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Great job so far with your project. I was looking at the brake/clutch reservoirs supplied with the 30th Anniversary kit and might look at buying a smaller triple from a 3rd party. Much like Erik, my engine bay is going to be crammed and I want to keep it clean like my last build.
I'm sure glad I had an automatic riveter.
Attachment 216463
Mike, was her nickname Rosey for the duration of the build? :)
I was going the same direction, but just couldn’t pull the trigger. For me I wanted to keep the engine bay clutter free, so the two supplied fit in the location nicely. They also came with the supplied mounting bracket. But I might consider switching later if something really grabs me!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Howard
What’s funny is I thought I was done dropping tons of cash when I bought my kit, BUT ALL I DO IS SPEND MORE MONEY EVERY DAY! I just bought a battery and custom tray for that. So I’m trying to use the stuff I paid for, although it’s not going well!
It was!Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
My grandmother was a Rosie the Riveter, sort of. She ran a bridge crane at Lima Locomotive building tanks during the war. I always thought that was pretty cool.
Your eyes are a lot better than mine. How do you keep the alum so clean. Mine are a mess but will be covered by heat shield and carpet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
Great work.
Ralph
Today I spent all day on the radiator, decided to upgrade my fan and went with the Breeze Shroud with flexalite fan. I’m in NC and the summer can be very hot at times. So decided to just start with the shroud. Everything went together great, I was planning on my expansion tak mounting behind the radiator, but now I’ve used that room with the shroud. So I’m probably going to upgrade to the Canton 2 quart since I’m running a 427, I think the stock tank is too small. I’ll need to find a spot to mount it.
Also put in the fuse panel and loosely ran some wire. I’m starting to be discouraged because I have not received any word on my tires and wheels from FFR, it’s been almost 6 weeks. I know I’ll receive them, I just would like to get this thing rolling for several reasons.
I added the piece tunnel piece and put my three pass through holes in that location which I believe the manual said to use the firewall. I think this location will work out better, it allows more space between the firewall and dash. Hopefully it helps keep everything tidy in the dash.
I got my battery tray and battery mounted today. Odyssey PC925 battery which I’ve heard some good and bad things about, but I liked the small footprint. I made the tray detachable, but I think I might be able to wiggle it out anyway after the motor goes in. But the tray was powder coated to match the frame. It turned out nice, I’m happy with the look as long as it is up to the job.
I spoke to Factory Five again today about my 30th Anniversary wheels and tires. Talked with Dan and got the same answer I’ve gotten the last month every week, which is approximately 3 weeks. We are going on two months since they started delivering these kits and it could be over three months before we get wheels.
FFR has been good to deal with so far but I am loosing patience over the lack of wheels. This is obviously one of there top of the line kits that cost north of 40 grand, with the wheels being one of the center pieces of the kit. When talking with them they just say we are upset also. They said a problem with the vendor was the original issue, and now they have been apparently stuck on a ship. I know I’ll eventually get the wheels, but FFR has not even sent an email to customers/purchasers about the lack of wheels. It might have been nice to hear from them on the issue without having to call all the time.
Every kit I've built had some component(s) that took longer than anything else. The 20th Anniversary Roadster was Wilwood. 6+ months for brakes. My Coupe was headlight covers. They had to switch suppliers due to quality issues. Also took multiple months. Etc, etc. In all cases, were supplier issues vs. something internal they had more control over. Less then a month after receipt, my 30th Anniversary Roadster kit only has three backordered parts and the several discrepancies I found have been resolved. Probably no consolation, but that's my best experience to date. I've asked a couple times about the status of my backordered parts and get answers. But I don't expect them to contact me. When they arrive they will be shipped. Doesn't sound like that's your expectation. But they are a relatively small company and everyone there is very busy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
I don't know the story about the 30th wheels except they're delayed. Unless you're a really fast builder, it shouldn't hold you up. I'm in line to receive them as well, and I'm confident that when they arrive they're ship them promptly. My experience is they do place priority on shipping backordered parts. Good thing you weren't around a few years ago when their previous wheel supplier's factory burned down along with all of Factory Five's tooling. As I recall, they were almost 2 years without wheels. The good news is with a new vendor and new tooling we have the higher quality wheels they're selling now. Hang in there.
To add to Paul's post, try building during Covid. My POL list was three (3) pages long.
I did find they seem to grease the squeaky wheels first. By that I mean two things. I was at the point that I needed the gas tank and I heard they got a batch in so I called. They told me they did have tanks but they were already committed to new kits. Smart from a business point of view, one less item to have to pay shipping one. I was nice but firm that I had been waiting and needed my tank and they shipped it right out to me. So even though they get a load of parts doesn't always mean you're at the top of the list, unless you call and (nicely) squeak.
Probably doesn't apply to special order 30th anniversary wheels but it did to my gas tank.
Don't think that I'm not sympathetic because I am but when I built one of the very first Mk4s for a customer we waited over 7 months for FFR Halibrands. I had the car built and running, ready to go drive but no rolling stock. Owner really wanted to take it for a spin and I was just about to take the wheels off of mine so that he could do so when I got a FedEx notification!
Jeff
I respect everything you said in this post, I currently own my own business and have been in customer service prior to that. I always believe communication is paramount to transparency and keeping your customers happy. That being said, it takes all of 20 minutes to craft an email to buyers explaining the delay. With lack of information we are left up to guessing or trying to contact them for information. When you call you speak to different people that tell you different things which leads to confusion and on the customers side.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
So as I’m generally happy with my experience so far, I do believe FFR could do better with communication. Some will disagree with this, but this is my expectation. I don’t expect to drop 40 + thousand and then just wait for how ever many months for a shipping email. I had done enough research to understand these issues do arise. My expectation is a little higher than yours which is fine, we all have different backgrounds and experiences.
As for my build, I’m ready to make this a roller, it’s much easier for me to take delivery of my engine and manage space if the car is a roller. Can I work around it, sure I can. I would also prefer to install my engine in a roller vs Jack stands. Can I install the engine on jack stands, yes but prefer not to. Anyway I’ve had a blast so far and still think highly of FFR, this is more constructive criticism. From everything I read most just say sit back and wait you’ll eventually get your parts. It sounds like this is the expectation so I probably need to conform to the standard.
So back to the car, I will start working on electrical and my dash layout next. I’ve got the carbon dash and plan to cut everything out and clear coat more of a gloss finish. I’m also going to install push timed turn signals in the button strip on the carbon dash.
Can anyone tell me if the headlight pull out two position switch is two position for high and low beams? My kit came with another push switch it states is the high beam switch?
Nope. Sorry not going to let that one by. I said call and get updates. Not just wait. Don't wear them out, but it's reasonable to ask what's happening. What I do and I said as much. I'm not new at this either. Back to the build. As a general comment, I get that you want a roller and would make things easier. The downside to that is if you have wheels then you have tires and the aging clock is running on those at that point. Most recommend not getting tires until as late in the build as possible. If that would really help your build, what about looking for some salvage Mustang wheels and tires? Some builders use Guniwheels. But that's an expensive option,,,Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
I wasn’t quoting you, this is basically what FFR told me and like I said I respect your opinion (you obviously have dealt with FFR longer than me). I don’t totally agree with it but that’s fine agreeing and respecting are two different things. Again, I feel like for the money people are spending on these kits the communication could be better. I respect the company as a whole and so far don’t have a ton of negatives. I knew the moment I posted about this issue, I would receive some contrary opinions. And I think it’s good for a company to hear different opinions and what different customers think. That’s healthy if they look at the feedback in a constructive manner.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
What’s funny about the wheels and tires is FFR recommended I do that. So yes that is an option, but does require some work on my end, I plan on having a go part by 8 months from start of build. So I’m not totally worried about the tires. What I am a little worried about is having a motor sit around for 6 months in the southern humidity. Tires are somewhat cheap compared to a crate motor. I’m leaning towards just installing the motor on jack stands if the wheels turn out to be a lot longer. I’m hoping for an email telling me the wheels are on the way.
My overall build is progressing at a spirited pace. I’m probably putting in 30 hours per week which includes prep, utube, forum and building. I’m actually trying to look into paint and body work, most everyone has a year or more waiting list. If anyone has a good shop around Mooresville I’m all ears. I know about Whitby, but he won’t return emails or phone calls.
First detent is parking lights, second detent is headlights. Use the on/on push switch to toggle between high beams and low beams. The headlight switch can be configured to either leave the parking lights on when the headlights are activated or turn them off...builder's choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
Jeff
Thanks Jeff, makes sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
I went with the standard layout for the dash, no problem on the nice clean cuts on the holes. I’m going to have a few more buttons below with two turn signal buttons. Once I get everything cut, I will use a 2k clear coat and do some buffing for a nice finish. Ordered chrome silver high beam and horn buttons to keep everything uniform. Also waiting for the steering wheel cutout bezel.
