Shakey's Daytona Build

Great job Shakey. Big step.Two items: 1) I noticed how you routed your heater hoses in one of your pictures. I had mine the same way and could not get heat. The manual shows the heater hose that is coming from the top footbox connection should be attached to the heater valve outlet closest to the firewall. Once I changed mine I had heat. 2) I followed the manual as far as positioning my body but when it came time to mount the door hinges they would not swing fully and I had to reposition the body for clearance. I would suggest cutting your hinge openings and mocking up the hinges for clearance before securing the body down.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Namrups

Great job Shakey. Big step.Two items: 1) I noticed how you routed your heater hoses in one of your pictures. I had mine the same way and could not get heat. The manual shows the heater hose that is coming from the top footbox connection should be attached to the heater valve outlet closest to the firewall. Once I changed mine I had heat. 2) I followed the manual as far as positioning my body but when it came time to mount the door hinges they would not swing fully and I had to reposition the body for clearance. I would suggest cutting your hinge openings and mocking up the hinges for clearance before securing the body down.

---

Great observations! I have not run the heater yet. The vents and ducts still need to be plumbed. I will definitely keep this in mind and it will be the first thing I do if the heat isn't working. I already bolted the body on but there is still some adjustment in the rear brackets. If needed I suppose I can re-drill the screw holes near the doors. Thanks for the comments. I will do the doors next for sure before I get any further into the body work.

V/R

Shakey

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shakey

Great observations! I have not run the heater yet. The vents and ducts still need to be plumbed. I will definitely keep this in mind and it will be the first thing I do if the heat isn't working. I already bolted the body on but there is still some adjustment in the rear brackets. If needed I suppose I can re-drill the screw holes near the doors. Thanks for the comments. I will do the doors next for sure before I get any further into the body work.

V/R

Shakey

---

I had to move my body as far forward as I could get it.

I did as well and modified the hinges so that I could get the door to open more without hitting the body. Otherwise it is a real bear to get out.

Good to read this info regarding where to mount the body. I am 6’ 5” so I need all the room I can get! Thanks guys!

Posted a video walking around and discussing the build a bit on youtube. Close to getting the car registered. Just waiting on the Washington State Patrol for a VIN inspection now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNF-gFY2lQA



Shakey

I just dropped the car off at the dyno/tuner in my area. Plan is to get them to do a base tune on the Termintor X and if they think the engine is healthy enough and has enough break-in miles on it, they will put it on the dyno. First time the car had been in anothers hands. I imagine it's similar to what the feeling of dropping your first born off at college is like.

I did get the car registered and it's now street legal in WA state. Standby for another thread on that specifically. Lots of waiting and bureaucracy.

Odometer is at 260mi. So far everything is great and hopefully once tuner is done with the EFI and alignment it will be ready for the spring/summer driving season.

V/r

Shakey

Great news! Enjoy the summer driving your dream. I look for reasons to take the car out. Hmmmm I need a loaf of bread... Wheres my coupe keys!!!;)

Just viewed your first start and go kart videos, awesome and congrats on the achievements!
My coupe arrives in August, can't wait to get started. I love the bronze wheels, doing something similar on mine, just a different wheel pattern.

Hey Alan, sounds like a fun build. I basically went for the Forgestar wheels because I could get the offset right and not run wheel spacers. More custom wheels are out there but are much more expensive. My wife is from Prescott Valley AZ. If we are gonna be in that area I'm might shoot you a PM and we can compare notes.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shakey

Hey Alan, sounds like a fun build. I basically went for the Forgestar wheels because I could get the offset right and not run wheel spacers. More custom wheels are out there but are much more expensive. My wife is from Prescott Valley AZ. If we are gonna be in that area I'm might shoot you a PM and we can compare notes.

---

If you don't mind, please share your exact offsets or backspacing on your wheels. You indicate that your wheels are just about ideal as they don't require spacers. It would help greatly when I go to order in July as maybe I can get APEX to match your backspacing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shakey

Greetings all,
Forgestar F14 Golden Bronze Front: 18x10 +12mm offset, Rear: 19x12 -25mm offset(Thanks Logan!)
Tires Nitto INVO Front: 275/40R18 Rear: 325/30R19
-Shakey

---

So you are showing a -25mm offset at the rear, is that correct?
I am looking at the Apex ARC-8 wheels and all of their offset options are positive. I can select 19x11 +11mm at the front and 19x12 +25mm at the rear. Just checking in advance. Given the set are $2500 wheels, I am going to get one of the fitment tools to check the offsets needed. That or I can the 18 inch wheels from my Mustang restomod and add spacers as needed.

