North Florida 289 Build, #10306

Attachment 169549Attachment 169550Attachment 169551
Soooooo, I was working on installing the Russ Thompson turn signal hardware and opening up the steering shaft hole in the dash. After doing so, I realized that the FIA 289 dash won't work as it is cut from FFR. When centered on the pre-cut hole, the larger steering shaft hole makes the dash sit too high on the DS, such that the tach and left-most gauge won't fit under the hoop. The turn signal/high beam indicators are now sitting in the hoop. Also, the bezels for the gauges and the RT mod interfere, so I can't open up the hole any more in the vertical. The speedo fit was marginal with the hoop already, so I can't move that side up. At least part of this is on me, for sure, as I didn't imagine things would be this far out of whack. :(
I can see where things need to move, so I'll be calling FFR for a blank dash here shortly. Yeehaw.

While I wait for brakes, other POL items, and the new blank dash, I did install the side panels for the trunk aluminum. Next week, I'll mount the modified tank vent charcoal filter and then move on to the trunk floor with the Breeze cubby and Russ Thompson drop trunk. I also must replace the front hubs as they're leaking (my fault). On a positive note, my side pipes showed up Wednesday.

FFR doesn't sell cats for the 289 any longer. I assume if I buy some hi-flow cats, a competent muffler shop/weld shop can modify the current j-pipes or are there other options?

I swear I saw a post a few years ago where someone got long tube headers with cats integrated from Mike Forte.

Regarding the J pipes, shouldn't be too hard as that's all the once offered Factory five cats were (cat welded into a J pipe). If you go that route, you may want to wait until you have the body on so you perhaps the exhaust shop could adjust the J pipe angle on the passenger side as it will probably be a bit off.

For reference, here's one of my cats (ordered from Factory five in 2014, then coated).

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...886DJP6-X2.jpg

Would it work if you did not use the collar?

Been in Texas working the past week and making some $$ for parts. I hope to get back to the build this week. In my efforts to increase my knowledge of the 289 Roadster build, I may have discovered and/or proven I’m an idiot. More to follow.

Okay. I’m not a total idiot, just a partial one. The dash still sits too high and I will need to build my own with the blank dash I received.

I did get some work done on the trunk section and have the RT drop trunk installed.
Attachment 171183

And in even better news, my Wilwood brakes arrived yesterday. :)
Attachment 171184

Brakes on. Will hopefully fill and bleed the systems and get the emergency brake installed this coming week.
Attachment 171411Attachment 171412Attachment 171413Attachment 171414

Looks like a lot of quality work going on with great parts. Enjoy!

Slow going with a lot of babysitting grandkids and work. I did get the Breeze cubby metal work done and got my wheels and other parts back from powder coating. I put the wheels on the car to see what they look like and to save storage space. I’m pretty happy with how it all turned out. For the record, the spinners will remain unpainted.
Attachment 172691Attachment 172692Attachment 172693

I’ll order my tires here shortly. I’m going with the Falken Azenis RT615K+ as they look like they’re a good compromise for local driving conditions and what I want to do with the car.

Got the brakes bled using the old fashioned method with Mrs. Chainsaw assisting on the pedal.

Got the elephant ears done with the fan blower installed and the 3” duct fitted and temp installed.
Attachment 172865Attachment 172866

Cut the 1-3/4” hole for the RT turn signal mod and got the dash where I wanted it.
Attachment 172867

I also temporarily installed one spinner just to see what it looked like. I’m happy with it.
Attachment 172868

I’m going to cut the holes for the gauges today and start working on the dash.

Need to get some pics up, but making slow progress. Dash and under dash filler panel drilled and fitted. DS foot box drilled and fitted. Awaiting vinyl from FFR, so I blew that off and ordered a roll from Amazon so I can skin the dash and move on with gauge/switch install. Mike D says they'll get my carpet done on the next cutting, so I hope to have that soon.

Ordered more stuff from Breeze and cobraheat. My budget is so busted and beyond fixing. I'm glad the wife doesn't really ask anymore and that I still have side hustle $$ coming in so I don't have to dip into the retirement savings for this project. It's still cheaper to do things right or the way I want them done than doing things multiple times. (That only happens when I screw up which is too frequent.)

BPE stuff probably won't be here until November at the earliest. I need the extra time to get ready for that delivery since I've been working a fair amount and then there's this TS/Hurricane Ian rolling up the coast now. I hope you guys in SW and central Florida are coming out okay.

