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I think 8 quarts is a lot of oil, you should have no oil temp problems even w/o cooler. Keep an eye on that sleeving as it can become brittle and flake away, sort of like burn. I have used it on plug wires before. You may need a small shield. Just keep and eye on it.
I bought another one of these Setrab oil cooler/fan pack set up. I use one as my trans cooler in the 911. It works great for its size and feel it would be perfect on the 818R as an oil cooler. I'm thinking of mounting it above the transmission. With its fan, you can really mount it anywhere.
http://i.imgur.com/NBqCLcUl.png
Does anyone know for a fact if the vent on top of the back hatch pulls air in, or pushes air out?
I have one of these, mine is a Setrab 119 Fanpack Fan Pack, and mine is going on the drivers side rear, with the fan I don't think I will need much external air, I don't want to pull from the bottom since I want to keep the flat aero there. I will also use a thermostatically controlled adapter to activate at 185-190%Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Ditto had the same issue I now use high temp poly tubing and push to lock fittings I got from from McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-con...ttings/=uhx6z2Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
Pics from current build
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/...psec24c1c4.jpg
Pics from my GD base race car
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/...psa16970cd.jpg
Cool setup!!
Biknman, Love the gold leaf...
Mine:
https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...44662945_o.jpg
I can't find what looks like your fittings at McMaster-Carr. Can you be more specific about the fittings and tubing?
Thanks!
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
The following is an examable of what I used:
on the manifold tap with 1/4 NPT threads push-to-connect stainless 1/4NPT to 1/4 tubing fittings http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-con...tubing/=ui8ymf
Attachment 35500
Also known as instant fittings, these fittings provide a quick and easy way to connect and disconnect plastic and soft metal tubing. To install, insert the tubing into the fitting until it stops. An internal gripping ring and O-ring hold the fitting secure and form a tight seal around the outside of the tubing. To disconnect, push on the release ring and pull the tubing out of the fitting.
and the tubing was 1/4 plastic hard vaccum rated high temp tubing http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-pl...tubing/=ui8vjl
I finished up mounting the Setrab oil cooler. I found the perfect spot for it. The fan is thermo switch controlled at 180 degrees so you can place it pretty much anywhere where there is air flowing around. I just need to make a couple easy lines in the AM and the total dry sump system with cooler will be completely done!
http://i.imgur.com/2uUCKnAl.png
http://i.imgur.com/TnNm28il.png
My only concern is the ambient air temperature in the rear engine bay... If it's ~220 degrees or higher (which I suspect it is), the cooler won't be very efficient....
I have to agree, off the the right or left in the side duct area would be a lower temp and you could make a box to block it off from the heat like an intake box. Heat is the enemy on this car. But I would run some data before you go and move what you have done. As we all know proper oil temp is very important, to low and you get the same issues as to high. I am actually a little concerned that the coolant system might be too efficient. Operating temp of the coolant system is barely happening at idle, than when we drive the system cools down more, which might make the thermo close again. Just an idea, but I will be testing this. Why I bring it up, it will effect oil temp on most setups also, besides other issues.
While I respect your opinions, this is a race car. It will not be stopped at red lights cooking the engine bay. Don't discount the position of the oil cooler yet. I have yet to see anyone that has an external oil cooler installed on a 818S, let alone a 818R. So hold your horses boys. I'll know the first time out if I need to duct or vent more.
The full exhaust is Ceramic coated to help keep temps down and then there are the vents that will keep the air flowing through. I'm not worrying about this like a TMIC. The fan on the cooler at a stand still is equivalent to 50+ mph of direct air movement over the cooler. Then there is the 8 quarts of oil in the dry sump.
So sit back and let me try to do my magic. :)
The side inlet location is where I plan on having my oil cooler.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...314204&thumb=1
This will fit in this spot. It's 13x8 overall. I do expect to have to modify the fiberglass and would like for there to be ductwork around it so hot air is channeled out the rear.
Chad, yours may work fine. I don't know about the air back there getting that hot. I will say that I don't think an intercooler belongs in the rear.
Where you have it mocked up is 6-8 inches in front of where the vent is with the body on. You could just weld on some straps to move it back- then remember about the aluminum wheel wells that are riveted in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
It's like a big jigsaw puzzle. I would wait until the end before mounting "Accessories". I cant count how many times I had to remove stuff because I got ahead of the build.
It's not if you move the inner wall of the side inlet back against the post and stop it there. I said I expect to modify the fiberglass. ;) The cooler is also at an angle.
I do appreciate the comment. I am just mocking things up with baling wire to visualize ideas.
The dry sump is finished! I'm just waiting on some left hand M8 nuts for the A/C tensioner so I can tighten the dry sump pump belt.
I installed the front Heat Exchanger, ran the lines, installed the Bosch pump and electrical.
I should have the 818R Version 2- burning up the neighborhood this weekend or sooner.
When is your next scheduled event?
I'm going to do some open test days with some buddies. Dec 14th at Buttonwillow Raceway for sure. However, I trying to get out there sooner to test.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeromeS13
Official race Schedule:
Feb 28 & March 1 - Willow Springs
April 18 & 19- Buttonwillow
May 16 & 17 - Auto Club Speedway
June 13 & 14- Buttonwillow
July 31- Aug 2- Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca *Western States Champs (will count for SoCal points)*
October 10 & 11- Buttonwillow
Do you have datalogging capabilities? (I can't recall). I really want to see what your IAT's are one track... Do you have a reservoir? If so, where is it mounted?
