Crash, thanks for he info as I have been trying different blades with various success, I will get one like the one you mentioned and give it a whirl, has to be better than what I was using.
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Crash, thanks for he info as I have been trying different blades with various success, I will get one like the one you mentioned and give it a whirl, has to be better than what I was using.
Already ordered one. Yeah, from what you're saying it has to be light years better than what I've been using. The regular body saw blades...you can get about 10-15 minutes of use out of each blade and they're completely shot.
Finally got the new dash pod bolted down. It fits like a glove!
Attachment 115845Attachment 115846
That's more than I can say for the PSG side piece, which was simply skinned.
I'm not sure why it's not matching the contour any longer, but it couldn't have
grown that much?
Attachment 115847Attachment 115848
I'm not sure what to do with the center console, most likely a flat CF.
This whole body and interior is coming out again soon. I just wont be happy
unless it's done over from scratch. The video will explain more. :(
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2ddgM6T3Ng
The tear down has begun. I'm ripping out all of the wiring and starting fresh. While the interior is gutted,
the console is getting chopped to make room for a bigger touchscreen. The red line in the photo is the
planned shape.
https://www.ffcars.com/attachments/hoist-jpg.356335/
https://www.ffcars.com/attachments/console-jpg.356333/
Also having some thicker gauge vent covers made up. I'm not liking the bent aluminum look very much.
https://www.ffcars.com/attachments/vent-jpg.356334/
Lastly, the LCD system got a fresh graphic. It's a mix of LaFerrari, McLaren 720S, and some personal
touches. I've given up on the space-tech theme and going with a more performance oriented feel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkKOYjmlMeo
Very nice!
Most of the front end wiring has been removed, and not a moment too soon. Besides wanting to clean up the original wiring,
and matching fuse positions to functions, I've always wanted to re-locate or re-position the battery for easier access and removal.
Attachment 118638
As I removed the negative cables, it was apparent that my battery had slid backward. The scary part is that the painted frame
and design of the battery case saved me from absolute and inevitable damage.
Attachment 118636Attachment 118637
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzk9ZFQBkxU
I'm getting a quote on new air vents for the windshield defrost. Draft one isn't bad, but I'll have to move
the screw holes inward so the heads are not exposed at the edge. If anyone likes the design and wants the
CAD file, I'll send it (Fusion - .F3D). I'm hoping to get a 3D print done by tomorrow for test fitting.
Attachment 118639
Beeman is rubbing off on me, I'm cutting up my car! :eek: The center console section is getting dropped down
8 inches to fit a bigger LCD screen in place of the Double DIN unit.
The shifter is lower by 5 inches as it sits. I'll have to stick the seat in there to get a feel for everything
before the welding begins.
Attachment 119964Attachment 119968Attachment 119969
If anyone wants some decent software for making wiring diagrams, give TinyCAD a try. It also does
simulation if you're doing some advanced projects. Digikey also has a wiring CAD, but it's only available
online. TinyCAD is not as pretty, but it will let you visualize the gauge, and also get the colour down
just like the vehicle wiring harness. You can move objects around, and the wiring will remain intact
which is nice.
Attachment 119965
Test fitting of the new vent design looks good. It's currently sitting on top of the existing
cover, but it will sit flush once screwed down. No more bent, aluminum! I think I'll get
them done with a Black, anodized finish?
Attachment 119966
A new kill switch which is a bit prettier than my previous switch.
Attachment 119967
The great thing about the GTM - build it how you want it!
Just remember that FFR used CAD and FEA to design the chassis for rigidity. The center backbone gives the chassis rigidity in the region of the door openings since there are no full length door bars. I doubt you would even notice changes in chassis rigidity after modifying the backbone in a street car with the roof structure intact. I modified my roof structure so I added beefy door bars...