Alan,

Yes, its a -25mm offset in the rear. That is why the Forgestar wheels were so appealing was because they can do this uncommon offset at a reasonable price. Also, check that they offer the ARC-8 with a 5X114.3 bolt pattern. Didn't see that option on their website.

Here are the exact specs from my order sheet with Get Your Wheels.

Wheels:

Front: FORGESTAR F14 SDC 18X10 Backspace: +12 Bolt pattern: 5X114.3
Rear: FORGESTAR F14 UDC 19X12 Backspace: -25 Bolt pattern: 5X114.3
Finish: GLOSS BRUSHED ANTIQUE BRONZE

Tires: Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3
Front: 275/40 R18
Rear: 325/30 R19

V/R

Shakey

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shakey

Alan,

Yes, its a -25mm offset in the rear. That is why the Forgestar wheels were so appealing was because they can do this uncommon offset at a reasonable price. Also, check that they offer the ARC-8 with a 5X114.3 bolt pattern. Didn't see that option on their website.

Here are the exact specs from my order sheet with Get Your Wheels.

Wheels:

Front: FORGESTAR F14 SDC 18X10 Backspace: +12 Bolt pattern: 5X114.3
Rear: FORGESTAR F14 UDC 19X12 Backspace: -25 Bolt pattern: 5X114.3
Finish: GLOSS BRUSHED ANTIQUE BRONZE

Tires: Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3
Front: 275/40 R18
Rear: 325/30 R19

V/R

Shakey

---

Had not seen the standard 5x4.5 inch Mustang bolt pattern being shown in mm, took me a minute to think about it and do the conversion to inches.
I was looking for a set of wheels for my Saturn Sky Redline from Forgeline, expensive stuff. Since I am just looking to fix it up and flip it, way too much money to spend on it. Now for the Coupe, that is another matter.

Here are the specs for the 18 inch Halibrand wheels that Factory Five sells.
Front Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18″x 9″
Rear Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18″x 11″
Front Wheel Backspace: 6.00″ (24mm Offset)
Rear Wheel Backspace: 6.46″ (12mm Offset)

Wheel Lug Pattern: Ford style 5 lug x 4.5″ bolt circle

So with this as a baseline as the FFR wheels are said to work on the coupe, I have made a quick table in Excel.

Source Front Width Offset Rear Width Offset
FFR 18x9 +24mm 18x11 +12mm
Shakey 18x10 +12mm 19x12 -25mm
AC 19x11 0mm 19x12 0mm


The offset at the front for all three configurations make sense as for each 1 inch of wheel width the offset is changed by 1/2 inch. So why did you push your rear wheel face out another inch? Just curious and trying to put a reason behind the number the rear wheel offset numbers.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shakey

Thanks for the posts and feedback!


Edwardb,

I have been trying to jump around in the manual as much as I can. Your build thread really has helped to look at to see what items you can get taken care of and when so that you don't back your self into a corner. I have been working on things like the trunk box and all the aluminimum fitting. I posted some pics below of the charcoal canister and brake reservoir routing. Probably going to start the dash and electrical next.

As far as the engine goes, I placed and order with Ford Strokers in Feb of 2022 and I knew it would be a long wait time. That was why I ordered the motor six months prior to my kit arriving. I got an update from Nicole and she said they are still hurting from the Dart production backup so I probably won't have my engine completed until March. Probably worth mentioning that Nicole and Woody have been awesome to work with. It can't be easy to deal with a bunch of eager customers waiting a year plus for a motor. Their customer service is top notch.

When I do get my motor, I am probably going to have to rearrange the shop and remove the radiator(thanks for the heads up) like you mentioned to get the motor in from the front. I would very cautiously make an attempt from the side but we will see how stable everything looks when the install day arrives.

Rian_Colorado,

Yeah having a supporting wife and some friends nearby was a huge help getting the kit delivered. Stewart was also really accommidating dealing with me being out of town.


