Power Surge's Coupe #692 Gen3 build...

Started working on the fuel system stuff also. I used my flat wide body vise grips to flatten the seams on the tank. I had some Killmat sound deadening material leftover from doing the interior in my Bricklin, so I put some on the top of the tank, the edge that contacts the frame, and the tank straps. I installed the Breeze oversize vent/rollover valve to help with fuel fill up. I opened the outlet of the fuel pick up for better flow, per FFR directions. I got some fittings and PTFE line from Racetronix (I get all my AN stuff from them). One of the neat parts they sell, is bolt on adapters for the stock quick release ends on the fuel pump pickup that gives you AN ports. I capped off the return line, but it's there if I have a need to use it in the future. I got the Aeromotive 12317 canister fuel filter, as the common used Trick Flow part is no longer available. Double the price, but a really nice piece. The tank will go in after I get the body off, but at least it's all ready to go.




https://i.ibb.co/pjyF8c99/20251130-133419.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/tPKR2gDL/20251130-135314.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/KxcvthHt/20251202-193124.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/MydFRNx7/20251202-193955.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/5gFwF3YJ/20251206-100548.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/h6y1QwW/20251206-101002.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/bTHGWQ7/20251206-101434.jpg

Racetronix is a great outfit. They have quite a selection of fittings. Your work is looking good.

Looks like you are making some good progress, keep it going. I also had to use the Aeromotive fuel filter canister since the Trickflow one was unavailable, both are nice quality. I have the Trickflow one on my engine run stand.

Thanks again Sal … the Moog tie rod ends that you sent me are really helping me out with my suspension geometry especially since I cut down my steering rack …. The Moog ends are a little longer and definitely provide better engagement over the stock units … your a rockstar for helping me out I really appreciate it Attachment 223174Attachment 223176Attachment 223175Attachment 223177 btw I finished painting that 55 Chevy that I’m working on at work check out the color in the sun !

No problem brother! I'm glad they helped you out. I couldn't use them because my shortened suspension....I actually had to use the supplied tie rods, and cut them down even shorter.

The 55 looks killer! I am definitely eager to see the progression of your paint and body work. I'm definitely serious about you painting my car when its time!

Nothing picture worthy to post right now, but definitely exciting things going on. I finally sold my Monroe Handler, so now I can start ordering up more parts!

Placed a big order with Forte's for my transmission stuff. Tremec TKX trans, bellhousing, clutch and related parts, genuine Ford clutch cable, and midshift shifter setup for the TKX.

Ordered the Digital Guard Dawg PCB-II RFIK passive ignition system. The PCB-II has programmable outputs, so I am going to use door popper solenoids (ordered those too).

Ordered the Auto-Vox rear camera mirror setup.

Ordered the E-Stopp electronic E-brake setup, to get rid of the visible e-brake handle. (I don't like the top mount handle, and relocating it to the pass side of the trans tunnel like original makes it hard to work).

I ordered a bunch of various size nylon wrap wire looming from McMaster-Carr, because I despise convoluted tubing on wiring harnesses :p.

Trying to order my wheels, but can't seem to get a hold of Bob Lacey.

I also started doing some panel rivet work. Man... it drives my OCD crazy that the self tapping screws FFR uses to secure the panels aren't centered in most of the panels. Thank god for the Aircraft-Spruce rivet spacing tool. With that, I can place a rivet hole over the screw hole, and then have a row of evenly spaced rivets.

I feel your pain on the self tapper. I am going to attempt to braze the holes closed with aluminum rod. What door poppers are you going to use?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by burchfieldb

I feel your pain on the self tapper. I am going to attempt to braze the holes closed with aluminum rod. What door poppers are you going to use?

---

Yes, the "stick a screw anywhere" approach from FFR, is making me use more rivets than needed on some panels, just to have even spacing, lol. It's ok though.

I am using some 50lb JDMspeed poppers from Ebay. About 50 bucks for the pair. Same ones most guys use on GTM builds.

I finally had some help today removing the body... so now I can do a lot more with the car.

I was able to get the tank up in the car, and as I was hooking up the straps, I realized I will probably need to pull it back out for the drop trunk setup. One thing to note, the tank FFR sent me now has the hole already in the lip, for the fuel neck retainer bracket. I'm not keen on how the bolt head just mashes against the frame. I put some Killmat there, but who knows how long before it wears through.

