days as the first 2 hours trying to measure and calculate the geometries and clearances started giving me a headache. You can vary the ratio of pedal travel to throttle linkage movement in all sorts of ways. I've heard to give yourself as much pedal travel as possible, so I did that for mine. I could not get the roll pins to secure properly so drilled the holes and bar then used self tapping sheet metal screws (like the ones removed from the aluminum but longer) to secure it. They are even stronger than the roll pins and are removable, which is a bonus!
Now you just need an engine to attach to it... ;)
Nice work Greg! :cool:
Craig C