Lewma's Gen3 Coupe Almost Built Thread

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Originally Posted by JimStone

Thanks Mark!

When you have a chance, please do tell about this T56 leaking situation

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Jim, just google T-56 shifter leak. It's all over the web. ( and oil is all over my transmission mount )

I'm going to give this product a try from TickPerformance.com

https://www.tickperformance.com/6-bo...xlyPnUTxYOeaEh

Here's a video. No idea if it actually works or not yet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBRGixXDn3w

I wasn't aware of this leak issue, so thanks for allerting me to it. I went ahead and got the Tick Performance shroud. Way easier to do that now than later

Thanks again

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Originally Posted by JimStone

Question for you Mark,

Do you happen to recall what your drivetrain angles were? And if you needed to adjust anything to get the crankshaft and pinion angles parallel? Like transmission mount shims, etc

My IRS diff/pinion is pointing downward 0.5 degrees (I guess this isn't common), while the crank/trans shaft is also pointed down (but in opposite direction, obviously) so I'm nowhere close to being parallel. If I add shims to the trans mount then my driveshaft angles gets crazy large since the trans is already higher than the diff.

Thought I'd ask since you have the same package as me. No worries if you don't recall.

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Jim, I had the same issue on mine. I ended up molding custom bushings for mine. Now it points up at 0.5 degs from the ground. If you are interested I can see what it would take to make another set. I had some help from the shop at the office.
Attachment 219330

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Originally Posted by burchfieldb

Jim, I had the same issue on mine. I ended up molding custom bushings for mine. Now it points up at 0.5 degs from the ground. If you are interested I can see what it would take to make another set. I had some help from the shop at the office.
Attachment 219330

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I appreciate it Brent, but I've decided to just run with what I've got.

I REALLY don't want to take the diff out, haha

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Originally Posted by JimStone

I appreciate it Brent, but I've decided to just run with what I've got.

I REALLY don't want to take the diff out, haha

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I feel your pain on that one. I think mine was in and out 5 times. None were easy.

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Originally Posted by JimStone

Thanks Mark!

When you have a chance, please do tell about this T56 leaking situation

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It is a common issue with the T56. There is a rubber seal under the shift plate. It is easily damaged which allows fluid to come up the shifter shaft around the shifter ball. Aftermarket shifters are more prone to the problem due to the tolerances being a bit different than the Tremec supplied shifter.

As a rule, I always pull the shifter cover to check the seal before installing the transmission.

Well, you guys sent me down the Internet rabbit hole with this T56 shifter leak stuff.

It's a real shame this hasn't been fixed by Tremec.

I'll be checking the seal when I pull the shifter to install the Tick Performance shroud, but it has me wondering if I should prophylactically replace the shifter altogether

The Bowler "Nightstick" gets rid of the rubber seal and uses a press fit ball-in-cup type seal

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1758812580

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1758812580

Of course it's $473

Hate to spend that kind of money, but I also don't want to deal with what Mark is dealing with

I'm going to try the $50 fix first.



Jim, did I mention your CV boots are going to leak too ?? :)

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Originally Posted by lewma

Jim, did I mention your CV boots are going to leak too ?? :)

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Welp... sh*t

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Originally Posted by lewma

I'm going to try the $50 fix first.



Jim, did I mention your CV boots are going to leak too ?? :)

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And they are a pain in the butt to replace. And they do not last that long. Someone could get rich if they could come up with a design which would last 100,000 miles without leaking/tearing. :)

Where do the boots start leaking and failing?

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Originally Posted by burchfieldb

Where do the boots start leaking and failing?

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More often than not it is due to too much grease in the boot expanding and promoting tearing/rupturing of the boot. Next up would be damage from exterior forces (rocks, road debris, and so on). Then we have general wear from high temperatures and the oils and salts from the roads causing the rubber to dry and crack.

I have tried to come up with a hard design, but am not happy with any of them, yet. The best I have, so far, is just a protective shell.

Hey Mark,

Any luck getting the Tick Performance shroud in without removing the transmission?

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Originally Posted by JimStone

Hey Mark,

Any luck getting the Tick Performance shroud in without removing the transmission?

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Hello Jim. Didn't even attempt it yet. Saving it for the next time I have to disconnect the driveshaft. There's no way I can get that shifter plate off the transmission without lowering it a little.

mark

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Originally Posted by lewma

All

Should have done this a long time ago.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3ZyXcduhUmDeDQZD8

That's my ongoing pic album that is documenting my build. No words, just pics. Hopefully the pics can provide help to other builders.

-Gen3 Coupe
-Blueprint GM427LS + T56
-IRS, AC, Power Steering


mark

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Curios what Drive by wire gas pedal you are using and did it mount in the existing bracket on the frame? thanks Tim

I used the gas pedal that came with the BluePrint GM427LS package. The mounting plate and pedal did need some trimming to get it to fit correctly. There should be pics in the link in my signature that show what I did.

The Holley DBW works well too. I only had to trim a small part so it didn't bind with the steering shaft. It's less bulky so it fits down in better than the GM pedal, in my opinion. I ended up returning the GM pedal that I had bought first

thanks Mark. My kit did not come with the pedal. I'll have to see what they have. I bought a GM pedal from Summit, but will need lots of work to make it fit.

thanks Jim - do you have a pic to see what you did?

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Originally Posted by tbuerk

thanks Jim - do you have a pic to see what you did?

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Here's a few pics:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1777347329


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1777347344


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1777347344


I think only 2 or 3 of the button head screws actually go thru the pedal bracket. The others are just there to fill holes and make it look nice


Honesty, it's like a the Holley pedal is made for this car



I swapped the actual pedal to a Breeze one that mimics the Wilwood brake and clutch pedals that come with the complete kit. I posted about it in post 79 of my build thread

Thanks Jim - appreciate the pics. I am building a MK4 and the pedal bracket looks a little different, but this gives me a good idea of what to do next. I may have to go the breeze route as well. That looks great.