The Baroness: MkIV Roadster Build Thread

It's been a while since posting an update to the build. Truth is it's been hot. Really hot.
And I've been doing some remodeling (re-did stairs, laundry room, etc)
And getting ready for archery season (built a new bow, tuning and sighting in)
And going to the lake....

Anyways. I was able to get some work done on changing the wheel color and getting tires mounted.

Turned out pretty good I think although there was some growing pains.

Will be working to get the motor off of the run stand in preparation for stuffing into the body.

https://youtu.be/w9pV3whvW0M

What has to happen before the motor can get installed into the chassis?
Well it has to come off the run stand.

Gotta start it up one last time first though. It's gonna be a bit before it will be ready to start up again.

https://youtu.be/p2c-PWGfpjk

First time installing a dual clutch for me.

Went together easy enough, just a lot of measuring

https://youtu.be/ZQR4AX6Via0

I really like the red pinstripes on the wheels. Nice touch.

Is the bottom flange on the bellhousing going to hang below the frame rails? I know most people trim the Quicktime units for clearance.

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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

Is the bottom flange on the bellhousing going to hang below the frame rails? I know most people trim the Quicktime units for clearance.

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I'm not sure.
I'll see what unforeseen issues I run into when I drop in the motor in the next week or so. I'm hoping I don't have to trim anything off.

If I have to trim it I don't think I can take too much off. There's only about 1.5" until I'm at the flywheel.

Wheels and tires go on in preparation for the engine to drop in.

For some reason I was thinking this would help with the engine install.

https://youtu.be/m-Ak5L_Hfus

I know adding those stripes to the wheels took a lot of time but they really set it off. Very nice.

I like the little details like that, to me these things set a great build apart from an average build.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

I know adding those stripes to the wheels took a lot of time but they really set it off. Very nice.

I like the little details like that, to me these things set a great build apart from an average build.

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Thank you sir. Kind words.
So far I like the stripes.

This is gonna the last vid for a bit. Going bow hunting next week and I need to shift my focus until I get back.

Motor goes in though and looks nice in the engine bay.

It does look like I may have to trim the bottom of the bell housing (Just the tab that has 2 bolts).
Doesn't look like it would be terribly difficult or take any substantial strength / protection from the bell housing.

https://youtu.be/w14Al_-Vb8k

It's been a while. Life happens but I think I've finally caught up to get back on the car...

https://youtu.be/yv2LAImKRQE

Hey,

FYI, it looks like you have the trunk gas strut kit. Before you get too far along there it mounts right through that cubby wall. You have a few different options including using a prop rod but if you want to put the struts on that came with the kit you will need to make pass through holes. I used shorter struts and mounted mine to the floor on my first build after making this very mistake.

Love the wheels. When done this car is going to be a looker.

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Originally Posted by Blitzboy54

Hey,

FYI, it looks like you have the trunk gas strut kit. Before you get too far along there it mounts right through that cubby wall. You have a few different options including using a prop rod but if you want to put the struts on that came with the kit you will need to make pass through holes. I used shorter struts and mounted mine to the floor on my first build after making this very mistake.

Love the wheels. When done this car is going to be a looker.

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Thanks for that comment and great tip. Didn't even cross my mind about the struts. Guess I haven't looked that far ahead. Lol.

Install of the replacement shaft seal, driveshaft and safety hoop. A little difficulty filming this one. Got a really short tripod / camera stand on the way.

Thanks for the feedback, suggestions, tips. I really appreciate it. It's what makes the community so great. Lots of good info.

https://youtu.be/2ffP9JKtUEY

Slowly but surely... Getting a little scattered in the build right now. Work a little here till I get to a point where I need or waiting on something so then I'll work on something else.

Radiator, shroud, battery tray and an update from Factory Five for the steering rack go in.

https://youtu.be/ZZp7cBf67uM

Great build write up - big thanks, Paul! Very informative video content without a bunch of "fluff" like in some other build threads.
Quick questions:
1. Since I'm planning to PC my aluminum panels (which takes time) and don't want to just sit and do nothing, what else I can start to bolt on without aluminum panels installation dependency? Thinking of the rear suspension...
2. Why everyone here insists on having the aluminum panels pre-drilled and installed before the PC? I may be missing something, but it doesn't make much sense to me doing this all prior to PC when the pre-drilled holes will anyways become a bit smaller because of the PC layer on top of bare metal.

Drilling panels after PC will likely cause it to chip and look unsightly. I'm guessing that's why most will PC after drilling. You may need to open the PC'd holes up a bit w/ a drill bit but overall safer than trying to drill through the PC w/o chipping it.

