Eaton's Mk4 #9130 Oregon Build- First Year of Street legal driving

So, I pulled the engine out (I taped up the intake and covered it with a blanket)


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1511230705

I am positive that I had the mounts on the correct sides. Here is how I had them...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1511230801

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1511230768

you can kind of see where they were notched by the DART block

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1511230871

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1511230842

It does look like I can pretty easily just grind out the area where the mount is "notched". I found a mustang forum with a big discussion on this, ie putting DART blocks in mustangs. Most of the builders were grinding the mounts and not the block. Some of them were grinding the blocks. Someone brought up a website Maximum Motorsports which sells a solid mount that fits perfectly without problem. I am concerned that with a solid motor mount I will have more vibration. Don't like that idea. I sent a email to Forte, surely he has a good resolution answer...

Here are photos of the DART SHP block with the mounts removed. You can see the "webs" around the engine mount bolts sites which are causing all the trouble.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1511230943

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1511230909

I put my DART SHP 347 Stroker back on my steel cradle which took way too long to make :cool:
And, yes, it does list to Starboard. Hey , anybody can make a symmetric engine stand.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...0&d=1511231064

I hope that any new builders whom are planning a DART SHP engine see this thread... Like I sad before, when we initially installed the engine mounts they didn't bolt down flush. We figured it would be ok. I am so thankful to the forum members who noticed and stopped my erroneus progression.

I'm a little confused by your pictures. I see the notches carved into the frame mounts. Really hoping that's not related to this issue. Those notches shouldn't be required. At least not for the DART SHP block or the Energy Suspension motor mounts. My response to you previously was based on actual experience with my #7750 Mk4 Roadster build. I also had a DART SHP stroked to 347 and ran into the interference with the Energy Suspension motor mounts and the added webs on the DART SHP block. I contacted my engine builder (Fordstrokers in the Chicago area, very well known and respected) suggesting I trim the DART SHP block. He said "no way" and to put notches in the Energy Suspension mounts to clear. Said it was an easy fix. It's a small notch and in no way compromises the strength of the mount. That's what I did and the build was completed. Just finished it's third driving season, now with a different owner. All good. Great running engine BTW. I looked through my build pictures hoping to show how I notched the mounts, but couldn't find any.

As you found with your research, this is a common problem. Also as you found, not everyone fixes it the same way. Cut an $1800 block or $100 motor mounts. Easy choice IMO, especially since it's an effective fix. Lots of guys use solid mounts, but that's a whole other discussion. I certainly wouldn't for this reason alone. Just not necessary.

This problem is like a two edged sword. You can take some strength out of a big part or some out of a small part but either way there are some consequences. I would try to slot the holes in the mount so neither part gets a spanking. It will change the center distance between the mounts slightly but not reduce the strength. Some small pattern washers or a beveled edge on standard ones may be required to fit under the heads of the bolts because the slot will move the heads closer to the bend radius in the mounts.

I'm with Paul---don't cheese up the block. Yes, the mounts are shown on the proper sides.

Jeff

Thanks for the input guys. I'm not planning on and haven't altered the block at all. I'm in contact with Forte. I'll try to send photos which make it more obvious.

Exact issue when installing another forum member's DART block; notched the mounts and it went right in...

Chris

I notched the engine mounts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1511579507

Had to get a little aggessive with this one. Good thing its grade 8 steel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1511579507

Here are my newly mounted and custom fitted motor mounts!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1511578656

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...0&d=1511578522

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1511578793

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1511578770


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...2&d=1511578699

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1511578730

GD that set me back a few days!! If i see a newby like myself talking about using a DART SHP I am definitely going to give him the heads up on the engine mount issue.

And to address Edwardb's question about the frame mounts, I didn't not alter or notch them other than to just beat the hell out of them during my initial engine install. Looks like they are going to be ok.

Nicely done! Adapt & overcome...

I had a few hours to work on my trunk mod mock up today. I think I finally see how I'm going to complete this...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...0&d=1511674598

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1511674635

That's pretty slick. It never would have occurred to me to mount a battery on its side.
-Steve

Thanks Steve,

I copied it from 2bking's build. Of course, so far I have fallen short of the original but I think it'll work

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark Eaton

Thanks Steve,

I copied it from 2bking's build. Of course, so far I have fallen short of the original but I think it'll work

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That's cool, I did the FF Metal battery box mod - that looks easier...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark Eaton

Here are my newly mounted and custom fitted motor mounts!

...If i see a newby like myself talking about using a DART SHP I am definitely going to give him the heads up on the engine mount issue.

.

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Hi Mark,
I have the same DART block from Mike Forte. Was excited about your progress, not anymore after seeing the mounts issue LOL!
My engine is still sitting on shipping mounts, so I am not sure if I truly have this issue. Will keep you posted.

Thanks,
Martin

Martin,

Goodluck! I'll follow your thread. It will be interesting to see if you have the same problem.