Dash work
Attachment 173199Attachment 173200
DS footbox
Attachment 173201

Boring stuff, I know, but I think I’ve finally completed the emergency brake linkage. It seems to work, but I need to change out the rod end. The one I could find locally at Ace has a 5/16” ball with is really too big for the assembly. I have ordered a 1/4” rod end with an oversized 5/16-24 threaded section which will work on both ends of the linkage. I didn’t want to do this mod, but the cables were just too long to make the standard FFR hardware work with the modification to run them over the 4” tube.
Attachment 173327Attachment 173326Attachment 173325

Small progress, but I put the car on the ground. The seats are just sitting in the cockpit as it seems to be the best place to store them.

Attachment 173337

Now I have a chassis dolly if anyone needs one in North FL or South GA.

Hello Neighbor,
Im only about an hour south of you. Hows the build going?. Early on I decided on Power steering power brakes and hydralic clucth early on. . I am gettin no yuonger and made my decsions based on what I saw and expeienced in the build school.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mcwho

Hello Neighbor,
Im only about an hour south of you. Hows the build going?. Early on I decided on Power steering power brakes and hydralic clucth early on. . I am gettin no yuonger and made my decsions based on what I saw and expeienced in the build school.

---

It’s coming along pretty well. Just in a slow period right now while we’re babysitting some of the grandkids this week and we have trip next week. When we get back, I’ll get the dash skinned, gauges installed/wired/tested and start on the non-standard electrical wiring after that. I’ve got the PS and hydraulic clutch stuff ready to go for the engine/transmission installation when they arrive. I haven’t decided if I’m going to get the Heidt proportioning valve for the PS system, but I’m leaning that way.
Just eating the elephant one bite at a time.

Due to work and family, it’s been a while since I was able to work much on the car. I did get the radiator mounted today.
Attachment 174429Attachment 174430Attachment 174431

Still working on the dash wiring. I did get word the engine/transmission are complete at BPE. I asked them to delay shipment a week as I’ll be out of town next week. I should have it here by Thanksgiving.

Is that the Breeze radiator mount? I had clearance issues withe the body and had to mount it at a shallower angle than the suggested MKIV radiator angle. I talked it over with Mark at a show a couple years ago.

It is the Breeze mount. What angle did you wind up with?

Hey Jack,

You might want to check the Breeze Cubby wall height. I had to cut mine down almost an inch as it was riding very high and lifted the rear of the body way too much. From your picture, it looks about an inch high. Not sure why, but I know this has been an issue with others too.

Ted

I'll grab a photo tomorrow for you. Basically mounted the hinge to the top of the 3/4" tube.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ted G

Hey Jack,

You might want to check the Breeze Cubby wall height. I had to cut mine down almost an inch as it was riding very high and lifted the rear of the body way too much. From your picture, it looks about an inch high. Not sure why, but I know this has been an issue with others too.

Ted

---

Thanks for that. I had seen that on Dan’s YouTube build videos, too. I just gave that area a look and you’re correct. I’ll have to cut it down some.

While getting my head right concerning with the harness wiring, I decided to work on the NRG/Russ Thompson turn signal mod. Things appear to come out pretty well, but not as pretty as most.

Attachment 174703Attachment 174704Attachment 174705

I have found a problem. The NRG mechanism has always been difficult even when not installed. However, now that I’ve installed everything I can’t get the tabs to fulyl engage to lock the mechanism. The tabs start to engage, but I can only turn the collar about 1/4 of the way to full lock. Has anyone else experienced this?

I don’t see any interferences and with the hub or wheel interfaces and all of the screw heads are countersunk with no interferences. I’m assuming the tabs are just a bit too thick. I’d prefer not to remove any tab material, but that’s my only path forward at this point. Any ideas?

I lightly filed the tab material and added a thin layer of grease a little at a time until I got mine to engage. Go lightly as it doesn't take much.

I think I have the NRG mod working now. Took more filing that I thought, but I just did a little at a time and eventually got full engagement. I also built up my hood hinges (not installed yet) and added a bunch of electrical spade connectors to the dash wiring to make the power and instrumentation connections.

Based upon my electrical adds, I decided to put in positive & ground bus bars. I’m waiting on those arriving, but I went fishing for the battery feed cable in the harness to see how accessible it was. Before I cut into that, is that the right cable to go after for an always-hot power input to the positive bus bar? Seems like a dumb question, but too important to get wrong.

BPE delivery today. Everything seems to be in good order.
Attachment 175321

Dyno run info. 372 hp/365 lb-ft. It’ll definitely work for what I want out of this machine.
Attachment 175322

Silver Sport mid-shift kit on order. Should be a real treat installing that set up, but I’m looking forward to it.

I’m still arguing with myself on the need to go ahead and install an adjustable fuel pressure reg or just use the Sniper’s reg.

Looking good!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chainsaw

Thanks for that. I had seen that on Dan’s YouTube build videos, too. I just gave that area a look and you’re correct. I’ll have to cut it down some.