I mounted up the Aeromotive canister fuel filter, in the usual spot most people use. Installed some Rivnuts for mounting. The Harbor Frieght Rivnut tool worked so well, I thought it wasn't fully seating them because it was so easy, lol.

I want to run some kind of charcoal canister for tank vent fumes. Doing some searching here on the forum, I found a post about a guy using a factory Mopar tank vent canister that is compact and seemed to work great. It's a little pricey ($130), but I like the OE quality factor. I'll post pics and part number when I get it.

I also started drilling rivet holes! Lots and lots of holes, lol. I definitely need way more Clecos. It's an interesting process figuring out where to drill holes, based on available access, and other surrounding panels. Also noticed some panels need some clearancing where they rub against welds and other tight spots. I have to notch the front side panels for the brake line access (like EdwardB's setup), and I also have to notch my radiator panel to clear my moved in upper control arms.

https://i.ibb.co/zHjxTZxh/1000008330.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/cXSsKqHt/1000008331.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Wp2yXbDF/1000008332.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6RGt8KWL/1000008339.jpg

Hey Sal,
I couldn't get a picture to post with the message I sent, so I'll do it here.
This is my shifter location using a Tremec Forward Shift / Mid-Shift Kit on my TKX. It puts the shifter just a hair forward of center in the factory shifter cut-out.
The F5R supplied shifter boot will still work also. I personally did not like the feel of the shifter any further rearward, I found it awkward and uncomfortable even rotating the shifter 180 to the stock forward position.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 8secDuster

Hey Sal,
I couldn't get a picture to post with the message I sent, so I'll do it here.
This is my shifter location using a Tremec Forward Shift / Mid-Shift Kit on my TKX. It puts the shifter just a hair forward of center in the factory shifter cut-out.
The F5R supplied shifter boot will still work also. I personally did not like the feel of the shifter any further rearward, I found it awkward and uncomfortable even rotating the shifter 180 to the stock forward position.

---

Thanks Mike. I just wanted to make sure I needed the shifter relocation, which I know now that I do.

Do you happen to have a pic of how you mounted your rear brake hose brackets to the chassis? The manual is not very helpful for 3 link cars for where to mount them.

Nothing spectacular to report today.... just been plugging away at drilling rivet holes. Billions and billions of holes... :p

Got most of the footbox, floor, and cockpit panels fitted and drilled for rivets. Definitely have to fit some of these panels around weld beads and whatnot. I think this process is a good way to learn how everything will be laid out in the car.

Got some goodies from Brent at Snakebite. Really nice stuff. The drop trunk setup impressed me.

Waiting for my next batch of parts to be done at the powder coaters.

Got some crappy news from Bob at Vintage Wheels that the foundry that cast their FIA wheels closed down. They are working with a new foundry, but going to be a while before the FFR versions are done.

I ordered some black rivets for the panels that I plan to powder coat black. Yes, I might be a tad OCD, lol.

https://i.ibb.co/vxBjbV9Q/1000008380.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vFypPFq/1000008381.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/fzWtMJ4r/1000008382.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/380xFtx/1000008388.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Tn5V4n1/1000008389.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/mVRQmXv1/1000008390.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Power Surge

Do you happen to have a pic of how you mounted your rear brake hose brackets to the chassis? The manual is not very helpful for 3 link cars for where to mount them.

---

I didn't take any measurements Sal, I just put a wheel on it to make sure the brake hose cleared the back side of the dish and marked the bracket location a little higher knowing the 90 hose fitting would be pointing downward.
Then duplicated the other side.

Attachment 223625

I wish I could get pictures to attach correctly...

"Man... it drives my OCD crazy that the self tapping screws FFR uses to secure the panels aren't centered in most of the panels."

Agreed - and not just not-centered, but also off the normal centered alignment. Saw this on both the Coupe an the 289, I mean it doesn't take much to simply center the screw hole, maybe a simple jig? Maybe they should use the jig they provide?

No work on the car this week, but got a bunch of stuff delivered. I bought a cheap $30 280 piece pegboard kit, and got my bench much better organized. I bought some 8-32 and 3/8-16 arbors for my Doyle Rivnut tool, since it doesn't come with those sizes. I also bought the Rigid brake line tool that everyone recommends.

My last backordered part came in - the window frames. I plan to modify these because I don't like the shape of the window openings. But that will come at a later date.

My Digital Guard Dawg kit showed up. I got the PBS-II since I plan to run door poppers.

Got another batch of powder coating back as well. I'll show those parts as they get installed.


https://i.ibb.co/wNtgb79Z/1000008435.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Ld3VmRt4/1000008431.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/G3d6fK4Q/1000008432.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/9mx9sXjh/1000008434.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6J8CLz5C/1000008433.jpg

I got my carbon canister made as well. I used the kit supplied brake reservoir. I tapped a 1/2" barb in the bottom (I'm using the Breeze big vent kit with 1/2" hose). Then I drilled holes in the cap. Made some scotchbrite barriers for both ends to capture the carbon, and then filled it with activated carbon from Petco. I'm also using the kit supplied fuel filter mount, which has been powder coated. Should work nicely I hope.

And lastly, my order from Forte's arrived. Tremec TKX (2.87/.68) 5 speed. Tremec bellhousing, new midplate, Ford clutch cable (that oddly is made in Taiwan now), and RAM clutch setup. Also got the Forte's forward shifter kit, which Mike was awesome enough to pre-install for me on the transmission.


https://i.ibb.co/27rrHKJv/1000008436.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/B2tnDF3B/1000008437.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/Zpq7LzjX/1000008438.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/svd0yJHn/1000008439.jpg

That's a nice assortment of parts to arrive. I am guessing you will have them all installed tomorrow or the next day?

What clutch it this?

I recently bought a new Ram clutch but did not install it yet.

Dave
Gen III #17

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PNWTim

That's a nice assortment of parts to arrive. I am guessing you will have them all installed tomorrow or the next day?

---

LOL I wish, Tim. This won't be a "quick" build. I am just trying to consistently work on the car when I can.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Tabor

What clutch it this?

I recently bought a new Ram clutch but did not install it yet.

Dave
Gen III #17

---

Hey Dave. I went with the RAM 98794T clutch. Seemed like a good balance of pedal feel and power rating (550hp).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Power Surge

Hey Dave. I went with the RAM 98794T clutch. Seemed like a good balance of pedal feel and power rating (550hp).

---

Cool - that looks like the one to get. I got one from the next line down - I'll see how it goes.

Thanks,
Dave
Gen III #17

I got a little more done on the car this weekend.

I finished clearancing the radiator panel for my relocated control arms.

I started installing the Rivnuts for the removable footbox top panels. The Doyle Rivnut tool is sooo nice.

I got my home made carbon canister mounted in the frame. I used the FFR supplied fuel filter bracket (powder coated of course) as the perfect mount for it.

I got the freshly powder coated pan hard bar installed back in the car, and tightened up all the rear suspension bolts.

I got the Snakebite Motors drop trunk installed. I did forget to bring the floor bottom to the powder coaters with the rest of the parts. But after thinking about it, you're not going to see the trunk box floor from under the car. Plus, I plan to line the inside with trunk felt, so it doesn't matter that it's not black.

Sharp eyes may notice I am using black rivets on any black panels. :cool:

https://i.ibb.co/YB87zmfw/1000008476.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/B2bNpnSz/1000008474.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/dw01Z5sG/1000008471.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/pjXp446Y/1000008475.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/35228mb1/1000008472.jpg

I also got my pedal box installed. Since I am doing a vintage build (basically replicating CSX2299 best I can), I wanted to have original looking AC pedals. I made some pedal adapters by making some pedal standoffs and welding them to Wilwood pedals, cut down to match the pedal arms. I then powder coated the adapters, as well as the Wilwood pedal arms themselves. I am pretty pleased with how it came out.


https://i.ibb.co/9kjtjhw7/1000008467.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/S4KWCP8z/1000008453.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/YFk67CdY/1000008455.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/gFmzryYr/1000008468.jpg

Not a lot of physical work this week... my brother (who lived with me) passed away this past week. It's been hard, but I know it will just take time. I've been spending time researching and ordering parts for the Daytona to keep myself occupied.

I decided I am going to go with a Blueprint 347. I like the idea of it being ready to run, with a warranty, and it will make close to the power I wanted.

I've been talking to Jim Inglese about the Weber induction system for the car. He's going to build me a period correct Cobra Weber setup, with FIA water/fuel neck (with right side outset for the FFR).

Parts to build the brake line system have been coming in this week.

That's about it for right now.

Sal,

My condolences on your loss.

Dave

Sorry to hear this Sal. Please accept my condolences.

I'm sorry for your loss. Thoughts and prayers to you and your family.

