Thanks Jeff. At the moment I have the engine side covers off and with the hood popped up it should be fairly easy to do.
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Thanks Jeff. At the moment I have the engine side covers off and with the hood popped up it should be fairly easy to do.
Did not like the plain chrome valve covers so I powdered coated them the same color as the firewall. I really like the way it turned out.
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I had some 3/4 tube laying around so I created a stand off mount for heater/defroster. I am bringing all the wiring up through the trans tunnel and this gives a place to bring all that wiring up behind the heater.
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I'm stealing this idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff33Ford
Finished up a lot of the dash and engine wiring today. Funny thing to make a note of. I put the aluminum heat shielding on the starter wires. Well, if you get that to close to the to the starter connector you will have a short. I always make sure I have not real current draw when I hook up the battery and this time I did and that was what it was. Never had that happen before and I have used the stuff several times.
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Finally got the radiator installed. Ran the engine up to temp for the first time. Then checked if the trans will go in gear. I must have did something right when I rebuilt the trans. Was a pretty good feeling to get to this step. Get a nice day may see if it will go down the driveway.
https://youtu.be/UO8llLcUUr8
Congratulations! Such a good feeling!
Doesn't it feel good when you know it works after a repair. Congrats!
You may need to relocate that coil so that the wire goes no where near that Sniper. The RFI will play havoc with the Snhiper ECU. have fun
Yup, I found this out the hard way when I installed the sniper & Hyper Spark system on my 70 challenger. I bundled the coil harness with the harness coming from the Sniper CD Box together to make things "look pretty" in the engine bay.....BIG MISTAKE, everything ran like crap.
Re-did the wiring separating the coil harness from everything else it ran awesome and has been flawless for the past 4 years.
Great system but definitely finiky on wiring.
Jim
Worked on more wiring. Nothing exciting but built the body buck for a distraction this weekend.
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That's looks great. I wish I had room for one.
Heater all plumbed up and tested. Everything worked great. Working back half now. Getting rear exit exhaust all lined up and then put on rear panels. Getting close to starting body work.
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Where did you get your air filter from? Having a clearance issue with mine in my coupe. Looks like that may be a solution. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff33Ford
Scott
Cheapy from Amazon. Figured I would get a good filter to replace the paper one for it when I start driving the car. I powder coated it and cleaned the powder off of the ridges before baking it so it matches the valve covers. All my measurements say it will clear the hood no problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
Amazon Filter
Finally a weekend to do a little work on the Hot Rod. Used a loan a tool from AutoZone to pressure test the coolant system. Got it to hold 15lbs over night so I think I am good.
Built a battery box with inspiration from JimLev here
Used a cheap brake from HF and powder coated when done.
I really like the way it turned out and my son will 3D print a nice cover for it. We were thinking with the Ford script on it. But got time to think about it.
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Nice job Jeff.
No reason to mount the battery in the trunk and take up what little space there is in there when there is all that vacant space below the trunk.
Have not got a lot of time lately to spend on car. But put a few things together and took it down the road for a test. Son got first drive on the road then I took it down the road. So far so good. Over 90 degree day and ran cool. At least no major things popped up.
https://youtu.be/ppxPyfajRCM
Nice job! Sounds good.
Nice to see it moving under it’s own power.
Did I detect a little fishtailing on your return trip?
Great Job, awesome feeling to get to Go-Kart stage.
Just to set your expectations, I'm not sure about your plans but if your build includes the engine side panels and hood, it will run cool until you install those and then the engine bay turns into an oven, all good though if you take measures to dissipate the heat.
Jim
Had to check if the posi was working! That's my story and I am sticking to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
Thanks Jim and I am using the hood and side panels. Looking at several ideas to vent the side panels. I really like your look. Buick pops in the mind right away.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
I’m using these 24” long louvered vents. I keep the engine fan running 100% of the time at 1/2 speed to push out the heat. Then when the radiator temp sensor gets hot enough the fan switches to full speed.
See post 523, 524.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build/page14
Thanks Jeff. Mine are exactly that, buick vent ports. I like the looks of them and with me only running a little 302 they do a sufficient job venting the heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff33Ford
Jim
Have not made an update in awhile. Spending alot of time on the doors. More details here
Worked on the nose cone as well. Had to extend like so many others had to do. But moving along slowly.
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A piece of advice. Make sure your hood sides, if you have one, are sanded down to the "molded side trim" and set it on with the suggested bumpers. Mark your grill sides where it stops so you can see where the engine side covers will land when sitting on the nose cone. I had to cut my nose cone down the middle at the bottom and fiberglass it back together so I could get the sides down further on the grill. Do not trim the front of the side covers until you have the nose cone set. The geometry changes when you extend the nose cone.You can sand the sides of the hood down some more after to get your gaps. Ask me how I know.
Congratulations on the build so far.
Cannot believe it has been so long since I posted any updates. Life gets in the way sometimes. I have always kept up with all you guys and your progress. But hoping to put some time back into it and get it a least as far as titling the car. Took the body back off and added some more fiberglass in the thin areas and then applied bed liner.
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A LONG ways to go but at least started putting down some body filler.
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Got the body in pretty good shape. Next is to apply a coat of Evercoat G2. Then mount the body and start finish fitting the doors, trunk, and hood. Hopefully I am on the right track.
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Applied the G2 and did some preliminary sanding. At first look I am pretty pleased with the results. I did not think I was that close. Of course when I check with a guide coat later I will see all kinds of surprises. Body is set in place and now I will work on fitting the trunk and go from there. Slow progress but getting there when I have time.
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Had the same issue several others had. The trunk did not fit at the bottom. Stuck out about 3/4" on both sides. I used the same idea that bgardner did in this post.
I created a cardboard template then used ratchet straps to pull the trunk into the matching shape. Cut some maple butcher block I had left over into the correct shape to match the inside. Bolted it down with rivnuts and test fit. Fit great. Removed wood pieces and notched both sides. Reattached using Evercoat short fiber. Turned out rock solid. I am test fitting with all the rubber seals on. When I bolted the trunk back down I used ratchet straps to pull the lid down tight as pictured. It came out all lined up. The latch from FactoryFive really blows. I messed with it for a while. I think I am going to do what I have seen others do on the forum and just use a twist handle. Any recommendations?
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For trunk I used the locking handle that Speedway sells.
Thanks Jim. I see the following link in your thread. Just adding it here so it may help others searching as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1932-...it,418663.html
That’s it. Looks like the price has doubled since I bought it.
Looking really good... Not much more before paint and cruise....