Currently, It has Jegs rims, Fronts are 195/45-17 Rears are 295/50-15 but those are only temporary and what came with the car. They are being replaced with Schott Accelerators 18x9 285/40-18 & 20x11 315/35-20Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltfracing
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Currently, It has Jegs rims, Fronts are 195/45-17 Rears are 295/50-15 but those are only temporary and what came with the car. They are being replaced with Schott Accelerators 18x9 285/40-18 & 20x11 315/35-20Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltfracing
Chipping away at the "to do" list, A/C unit mounted
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5ab7f722_b.jpg20230301_190854 by F G, on Flickr
I bet I rearranged those bulkhead fittings more than a dozen times looking for what works the best.. I think i'm close. Waiting on the Comp manifold and a bracket for the drier before I can go any further.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9b9e11c4_b.jpg20230307_202222 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...201da624_b.jpg20230307_192433 by F G, on Flickr
As we used to say back in the day looking "sano".
Earl
I'm going to steal your pic to point out a question that I have.
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See the attached image: are the floorpans supposed to go on top of the bottom horizonal flange of the lower firewall pieces? (they're under in the image)
Great question, I do not know the answer. These were like this when I bought the unfinished kitQuote:
Originally Posted by TxMike64
The firewall and footbox fronts install long before the floor pieces in both the Gen 1 and Gen 2 build manuals so they would end up under....
Steve
As Steve said.Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Ditto. I had about 1/4" space between the floor and the footbox pieces. I jacked them up using a 2x4 and drilled the rivet holes. Then I gooped them with the marine adhesive, jacked them back up and 3/16 riveted them. 4 on each side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Dang, I better read that manual a little better. Mine came with the floor panel under the lip of the firewall so I assumed that was correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
Yeah, just think of the joint, one is much harder to get water through. But since you'll caulk anyway, not a huge thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Just 1 More
This is as good as it's going to get. Adding in the heater valve and drier really boogered things up for me in the clean and neat look. Once the body is on and the lower front skirts, it should hide a lot of it. So this is it until I get another brainfart and change it. I'll clean up the sleeving with heatshrink once everything is crimped.
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Something to keep in mind - you are going to have to install the door striker mount bracket after the body goes on. It goes right behind where you have your hoses going thru the fire wall and the 2 carriage bolts install from the outside pointing in. Better figure out a technique for it now or you will be hating life a little later.
Looks great, nice and tidy!Quote:
Originally Posted by Just 1 More
Steve
As I figured, the header and drier tried to occupy some of the same space so on to Revision # 43, Moved the drier to the firewall, got a 90 degree fitting to come directly off the bulkhead to the drier than a 135 degree fitting from the drier to the condenser hose. Still need to make a bracket to secure the drier to the firewall but that'll be the easy part.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ed7e7e62_b.jpg20230331_125021 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cb76a603_b.jpg20230331_125038 by F G, on Flickr
You should keep the dryer sealed up with the plugs it comes with until your ready to assemble the whole system after getting you're hoses set. The dessicant in it will absorb any moisture in the air and become saturated, then it can't do it's job for your system charge. Mine came with a 2 piece bracket and hose clamps that can be used to mount in various places. When the system is charged, you watch the sight glass on the top of the dryer for bubbles. When they stop wait 5-10 seconds and then stop charging, it's full. It should be evacuated for an hour with an AC vacuum pump before charging. If your compressor comes with the PAG oil in it you should only add 1 more ounce to the system. R134a cans are available with PAG oil in it. 1 can of that and then straight R134a. If taking it to a shop then they "should" know, but remind the Tech because I'm sure they've never done one of these before. All the cars they work on have a label that tells them how much refrigerant and oil to put in the system.
100% agree with you and pretty much figure with as many times as i've had to open the drier to change mounting and hose orientation, A new one prior to charging probably wouldn't be a bad idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
I added addition info to my post about charging your system.
Well this isn't good
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I hope the lifter is ok. Does your engine have roller rockers or flat tappet? I've seen the pushrod cup in the lifter flip out in situations like that. Good luck!