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Originally Posted by Pmieras

Slowly but surely... Getting a little scattered in the build right now. Work a little here till I get to a point where I need or waiting on something so then I'll work on something else.

Radiator, shroud, battery tray and an update from Factory Five for the steering rack go in.

https://youtu.be/ZZp7cBf67uM

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Pretty much did exactly this today. It’s pretty satisfying to see things come together. I used the breeze lower radiator mount kit, but honestly a couple of slotted brackets, some tubing and a metal bar will work just fine. Nice video…

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Originally Posted by lonestar

...Why everyone here insists on having the aluminum panels pre-drilled and installed before the PC? I may be missing something, but it doesn't make much sense to me doing this all prior to PC when the pre-drilled holes will anyways become a bit smaller because of the PC layer on top of bare metal.

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Don't know if "insists" is the right word. Suggests is maybe a better one? Do it however you want. But reasons in my experience are: (1) Not unusual to have to tweak bends for the best fit. (2) A little more rare, but sometimes have to trim pieces a bit for the best fit. While PC might stand up to that, good chance of damaging while sorting everything out. (3) Common to mark pieces where the frame locations are, lay out the hole patterns, etc. so you know where to drill. Easy on bare aluminum, not so much on PC'd aluminum. (4) Just overall handling is reduced if they're ready to install after PC. Again, for less possible damage. Yes, the holes might be slightly undersized after PC. Takes very little time for each piece to run the holes through with the proper size drill bit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lonestar

Great build write up - big thanks, Paul! Very informative video content without a bunch of "fluff" like in some other build threads.
Quick questions:
1. Since I'm planning to PC my aluminum panels (which takes time) and don't want to just sit and do nothing, what else I can start to bolt on without aluminum panels installation dependency? Thinking of the rear suspension...
2. Why everyone here insists on having the aluminum panels pre-drilled and installed before the PC? I may be missing something, but it doesn't make much sense to me doing this all prior to PC when the pre-drilled holes will anyways become a bit smaller because of the PC layer on top of bare metal.

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I'm at the point where I'm kind of jumping around. Been thumbing through the build manual multiple times to try to avoid undoing something major because I did it at the wrong time. I'm sure I'm not going to be able to predict everything. Just trying to be smart about it.

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Originally Posted by danmas

Pretty much did exactly this today. It’s pretty satisfying to see things come together. I used the breeze lower radiator mount kit, but honestly a couple of slotted brackets, some tubing and a metal bar will work just fine. Nice video…

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Agreed. I did the breeze bracket for the ease of it. Cost would have been negligible me doing it myself.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by egchewy79

Drilling panels after PC will likely cause it to chip and look unsightly. I'm guessing that's why most will PC after drilling. You may need to open the PC'd holes up a bit w/ a drill bit but overall safer than trying to drill through the PC w/o chipping it.

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I can see that. You might be able to minimize chipping by using a sharp bit all the time, go slow and be careful?

My frame is powder coated and haven't had much issues but then again, those holes get covered with a panel.

I noticed during my cerakoting process, due to sand blasting the parts, I've been warping the large pieces of aluminum (I have a video that showed that).

Wasn't expecting that, but in my case seemed by ok. On the prices that I sand blast on both sides, the panel flattens back out. On the single sided pieces, I bent them back into shape over my knee.

I'm not to familiar with PC so I can't speak for sure if there is any type of sand blasting involved as well.
The buy that did my wheels sand blasted to remove the original finish prior to coating them.

Slight error on my part, but not a huge deal. Had to take the fan shroud back off to mount the fan. Realized it as soon as I laid the fan on the shroud. You live and you learn.

https://youtu.be/nB6hdQmlU2k

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pmieras

I noticed during my cerakoting process, due to sand blasting the parts, I've been warping the large pieces of aluminum (I have a video that showed that).

Wasn't expecting that, but in my case seemed by ok. On the prices that I sand blast on both sides, the panel flattens back out. On the single sided pieces, I bent them back into shape over my knee.

I'm not to familiar with PC so I can't speak for sure if there is any type of sand blasting involved as well.
The buy that did my wheels sand blasted to remove the original finish prior to coating them.

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I hope you're not actually sand blasting and are plastic bead blasting instead. Sand is too harsh and not good for anything outside of industrial structural steel pieces. And ships. And bridges.

Blasting a thin piece of metal can have the effect of shrinking the surface causing it to bow or warp. There's actually a science where the technique is used to form metal into a specific and complex shape. But don't look at me, I'm not nearly smart enough to do that.



Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

I hope you're not actually sand blasting and are plastic bead blasting instead. Sand is too harsh and not good for anything outside of industrial structural steel pieces. And ships. And bridges.

Blasting a thin piece of metal can have the effect of shrinking the surface causing it to bow or warp. There's actually a science where the technique is used to form metal into a specific and complex shape. But don't look at me, I'm not nearly smart enough to do that.



Mike

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Thanks for the heads up...

If I remember right I'm using a 70g Aluminum oxide from Harbor Freight. The surface roughness it leaves is needed for good adhesion with the Cerakote.
On the large panels I am getting some warping / bowing but so far it's been minimal and I'm able to straighten the piece back out.
Nothing significant enough to have caused an issue so far (knock on wood).

I've been able to minimize the warping by staying farther away from the work surface. Still warps a little, but the affect is reduce.

The Cerakote sticks really well once fully cured and is quite durable. I've hit it with slips of the screw drive and such and it so far takes it without blemish.

ICT brackets go on to put the alternator and power steering pump in their permanent home.

https://youtu.be/s8Imif9uy-Q

Nice looking work, I really dig the wheels as it's basically what I have planned for my build.
I wondered what the red stripe would look like on the inboard lip as opposed to the outer.
I like the outer stripe like you've done.
are you going to use the knockoffs or leave them off ?
I'm planning on leaving the spinners polished on my upcoming build.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TrackDay17

Nice looking work, I really dig the wheels as it's basically what I have planned for my build.
I wondered what the red stripe would look like on the inboard lip as opposed to the outer.
I like the outer stripe like you've done.
are you going to use the knockoffs or leave them off ?
I'm planning on leaving the spinners polished on my upcoming build.

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Thanks for the kind words.
I'm happy with the stripe, took a few tries to get it right in my case.
I'm gonna use the knock offs. Haven't decided if I'm going to do flat or gloss black, or bronze. Still kicking that idea around in the old melon.

Rough in the power steering lines and drop in the belt.

https://youtu.be/a_7ehsaX3fM

Install of the drivers side header while working out the cooling lines and fuel lines

https://youtu.be/1pDkoMkof4Q

Love the videos! Just a suggestion. Header studs instead of bolts make the job a lot easier, especially on the driver’s side. They also save your header bolt threads from getting possibly stripped out.

I'll second the header studs and raise you Remflex gaskets.

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Originally Posted by cv2065

Love the videos! Just a suggestion. Header studs instead of bolts make the job a lot easier, especially on the driver’s side. They also save your header bolt threads from getting possibly stripped out.

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That's a great idea. I'm definitely going to look into that and the Remflex gaskets.

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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

I'll second the header studs and raise you Remflex gaskets.

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I love the suggestions I'm getting from the forum. I just researched the studs and Remflex gaskets and pulled the trigger.
I'm going to probably continue to use the gaskets the kit came with and use them during the build / mock up and change them out towards the end since I'm sure the headers are going to go on and off a couple times.

Working on getting the heater core installed and run into a problem I need to sort out.

I think I have a solution I'm going to do by modifying the heater core inlet / outlet. That will come out in a later video.

https://youtu.be/8ZPDSI_Jm5s

You might be able to cut the copper tubes and fit these AN adapters. https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ts/AT165010ERL

From there use a 90 degree AN hose fitting and maybe some hose like this or something similar. https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/650010ERL

A heater in San Diego? That's interesting:)

Same problem I had as well as others on here that installed the heater and using a 351 Windsor block. Throw the template in the trash and make your own. Do pay attention to where the wiper motor goes and the heater needs to be as low on the firewall as possible. I cut the tubes off and made a bead in the end using an Earls Performance EZ tubing beader that I got from Summit Racing. I think it was this one Part Number: EAR-010ERL. For a 5/8 tube.

Attachment 214936Attachment 214935Attachment 214937Attachment 214938Attachment 214939

Heater template:Attachment 214940Attachment 214941

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Originally Posted by flyboyjy

Same problem I had as well as others on here that installed the heater and using a 351 Windsor block. Throw the template in the trash and make your own. Do pay attention to where the wiper motor goes and the heater needs to be as low on the firewall as possible. I cut the tubes off and made a bead in the end using an Earls Performance EZ tubing beader that I got from Summit Racing. I think it was this one Part Number: EAR-010ERL. For a 5/8 tube.

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Interesting. That might work.

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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

A heater in San Diego? That's interesting:)

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Not in San Diego but San Tan Valley, AZ. Definitely won't need it in the summer time. ;)
But some drives during the fall or early spring would be nice to have heat.