The complete kit comes with a handful of straight 3/16" preflared lines with fittings attached. They are generally long enough to run everything you need, but will have to leave awkward service loops here and there to take up the slack. I didn't want loops, so I cut off the flares, bent my lines, reflared, etc. It's not hard to do with this tool. Very easy!Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSilver
Attachment 194021
I ended up needing to buy one 72" piece to get from the footbox to the right rear. I couldn't make mine fit at the lengths provided.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
The kit comes with multiple pieces of stock brake lines. The kind you can buy at any parts store. They can be joined with unions for the long run, e.g. front to back. The service loop(s) some use is often to take up excess length and avoid cutting and flaring. Also has some value to not make the connection(s) too tight so they can removed if necessary for service. Also some think they're necessary for vibration purposes. Often seen in older vehicles. But not needed IMO for these builds with overall one-piece chassis.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSilver
There is a lot of discussion on this forum about cutting and flaring brake lines, what tools work best, what materials work best, etc. Surprised you haven't seen it. Maybe since you just joined? I personally make up custom lines and don't use service loops. I've done rigid stainless and plain steel. A lot of guys recommend NiCopp nickel/copper brake lines.
Just in case you want to go top of the line with stainless steel tube and AN fittings this will help.
That's what I bought for one run, man it was malleable, didn't need a bender or anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Good day in the shop today. Got my Pro-M fuel pump hanger and GSS340GS pump installed, new Energy Suspension boots installed on the UCAs (the correct ones this time), and rerouted my rear brake line so it's inside the footbox, and not in front of it, at the suggestion of several of you...thanks for the eyeballs on it!
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Spent a few minutes today getting the fuse panel mounted. If you already have your steering shaft installed, it's a lot easier if you remove the upper shaft. Don't forget to catch your Belleville washers when you remove it. Slide hammer is your friend.
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Glued and riveted the cockpit bits yesterday. Very cold in KC today (3 degrees today, and -14 tonight, actual temps), and my mini-split is keeping up! I cut the bottom tabs off the rear cockpit wall, so I could align it vertically better with the seat belt slots. I have since fabbed up some right-angle .040" aluminum to cover the gaps. It's been glued and riveted, as well. It has some ancillary benefit...that part of the floor is kind of floating, so it added some rigidity, although I don't suppose there will be any weight or pressure on that part of the floor. Also siliconed all the interior where panels meet. I'm sure that's overkill, after gluing them to the frame, but belt and suspenders, right? Anyway, none of it will be seen with sound and heat mat, and carpet.
Also wired in the 'trailer harness' for the LED tailights. Easy peasie. I put it behind the dash, just downstream from the rear harness plugs that connect to the main harness.
Go CHIEFS!!! Stay warm, people!
Greg
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I wondered about those gaps until reading your text. Other than that (which you addressed) the back panel looks right - you do want that cross frame member showing above the bottom of the seat belt cutouts.
I don’t think the silicone in the gaps is overkill. Some use aluminum tape from the local big box HVAC aisle to tape the seams. Either way will keep the water from coming in - and keep it from draining out of the cockpit - when it rains :rolleyes:
It's been awhile since I last updated my build thread...life has gotten in the way. It's been a nice break, actually...I feel rejuvenated and I'm ready to get back at it! Over the past week, I've laid out my Speedhut gauges with life-size printouts. It's an atypical layout, but I think it makes sense for me. Please critique it for both ergonomic and wiring issues. The turn signal I plan to use is the kit-supplied throw switch. While I know most who use it have it on the left side of the steering column, it makes more sense to me to have it on the right side, where I can reach it with my gear-shifting hand. I sat in the car and simulated, say, and left turn from a red light. As I go through the intersection, I would likely shift into 2nd at some point, but would still be turning left, so my left hand would be busy holding the steering wheel. It made more sense to me to have my right hand free to 'cancel' the turn signal. I dunno...makes sense to me, but please critique it. Maybe I'll end up with the updated version of Russ's stalk-mounted solution.
For the rest of my day, I spent time installing all my Breeze bits. Mark Reynolds is the man! His solutions are just spot on. I've been a customer for 20 years, and his solutions never cease to impress me. For this build, I've used the standard bits for the radiator...the fan shroud, the piano hinge, and the lower adjustable crossmember. I used my handy-dandy cell phone to dial in 51 degrees. Didn't have that option 20 years ago! However, as you can see in one of the pics, to achieve 51 degrees, the top front of the radiator housing hits the frame...substantially, I may add. The piano hinge is under some stress to achieve that 51 degrees, because of the frame interference. Maybe that's not unexpected. Regardless, the radiator is solid as a rock. I didn't tap my hinge to frame fasteners; I felt better with through-bolts and nylock nuts. Yes, my third from left bolt is too high; my drill bit walked on me, and I'm pretty irritated by it, but I assume I won't see it when I have my body on and Breeze's upper shroud installed.