Scott,


Thanks, Looks like I'm on the same timeline as you just a month behind. I got an e-mail from FFR saying a 12lb box will be delivered this weekend so hopefully that's the front spindles.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1674669474

This is a good shot of the fuel filter/regulator combo that I got from Breeze. The install was really easy with the single SS/teflon fuel line running up to the engine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1674669474

This is the charcoal canister I made from PVC and fish tank charcoal bags. I put it on the left side because the Breeze install instructions for the big vent kit recommended it. Makes sense to me, if you are turning hard to the left, fuel is going to have to fight the Gs to flow out of the vent tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1674669474

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1674669474

I used a plastic cable glad to insulate the brake reservoir hoses as they pass through the foot box. I ordered a set of various sizes from amazon to use for electrical routing but this one fit the hole that was already drilled perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1674669474

I swapped the front and rear master cyliders for the 5/8in size that Rsnake reccomended on his youtube channel. I used the 3/4 that came with the kit for the hydraulic clutch I am planning.

V/r

Shakey

---

I thought the front and MC were 3/4 and the rear was 5/8? What is the up side to all of them being 5/8?

Your fuel vent canister will be in the way of the splash panel installation.

Hi Shakey,

Congratulations on all your progress. I haven't been on here for a while because of moving house and other things that have gotten in the way. I'm now looking at getting my engine in soon and started to look at what is involved in plumbing the radiator and condenser. I see some of your photos show some of the plumbing but was wondering, if you get a chance, could you post some more pictures?

Thanks

John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Alan_C

Here are the specs for the 18 inch Halibrand wheels that Factory Five sells.
Front Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18″x 9″
Rear Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18″x 11″
Front Wheel Backspace: 6.00″ (24mm Offset)
Rear Wheel Backspace: 6.46″ (12mm Offset)

Wheel Lug Pattern: Ford style 5 lug x 4.5″ bolt circle

So with this as a baseline as the FFR wheels are said to work on the coupe, I have made a quick table in Excel.

Source Front Width Offset Rear Width Offset
FFR 18x9 +24mm 18x11 +12mm
Shakey 18x10 +12mm 19x12 -25mm
AC 19x11 0mm 19x12 0mm


The offset at the front for all three configurations make sense as for each 1 inch of wheel width the offset is changed by 1/2 inch. So why did you push your rear wheel face out another inch? Just curious and trying to put a reason behind the number the rear wheel offset numbers.

---

Hey Alan,

Sorry I have been away for a bit. I been out driving the car instead of working on it which has been nice.

For my wheel offsets, I did a bunch of calculations like you did and also looked at the wheel and tire repository. In the end, I basically copied what Snowman did on this post of his. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post448741

Also, in the FFR wheels you mentioned, most people run 1 inch wheel spacers with them. I didn't wanna run wheel spacers so I found a wheel that would be 19in in diameter, 12in wide and allow for basically a 5in backspace(-25mm offset.) I have about 500mi on the car and before my alignment the were rubbing on the inside of the wheel well. Now with the alignment they don't rub anymore from what I can tell. If I did any offset closer to 0, I feel like they would rub constantly.

Here are some pic of the wheels with the alignment done and no spacers. Set at 4in ride height in all 4 corners. And a Pic from top down showing how far the wheel sticks out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1717034165

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1717034165

Nelsond003,

What is the up side to all of them being 5/8?

Scientifically, I'm not 100% sure. I put a lot of trust in Rsnake's youtube channel and just followed his lead. We are running the exact brakes so I though it would apply to me and he switched from 3/4 to 5/8 on both. According to google, a smaller diameter master cylinder moves less volume of fluid but generates more force. I think this gives you more pedal travel and feel as well as less effort to push it. According to an Rsnake video, the brakes we have with a 3/4 MC are like a rock and go from nothing to a lot of braking with very little pedal travel.

HTH,

Shakey

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shakey

Nelsond003,

What is the up side to all of them being 5/8?

Scientifically, I'm not 100% sure. I put a lot of trust in Rsnake's youtube channel and just followed his lead. We are running the exact brakes so I though it would apply to me and he switched from 3/4 to 5/8 on both. According to google, a smaller diameter master cylinder moves less volume of fluid but generates more force. I think this gives you more pedal travel and feel as well as less effort to push it. According to an Rsnake video, the brakes we have with a 3/4 MC are like a rock and go from nothing to a lot of braking with very little pedal travel.

HTH,

Shakey

---

I followed his lead too and just bought the 5/8" MC's straight away. So I guess I'll never know if it was really necessary, but it's easy now just starting my build.

