Thanks, Tim. They do sell an OEM style mount that will work with the glued on metal mount that the coupe kit mirror uses.
Printable View
Mine came with an OEM style (8") windshield-mounted mirror.
That must be something new. I noticed the blue car on their website has a rear view mirror in it so it must be a recent change.
I just wanted to update this now that I have finished installing the T9. The screen works great and was pretty straight forward to install however the Amazon 1080P AHD camera I bought is not compatible with streaming DVR's so I had to use the camera that came with the T9 which is a bit larger but works fine. Scott
Congrats on retirement and starting a new built. I built my MK4 when I retired. Have fun
I received nearly all of my POL items from FFR today, so just a handful of remaining items to go. I also received my Wilwood EPB kit and it looks like a really nice upgrade. I'll be borrowing a press from my brother-in-law this weekend and will knock out the wheel stud swap on the rear hubs once I get some time to get going.
Following the build; i p\u my kit first week of Aug. Interested what was the roll bar bracket for the mirror. Im thinking the same Wolfbox 900pro? Thanks
Here is the mirror mount I'll be using:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1752275523
For a rollbar mount, you might look at what's available for UTVs to see if anything might meet your needs. FFR does have a rollbar mounted mirror available as well.
https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/165...le-mirror-kit/
Today I was more focused on my MK4 trying to resolve a long-time nagging issue that I believe I may have solved! On the Coupe, I removed the rear glass and stashed that away for safe keeping and then pulled the nose off the chassis. I removed the aluminum panels that were under the nose, the dash, and the loose cockpit panels that would come out with the body on the car. I now have a clear chassis on the front-end to start installing the steering rack and front suspension.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1752276007
This is one that has been used for the AutoVox mirror.
https://a.co/d/evAo3EB
Jim details it out in his thread starting at 153.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ge4#post576859
A few more POL parts came from FFR yesterday, so we are nearly complete on delivered parts. Still missing a spacer for the Coyote engine mount and the fuel tank components.
Has anyone tried the Aeromotive fuel pump hanger setup yet?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...tang/year/1994
That looks like the same unit Forte supplied me with for the coyote engine pkg I got from him; workd great. I used to fittings (90) from earls I believe
Today I got to start working on the front suspension! I installed the FFR power steering rack, which looks to be very good quality. It installed a lot easier than I remember the MK4 install being.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1752700159
FFR is also including a new support bracket for the steering rack seen here. I was sent the same bracket for my MK4 last year and installed it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1752700159
I then installed the lower control arms. I use a red paint pen to mark bolts that have been torqued, and place a small white dot next to grease zerks that I've hit with the grease gun. Finally, I assembled the Koni coil-over shocks and installed them and that was it for the day.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1752700159
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1752700159
This is the first time for me with the new process FFR is using for the mounting hardware. I like that everything is bagged and labeled, but wish it was done by assembly rather than just bolt size. I know that would likely add cost, but would make it much easier for the builder. I'm going to have to find some way to organize the box of hardware to help me locate what I need in a way that doesn't include spreading all the little bags out on the floor until I find what I'm looking for.
Papa congratulations on the coupe build...I just took advantage of the 4th of july anniversary sale and received $3000 off my kit ... sadly my completion date is not till September 20 .. how far in advance did you book Stewart shipping ? BTW the front suspension looks killer !!
Thanks! It feels great to be building again. I called Stewart right away and they basically take it from there. About two weeks from your completion date they will call to take payment. Once they schedule your pick up at FFR, they will give you an estimated delivery window. The driver will call you a the day before delivery and give you a time window.
September will be here before you know it!
Dave
Thanks for the info Dave I can.t wait to get started on my build .... I went ahead and ordered my Forgestar wheels this morning i'm going for a more modern custom look and seeing how they take about 6 weeks to make they should arrive by the time my kit does Thanks again
Mark
I decided to go with the Howe upper ball joints, so they are on the way. Once they get here, I can continue the front suspension work. In the meantime, I assembled my Wilwood rotors. This isn't anything that hasn't already been shown or discussed but followed the directions for installing the hats to the letter! A dab of red thread locker on each bolt and 155 inch pounds on the torque value.
Next it was on to safety wiring. I had a bit of a re-learning curve but quickly overcame that and the process went pretty fast after that. I thought I'd share my step-by-step method here for others.
Step one: Cut a piece of wire about 12-14" in length and straighten it out as best as you can.
