That is excellent! What were the hot pressures on the tires? a hop sounds more like shock adjustment to me than pressure. Can't wait to get ours out there now!
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That is excellent! What were the hot pressures on the tires? a hop sounds more like shock adjustment to me than pressure. Can't wait to get ours out there now!
Yeah, very lucky glad it wasn't any worse. We haven't seen anything like this happen in our nearly 100 builds thus far, but this was build #1 so we will investigate and take care of Anthony in whatever way that needs to happen. First thoughts are the alternator internally shorted or grounding issue but we'll sort it out.
-Brian
I have full faith in you Brian as you are a great vendor, and do excellent work, we just want to understand why this happened and why the inline fuse did not prevent this.Quote:
Originally Posted by iWire
We raised the ride height about a 1/4" and raised the tire pressures to 26/28 (we were at 24 and 26) and that stopped the hop, but then Tome let out pressure and the hop was back in the 4/5 turn sweeperQuote:
Originally Posted by RetroRacing
Thanks Anthony! We'll get to the bottom of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Are you talking about the right hander at the end of the front straight (when running no chicane)? I've had that happen there, and it was do to too much grip, compressing the springs to the point that the shocks can't handle the rebound, so it bounces to the outside. Reducing grip, and skating through the corner works, but the tire overheats and you get allot of degradation. Increasing front rebound, or effective rear spring rate to get it to rotate, or raise front ride height if you think you may be bottoming out the bump stops (cool trick, put a plastic wire tie on the shock shaft at the top of the shock body. Do a session, then check how far the wire tie got pushed up the shaft. It should be at least an inch from the bump stop).
Quote:
Originally Posted by RetroRacing
We did not have time to get hot temps because of all the issues we had.
Brian, thanks for jumping on this issue to help resolve !Quote:
Originally Posted by iWire
Quick news clip of the Rose Cup race, about 20sec in you will see the 818R
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haHsgY8DEgQ
I want to thank Brian @ iWire for jumping on the issue I had relative to the harness, it looks like the alternator shorted and caused issues, we are still not 100% sure but things sure point to that as the cause. The harness was pulled and sent to iWire, they completely replaced/updated the harness and it is on the way to me now, so we will install over the weekend, so we can get back out on the track in August. Once again iWire comes through with great customer service !
Attachment 71750
Great News Tony.
Tony I have a 2005 STI OEM Alternator available if you want it.
Thanks Gator, I have one extra here also, as I used a BRAND NEW (not refurbished) and that one broke a brush and that's is where we things went wrong. So hopefully we will be at the next race in Portland on the 19/20. Did you figure out what happened to your engine, any update ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator
Yep. The cracked expansion tank neck let air into the cooling system. The air bubbles created pockets under the closed deck. In race conditions the air pockets heated up and fried the rings which scored the block. We have a new short block coming from Rallispec.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Oddly, the coolant and oil temps never registered as hot. I only realized something was wrong when during my pre-race check on the second day I noticed that the coolant overflow bottle level was at the exact same point as the day before. That never happens! So I popped off the expansion tank cap and saw that it was dry. It took me 15 minutes to find the cracked expansion tank neck problem. The overflow bottle stayed the exact same because there was no suction to pull coolant back into the system.
The new tank went on and either I didn't burp it enough (trying to make it to Qualifying) or the damage was already done.
A totally weird kind of failure that only race cars would probably ever see. Like your new alternator brush failure setting your car on fire!
Cracked expansion tank neck and new plastic version tank. Attachment 71787...Attachment 71788
Im checking our tomorrow!
Car is heading to Portland International Raceway for test and tune day tomorrow and hopefully racing Saturday and Sunday in SPM class, hope all holds together.
Have fun
fingers crossed this time..... Good luck Tony.
Good luck Tony! Wish I could be there to see it. I'll be in Oregon in September 9th through 16th... any races at PIR, ORP, etc during that time that you plan on attending?
Good luck! we get to take our engine out again! yeah!!!
How did it go Tony?
Things did not go well, I may be selling soon, as engine would not go over 4K, as soon as boost came on that was it. So back in tough with iWire as we hope its the speed sensor issueQuote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
Oh crap. :( Hope you find the issue and keep the car.
Tony,Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
You probably have a mix up in the 3 wires going to the vss sensor itself. Depending on year, type (FXT,STI,WRX,NA) i've seen inconsistencies in color code.
We had a similar problem when we replaced our transmission with a newer (2012) mt5 that was not machined for a VSS sensor.
We switched to a prox sensor on the front wheel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=236077&viewfull=1#post236077
Been working perfect for over a year now.
Bob
So glad we didn't keep the stock wiring and ECU....I hate electrical issues, would rather deal with fire damage. :p
Sorry to hear of the issues Tony. I'd sure love to see you get it working but can understand how frustrating it must be.
If you have a Cobb Tuner Accessport. Just disable VSS through it and flash. Simple as that for my car. I had a Legacy GT transmission (Which does not have a VSS sensor) I never had any issues.
New speed sensor harness (thanks to iWire) on the way so we will give it another shot for test and tune on September 1st at Portland International Raceway, and hopefully this will fix the problem
VSS wasn't connected that weekend due to not having the jumper harness to convert the body plug style to the transmission jumper plug, this will fix it. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
https://www.iwireservices.com/produc...ss-02-07-turbo
Quick test around block seems to be OK, heading to track tomorrow and will see, thanks for the VSS harness Brian !Quote:
Originally Posted by iWire
Godspeed. (or faster)
Well the car ran well and we were sorting out the tire pressure issues and shock issues, water and oil temps were great, it was close to 100 out and the car was at 180 water and 200 oil temp. The last session the drive pulley on the dry sump pump came loose (we have not yet determined why or how) and the belt jump off and well you know the story, a toasted engine !
https://vimeo.com/232134004
Tony, say it ain't so.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Is that you second or third engine this summer?
I think we are running the same scavenge pump as you. I thought that if that pump failed, the crankcase would just fill with oil and bring everything to a stop.
Sorry to hear about your problems.
Bob
We have not fully assessed the damage, but the cloud of smoke was overwhelming, no holes in engine block, but when we popped the over, we saw the belt to the dry sump pump was off and the pulley was freely moveable along the pump shaft, so the pulley moved out of belt alignment and threw the belt and that was it, we have no idea how or why the pulley issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
You can see in video that the car has some steering hop in the left hand turns, it seemed to get less when the tires headed up. The car is fast and handles well when running, we were running the 260hp tune so only 15lb of boost. So there is a lot more potential in speed and handling,
I swear.... 818R curse. :(
Sorry to hear that Tony.
It has been a long time since I driven PIR, your video brings back some fond memory's.
Wow, hope it gets sorted out for you.
Just in case of a curse I have a line for an exorcist....
Tony, I'm SO sorry to hear about this!!!! I can't imagine how frustrated you must be. I hope you are able to get it back together quickly and cheaply.
The engine may not be toast. Since you are running scavenge only (no engine oil pressure off the DS pump) the engine should have filled with oil until it blows out the aos and /or PCV and/ or the valve cover vents back to the DS tank. As I recall you still have the PCV or AOS hooked up which would explain the oil cloud. You may be just fine. Reattach he DS belt, remove one of the scavenge out lines from the DS pan and drain the block out. Clean out your intake if the aos or pcv are still connected to it. The intercooler and all the intercooler tubes will probably be coasted in oil too. Lots of cleaning to do, but maybe no mechanical damage. Empty the aos can. Reattach the DS line to the pan and refill the DS tank. Give it a start!
Same thought as Gator, the OEM pump is still supplying pressure.