Hyd Roller, and upon further inspection after pulling the heads off.. That valve is stuck open, that rocker must have just been beating it's self to death on the valve with it stuck.. Heads are at the machine shop now getting a thorough rebuild.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
Was the valve bent or just carbon build up? Look at your piston carefully for a mark. Roll the pushrod on a flat surface to see if it's bent. The valve spring could have coil bind if not the right ones for the cam lift. Look at the others at full valve lift when you turn the engine over by hand. I don't know how adept you are at engine building so just ignore me if you know all this stuff. The rollers on the end of the rockers should be centered on the valve stem at half lift. If not you get too much side pressure on the valves. Longer or shorter pushrods would be needed to correct accordingly. You tube has a bunch of videos on the subject. Wish you the best.
It gets worse... I pulled the lifters and found "crud" in the grooves, then looking at the block with a flashlight, I can see a bunch of rusty crud in the oil passages.. Looks like someone didn't clean the block good enough after bore and hone or not at all. So the block is heading to the machine shop to join the heads. Also looks like some of the valves kissed the piston so that'll get addressed as well. Complete rebuild. Hopefully we can use the crank, rods, pistons, cam & lifters. Just disassemble, clean and reassemble with proper clearances this time. Then a good engine dyno session to dyno tune it.
Ugh. This is another of those situations where we need a button that says “I’ve been there, it really sucks, I’m sorry to hear it but it’ll be much better after you fix it”
Yup, totally sucks. My 347 lasted a couple of hours before a crack in #1 turned it into a steam engine and another rebuild.
Steve
Are you going to sell the jegs wheels and tires ,thank you
That's a tough one. At least you'll know it's right
Yeah, It wasn't money I expected to spend but now i'll know. I'm in the process of finding a transmission shop that will go through the 700R4 since I don't trust anything about this now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
Yes, When I'm done with them as rollersQuote:
Originally Posted by Ltfracing
I used to rebuild those when I was working. Did more transverse ones than anything else though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Just 1 More
So pretty i'm never taking the plastic off.. lol
big thanks to Kim & Matt Gossett @ mcbparts.com for helping me get these from Schott Wheels. It'll probably be another year before they get on the car but so happy to have them.
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Love the Bonneville style wheels, I have similar one on my 33 except gray, not black.Quote:
Originally Posted by Just 1 More
Jim
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I've been taking a break from the '33 but it was time to get back on it. Pulled the rear end, cleaned it real good, pulled the axles and replaced the seals. Wire brushed the calipers and painted them. Hopefully get it back in tomorrow with the new Ridetech lower arms and BMR uppers. Added a Moser cover just because. Has 3:73 gears
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Got it back in... the Ridetech uppers and BMR swivel bushings and Ridetech lowers with double R joints, Waiting on the new drilled/slotted rotors then I can put the wheels and tires back on it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...acc5f53d_b.jpg20230611_183127 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ae367411_b.jpg20230611_183028 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...246f75c9_b.jpg20230611_182957 by F G, on Flickr
Looking at this closely, did you manage to offset the spacers front/rear of the LCA to make it more parallel to the car? That's what I did using Levy's LCA..
Attachment 185717
Mine are dead center, no offset. It looked pretty good but now i'll have to go look at it again and see if i'm missing something. Those inner nuts are actually spacers. I drilled the threads out and used them because they were the perfect width.Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
Cool, if you're ever interested in what Gordon Levy suggests (and makes sense to me), you can see how the offset spacers work in the first photo here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post478520
Pads and rotors arrived today so I buttoned up the rear, all that's left is the bleeding. And of course I just had to see how the new rims looked on there.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ef62026a_b.jpg20230615_181325 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7da47e69_b.jpg20230615_181304 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d0c84901_b.jpg20230615_181347 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...74a68f47_b.jpg20230615_191516 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cc93ea0d_b.jpg20230615_191523 by F G, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b81848f2_b.jpg20230615_191538 by F G, on Flickr
Nice wheels! The two most personal things in a build are #1-wheels, #2-paint. There are 1000s of wheel designs but paint is various shades of spectrum colors.
And I'll add, that some wheels that look good with some colors just don't look right with other colors. It can be maddening when you get to the point of wheels & colors. That was the hardest part of my build was figuring out what color to go with. Then on my 55 F100 Build I'm wrapping up now, I knew the color I wanted but finding the right wheels to go with it was the biggest struggle. UghQuote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
Jim