BTW, what color are you thinking for your car? Love the bronze wheels. But now you have to match them to your paint!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jgray

Hi Shakey,

Congratulations on all your progress. I haven't been on here for a while because of moving house and other things that have gotten in the way. I'm now looking at getting my engine in soon and started to look at what is involved in plumbing the radiator and condenser. I see some of your photos show some of the plumbing but was wondering, if you get a chance, could you post some more pictures?

Thanks

John

---

More coolant hose/AC hose routing pictures.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1717094704

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1717094704

Pic from underneath showing the clamp holding the hose as it goes under the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1717094704

Rad and AC hoses going down to the radiator

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1717094950

Lower rad hose coming for the rad. You can see the coupling from the flexible hose to the metal rad hose.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1717094704

Connection to lower water pump inlet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1717094950

Overview of hoses.

v/r

Shakey

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimStone

I followed his lead too and just bought the 5/8" MC's straight away. So I guess I'll never know if it was really necessary, but it's easy now just starting my build.

BTW, what color are you thinking for your car? Love the bronze wheels. But now you have to match them to your paint!

---

Right now, pretty sure I am gonna paint it similar to the 1966 Lemans winner GT40. Black with silver stripes. Maybe some meatballs and other accents. Similar to this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1717129163

V/r

Shakey

Hey Shakey, Back in post number 80 you mentioned that you would share more info on mounting the hood. The reason I’m asking is because I am installing my radiator and condenser and seeing that the hood hinge will hit the aluminum panels and the lower condenser hose connector. I’m wondering if I should position the radiator more upright to increase the clearance? Even if I do that the passenger side hinge still touches the connector. I see in Paul’s build he notes this issue and I saw Thomas on the Oak Hollow YouTube channel had to cut the hinge. I would rather not cut it because it seems like there will be a lot of stress on the hinges. So any wisdom and experience you can share would be gratefully appreciated!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shakey

Right now, pretty sure I am gonna paint it similar to the 1966 Lemans winner GT40. Black with silver stripes. Maybe some meatballs and other accents.

---

I think that would look great! Lots of blue and red Coupes so I think a black one is a nice visual change.
I'm still looking at silver for mine so if I ever get mine done we'll need to have a photo shoot together!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jgray

Hey Shakey, Back in post number 80 you mentioned that you would share more info on mounting the hood. The reason I’m asking is because I am installing my radiator and condenser and seeing that the hood hinge will hit the aluminum panels and the lower condenser hose connector. I’m wondering if I should position the radiator more upright to increase the clearance? Even if I do that the passenger side hinge still touches the connector. I see in Paul’s build he notes this issue and I saw Thomas on the Oak Hollow YouTube channel had to cut the hinge. I would rather not cut it because it seems like there will be a lot of stress on the hinges. So any wisdom and experience you can share would be gratefully appreciated!

---

The actual body will have to be cut no matter what. Even with the condenser all the way to the top of the radiator. Your hood hinge clearance will only be dictated by how far you personally want the hood to open. For me I find the hood opening to be sufficient without cutting the hinge. There’s little to actually work on the more forward you go in the bay. Best advice is to mount everything, open, then trim as needed.

I appreciate the input. I had not thought about the fact that there isn't much at the front of the engine bay. I will do as you suggest, mount everything and trim as needed. One less thing to worry about for now!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jgray

I appreciate the input. I had not thought about the fact that there isn't much at the front of the engine bay. I will do as you suggest, mount everything and trim as needed. One less thing to worry about for now!

---

Yep! That’s the way.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by q4stix

I think that would look great! Lots of blue and red Coupes so I think a black one is a nice visual change.
I'm still looking at silver for mine so if I ever get mine done we'll need to have a photo shoot together!

---

Attachment 201967

Here’s a nice black one! ;)

I posted in a separate thread my experience registering the car. If you wanna know about registering your car in Washington State you can check it out here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...shington-State

V/R

Shakey

Wow! A long time since my last post. I spent most of last summer driving the car around and working on random projects. I have done a couple oil changes. Also, I changed the rear diff fluid and trans fluid at the 2000mile mark. Probably overkill but I figured since everything was brand new, I might as well get any small metal pieces from break in out of there. The car has been great to drive an very reliable. The A/C is charged and that was a huge help in making the car more of a driver. I attended 2 "Official" car shows with the car last year and multiple Friday afternoon car meetups at the local burger joint. I'll highlight below some of the smaller projects I got done on the car over the fall and winter. Right now the car is up on jacks and back in the building phase. I didn't like how some of the behind the dash wiring was done initially. Not enough access to fuse/rely panels and no room for the AC/heater ducting. So, the plan now is to fix that stuff and finally get the dash covered with material, probably black vinyl. After that, the car will be driving again for a while. Still need to get the engine professionally tuned and the car painted. That stuff costs money and the budget is tight right now so it could be a while.

