I recommend a battery tender no matter what battery you have. It will extend the life.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducky2009
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I recommend a battery tender no matter what battery you have. It will extend the life.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducky2009
Here is one without the body onQuote:
Originally Posted by zee
https://i.postimg.cc/zfhc35xX/20220331-051308.jpg
But the expensive ones are faster!Quote:
Originally Posted by rich grsc
I'm sure you believe that, as your wallet is so much lighter. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Avalanche325
When I build mine I will move the battery to the engine compartment. At the build school in February another student connected the cables to the wrong terminals, he could not see the top of the battery under the body. Fried the fuel injection. We did not have a car that could drive at the end of the class.
Nobody has suggested a $1k batteryQuote:
Originally Posted by rich grsc
I have the FFMetal box that was mounted in the center of the trunk with a 4 link. Just moved the battery box today so I could mount the 3 link frame in position. This was all done with the car complete and I was able to get my #34 battery in. I still need to do an aluminum patch but it is all covered with carpet so it will not be seen. I like the trunk mount for several reason; it’s in the trunk, it’s hidden and it’s not under my hood. Did I mention, I don’t want my battery under the hood?
Attachment 164955
Has anyone done a battery box behind the rear wheel on the driver's side of an MK4? There is a a lot of real estate there for a battery, extra storage, etc. As I am contemplating my build, I am envious of this space and making it useful.
There is a guy out in So Cal who does it. His first name is Frank I believe and if you go on to YouTube he is i.e. 427 Garage. I know he has done it on a MKIII, I assume he also does a MKIV.
Here is how I did my dropped trunk. Made the panels myself. It is a VERY worthwhile change.
Attachment 165037
Attachment 165038
https://youtu.be/rr_Z2N0ErQk?t=152Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted G
This video will start at the right point. Even if not doing the battery box there, it's very useful to add it as an extra storage for small items.
Just to offer a point that I haven't seen discussed.
Battery weight and placement might matter to you. Many talk about corner balance and adjusting coilovers to adjust the balance. A good plan from what I've seen. Moving a 40# battery around will change things, good or bad that's up to you and your scales to determine. Perhaps not real important on a street car but more important on a track car.
In a past life and different car the battery was on the driver's side behind the rear wheel. Corner balance wasn't great, way heavy to the left rear. We pulled the battery and placed it over the passenger side headers about 10" in from the outer body. Most of the corner balance issues were resolved or got significantly better. For those cars the left rear was the heavy point, the front right the light. All this was checked on properly used scales.
Another thought about lightweight batteries is securing Mass. It's a whole lot easier to tie down a smaller / lighter item than a larger / heavier piece. I've seen what a 40# battery does in an instantaneous stop.
BTW, I'm regrouping and looking at the ATX20-HD as an option as Hooper has mentioned. Just over 5# and $399 MSRP. Opens up options for placement while reducing concerns for balance.
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...-oem/atx20-hd/
Jim
Another happy customer using the FF metal drop battery mod. It is tucked away and opens up the trunk.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1612924670
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1624142920
Do it all! Heater+Glove Box+Wipers+Breeze Cubby in the back, all with a Coyote. It'll fit with a little creativity.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulRSchmidt
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1648340647
Very nice!! Where is the glovebox from?Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffP
You have to make an access panel to the battery. Use rivenuts. Who would put a permanent panel over a battery box?Quote:
Originally Posted by I want a coupe
I don’t think anyone said they put a permanent panel over a battery box or at least I didn’t read it that way. Mine has a cover over it with screws to have access to the battery.
I was just responding to someone's comment:
"At the build school in February another student connected the cables to the wrong terminals, he could not see the top of the battery under the body."
No harm, no foul, just responding to what I had read, perhaps it was different than how I read it :-)
I have the FFmetal battery box in my MK2 IRS build. I replaced the battery very easily, no struggle at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by swwebb
Its the prefab vinyl dash w/glove box from ff.Quote:
Originally Posted by zee
All,
Thanks for the great responses to this post. I decided to fabricate my own drop box in the rear similar to some of what was shown here.
It's all about power to weight ratio!Quote:
Originally Posted by rich grsc
They didn't think to look at the battery first? Or have a mirror, or a phone to have a look?Quote:
Originally Posted by I want a coupe
I have the Breeze battery mount (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...-1-4-roadster/). It's a well-made part and I highly recommend it.
I fabbed a spare tire mount for my trunk (for a donut spare), so putting the battery below the trunk floor was no bueno for me.
David
For those of you using the Breeze kit, the site says it’s made to fit MK 3 and newer. Anyone see any issues with it fitting a MK II?
Mine is behind the rear wheel on the passenger side. Plenty of room there too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted G
520 Speedworks did it in their salvage 427 build featured on YouTube.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted G
https://youtu.be/f-JMRz2Q2vA
No offence to Greg, but we've got him beat on the rear, fender mount battery by about 10 years. I'll see if I can dig up the original thread posted on the forum but here's a link to answer one of the questions about it on our fb page dated April of 2016. By far my favorite spot to mount a battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
https://www.facebook.com/IE427-89165...90926444277008
Found it. August 2010
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/new-b.../#post-2303541
I put mine up front. It’s clean, easy and very accessible.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1659310380
If using the FFmetal trunk mount kit with solid rear axle:
I have the 289 kit with solid rear axle. I used the FFmetal kit and it initially interfered with the travel of the rear differential. FFmetal is an awesome, well built unit, but I had to modify it by raising it up 2 inches to clear the diff travel.
FYI, that's what the big hole in the bottom of the box is for. Just put a 4x4 under the battery and use your floor jack to lift it up. Or enlist a friend to get underneath the back of the car and push up. In 17 years, I've removed my battery 3 times by myself and it just lifts right up and out - it's not easy, but totally worth it. The weight in the back in good, the space it frees up is great, I have remote battery terminals in the trunk so I can charge the battery. There's really no negative to having it back there.Quote:
Originally Posted by swwebb
Tip: Leave the handle on the battery and use it to lift the battery out in 5-7 years.
X2 on Bills experience. To the naysayers It is an urban myth that the battery is difficult to remove. It really is time to move on.
On the FFMetals box. Anyone happen to have a couple pictures of the clearances we are left with on the 3-link cross bar and diff cover when using this box?
There's not a ton of clearance, but just enough. I even had an aluminum rear diff cover. Never had an issue in 18 years.
BTW, I own ffmetal.com. Ask me anything.
Attachment 210381Attachment 210380
Attachment 210383
Unconventional.
NiceQuote:
Originally Posted by Bill_VA
I ordered it today :) I guess given how tight it is I didn’t think to ask if it will fit with the Ford GT500 finned cover?
My setup is same as yours with the exception of the diff cover.
Hopefully my finned cover does sit back any further than yours
Attachment 210389
I did that once, everything was fine except the horn sucked and the radio listened.Quote:
Originally Posted by I want a coupe
My argument for a rear battery.
1. These cars need all the weight in the rear that you can get.
2. Batteries don't like heat.
3. Engine compartment looks better without it.
4. You will likely not need to touch the battery for 7 - 10 years, so it doesn't need to be very serviceable.
5. If you do need to remove it, the FFmetals box has a hole in the bottom. Use a piece of wood and a jack and it pushes it up for easy removal.
FF Metals box will not fit if you’re running a GT500 finned cover on a Ford 8.8 solid axle 3-link. It hits.
I will add this is a super nice piece however and Id like to find a smaller battery that may allow me to notch the box and still use it. Very well made, worth the mod and changing a battery if there’s a sufficiently smaller one.
Any suggestions on battery options would be appreciated.