Mark

Hi Mark,
You inspired me with your trunk mod. I was thinking about doing something with the trunk area. After seeing your pictures I figured I can do that as well.
I like the battery on its side as well.

One tiny problem was that I didn't have a welding machine. So I searched Amazon and bought one for $99 bucks! For this small project it is a perfect fit.
Last time I welded was back in the high school, but I am sure with some practice it will come back.

Thanks,
Martin

Mark,

I like your drop trunk modifications and might do the same. I don't have my tank on hand yet, but was wondering if you had looked ahead enough to make sure there would be no interference from the gas tank. I'm assuming not from what I've seen elsewhere but just wanted to check in in case you had looked into that. Great job and you are moving fast on the project!!!

Rob

Thanks Rob,

I don't think that there is going to be any interference with the trunk. I have installed the tank several times to check but I have't yet completely set up the tank. I'm currently painting the panels and will post of mock up with the fuel tank in place to illustrate. The access panel at the bottom of the drop part of the trunk is a little off and not exactly directly over the sending unit access port but I don't think it will be a problem.

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by broku518

Hi Mark,
You inspired me with your trunk mod. I was thinking about doing something with the trunk area. After seeing your pictures I figured I can do that as well.
I like the battery on its side as well.

One tiny problem was that I didn't have a welding machine. So I searched Amazon and bought one for $99 bucks! For this small project it is a perfect fit.
Last time I welded was back in the high school, but I am sure with some practice it will come back.

Thanks,
Martin

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That's great Martin. I'll look forward to watching your trunk mod.

Mark

Love Your Trunk Mods & Battery Location!

I painted the trunk panels with a spray on POR 15. Unfortunately, I ran out of paint and can only get it online. So, that will be on hold until january. I also made a battery box out of 1/8' aluminum. I still need to grind down the welds to make them look good but wanted to post the photos.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1512973427

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1512973467

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1512973523

I installed the Differential vent starting with hammering in the nipple with a dead blow hammer, the rubber mallet wouldn't do it. I was worried I would smash it but it went in ok.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1512974364

And here is the cheap looking plastic part that plugs into it. Thanks to Edwardb, Wareaglescott, and Jazzman, i didn't have to go see the geniuses at Ford to get it.

I ordered it online from tasca parts

http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/musta...part_name=vent.

--part numbers are FR3Z-4A058-A

& 2L1Z-4022-BA.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1512974055

Of course I cut it to fit better, I didn't want it sticking up around the wheel well.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1512974101

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1512974158

I must admit that I am puzzled why something that looks like it should be a closed system would need a vent. Also, I didn't use any sort of adhesive to secure the cheap plastic tube part to the metal nipple. Not sure what to put on there to keep it from popping off and opening my closed system (differential). I'll have to remember to crawl under the car every now and then and check on it.

I didn't use any sort of adhesive on the vent either. 3500 miles so far and no issues. (Of course now I will be checking it again today! haha)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark Eaton

I must admit that I am puzzled why something that looks like it should be a closed system would need a vent.

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Because as the fluid heats up it expands and the air in the housing must be allowed to exit freely (then return when it cools).

Jeff

Quote:

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I must admit that I am puzzled why something that looks like it should be a closed system would need a vent. Also, I didn't use any sort of adhesive to secure the cheap plastic tube part to the metal nipple. Not sure what to put on there to keep it from popping off and opening my closed system (differential). I'll have to remember to crawl under the car every now and then and check on it.

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I will add if you don't vent the case the air will expand as the gears warm up and will force oil out your seals. When it cools you then have a vacuum in the case again messing with your seals and possibly injesting water or dirt over time. It allows the case to regulate pressure as Jeff said already.

I envy the guys that can afford the full kit especially with the irs. I have to hunt things down and get creative with my budget.

Great work mark.

[QUOTE=Mark Eaton;302213]I took a couple days off and my brother came to town to help with the build. We assembled the engine,tranny, headers in prep for initial install. I went ahead and put on the PS cat and side pipes because I couldn't help myself. Here is my brother with the assembly thus far...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1511161151

Hi Mark.
Question about the tko600 and bellhousing join. I am prepping to do that soon. Someone suggested that I should dial indicate the bellhousing first. So I called M.Forte to check with him if this was done. He said no, but mentioned that quicktime bellhousing is very well made, thus isn't really needed.

So here I am, thinking what is the right thing to do. Check OR not. It also involved clutch removal. I have no idea how to do that. Plus, don't even have the tools.

Looking at your build, have you done this part?

Thanks,
Martin

Martin,

So I guess you have your answer from the other thread. I am ordering a dial indicator with magnetic base, clutch alignment tool and a crank turning nut from Summit. We have the same engine, therefore I think the Proform parts 67441 turning nut is what you need and the ACT Clutch Alignment Tools ATFC10. At least I think this is correct. I was ambivalent to remove the clutch but have decided to go ahead and remove it. I mean, what the hell...

I need to get the torque specifications from Forte. I'll let you know what they are when i get them.

I'll post photos for fun, of course!

