longislandwrx/Insert Cool Nickname Here Build Thread

Unboxed the fuel pump components yesterday, I was originally going to run a 255 Walbro but with a possible E85 tune down the road I didn't want to have to take the car apart right away to change out the pump.

I ordered a 320 LPH pump from Deatschwerks. It is rated for e85 and supposed to be a little quieter as well. I looked at the Aeromotive 340 stealth but they had so much doom and gloom on their website and recommended a 10 hr filter change for e85 so i'll just stick with DW for now.

It also means I don't have to touch the donor tank as new wiring is included.

I finished my fuel system today and thought I'd share some pointers. I'll cross post this in the fuel system thread.

Attachment 23140

0. Cut 3/16 off the bottom tank mounting flanges before you start, it will make the tank so much more maneuverable.

Attachment 23137

1. Don't install the breather first. The instructions say to do it first but you need the hole to look through to make sure your sock is sitting flat in the baffle area.

2. The hose clamp that holds the pump was too big to fit through the hole, It may have been the diameter of my aftermarket fuel pump but I'm pretty sure it was the same size as stock. To get around it you can either bend the metal around the hole or get a lower profile hose clamp.

3. None of the clips on the electrical connectors actually clip onto the sockets, they just slide off, I used a zip tie to clamp it on to the connector.

Attachment 23138Attachment 23139

4. Make sure you have the fill hose on before you drill your holes to mount the tank, I bolted the bottom down only to find out it was a hair too tight and wouldn't slip on. I had to move it 1/8th

5. I just used a 9v battery to check the connections once it was buttoned up. easier than getting a battery charger and leads.


anyone know why we got so much fuel fill hose?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by longislandwrx

anyone know why we got so much fuel fill hose?

---

the first fill tube required more hose, when you get the correct one shorter pieces are needed on each end.

I had all of those issues and solved them the same way!

Have you done the Master Cylinder yet? Man- Kinda a pain- Clearance for nuts/bolts is an issue on the pedal cluster (after you drill). I'm going to have to grind down one side of a nut big time. They make it seem so easy in the manual.... But they don't address what most people are going to run in to.

We all had that issue. Grind half a bolt head and insert the bolt inside to outside or cut a hole in the steering column. I did the latter.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mechie3

We all had that issue. Grind half a bolt head and insert the bolt inside to outside or cut a hole in the steering column. I did the latter.

---

I did the prior

Sorry for the Hijack Jeff-
Do you think I'm OK with M6 10.9 hardware instead? I'm a little unsure- But I could use M8 10.9 and grind.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by C.Plavan

Sorry for the Hijack Jeff-
Do you think I'm OK with M6 10.9 hardware instead? I'm a little unsure- But I could use M8 10.9 and grind.

---

M6 is too small

I used 1/4 -20 grade 8 socket head cap screw with a washer ground flat on one side cockpit to front (nut on outside)

I used 5/16 grade 8 socket head bolts from the inside out.
I had to grind just a bit on the pedal box bracket so the head would sit flush.
2 mc bolts were 1.5" other 3 were 1"
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1383534380

I have not done it yet but appreciate all the suggestions. I thought about using a socket head like Bob suggested. Seems like less grinding and a lot easier to get an Allen key in there than an open end wrench.

I think on my next one I will probably weld the heads in place and put nuts on the inside...this way if you ever need to change the master, you don't need two people. Once it's all together you not going to be able to touch both pieces at the same time

I'll get the rest of the pictures up here soon but step one to fitting the shifter lower is to trim the width of the base down to 5.25 to allow it to fit between the aluminum.

I used a thin sawzall blade by hand and cleaned it up with a file. Still plenty strong at all corners.

Attachment 23286


Then add one of these:

Attachment 23287

http://www.twmperformance.com/shorts...rtshifters.htm

on sale shipped for $170. Used code THANKSTWM

The shifter has a 2.5" height reduction, and modified pivot to reduce throw.

Combined with the custom drop mounting, the overall setup lowers the knob about 6 inches from FFRs setup and reduces the throw by about 35%

I think if you reduce the arm by 5.25", you will find that is way more than a 35% reduction in throw and the feel will be less than optimum...:confused:

No the arm is only 2.5" shorter, my base is mounted 2.5" below the bottom of the rails. Adding the thickness of the rails, the overall is lowered 6" from FFRs config.

I edited the original post for clarity, Ill get the rest of the pictures up and It will all be obvious.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves

I think on my next one I will probably weld the heads in place and put nuts on the inside...this way if you ever need to change the master, you don't need two people. Once it's all together you not going to be able to touch both pieces at the same time

---

Agreed!!

Installed. Getting the short throw lever installed is a pain, the spring clip holding the rod is in there so tight I needed to cut it off rather than prying as recommended.
The retainer clips are also a pain to get back on, but man what a difference. I'll be hooking the cables up tonight but I'm already impressed.

Attachment 23362

The shifter is mounted below the rails with 4 1/4x4 grade 8 bolts and 2" nylon spacers. I bought some 1/2" spacers as well but as of now i'm happy with where it sits. when the seat is in I may go up or down a little.

The offset washer was first cemented into place so it would not rotate, then I lined up and drilled the mounting holes from the top and assembled everything. I was worried about wobble but it is Incredibly strong as it sits now.

Attachment 23363

The difference in height is huge. I installed a shift knob that a friend had made me (not the one I am going to use) and the height has been reduced from approximately 12.5" to right around 7" off the rails.

What an improvement. I will also check tonight to make sure everything clears the FFR supplied cover, but I see no reason why it shouldn't.

there is no way that my wire bundle would fit underneath...

there's more room than it looks. The rails are about 8" off the floor of the car, there's at least 4" underneath. 4x5 is a lot of room for wires.