---

I pulled the bulb seal off and put a level on the 2 bulkheads. The Breeze bulkhead is just a smidge higher than the cockpit bulkhead assuming total leveling which I probably shouldn’t. However, eyeballing the 2 bulkheads they are very close to even. Should the cubby bulkhead be lower?
Attachment 175811

So, I still haven’t decided on which fuel pressure regulator to use. Has anyone had any bad luck with the Holley Sniper regulator that’s already part of the system?
I plan to dump the Sniper system sometime in the not-too-distant future for the Edelbrock ProFlow 4 or, if I hit the lottery, the Inglese 8-stack system. This makes me think I should go ahead and install the adjustable regulator from Mike Forte.
Decisions, decisions.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chainsaw

I pulled the bulb seal off and put a level on the 2 bulkheads. The Breeze bulkhead is just a smidge higher than the cockpit bulkhead assuming total leveling which I probably shouldn’t. However, eyeballing the 2 bulkheads they are very close to even. Should the cubby bulkhead be lower?
Attachment 175811

---

I'd love to see if someone has a photo of what the level should actually be.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chainsaw

I pulled the bulb seal off and put a level on the 2 bulkheads. The Breeze bulkhead is just a smidge higher than the cockpit bulkhead assuming total leveling which I probably shouldn’t. However, eyeballing the 2 bulkheads they are very close to even. Should the cubby bulkhead be lower?
Attachment 175811

---

My 289 kit was delivered a couple weeks ago. I haven't removed my body from the chassis yet and have a Breeze bulkhead that I ordered. I tried a test fit and it will definitely need to be cut down. My plan was to measure the clearance and cut it now to make sure it fits so I don't have a problem when I put the body back on later. I'm guessing it will need to be cut down .5-.75" to have clearance for the bulb seal. It looks pretty uniform across the span but will confirm dimensions tonight.

I made mine removable. Makes things easier to reach in the long run. You can trim it to fit after the body is on. Comes out easily to mount and adjust the seat belts.Attachment 176101

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lasse2

My 289 kit was delivered a couple weeks ago. I haven't removed my body from the chassis yet and have a Breeze bulkhead that I ordered. I tried a test fit and it will definitely need to be cut down. My plan was to measure the clearance and cut it now to make sure it fits so I don't have a problem when I put the body back on later. I'm guessing it will need to be cut down .5-.75" to have clearance for the bulb seal. It looks pretty uniform across the span but will confirm dimensions tonight.

---

For what it's worth, I was able to measure the clearance for a bulkhead on my 289 kit. I used a point 11" back from the rear of the cockpit as noted in the Breeze instructions. On each side, from top of trunk aluminum to the underside of the fiberglass I have 7 1/2". In the center I have 9 15/16". This would require that approximately 1/4" be trimmed from the top arc of the bulkhead just to stand vertically. Additional clearance will be needed for the bulb seal.

Slow going lately with the holidays, grand kid invasions, and colds, but making some progress with a lot of grunt work. Got the wiper motor, Hyperspark CD box, and fuel pressure regulator mounted, added insulation to the back of the firewall, and been sealing up some of the panel gaps in preparation for adding cockpit insulation. I’ve also been working some wiring stuff and got my TKX front shift mod done. I need to test out the electrical system, gauges, etc., this week and then I hope to install the engine/transmission.
Attachment 177797Attachment 177798

Got the new stick hardware in from Silver Sport. The TKX still appears to shift with the mod (good news). I think it will look good, too. Ready to get the dash connected up so I can get the final length wires done, add 2 more connectors and then test what I can.
Attachment 177914Attachment 177915

Still grindin’. Made 2 fuel hoses and attached fittings to test fit to the fuel reg. I still need to pressure test these 2 hoses. Worked on and installed the firewall extension.
Attachment 177993Attachment 177994Attachment 177995

My goal is to install the engine/transmission next week and sort out the location to install the Hyperspark coil. I may wind up installing it on the DS foot box or way over to the driver’s side of the firewall. Need to avoid the mech throttle linkage in either case.

Big day today. Got the engine/transmission dropped in and bolted up. No too bad for 3 guys that had not done this before. I got the transmission a-frame installed, too. Had to cut the tunnel crossmember to get the shifter in place. Need to fill the transmission with fluid.
Attachment 178238Attachment 178239

On to hooking all of the engine stuff up, fitting the mechanical throttle linkage, and finishing the dash wiring and testing it. Break-in oil on the way. Headers on back-order, but ordered.

Driveshaft installed. Need to set the pinion angle next.
Attachment 178473

Working on a removable headrest for the Kirkey vintage racing seats.
Attachment 179005Attachment 179006Attachment 179007