Step 2: Feed the wire from the inside through the bolt that will be on the left of the wired pair.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1752779553
Step 3: Bend the wire on the outside and pull that wire toward the second bolt in the pair. Wrap the inside wire around the bolt and pull that wire parallel with the first wire.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1752779553
Step 4: Clamp your twisting pliers on the two wires about even with the hole in the second bolt and twist the wires with four or five pulls.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1752779553
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1752779553
Step 5: Pull one of the wires through the bolt and toward the inside of the assembly. Wrap the second wire around the bolt and pull it parallel with the first wire.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1752779553
Step 6: Clamp the two wires about a 1/4" from the bolt and twist them together.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1752779572
Step 7: Clip the wire and roll it up against the bolt.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1752779572
That's it! Now you will have a good-looking safety wire on your brakes. Repeat five more times per rotor.
When you are done, it will look like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1752779572
Congrats on getting your MK4 issue sorted.
What's been working well for me is to combine like size fasteners, washers, and nuts into a single, larger sized labeled baggie. So, if the upper radiator mount calls for 5/16 screws, nuts, and washers, I grab the 5/16 baggie and quickly find what I need. The larger suspension hardware is a bit bulky for this. But after that all the remaining fasteners fit into their individual baggies (McMaster baggies, of course) inside a 12"x12" box, like this. The only time investment was the initial sorting by size.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1752783868
Papa Dave,
I can't wait to watch you build your next dream machine.
Keep Wrenching, Keep Riveting & Please Keep Posting Your Progress!
You are motivating me to come out of retirement so that I can afford to build one too.
Steve
Good Morning sir .... i have a quick question I see that you are planning on doing a coyote engine for you build .... summit has 2 versions available now one with dual throttle bodies and one with single throttle body which one are going to purchase ... the difference being hp the single is rated at 460 hp and the dual at 480 for simplicity reasons which one are you going with in the Gen 4 ?
I'm undecided still, but leaning either toward the FF Gen4 package or with Fortes Gen4 or 5.2 XS options.
Either way should make plenty of hp for such a light car .... Thanks for responding !!
Not much progress today, but I pulled the power steering rack support bracket back off and cleaned the rattle-can paint off of it and powder coated it. Not a great picture, but it looks much better.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1752968117
My fuel tank and parts arrived, and I pulled the items out of the box and checked off the inventory -- just three parts remaining on my POL. When I actually pulled the tank out of the box, I see a pretty significant bend on one corner that I'm concerned with.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1752968117
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1752968117
I'll be calling FFR next week to see what they want me to do and if they will send a replacement tank. Fuel is not something I feel comfortable rolling the dice on!
I also went ahead and ordered the Aeromotive fuel pump and hanger assembly, the ford fill tube seal, and ford gas cap.
This was some months ago, but I believe still accurate. When the Gen 4 Coyote crate motors were released, the dual throttle body version was described as having a locked tune. That's not good because our builds won't fit the stock airbox which is one of the reasons a custom tune is required.. Even if the tune wasn't locked, not sure how that could be plumbed to fit under the hood of our builds. The single throttle body version is tunable and what is being used for our builds. It has basically the same specs as the Gen 3 crate.
That bent corner is normal. The last couple I've received have been the same. Including for my Mk5. Not damage if that's what you're thinking. Apparently required clearance for the Mustang.
Thats great information Edwardb for both Papa and myself ..... single throttle body it is then !! Thanks for the heads up !!
Beautiful COBRA cobra by the way Papa!!
Thanks to Paul's confirmation, I'm good to go with the provided fuel tank. I will have the pump and hanger on Tuesday but went ahead and installed the fuel level sender after verifying the proper ohm reading of 16-158 (empty to full). I have a tool that I bought during my last build that really helps with installation and removal of the locking rings.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1753046117
Today I was able to complete the front suspension. I used the Howe Racing upper ball joints and Energy Suspension dust boots. Everything went together really well. I thought I was going to have to pull the shock off from the top mount as the upper control arm bar didn't want to go in at first. I finally realized I just need to rotate the spring so that the bar could slide into the frame tabs. The hubs went on like butter with no need to persuade them at all. I did wipe a little 3-in-1 oil on the spindle and inside the hub first, but not sure that was necessary. I still have the jumbo torque wrench from the first build, so I was able to get the 225lbs. of torque on the hub nuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1753229008
And here are both sides finished, torqued, greased, and ready to move on to the brakes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1753229012
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1753229010
My Aeromotive fuel pump and hanger arrived today, so I'll be installing that into the tank tomorrow. The heat in Missouri was oppressive today with the heat index at 108 degrees. My shop is a very comfortable 75 degrees thanks to the Mr. Cool mini-split and the 8' fan!
Is the torque wrench their 50 to 300 pounder?