I.E. 427 Horn
https://vimeo.com/1103759951?fl=pl&fe=sh
Printable View
I.E. 427 Horn
https://vimeo.com/1103759951?fl=pl&fe=sh
Engine Cooling Fan Override
https://vimeo.com/1103760408?fl=pl&fe=sh
Dash "In Reverse" Indicator
https://vimeo.com/1105116256?fl=pl&fe=sh
You've been pretty busy! Thanks for sharing
You as well Tim. Looking Good!Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
I dig your gauges!
You're making good progress. Even have a bunch of body work done. Do you plan on painting it yourself too?
I couldn't get the videos to work (says they are private), but pics look great!
Man, you have been getting it done since we last talked.
Brent
Really??? Ugh... I'll see if I can figure that out? I swear... I have had more problems posting on this forum than all others that I have been on combined.
Yes Jim... well, kinda. My brother will.
He paints for a living. Him and I will paint it. He worked for several years at a restoration shop here north of Detroit that did a lot of restoration for General Motors. He's painted about a dozen cars in their Heritage Collection. And also one of the trains at the Detroit Zoo.
Thanks Brent!
I'm really trying to get it show worthy for the Detroit Autorama next March.
So Mike, in your introduction, I saw that you listed Dart manufacturing. No need for that aftermarket block unless you are planning something special for the powerplant. May I be nosey and ask? Also what are your plans for the build once done? Autocross, track, Cruising? All are good and go into the decisions in the build. You are moving right along. I'm jealous.
Sorry Tbull.. I deleted my long winded post. The more I read it, the more snarky it sounded. That was not my intention.
My goal with this build is pretty simple, to have a Fast Street Car. A 60's Supercar. A race car on the street. Something Old but New. Primitive but Modern. Unrefined but Classy. Lol...Maybe not so simple?
I'm really very fortunate to have friends that work in cool places help me out on this build. I was able to put together this 363 the way I wanted for a little less than what a Blueprint 347 cost.
Thanks
Wow! You're cruising right along, Mike. I really like your dash setup. Clean, not crowded. I want to do something similar. Curious which switch panel you used, and did they also supply the labels as well? I'm leaning toward a switch panel on my build as well. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Chris.
I used the New Vintage panel. It's a really nice piece.
Yes, it comes with a series of Standard Labels, and 12 different Dip-Switch adjustable lighting color options. Pretty Cool.
They are very proud of this panel, especially when you customize the labels.
But like most projects... What's another drop of water when you are drowning!
I called them and cried a little about the price, and they gave me a -10% discount code to use when I ordered through their website.
If it was hard to see, I went the custom label route.
This is how I configured mine
Attachment 217060
https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommer...switch-panels/
Gauges are Done. Love how they sweep.
I also added a Speedhut Zero Dimmer to dim the dash lights. https://speedhut.com/gauge-accessori...ed-lit-gauges/
I tapped it into my switch panel as well, so it will dim both the gauges and the panel.
Its a pretty cool little piece. It allows you to adjust the brightness for both daytime and nighttime driving.
Attachment 217087
https://vimeo.com/1106432437?fl=pl&fe=sh
Nice! My mind is the same as yours on the Zero Dimmer. Saw it on MSummers build and ordered a few days ago. Nice bonus is how it returns the gauges to zero. Not a huge deal, but it was kind of goofy on my MK4 to see them "hang" at last known position when ignition was shut off.
Agreed ! It's the simple things, right?
The brightness is not exactly the same as the the switch panel when you dim, but it's pretty close.
All of my aluminum panels are now back from the powder coater.
Decided to go body color with most of the panels. The foot boxes and all underside floorboard panels will all be body color. The dashboard, rear hatch side and back panels, and splash shields are satan black.
We are going to paint the car Blu Avio. A Ferrari color.
Attachment 217139Attachment 217140Attachment 217141
Looks nice!
Assembled the dash this weekend. I wanted to stick with the uncluttered, racecar vibe, so instead of adding a second set of round A.C. vents to the face of the dash, I bought another set of defrost vents and mounted them on the back side of the dash, pointing downward into the footbox areas. On the passenger side, I mounted a bracket to the lower inside lip of the dash, and on the driver's side, I mounted the vent bracket on the top side of the steering shaft mount bolts. I will use 2 inch hoses for those as well as the windshield defrost vents. Not sure if needed, but I also added a little Kilsmat to the bottom side of the dash to keep it solid, and hopefully prevent any additional vibrations.