Anyway, it was 70 degrees in Kansas City today; what a great treat for February 24th. 77 degrees tomorrow! Not sure what's next on the build, but I'm sure having fun! Maybe I'll cut the dash holes for the gauges and switches!
Greg
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For what it's worth Greg, I have never measured a radiator angle. What I do instead is match it to the nose aluminum side panels which I temporally position by keying the cutouts in them to the holes for the bumper/QJ bolts. Just another means to an end.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
Jeff
That's a good approach, Jeff. Thanks. I'll check that out in the AM. It will be interesting to see how far off I am. I realize 51 degrees is just a suggestion, and gets me close to the angle I'll need for the nose aluminum. I'm not fixated on hitting 51 degrees, but rather, getting the radiator and aluminum bits to line up properly with the frame and body.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Had some quality time in the shop today. 75 degrees in Kansas City. Windy, but we'll take it, for March 2nd! I spent some time in Microsoft Visio, laying out my dash bits. I'm going to use the kit-supplied turn signal toggle, and the hi-beam toggle. Also using the kit-supplied headlight switch and ignition switch. I bought several switches and indicators off of Amazon, and they appear to be good quality. I don't want to use the kit-supplied dash mat; it feels too 'cushy' if that's a good description. I want something with less foam backing on it. The wife and I are going to hit the fabric stores in the coming weeks to find something that feels right. Anyway, check out my dash layout for anything that's a showstopper. I realize it's an unorthodox layout, but I wanted something different, and it makes sense to me, ergonomically.
Also got my Toyo Proxes R888R tires today. 255/35-18 front and 315/30-18 rear. Going to order the FFR 18" Halibrands this week. I'm running out of 'big purchase' items...time to save my pennies for the Coyote/TKX package from Forte or FFR!
Greg
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Oh happy day! Got my wheels today! They look fantastic! I'm not going to use the faux-spinners (so if anyone wants them, let me know), and I'll need to find some black lug nuts. I bought some, but they are too short...looks like they need to be about 1/4" longer. If anyone knows the spec, I'd appreciate seeing it.
Anyway, great looking wheels!
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Tinkered with setting up a rough alignment today so I can gokart a bit without chewing up tires, when the time comes.
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Tossing an idea out there for you to plug the hole in the center, you could have a center cap 3D printed like this for something Cobra but still unique.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
https://www.imagecoast.com/images/Mi...linsert005.jpg
For sure like that idea! Now, if only I could find someone to make it for me...Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
I can help you with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
Let's do it! I think I measured something like 68mm OD and 62mm ID for the center caps, with something like 9mm depth. But, I'm sure you've got the dimensions Mike. Let's chat...send me a PM?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
I'm thinking a black center cap.
Greg
Covered the dash today in a Hobby Lobby vinyl that has a thinner back than the kit-provided pad. I like it. I fabricated some blind mounts for the dash, and the screws for it show through the vinyl a bit, but I think when the body is on the car, most of it will be hidden. To make my hidden mounts, I made 90 degree pieces of .040" aluminum, and connected the angle iron bits to the dash with flathead screws. The other end of the angled aluminum connects to the bottom of the dash hoop with self-tappers...the ones that came with the kit to hold the aluminum panels on the frame. To connect the angle aluminum to the dash, I dimpled the dash with an old 302 Ford pushrod (literally) and a hammer. I then drilled my holes for the mounts through the dimples. The screwheads stuck out a bit, so I ground then down. What you see in these pics it the dimpled area around the ground-down screw head. Oh well...it looks better than the kit-supplied screws, and again, I think when the body is on, I won't see them as much.
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Spent a little time in the shop today working on the heat and sound insulation. It's kind of fun...easy to cut with scissors and adheres to the aluminum panels very well. It's comical to hear the difference when you knock your knuckles on a panel with the mat on it versus one that doesn't. I'm sure this will really help make the car feel more solid when on the road.
Anyway...having fun in the shop! Spring is coming, and the grass is getting green. This weekend is chilly and wet, but it'll help to green things up! Happy weekend, everyone!!