I have been looking into trying to race my car in the SOVREN Historic Big Bore group and researching what it would take to make the car legal. I know Type 65 Coupe Rs have raced in that class in the past but my car not being the R model I am looking at what needs to be done to the cage to make it legal. The standard coupe already has a 6 point cage in it so the only glaring thing I have seen is that needs to be added is door bars. I would like to get that stuff taken care of before paint as well. If anyone out there knows about Vintage Competition roll cage rules and/or SOVREN tech compliance I would be interested in any helpful guidance you would have.

I got the submarine belts installed and the rest of the cockpit insulation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1741376396

I fabricated a radiator/condenser guard that bolts to the outside of the front frame. I had to remove a bit more of the lower hood so that the hood still opens fully but that wasn't too bad. It was welded together with angle iron and metal mesh from home depot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1741376268

Here is the front tow hook solution I came up with. It is removable. I went on send cut send and had them cut me some of their basic patterns to make the eye of the hook. Then did some welding with angle iron. You can see where it attaches to the upper frame and slides through the radiator opening without touching. Feels pretty sturdy.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1741376268

Close up of the front tow hook attachement.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1741376268

I also made a rear tow hook from what I got from send cut send. It bolts to the rear spoiler mount with an intermediate plate. It is also removable but will likely just keep it in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1741376268

Close up of the rear tow hook attachement.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1741376268


I finally made a locking cover for my drop trunk box. Its just some second skin insulation sandwiched between two aluminum pieces I had as scrap. I used a piano hinge from McMaster Carr and went on amazon to find a locking boat cabinet door latch (Perko 0931DP1BLK Flush-Mount Locking Latch, black). It uses the existing frame that is in the drop trunk area to latch to.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1741376396

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1741376396


V/R

Shakey

Shakey, go here and submit the CRF form to the SOVREN competition chair, contact emails and numbers are on that page. Jeff Kerney and John Rankin are very helpful. https://www.motorsportreg.com/events...-sovren-603170

I finally took the time to finish upholstering the dash and getting all the gauges and A/C ducts connected. The carpet is now the only thing that is needed to fully finish the interior. I’m going to wait for the carpet until after paint. I’m planning to remove the body for paint, and I think the carpet would get messed up during that process.

I will say that upholstery is not my favorite task but, I think it came out OK for a DIYer doing it for the first time. While the dash was out, I made some major changes to the wiring behind the dash. Basically, I consolidated everything to allow more room for the A/C ducts. I had originally built a mounting plate for my fuse block, relay block and DGD but found that it just took up too much room. I removed this plate and mounted everything directly to the transmission cover panel that’s behind the dash and moved them as close to the firewall as possible. I also decided to split the dash for easier access to everything that is back there. Remove four bolts and the top of the dash comes off so I can access everything electrical on the car.

I also added an oil pressure waring light. I am running a 20psi pressure switch which I thought was good. At warm idle, my oil pressure usually holds at about 25psi.

When I ordered my DGD a couple years ago, I ordered it with a white light start button. They accidentally sent me a blue one instead which I have been using for about 2000 miles. While I was there, I switched out the start buttons and I think the white looks a lot cleaner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1742572282

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1742572282

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1742572282

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1742572282



V/R

Shakey

Hey Shakey,
How much air cleaner / hood clearance do you have using that Super Victor intake?

Thanks

Interior looks great!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 8secDuster

Hey Shakey,
How much air cleaner / hood clearance do you have using that Super Victor intake?

Thanks

---

Hey Mike,

Just posted about this over on this thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-a-Gen-3-coupe

Long story short, with 1in drop engine mounts I can fit a 3 in air cleaner on a 1in drop base.

Hope this helps,

V/r

Shakey

Looking good Shakey!!

Ahh... ok. So they are a Solid Mount?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 8secDuster

Ahh... ok. So they are a Solid Mount?

---

Yeah, that's correct. I got mine from Levy racing. A little increase in vibration but not too terrible. I wish I had gone with the Aviad oil pan with these mounts. At 6.5 in deep it would have tucked nicely into the frame.

V/r

Shakey