Attachment 217192Attachment 217193Attachment 217194
Good idea on the ducts to the footboxes. I'm thinking of doing the same for the same reasons you mention above. Your dash is becoming my primary inspiration for how I'd like to set up mine. One difference will be I bought the matching clock from Speedhut, so will need to fit it in somewhere. Great work!
Thanks Chris. Appreciate it.
Funny thing about the clock. I lengthened clock and gauge feed leads to reach the center/right side of the dash, and tapped the gauge feed into the Zero Dimmer to add a clock. Never puller the trigger on one though.
Now that the dash is powder coated, IDK... It still may happen, but we'll see.
Do you have a part number, or link to which one you bought? When I was looking at them, I wasn't sure which one it was.
I also added a little detailed touch to where I installed the Speedo, Tach and Fuel Configuration Buttons, as well as the Gauge Lights Zero Dimmer Button, and the Interior Lighting Fade Dimmer Button.
A friend owns a Laser Engraving business, https://www.triplesengraving.com/ so I had him "Label" Laser Etch, each of the config buttons. The font matches the gauges font.
Came out nice. And think it looks way better than a sticker label.
It's the little things.
Attachment 217369Attachment 217368
Those etched labels are sweet! I might have to reach out to your friend when I get to that point.
Here's the link to the Speed hut clock that matches the F5 vintage gauges. The hands are white and illuminate just like the other gauges. If you decide to go for it, reach out and Rachel Henry will work with you.
https://speedhut.com/gauge-applicati...nk=0m67415i7qv
That looks really nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8secDuster
Love the color of interior powder coated panels.
Thanks Mark.
It's Prismatic Powders, Light Blue Metallic.
It's going to be a shame to sand it and spray Lizard Skin all over it.
I dig the way the interior looks all blue.
Attachment 217475
It feels like forever, but I think I'm finally in the home stretch with wiring.
I’ve made some extra work for myself by adding several "modern-ish" feature items.
I installed 3/4" LED Dome Lights and Foot Box lights that self-Dim when the doors are opened and closed.
Pivoting Driver and Passenger LED Map Lights that run through the Headlight Switch.
LED Reverse Lights with a small 5/16” LED “R” dash light that luminates when in reverse, and a matching 5/16” Low Oil Pressure LED dash light.
Remote Door Poppers with individual interior driver and passenger pop buttons mounted on the bottom flange of the dash.
High mount 3rd Brake Light removed from a 2020 Acura. (we’ll see how it works / fits down the road a little further)
And finally, I added Phone Chargers mounted inside of the driver and passenger Door Pockets with a single LED to slightly luminate the door pocket at night.
Here is the Door Popper module bracket I made. I mounted it on the square tube to the left of the master cylinders. I also made Linkage, instead of using the provided thin cable, for the Door Poppers out of small rod I had laying around.
A cool little feature the poppers have is it will flash the parking lights when you pop either of the doors.
Attachment 218355
Attachment 218356
Looking around for Park Brake hanger ideas instead of using wire ties, I found these 3 – Piece, old school set from 98 – 02 Camaro’s / Trans Am’s that ended up working out nicely. They are 2 different lengths and hold the cables away from the 3-Link suspensions components perfectly.
Attachment 218357
Attachment 218358
Attachment 218359
I have the Breeze Big Bore Vent kit, so I bought an Evil Energy in-line fuel filter, and converted it into a Charcoal Canister to pair with the vent. It matches the Aeromotive Fuel Filter perfectly.
Attachment 218360
Took advantage of the long weekend and trimmed the body area under the gas tank by 6” then took a long block with 80 grit and straightened out the cuts. I then taped off the entire car and sprayed the Lizard Skin SD on the inside of the body. Stuff goes everywhere.
Then sprayed the CI on the inside of the roof and on the inside of the rocker / exhaust areas. I know this isn't typically what has been done or used on other builds, but I found a gentleman on FB-MP (an 1/8 mile from the house) that had 6 gallons of the SD and 2 gallons of the CI with the gun for $500.
I bought it all and sprayed everything with Lizard Skin.
Attachment 218361
Attachment 218362
Received my Headers from Gas-N. I stepped up to a 1-3/4" with a 3" SBF Square Port Flange. I also had them remove the ugly 3 bold collector flange and add their Band Clamp collector mount. Man these look nice!
Attachment 218352
Changed up the A.C. control plate a little. No disrespect to FFR, just wanted to personalize it. Had a friend make a new vinyl cover.
Attachment 218353
We also started the body work on the hood. Man.. what a mess up near the front wheel and radiator tunnel openings!
Going to take a lot of love to straighten those out.
Lastly.. the engine builder called. It should be ready to dyno in a couple of weeks!
Can't wait to get this giant piece of the puzzle in.
Wow. Lots going on in your build, Mike. Some really cool features. Would you mind sharing the details on the interior lighting?
A few questions for you:
- Trimming the area below the gas tank, is that for aesthetics, or is there a functional reason?
- The Lizard Skin CI, how much was left after the roof and rocker panels? Do you think two gallons is enough for the whole underbody? Are you undercoating the nose as well?
- Is that the brushed stainless finish on the Gas-N headers?
Thanks Chris
I used these Keing LED Lights. I fab-ed an aluminum plate and mounted it to the top of the roll bar. I have 3 up there and 1 in each dash corner cap pointing down into the foot box.
https://www.amazon.com/KEING-Waterpr...70&sr=8-6&th=1
Then I found this Dimmer Module. It Bluetooth's through your phone to adjust your dim time. Doors open, lights come on. Key on, they slowly fade off. Just like new cars.
https://www.amazon.com/Dome-Light-Di...=QILlbit18U6R6
The end result makes me smile every time. Watching the interior light fade like a new car. I think this was the best 50 bucks spent on this car.
https://vimeo.com/1081570374?fl=pl&fe=sh
The Map lights are from SuperBright LED. They are mounted on the same panel as the dome lights. I tied them into the Headlight switch so you can turn them on while driving if necessary.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/led-...iABEgKnU_D_BwE
I read a few post where builders trimmed that area under the gas tank to make it easier to remove if you needed to. My cut line from the factory was Not Straight, so I wanted to make it nicer anyways.
I have sprayed all of the foot box panels and the body now and I think there is a little over a gallon left. I believe Lizard Skin states 2 gallons will cover 25sq-ft?
Yes. Brushed Finish on the headers.
Sweet! Nice touch.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8secDuster
I'm going with Gas-N headers and side exhaust. I've been leaning toward the brushed stainless, but couldn't get a decent picture from Georgie. Thanks for the picture. I like the brushed stainless finish.
That dome light module is pretty slick! What are you using for the door open/closed sensors?
I bought a set of Door Pin Switches like these off of Amazon to try. They're activated by a ground.Quote:
Originally Posted by bishes
I may try a set of Magnetic Switches if these Pin Switches don't work / fit.
Once the body is on permanently, and the doors are fitted, I'll tackle installing them.
https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Flan...s%2C103&sr=8-2
Nice work Mike, it is really coming together! What door poppers did you go with?
Thanks Brent.
They are Amazon specials with 50lb solenoids. It was kind of a last minute decision.
https://www.amazon.com/LLNSEAUTO-Sol...12&sr=8-6&th=1
Nice, I am looking for some.
Dyno day finally arrived at Apex Competition Engines!
After getting the Sniper 4150 set up and finding a couple of crossed plug wires while putting some heat into it (oops), we made a few short pulls to 4500 just to make sure everything looked good before stretching her legs.
Four pulls later to 6500 and only tweaking timing—we ended up with 535 HP and 472 ft-lb of torque.
Gotta admit, this fuel-injected hydraulic cam stuff is way easier to dial in than our old 528 big-block drag race motor. That one made 915 HP / 800 TQ. Between carb jetting, valve lash, timing, and carb spacers, it felt like we worn the poor thing out on the dyno before we ever made the first pass!
The Engine
363" Dart SHP Block
Dart Pro 1 Heads - CNC Ported 210cc
Victor Jr Intake - Port Matched
SCAT Rotating Assy
Mahle Pistons - 11 to 1
Sniper 4150 - Gold
Custom Ground Hyd-Roller by Scotty Brown of Competition Components in Okemos Mi.
Very pleased with the results from this little 363.
Pretty stout little package that should be a ball of fun to drive!
Attachment 220636
Crappie video
https://vimeo.com/1130084334?fl=pl&fe=sh
I think that'll get 'er done
Maybe you won't be doing wheelies like in your profile pic, but that'll definitely get her moving!
Wahoo! Congrats, Mike. She sounds awesome, even through the walls of the dyno room! I'm sure it's a great satisfaction to now know the engine build came together as you hoped. Great work!
Thanks Chris.
Yeah, very please with how it's gone so far. Its been a long time since I have had an engine on the pump... always fun with a bit of scary tossed in. There's always that fine line between power and reliability. This one's not too crazy, so hopefully it lives a long healthy life.
Blessed to have good friends (1 is a cylinder head guy and 1 is an engine builder) that offer to help with a project like this!