I ended up buying a windshield vent kit from Summit, it has pretty nice black plastic vents.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991104-2
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...91104-2_ml.jpg
Actually, I did notice a bit of a 'buckle' with only one bar cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeman
The chassis is also supported by the hoist at the insides of
the wheel wells where the footwell and fuel tanks meet.
I'd imagine it would be worse with weight on wheels.
It makes me want to extend the bar to the HVAC enclosure
and build an 'x' bar in between.
That buckle you felt was just the result of tension created in the chassis metal from expansion/contraction by the welding process, not anything bad. Your GTM just let out a sigh of relief.
Tough to say as the blade got jammed as if the interior folded inward, but I was expecting the upper cage to hold it back. In any case,Quote:
Originally Posted by beeman
I hope you're correct!
At the very least, I'm going to weld in some matching tube stock (the green outline) and maybe add the third piece depending on how
the structure reacts when I cut the second bar:
Attachment 120090
Now...the fun of lowering the parking brake, and making close-out panels. What have you done with your tunnel pieces? I suppose
buying some sheets of aluminum and cut-to-fit?
It's all cut, and no drama with buckling. I guess you were right Beemz!
The new shifter position feels great. Aside from being a few inches further away from the
steering wheel (note to racers for the extra .020 of a second to reach the shifter), It's a wrap.
Now the fun begins glassing in the new screen. It will sit back about 2 inches, with a bit more
tilt toward the windshield. It gives me goose bumps thinking about the finished look.
https://scontent.fybz2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c8&oe=5EB0C447
I'm not even going to bother relocating the parking brake. I though it would look out of place,
but she looks good there; I'll just rotate it down a bit. The gap between the console and waterfall is gone too.
Attachment 120141
If anyone wants a turn stalk and wiper stalk, it's yours with shipping. I'm moving my lights and
wipers to the touchscreen/steering wheel buttons. I may have to hire Sean to make me a CF
steering wheel attachment!
Attachment 120142
Man, that carbon fiber looks superbly awesome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Procision-Auto
Yes Sir!
How did you get the epoxy to stay consistent with the curves and contours? That’s a really good job!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Procision-Auto
I can't pretend to take a shred of credit for that work. I sentQuote:
Originally Posted by Aircontroller
those out to a local boat guy that does FG and CF for a living.
The mold is made, so if you (or anyone else) wants a carbon or
Fiberglass copy, let me know.
A little photo editing to bring it closer to home. So much work to do. :/
Apparently my car is going 160 MPH without a steering wheel, in the garage...with dirty seats...in PARK! Believe it!
P.S. Dave, the buckle was the force of the gear shift/cable! :o
https://scontent.fybz2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b6&oe=5EA1E93C
https://scontent.fybz2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f7&oe=5EA6F152
This Rear Diffuser is going to be "fun" to make. Start with cardboard and thin sheets of wood to get the basic shape, then add fiberglass?
What would "GTM Jesus" do (besides watch YouTube how-to videos)?
https://scontent.fybz2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6a&oe=5EA49B5E
Tino I'm not understanding what your trying/asking to do - - Is it the wing that your trying to make?Quote:
Originally Posted by Procision-Auto
Thanks
Ron
Rear diffuser. Just wondering how the pros do this before I break out my scissors and reciprocating saw.
You can watch videos where people use just modeling clay covered with foil and then fiberglass. Then they remove all the clay and are left with a fiberglass panel. You could certainly do this with any kind of support such as wood or cardboard also. Fact is, I have some videos I haven't posted yet where I say that those that want to do fiberglass panels should become wood working craftsmen first because you will basically make a ton of stuff out of wood first. The real issue is if you want a professional finish or just something that "works"? The proper way is to shape what you want from wood, cardboard, whatever. Usually filling in blanks with lots of body filler. I have used 18 gallons of body filler on my revised GTM body so far, along with lots of wood and about a gallon of expanding foam. Once you have the shape exactly as you want then coat the "plug" with a quality primer and paint to make the surface clean and smooth. Once that is done, cover the plug with release agent and make a mold. Plenty of videos on how to do this online. Then make finished parts from the mold. Hand layup will work just fine but if you want a part that is half the weight then infusion is the way to go.