I love working with the dash gives you real sense of the character of the car to be. It looks like everyone is just mounting straight on the curve of the dash support. The curve is fairly accurate. If anyone has heard of anything different please let me know. The glovebox is next.
Depends on your mounting method. If you are going with visible mounting screws to the hoop, every car is a little different. I would assume the MKV has improved a bit in this regard, but best practice is to fit the body then scribe where your dash mounting bolts need to be and if additional brackets are needed. If not, it could still work out but you risk the chance of your mounting bolts getting hidden by the body which will make access difficult if needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
Thanks for the advice cv, I was leaning that direction anyway. I’m getting ready to clear the dash now. I’m going to leave it unmounted until the body goes so I don’t back myself into a corner. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
So I finished cutting the lower portion of the dash for IG, Horn, TS, HB and Headlights. Started mocking the glovebox up. I didn’t like the bare metal pieces showing when you open the box, to me it seems unfinished (looks green, but is a bronze). So back to my garage powder coating which has now paid for itself 10 times over. Finished all the small parts and backing plate.
I hit the dash with a 2K Gloss clear, cleaned it well and the sealed up my make shift booth and did 4 coats 8 min apart. Seems to have turned out great, this 2K leaves a lot of Orange peel so I’ll wet sand and buff in a few days.
I’ve ordered a new Horn and HB switch in silver to match my turn signals. So everything should be uniform.
Worked on the dash to get the final layout. Still need to polish another hour to get some more depth out of the clear, but I’m happy so far with the progress. I will say the glove box is a pain in the butt to get adjusted. The dash had four layers of clear, wet sanded and polished. The two Silver Horn and HB switches are on order. I’m holding off on final mounting until the body goes back on. I might use a couple pieces of Velcro as temporary holding spots while I work on wiring, I’ll remove them and use screws for final mounting.
I think I remember you indicating you were going to use some other turn signal function. I see you made no provision for the stalk in your mockup. Will you use the old-style toggle switch, or something more exotic?
Ralph
They are actually in the row below, the last two silver are time canceling turn signals. They have an adjustable 0 to 60 second timed switch once hit.Quote:
Originally Posted by rponfick
Very nice. Have you powered them up? I ordered the silver buttons as well with blue light. I just saw a thread where the gauges light up red! That would be bad…
The turn signals are white when lit, the horn and HB will be blue when lit. Ya I’m not to fond of red! I haven’t wired anything yet. The turn signals have to be wired with the timer. I’m kind of laying out my harness at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
That’s looking really good.
I used some hook and loop to temporarily mount the dash. I wanted to see what I’m working with for future wring and space. Since this is my first build I don’t really have any perspective. I have a few questions for mark 4 or 5 builds.
1. I know people have custom brackets made for support, any ideas for the MV?
2. These small aluminum pieces came with the dash, I assume they add some rigidity by mounting the wings or corners to the frame. You can see them in my last picture. When you fold the wing past the door hinges it does provide a lot of rigidity to the carbon dash. Does this look correct for you more experienced builders?
3. I’m assuming when wiring the dash most of you just temporarily mount the dash when working on the wiring?
Here is an approach that I am trying out with the MV & CF Dash.….I identified 4 vertical areas behind the dash which are free of gauges. I drilled and tapped holes on the bottom of the hoop. (it was actually easier to drill a small pilot hole from the top clear through the bottom of the hoop, then comeback with the correct size hole from the bottom, and then tap it. I then ran a segment of threaded rod into those holes which extends down just shy of the flap on the base of the dash. Attached a “coupling nut” to both ends of the threaded rod, one is to lock it to the hoop (could have been a normal nut there), the other is to accept a black flat head socket screw which passes through the bottom of the flap on the back of the dash. I think it will work nicely but we will see, still working the kinks out.Attachment 216959Attachment 216958 (the other bar in the second pic is securing the grab handle to the frame in a similar “coupling nut” manner.)
Very interesting and cool approach, I’m excited to see it completed. Thanks for the idea, I’m going to start brainstorming.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Called FFR today after pulling my hair out trying to locate missing foot box panels (outer right and left panel). The 30th Anniversary came with anodized and regular panels. All of the anodized were just wrapped and loaded in the chassis for delivery. So one of the panels actually had the same number as the smaller front foot box panel. So identification was confusing to say the least. I went to seal up my foot box and noticed these two panels were missing. (Would not have figured this out during my inventory)
I emailed FFR and was told the first few kits were delivered without these panels because the panel guy thought these were anodized so they were left out. So I guess it took me finally figuring it out myself and notifying them before they would take action. I’m still wondering if they knew they were not included why they didn’t just send them?
For you Anniversary kit owners:
Since I was on the phone with them I was also told there was another delay in the wheels. I asked did the ship sink, I’ve been told they were in the ocean (freighter) for the last month. He told me he wasn’t sure they had actually shipped from the manufacturer now. So I’m left super confused and frustrated. He said they expect them in late August now. I asked if that was a hard date, he did know. Late August will be almost three months with no wheels and no hard date for delivery.
I’ll repeat what I’ve said in prior post, I’m a big fan of FFR. But i still feel they just don’t relay information, it’s almost like the Sienfeld episode “No soup for you”. I asked if FFR was unable to deliver the wheels after three months did they have a back up plan for fulfilling the 60 anniversary edition orders. He stated no they didn’t, he told me the wheels on their 30th car were painted bronze because they couldn’t even get a set from the manufacturer. This was different from the first person I talked to a month ago, he said they had to get there set air freighted because they were having such a hard time getting the wheels.
I’m sharing this information for other 30th kit owners. I will keep my fingers crossed reference the wheels, but so far it’s been numerous stories and not a lot of reliable information. I’ll keep updating my thread on the wheels.
I had the same 2 panels missing in mine along with 2 more, the "Cockpit Trans Side, Right & Left." It is confusing that the part numbers on the inventory sheets didn't match what is in the build manual which makes it difficult. They sent all 4 panels out right way, only problem, they weren't anodized black, not a huge deal for the cockpit trans panels but would've liked the footbox outside walls to be. I'm going to just powder coat them black myself, I think I have the same Eastwood powder coat system you have. Still getting the hang of it.
I don't have the wheels but I'm not in a rush for them either. I bought 4 wheels when I was at the FFR Open House in June, they had an amazing deal on some older 17" rims so I bought them and put some cheaper tires on them to use as a roller until the permanent ones arrive.
I actually inquired about the same issue of the panels not being anodized and was told they don’t show so they were never supposed to be anodized. That doesn’t make since either, but I guess it’s just another confusing pill I’ll swallow. At least they shipped yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Homer
I guess I’m left with no options, but to try and find some donor wheels since it could be another month (not holding my breath) or multiple months before I see wheels. Dave from FFR did say he would look at some options for me and call me back. I’ll keep you updated.
Spent the day doing the last round of polish on the dash, and added the chrome buttons (Easter egg on the buttons). I also cut my top panel on the tunnel, the bottom half will be removable for access. The seam is hidden under the dash, I think this will work out well. The top half has my loom pass through straight into the firewall piece I added (did not come with the kit). I will also have a small Bluetooth stereo 3” x 3” receiver flush mounted in this area. The Wildwood ebrake will be to the left of the shifter.
Busy few days with passenger side Kilmat install, the stuff is fairly easy to work with and forgiving. Make sure to leave your foot boxes open so you don’t have to contort your body 80 ways. My father in law did most of the Kilmat. Mocked up the stereo I’ll never hear, but I like having one anyway. Marine Kicker head unit fits nice along with a small 100 Watt pocket amp and two 6.5” speakers in the rear. Not a lot of room to work with for the speakers so measure well and look at the hole required for your speakers.
The Wildwood electric breaking system is completely wired and installed. I redid the middle tunnel since I don’t need the ebrake handle, looking to do some cup holders also. But here are some pictures, motor is on a truck headed my way.
I installed the carpet at the same time as heat/sound mat in those footwell panels, as they appear difficult to get to once panels riveted in place. Especially those outer footbox walls. Just something to think about.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
Ralph
Big day for me, the stage 2 427 arrived in one piece and in great shape. Got the wood removed from the frame and have it ready to be lifted out of the cradle. Waiting for some donor wheels to arrive before it goes in the car. I’m guessing Monday or Tuesday for the install date. Blueprint was easy to work with and James was good at getting me the information I needed. This is the second motor I’ve used from them.
I’m not sure if any Mark V owners can add some pointers on the trans mount and any spacers that were needed for DL angle? Any other tips from Mark V owners on install would be appreciated?
Thanks for the advise on the carpet, I’ll definitely put those carpet pieces in before I seal it for good. I was actually missing a few carpet pieces I’m waiting for.Quote:
Originally Posted by rponfick
My engine arrives tomorrow. I should be installing it in the next few days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddrig
MK5 + G4x Coyote + TKX. I needed 2 small spacers on each side to get a drive line within acceptable angles. It was not at all difficult to measure or adjust. The “bubble level” app on an IPhone was surprisingly easier to use than my Kline digital angle level.