Oh, wow...I had to look at that second picture for a while before I saw how much room there is below the shifter. On first gloss, it looks like the shifter is sitting on the lower rails... But it's not, it's suspended below the upper rails, leaving all that room under the shifter base. Yes?

Correct, tons of room under there for wiring. I'll post a profile picture tonight. I'll be installing the tunnel, cables, boot and the surround to see how it all fits.


I have the Cobb double adjustable short throw on my WRX it would just be too hard for me to get used to the ape hanger shifter setup.

nice idea, makes me want to rethink it, but i like the shifter up high feel, just not the look, function over form for me.

Terrible, terrible, terrible idea.......






because now you make me want to undo everything I've already done. :p lol

I like that. I am one of those who prefer short and FIRM throw rather than the long throw and super easy to engage that you don't even know whether you are in the gear or not.

But I will use K-Tuned's aluminum shifter, I don't know yet how low I can adjust/cut it, or even reduce the throw without cutting the rod.

The throw on the shifter isn't that long in stock form. It's just tall. Functionally it's right next to the wheel for easy shifts. Visually it looks like you'd be swining that thing 5 inches. It really only moves about 2" total for a 1-2 shift.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mechie3

Terrible, terrible, terrible idea.......
because now you make me want to undo everything I've already done. :p lol

---

Well it's an easy switch, unless you already cut into your tunnel aluminum. I was thinking of making an aluminum base for it to sit on but its already so stable.

Attachment 23366

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Frank818

But I will use K-Tuned's aluminum shifter, I don't know yet how low I can adjust/cut it, or even reduce the throw without cutting the rod.

---

The k tuned is an amazing piece, this was done as an option to for those who don't want to spend the 600+ on the k tuned.

I wonder what kind of credit FFR will give you for declining the bracket, cables, shifter assembly and boot.

I'm $180 into it right now.

I've also got big plans for the other end where it attaches to the transmission.

Looking good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by longislandwrx

Well it's an easy switch, unless you already cut into your tunnel aluminum.

---

Tunnel aluminum? I drilled the holes on top, but those will be covered or utilized anyways. My bigger issue is I welded cross bars in place since I messed up the tunnel steel on top. No biggie there. Just drilling out the rivnuts and using a shoulder washer or welding up the holes and drilling smaller ones.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by longislandwrx

there's more room than it looks. The rails are about 8" off the floor of the car, there's at least 4" underneath. 4x5 is a lot of room for wires.

---

there is a LOT of wires... If I put the lighting down the side like Chris did... (metalmaker) I'd have room, I'm planning on bringing it up the center tunnel.

I cut the aluminum tunnel top off and made the sides permanently attached. I'm going to cut the length of the shifter arm, as Craig said the throw is fine, it is just too tall.

Exactly, your holes may not be lined up, but what's a few more 1/4" holes though :D. I'm guessing you'll be carpeting over it anyway.

I may end up moving it forward or backward when I get my column/steering wheel/seats all buttoned up. I took some measurements and I should be close but you never know until it's all in there.

I'm assembling my radiator support now, going to do all the sheet metal on it as well. any reason why it can't be removed afterwards to maintain the space in the garage?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Frank818

But I will use K-Tuned's aluminum shifter, I don't know yet how low I can adjust/cut it, or even reduce the throw without cutting the rod.

---

I have Wayne's K-tuned shifter kit already (note: he's modified it for shorter rear exit cables, and provided very nice new custom cables and a bracket); I haven't installed it yet, but it has multiple throw settings, and a two piece shaft design which lets you adjust the position of the offset the knob. If all that isn't enough adjustment for you, it appears it would be straight forward to modify for any realistic position you might want.

So far, I'm very impressed with both the shifter and the parts Wayne's provided. Everyone who's seen it has gone ga-ga. It's one of the few 'splurges' I've spent so far, it will be naked (no boot) and the centerpiece of my cockpit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wleehendrick

he's modified it for shorter rear exit cables

---

So on most shifter kits you can modify the throw by changing the cables' length?
Sorry to ask, I know not much about shifting parts!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Frank818

So on most shifter kits you can modify the throw by changing the cables' length?
Sorry to ask, I know not much about shifting parts!

---

no you reduce the height, reducing travel, or modify the cable attachment point with changes your leverage/cable travel. This can be done on either end. A short throw does it on the shifter side, a redrilled hole on FFRs bracket accomplishes the same task.



here is a great article and actually very relevant since the shifter assembly is the same/similar.
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=210641

Great! Tnx a lot for that again! As always.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Frank818

So on most shifter kits you can modify the throw by changing the cables' length?

---

No, what I was referring to is that the FFR shifter (out of a Toyota) has cables that run forwards; You have to then loop them around back to the tranny; they end up being very long. The k-tuned shifter (designed for a Honda) is the same configuration stock, but Wayne set it up so the cables exit to the rear, and can run right over the gas tank; they're therefore much shorter. The cables he provided are sweet, so I'm hoping for a great shifter feel.

No problem sir

I picked the TWM because it is so short but has the same lower rod length as the TRD unit. Obviously TRD spent more monies on R&D then any of the others so I like that number, the difference is upper rod length which is easily changed with a taller shift knob if needed.

looks good I was thinking of doing the same thing after I get all my wires in and cleaned up...so many wires :/

Last post about the shifter, installed the boot, new delrin shift knob and cables.

Very happy with the whole look and feel.

Attachment 23540Attachment 23541

Gosh darn it man! I plan on using Delrin too! I thought it was a rather unique idea, but I guess not... :(

Well it's lightweight and wont get hot in direct sunlight so I figured it was perfect for this application, I also have an STi knob which is one of my favorites but heavy, and two different machined aluminum ones, but they get hot!