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I just finished putting my new kit on the dolly (I built per the dimensions here) and was wondering if anyone who is further ahead on their build is noticing any issues with the position of the front support blocks. They are directly under the floor panels rather than under a framing member. Does that become a problem after more weight is added? The floor panels don't look like they'd support much weight.
I ended up putting an additional board across the two supports that was wide enough to distribute the load to the frame members. In addition, if you will be putting your engine in using a standard wheeled hoist, measure the width of the legs of that hoist and install the rear wheels so as to be either inside or outside of that dimension. Had to put my frame up on stands to get the engine in.
When I mounted the rear tires one rubbed against the rear cross member of the dolly. I suggest you make the rear a couple of inches narrower. It will still be stable and the blocks on the rear are much narrower, so there's room for a narrower rear.
Yippee! My 818 is now a go-kart terrorizing the neighborhood!! The dolly worked well so now I'll make something else with the wood & wheels.
Pete
Congrats on reaching the go-cart stage!
Hey Tim,Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgyTim
I really like this dolly very surprised no one else seems to have mentioned it, I am a carpenter by trade but the steel version could be adapted so it could fit multiple projects in the future or sell it on for someone else to use, or make it so it folds flat, limited space in the garage so nice to see it tucked away against the wall, do you have any dimensions.
Cheers
Harry
Hi Harry
Thanks for the compliment. I'm away in Cambodia for another week, I can post some better pictures and some dimensions when I get back.
Cheers
Tim
Attachment 34461I made my mount pads adjustable so I can move them as needed. As the car gets heavier it also got a lot harder to move. I think the HF casters may not last the build.
Interesting most people seem to be using the extra wheel and I think the 8" wheel version or 400+lb load per wheel, thinking I want something like yours and Tim from Australia's design's, I am thinking of possibly doing a rough sketch in the next few weeks, I was thinking a single backbone but then a longer collar than Tim's to be able to adjust the length for different projects in the future, plus I was thinking of having a good level base so that I can use a laser level for fitting the body panels, I saw one previous GTM owner use this method on Youtube.Quote:
Originally Posted by D Clary
Thanks for the input.
Harry
Hi Harry
Here’s the layout for my trolley. Some of the dimensions and sizes are a bit odd, because I used up as much leftover steel as I could. Overall width of the black frame is 1500mm and the length is 2300mm. The second dolly I made was the same width, but shorter because I ran out of steel
Attachment 34698
The black “T” frame and the cross pieces on the far end are all 90mm x 90mm square hollow section
The silver castor/stand sliders are all 100mm x 100mm square hollow section. There is about 4mm clearance so all parts slide fairly easily.
I drilled 5 holes in each of the silver sections at 40mm centers, then lots of holes in the black main frame at 50mm centers. This allows each sliding section to be moved 10mm before a set of holes align, so basically any part can be positioned to within 10mm.
All the sliding sections can be reversed by knocking off the end caps. I did this to support my open wheeler at the front, the two stands can be as close as about 200mm apart.
The cheapie car stands (Supercheap brand) were $19 for two, and saved a heap of fabrication time. I tried to line them up directly above the castors so there aren’t any “tipping over“ forces.
One mod I have made from the above picture is to replaced the two fixed (non swiveling) castors at the near end with swiveling castors. The castors came in a four pack, two fixed + two swiveling. Cheap, but a pain in the …… Four swiveling castors makes it much more flexible to reposition. Castors were bolted to a drilled/tapped 10mm thick plate, in turn welded to the sliders
Attachment 34699
Length was 300mm, 5 holes at 40mm centers starting 50mm from the outside end. The holes aren’t exactly on centerline on the silver 100mm x 100mm SHS section because of the clearance between the 100mm SHS and the 90mm SHS.
Attachment 34700
The center slider length was 380mm with 5 holes at 40mm centers starting 50mm from the end.
Cheers
Tim
Hey Tim Thanks for the reply, this is my kinda of measuring metric, although I was around in the UK under the imperial system, my Toyota van is metric here in the US, but still most things are still in old imperial, I am going to have a look around to see what steel is available and if it is ok with you use a similar system to your dolly as I would need it to come apart after using it, also I would want to make it more universal so the castors would also slide along to adjust the width and the center section could also be adjustable, also I was thinking of making the uprights adjustable so I could level the frame up if so, will try to find some materials first but I thank you for sharing your information with us, deffinatly be putting the swivel casters on as I will have limited space, so being able to move something around easy will be a great help.Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgyTim
Am I right in saying that Australia drives on the left same as the UK, as I may have to move back to the UK earlier than expected so would be good to note someone building the kit with the steering on the right hand side or is not a FFR option.
On a small side note as not sure if you are a footy fan but it was a great grand final, when I lived in the UK I played the sport from 8 years old until around 33, I get all the Aussie and British games over here.
Thanks again for the detailed notes.
Harry
Sorry to bother you, but I have been going over the thread for a while. I did not have a donor pallet, but bought a salvage car. I was able to get some free pallets at work and have built me dolly from those. The one question I have is
On post #67 you give them measurements of the blocks you support the frame with and if my calculations are correct then it is 5.75", but I can't find the other measurement , is it 8"?
Chef, no bother at all. I'm always glad to see a new post but I'm not sure what you are asking. It's been a long time since I have thought about this dolly since I'm now thinking about the best way to install the power windows. After checking Post #67, the front blocks were 5" and the rears were 6"? Perhaps someone who has more recent experience with this dolly can reply, I hope.
Soon you've start putting things together, rather than taking them apart. Enjoy the journey!
My experience with the dolly is the center beam is the pits as it right at the cockpit tunnel and doing work under the car is a real pain. The front and rear mounts did not get in my way except when trying to do the under the car aluminum (sealing up the undercarriage).Quote:
Originally Posted by AZPete
Thanks for the quick responses, what I am looking for the dimensions of the 5" high and 6" high blocks that the car sits on. From what I have read it seems they are 5" high in front and 6" high in back with them being 5.75" wide but how long are they?
I made mine as long as the width of the cross beam, the height will very on how much room you need under the car, too high and it is hard to get in/out of car when you are doing the interior. Once you sit the car on the dolly you may have to make additional changes in height and location of the front/rear cross beam.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chef818
Could the blocks be made so that they will stack? Lower one would be high enough to get the jack under, and upper one high enough to get under the car?
What was the width of you cross beam?