Yes. I added a IAT sensor to the AWIC core. It will log to my Traqmate and display in real time on my Traqdash display (I will set alarms to warn me if it gets over 140 degrees). No reservoir, hopefully shouldn't need one.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeromeS13
Yes! Congrats. So you gonna invite me out to your virgin run? I would love to come out with you and share notes, in addition I wanted you to take a few laps in my 818 and get/offer some perspective. Do you have any idea what config they run on open test days?
I like that oil cooler, however I can't seem to find it. Would you please point me in the right direction so I can copy another one of your great ideas?
Lastly, what additions constitutes Version 2?
Sure. Plan on Dec 14th for sure. I does not list the config yet for the track. I hope CW 13 or 1.
I need to get a handle on my own car before I jump into someone else's. I don't want to hurt it, but I would love to see the power difference from my stock turbo.
Oil Cooler with fan pack I bought here- http://www.kartek.com/Brand/168/Setrab.aspx?catid=62
Make sure to get the -12 adapters (2 of course). There is a thermal (-12 also) switch you can buy to turn the fan on at 180 degrees. I also bought the basic mount. Not sure if you need it. I bought everything except the oil cooler from https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
I'm thinking the oil cooler should work fine for its size and fan. Like I said earlier, I have one on my 911 trans to cool the oil and it does an outstanding job for its size. If it does not do the job, I can jump up to the bigger model and use the smaller one for the trans cooler (I would have to tap a spray bar into trans first).
Version 2 just means I had everything running before adding the dry sump and AWIC. It's new and improved.
I hurt my car every time I take it out so don't worry about it. ;)
I shouldn't laugh, I could be next! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando
I filled and bled the AWIC. It took about 1.5 gallons of distilled water. You can hear the air pockets working through because the water pump is so quiet. I'll try topping it off once I take her around the Loop.
I did add a couple of 1/2 pipe fittings. I did not like how the supplied top Heat Exchanger fitting caused the hose to kink. So I bought a 3" extender and a 90 degree angle. That cleared everything and the line was not kinking. Works great, no leaks!
http://i.imgur.com/WnLLsy2l.jpg
I'll clean up that trimming.
Some more pics: I'm just waiting patiently for my exhaust.
http://i.imgur.com/gGnngrPl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vI86Egul.jpg
I also installed the firewall back on, mounted the ECU on the cockpit side of the firewall, and ran the A/F wire cluster down the center console to the back.
Solid gold!
I offset my entire heat exchanger so the fittings angled right where yours do now.
What's up with your car, and honestly we should not all be having such issues, Possably something else is going on and we and FFR have missed it. It could be simple idkQuote:
Originally Posted by Brando
Motor is still apart. Unfortunately there wasn't anything blatantly conclusive. Pistons didn't look that bad at all. Rings on pistons 1 and 4 show some damage, and bearings on rod 1 went. Crank scored. New parts list is a crank and 1 rod so that isn't all that bad. I don't think this is a design flaw, I think there is something I am doing wrong and once I get some proper data logging I will have an a-ha moment. On this build I am doing an oil cooler like Chad did, also a Racepaq. Turns out they are a few miles from me, I met with them at Sema and am going to bring my car into them and have them set everything up.
My goal is to have it ready to run in 1 month so I can run a test day with Chad. I have everything I need to get my plates now, except a running car. I will update my thread when I have a little more info, and sorry for the hijack here Chad.
Was there oil in the intake ? What about pre detonation issues ? Did you have breather system (oil/air separator) ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando
Racepaq's are nice! I hope to see you there Brandon.
I got this working today. AWIC temp with tapped GM IAT sensor. I set the alarm and light for 140 degrees. Everything is working nicely.
http://i.imgur.com/36ZT3zUl.jpg
Ohh- I got it running again. 90 PSI oil pressure and the dry sump took 8 qts on the nose (fully dry)-
That's a pretty cool gadget.
Make sure you take video again next time you're at the track.
Thanks- It gets the job done. I can use it in both race cars without any hassle moving it. Plus it saves the settings for different race cars (sensors, rev limit, shift lights ect)
I figured some people may want to see the dry sump in action. You can wrap you head around all the lines.
http://youtu.be/ZP4OaKHQ7Ng
Nice stuff but is it normal your cluster says you are running out of gas? :)
Metal and Brando,Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmaker12
What was the coolant level in the fill tank (degas tank) after each engine failure?
Bob
Which way is your oil cooler fan blowing. I t looks like the fan should be on the other side of the cooler.
I dont ride the short bus on these things- :) . The fan blades are optimal for "pulling" air. That's why it is mounted that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by D Clary
http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/instruc...0rev060414.pdf
Didn't mean to insult, just asking
Not at all. I was being sarcastic, see the smiley face. I ride the short bus on other things. Like getting to know this EJ motor for the first time. Its all good.Quote:
Originally Posted by D Clary
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
I had a coolant leak, so my level will not help your theory. I am rather certain my leak and hitting the rev limiter often along with the iats getting very high made my head gaskets blow and caused some ringland failure. My bottom end was spotless. My motor does have the best oiling crank of all the ej engines and has a semi closed deck which helps it not spin bearings. The ej205 and ej255/57 tend to spin bearings more, especially with a improper tune
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
I had a coolant leak, so my level will not help your theory. When I drained the coolant I had about 2 gallons if that, so I lost a gallon and was sucking in air at full revs and did not know it till it was too late.
We should get T-shirts made up with a pic of the 818. haha
http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-11870...us-asphalt.gif
Whats wrong with my under engine panel?
http://i.imgur.com/YIozzm4l.jpg
I also was having fun with Mechie's louvers. They are stout.
http://i.imgur.com/1oWqvoPl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cV3kVq1l.jpg
I painted them last night and look great.