Kinda surprised you haven't done this process already on this project?
This guy has some good videos...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5A7_oPAw9c
Thanks Mike, I'll check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by crash
Body work is something I've always feared. Not because I'm scared to try something new, but more that I want the paint to be
perfect and this was not a project that I wanted to test my skills upon. In fact, our good buddy Ron was invited up here because
I wanted an experienced GTM guy/bodyman to show me the ropes.
Sanding, filling, and shaping - I've learned a great deal.
As for actually making something from scratch, it has never been done on my part (until now). I'll be revamping the console
for the LCD touchscreen, and while I'm doing that I'll attack the diffuser. Let's see where it goes!
Okay. Now it comes down to how inexpensive, and labor intensive you want to go
Quick hit one time shot: mock up CAD (carboard aided design) to get the desired shaped. cover it with silver tape, parchment paper whatever so it the fiberglass or carbon won't stick to it, and lay your material down.
If you have deep pockets money is no object you can still CAD make a sturdy model, take it to your guy that did your dash pods. :cool:
Thanks
Ron
That's pretty much a given; I'd like to wrap it in carbon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Presto51
I guess I'll buy some wood and get started my CAD design
Are you using the stock diffuser and modifying it/adding to it.....or are you planning on making the entire diffuser from scratch?
Have to start fresh because of my little gizmo thingie [oil accumulator] behind the transaxleQuote:
Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
https://scontent.fybz2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...db&oe=5EA20A1A
Well, from your photoshop pics above, it looks like you're going for something similar to the stock diffuser, lowered down like the Gen II....so hopefully you can at least use your existing diffuser and cut it up/modify it to create the "base" for moulding your new piece. Yeah.....this is a lengthy and tedious process as to do it right, you will have to fabricate exaclty what you want, then create a mould from that part, then create a part from that mould. Been there many times. I would suggest using urethane pour foam #3 to get an initial shape of something like you have shown in the center of that first photoshop pic. Build your "platform" out of the stock diffuser, pour the foam right on top of it inside a simple box/dam to contain the foam from just spreading out everywhere, then tear away the box from the foam once it sets up and from there you can use a saw and surform cheesegrater to get the shape you're looking for, then sand the foam smooth with sandpaper and then you can paint over the foam with latex paint and then use mould release agent and make your mould. The fiberglass resin will eat the foam almost instantly, so you have to be sure that the foam is 100% covered with latex paint before you attempt to fiberglass over it.
You also have to keep in mind all of your angles to be sure that whatever you're taking a mould of can be removed from the mould and your finished part can be removed from the mould.
Would your Accusump fit in the huge space behind one of the rear tires on a simple frame/mount?
Or like Shane said, if you modify your current Accusump mounts, you could probably leave it where it is and just angle the diffuser down like the Gen 2, which is better than the Gen 1 for evacuating heat and is probably a more effective diffuser angle (I'm not quite to that point on my build).
No can do. There is some plumbing and a priming valve on the left, gauge on the right. We'll see if I can manage this task; the wood has beenQuote:
Originally Posted by beeman
purchased. Let the good times roll.
Attachment 120292
Yes, I want the air gap like the Gen II. Unfortunately, I gave away the Gen 1 diffuser - didn't like the look, so I'm really making itQuote:
Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
difficult on myself!
Pretty sure I have an extra Gen II diffuser here if you are interested in it.....the shipping would be the killer....especially to Canada...can't even imagine what that would come to?
Thank you for the generous offer, but I'm not sure it would fit with the additional mount. I'm going to give this fabrication a try!Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
Working with the pourable foam and shaping it is not a bad idea at all and is pretty simple to do..