Mark

Hi Mark,

I put the engine on the lift today and checked the mounts. Yep, same problem. Easy fix, just like yours.

Thanks,
Martin

[QUOTE=broku518;305289]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark Eaton

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1511161151

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Just FYI Mark. That exhaust pipe you have attached to the right side of the engine actually goes on the left side. The tab that points up currently should be on the bottom inside of the pipe facing the center of the car, and the flat opening surface of the end of the pipe should point pretty much straight sideways. I suspect you already knew this, but just in case. . .

Thanks Kevin,

Yeah, Kleiner already pointed that out to me. I had just hooked it up for fun. You know, I prefer to put everything together wrong the first time then redo it. I learn more that way...

And speaking of side pipes I was reading your thread about the side pipes. That sounded frustrating with the welder totally miscalculating his time. I'm thinking about buying some of those flow masters and welding them on myself. That way I can screw it up myself and not rely on the geniuses at the welding shop.

I will probably wait and see how loud they are for me, though. I am the only parent I know who has to turn down the rock music in the car because it is too loud for my teenager!

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark Eaton

Thanks Kevin,

Yeah, Kleiner already pointed that out to me. I had just hooked it up for fun. You know, I prefer to put everything together wrong the first time then redo it. I learn more that way...

And speaking of side pipes I was reading your thread about the side pipes. That sounded frustrating with the welder totally miscalculating his time. I'm thinking about buying some of those flow masters and welding them on myself. That way I can screw it up myself and not rely on the geniuses at the welding shop.

I will probably wait and see how loud they are for me, though. I am the only parent I know who has to turn down the rock music in the car because it is too loud for my teenager!

Mark

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I should have known that there was nothing I would notice that Kleiner wouldn't have already seen!! Glad he caught it. It's nice to know that you are following in the established tradition of "screw up once, do the same job twice". Don't feel like you are alone in that methodology!

I am really growing to like the Flowmasters sound, and the look is growing on me. The best part may be the significant temperature protection. With your kids around your car, that could be a real deciding factor. The temperature reduction is very significant over the stock FFR pipes. I wish I had thought to measure the working temperature of the FFR's before I had them chopped up. I don't know the exact difference, but I can touch the Flowmasters much longer than I ever could the FFR's. I don't TIG weld, so I couldn't do it myself. If you decide to do it yourself, talk to 2BKing. I had a very nice email from him after my original post about the frustrations of having them built. It is his opinion (and I think I concur) that while they dramatically underestimated their time, the work they did was solid and the time was not excessive for someone that had not done these pipes before. Apparently the angles of the welds are slightly different from right to left. 2BKing has made some sort of a jig to get these angles correct. The shop that did my pipes did not have that advantage.

I have to turn down the music too, but only because my bride tells me to. She says I am going deaf. When I can hear her, I tell her she is wrong! Rock on, Doc!

Rock On, Kevin!

When the time comes I will definitely PM 2BKing, that guy is a wealth of good information.

Hi Mark,
I am new to the Forum, but have been following the build threads should I find the amazing space you have to work with, and be blessed with the talent that many others have to make the parts fit and run.

I noticed from reading another thread that the top bolts on your outboard upper control arms were assembled with the bolt side down. Someone commented cleverly that if the nut comes loose, the bolt falls out. I am sure that you have caught that upon final torqueing of the bolts, but thought to mention it anyway. No disrespect intended, have enjoyed the build so far. Best of luck with the car.

Hey Mark,

I really think that shorty headers & cats up front will knock the noise down enough so that it won't be overbearingly loud.
Just my "Chevy Opinion" so good luck and be careful and keep an eye on your hands while working on your beast.

Steve

I have a secondary location in Medford and can help with any parts you might need . Would love to stop by and see the build

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GoDadGo

Hey Mark,

I really think that shorty headers & cats up front will knock the noise down enough so that it won't be overbearingly loud.
Just my "Chevy Opinion" so good luck and be careful and keep an eye on your hands while working on your beast.

Steve

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Thanks Steve,

I'm sure you are right, and don't worry I always wear gloves and protective eyewear. And no beer until the work is done;)

BTW, I was watching one of your Youtube vids, I really like that quick release steering wheel . What is the brand?

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jwd

I have a secondary location in Medford and can help with any parts you might need . Would love to stop by and see the build

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Definetely come by. I'll send you a PM

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SerpantFL

Hi Mark,
I am new to the Forum, but have been following the build threads should I find the amazing space you have to work with, and be blessed with the talent that many others have to make the parts fit and run.

I noticed from reading another thread that the top bolts on your outboard upper control arms were assembled with the bolt side down. Someone commented cleverly that if the nut comes loose, the bolt falls out. I am sure that you have caught that upon final torqueing of the bolts, but thought to mention it anyway. No disrespect intended, have enjoyed the build so far. Best of luck with the car.

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Thanks for the tip

Thanks for the pics and details on the engine mounts with the Dart block. I've got the same block, and I'm glad I saw your write-up.

Build looks great!