My condolences.

So sorry for your loss Sal

Sorry for your loss.

I am sorry for your loss, I've been there too. There is comfort in keeping busy.

Sorry for your loss Sal … it’s been a minute since I’ve checked up on your build so I’m just reading this now … my sincere condolences

Thank you guys, the condolences are welcomed. It's been hard...since he lived with me. I have been trying to tie up all his affairs for the past two weeks. And still more to do.

As for the Daytona, I have not physically worked on it in the past few weeks, but still making progress. The custom Weber setup from Jim Inglese is in production. I have ordered the Blueprint 347 and a few related parts (oil pan, starter, flywheel, etc) from Fortes. And the parts I ordered to do my brake lines have come in. So will be getting back to the car shortly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Power Surge

Thank you guys, the condolences are welcomed. It's been hard...since he lived with me. I have been trying to tie up all his affairs for the past two weeks. And still more to do.

As for the Daytona, I have not physically worked on it in the past few weeks, but still making progress. The custom Weber setup from Jim Inglese is in production. I have ordered the Blueprint 347 and a few related parts (oil pan, starter, flywheel, etc) from Fortes. And the parts I ordered to do my brake lines have come in. So will be getting back to the car shortly.

---

Maybe this is a dumb question. I’m also getting the Blueprint 347 for my coupe build. Does it not come with the oil pan, starter, and flywheel?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Afdent11

Maybe this is a dumb question. I’m also getting the Blueprint 347 for my coupe build. Does it not come with the oil pan, starter, and flywheel?

---

The base 347 long block (which I what I ordered) does come with an oil pan. But I am doing a better shaped pan for performance and fit in the chassis (Champ rear sump pan).

They don't come with a starter or flywheel, but Blueprint does offer those things through their site for an extra charge. Or just source them yourself elsewhere.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Afdent11

Maybe this is a dumb question. I’m also getting the Blueprint 347 for my coupe build. Does it not come with the oil pan, starter, and flywheel?

---

If you buy the package from BluePrint specifically for the Factory Five, it will be turn-key. My BluePrint 347 and TKO came fully assembled and ready to put in the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1524422081

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Papa

If you buy the package from BluePrint specifically for the Factory Five, it will be turn-key. My BluePrint 347 and TKO came fully assembled and ready to put in the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1524422081

---

Okay awesome. Thank you!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Power Surge

Not a lot of physical work this week... my brother (who lived with me) passed away this past week. It's been hard, but I know it will just take time.

---

Just now catching up on your thread, Sal, and wanted to extend my condolences to you and your family. A difficult time for you as you grieve this significant loss. My heart goes out to you all.

I haven't done much physical work on the Daytona lately (have other vehicles that needed my attention), but I've ordered a lot of stuff for it, lol.

The main thing... my engine came. Blueprint 347. I plan to detail this motor as period correct as I can.

I got the Champ 8qt road race pan for it. Got a period looking fuel pump with integrated filter (anyone see a reason this might not fit?). Picked up a Flowkooler aluminum water pump, with driver's side outlet. I have started collecting the parts to have a vintage V belt drive setup (West Coast Cougar is a great source for these parts). I went with a modern mini starter, since it probably won't be seen anyway.

Alternator wise...I really wanted to run a correct 289 Hi po alternator, but I can't. I plan to run an electric AC compressor, and that requires 60 amps at idle just on it's own. Plus electric fan and other vehicle electronics. I need an alternator capable of over 100 amps at idle. So I went with the most "stock" looking super power alternator. This one is 280amps, with 180amps capable at idle. I am going to do my best to make it look like a vintage Hi Po alternator.


I should be getting back to working on the car soon.


https://i.ibb.co/Z1HWvNH9/1000009002.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/pjnZZ342/1000009008.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/B8FpCty/1000009007.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/VYVBYvw1/1000009005.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/S4yzR0Rs/1000009006.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/pv2ZMCNJ/1000009003.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/DD8FpRwN/1000009004.jpg

One other thing... not a part for the car. My brother and my girlfriend went halves on my birthday present. An Exoto die cast of CSX2299, in the configuration that I am replicating. My brother passed away two weeks later, so this is the last thing he ever gave me. I've put it in a nice case, and it's on my pegboard in the garage with the car now. Serving as inspiration for the build, as well as a reminder of him.


https://i.ibb.co/mrX2CB4v/1000008596.jpg