We generally combine plasma-cut pieces of aluminum along with the pour foam. Create a "grid" or rows of CNC cut alum parts that represent the outer surface shape we're after, bond those pieces in place on the part we're building off of/modifying, pour the spaces in between the alum parts full of foam and then sand the foam down to the aluminum to get the final shape. This way you can produce very symmetrical parts for both RH and LH sides of the car...because you're using the same CNC cut alum shape for both sides. Before I had my own CNC plasma table, I did the same thing by drawing the parts out in CAD, printing the CAD parts off on paper, gluing the paper to sheets of thin plywood (underlayment) and cutting the parts out with a bandsaw. Use hot glue to stick the wood parts grid down to a surface and then pour foam between them.
Attachment 120363
Look familiar?
This hurts my head...Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
I guess it's like anything, you have to try in order to build the skills and get the experience.
Better yet, how much to fly you down here and make me one? :p
Sure does! One of my favorite GTM mods EVER!Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
http://vraptorspeedworks.com/wp-cont...1-1024x768.jpg
The steering wheel plate I did was a cake walk compared to this discussion :cool:
I’m starting small and hope to work up to a large rear window replacement, similar to a Lambo type design, but one off. All this stuff is way down the road for me, but I love learning new things so I’m enjoying the reading here.
Curious to see what you can come up with! As discussed in other posts, effectiveness of the diffuser requires it to sit so much lower than the stock position, but it's hard to do and keep the aggressive good looks of the steep angle that the kit comes with.
A few updates as the nicer weather is motivating me to get back on the road! The rear diffuser is now being shaped by foam, glue, and a hot knife. It seems this approach will allow better lines and ease of mock up.
As I'm reviewing the car in more detail, I've found even more issues with the cooling system. I have no idea how this thing held together as long
as it did. Some hoses were loose fit without clamps, or incorrect sized clamps were used. The core valve was hanging by one rivet. Cracked heater core hose...a couple ends looked as though the were hacked by a dog's mouth?
Attachment 129124Attachment 129125
I've also decided to remove the aluminum barrier between the fans and battery area. Definitely a cleaner look. The new fuse box and relays
cleans up well.
Attachment 129126
I'm going to attempt relocating the A/C canister to allow better access to the battery. Will be a tough task with such rigid hoses.
The final resting place for the console has been decided. New aluminum panels will be made for each side.
Loving the glass on the dash and removal of turn/wiper stocks. Buttons will be placed on the steering wheel
and touchscreen.
Attachment 129127
What a crazy world right now. Not much motivation for me to work on the car, and that was already a problem
before this hammer dropped.
Slow moving, but I've added a new master kill switch and some black poly for mounting the electrical components.
Attachment 139410
I hope you're all doing well during this difficult time. If anyone's interested, I'm giving away/selling some old parts
that are no longer needed.
Give Away (shipping)
Light controller for 2017 Mustang, or 2017 Ford GT (if you want to sound cool).
Attachment 139411
FFR GTM coils, Gen 1
Attachment 139412
For Sale (PM for details)
High torque, mini starter for Chev/Pontiac SB
Attachment 139415
3 inch, polished aluminum sleeve
Attachment 139419
C5 door handles
Attachment 139420
More to come later.
Happy day after Easter everyone, I hope it was a good one.
Some snails-pace work on my car again. I'm making some paddles for a steering controller to operate
a few items from turn signals, flash to pass/High beam, wiper mist, media center, and even the horn.
Not having a turn stalk, or wiper stalk is nice on the eyes.
After a night of sleeping on buttons, I've decided to go with 2-tone black and white, as
opposed to colour coded.
Attachment 145704Attachment 145705Attachment 145706Attachment 145707
The newest skin based on the Lambo SVJ is going to be one of the graphics for the LCD display. I'm also
able to pick off the gear position with 4 limit switches and reverse signal from the transaxle.
Attachment 145708Attachment 145709