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Got my FFR 18s and my Toyo Proxes R888R mounted up and bolted on today. First time out of the garage! 255s front, 315s rear. At full lock, the front tires definitely rub the F-panel, but I'm not worried about it. Could use rack limiters, but if I'm turning in a parking lot and hear it rub, I'll back off a hair.
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Decided to remove the 3/4" square tube above the drop trunk today. Turned out pretty good!
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Greg, I'm new here and actually live in Western Shawnee, coincidentally my name is Greg also !
I'm here to learn and get ideas because I plan to build my own in the next year or two.
If you ever need a hand in the shop I'd be happy to lend a hand since I'm retired.
Semi retired definitely amateur motorcycle road racer and track day guy.
Since Heartland Park has closed I lost my nearby playground.
Hi, Greg! I saw your introductory post a few weeks ago, and responded to it, letting you know we should sync up. I'll be wrenching in the shop this weekend if you want to stop by. I'll send you my cell# in a private message.Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackDay17
Thanks, if I have time I'll definitely stop by if I can ! I've got dinner plans Saturday night but I think that's it....... Unless my wife tells me otherwise !Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
Worked on Thermo-Tec installation today. I've been through three 36"x60" rolls, and still have the driver's footbox, driver's side of trans tunnel, and all of the trunk to do. Will likely take two more rolls.
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I had random scraps of Thermo-Tec left from the three rolls I used for the interior, so I cobbled them together to do my drop trunk from Mountain Metalworks. Turned out pretty good!
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Greg are you doing the rest of the truck area as well?
Yes, sir! I need to order two more rolls of Thermo-Tec from my friends at Amazon. I'm going to wait to finish the trunk area once I have the engine in and have ensured all my wiring and fuel delivery is working properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by kirby
Started some of my dash wiring. Maybe I'm a masochist, but I think wiring is a lot of fun!
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After much research, I've decided to ditch the Gen3 Coyote route, and go with a 427 Stroker, with Holley 2 EFI and Hyperspark. I'm going to build it myself. I figure I'll save some money, and likely will have it completed before Blueprint could get me the same engine (they told me if I ordered now, it would be September at the earliest). I'll be leaning on some of our perennial forum vendors for parts (looking at you, Mike Forte), and Summit will be on speed dial as well.
I've already started receiving parts. This is getting exciting. Next purchase is the 427 Boss short block. I like the combo kit from Summit that comes with cam, lifters, dogbones and spider, bolts, gaskets, timing cover, timing set, etc. But I'll probably call Mike to spec out a simliar package from him.
I've sent back to FFR my Coyote headers, driveshaft and engine mounts. They're sending me SBF replacement parts. All on my dime for shipping of course. I still have all my other Coyote bits left in the For Sale section if anyone is interested.
Happy weekend, everyone!
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Very nice! I love those pushrod engines in Cobras. I love the Coyote also, just in Mustangs lol
I built my short block myself using a Scat rotating assembly, I would highly recommend Scat as they were first class to deal with. It wasn't any real challenge but did require quite a bit of research and a good machine shop that understood SBFs. Not sure I would do it again, I would probably just buy a short block from someone like Forte.
Thanks, Mike. I, too, love the pushrod SBF. Built many of them over the years.
Oh joy of joys!!! The 427 BOSS short block has arrived!
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Very exciting. Looks like you will not lack for power!!
I love the sound of the SBF over the Coyote myself, 500 hp should be easy for those components.
I've got to come over and see your car and progress, I've been busy around here since we had the hailstorm.
Got my truck, wife's car and took out my roof on the house and shop unfortunately.
Excited for you. Nothing like a nice clean beautiful block to work from!
Man that's a nice short block and those heads are going to work well with it. Before you invest in a Sniper you should take a good look at stepping up to either the Edlebrock Pro Flow or put together a port injection system yourself with either a FAST Sportsman or Holley Terminator X ECU. For not a huge premium in cost you would be getting such a better system and with total control over the tuning. Sniper tuning is very limited and relies on it's own auto-tuning.
The Sniper is a low cost entry level EFI system and has a lot of issues. You get what you pay for. There are complete forums dedicated to Sniper issues as well as numerous threads on this forum. I love EFI and was an early adopter but I hate how the Sniper gives EFI a bad name. And I hate to see you with such a nice engine but not being able to enjoy it because of issues with the Sniper. FWIW
Hit me up when you're ready to come over, and sorry about the damage. I drove by Mill Creek HS a few days after the tornado. Lots of trees and roofs took the hit.Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackDay17