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Slow going as I'm still missing parts here and there and work/landscaping getting in the way. Ready to install the diff/IRS hardware when I return from a work trip to west Texas.
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Attachment 164493Attachment 164494
Slow going as I'm still missing parts here and there and work/landscaping getting in the way. Ready to install the diff/IRS hardware when I return from a work trip to west Texas.
Slow progress as I was away on work travel and we had family in town for a week after that. How hard can one crank down on the brass outlet fittings on the master cylinders? I know they need to be pointed up, but I’m not sure they’re in tight enough.
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If you can figure out the type of pipe thread it is, then you can simply look on a chart to find what that joint is designed to be torqued to.
Example NPT (National Pipe Thread) torque chart:
https://www.engineersedge.com/hardwa...tion_13424.htm
A little more progress, but stuck on this task awaiting parts.
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Also, having a tough time getting the last bolt in on the IRS diff installation (aft passenger side bolt into the diff housing). It’s off just enough that that I can’t get the threads started. Still working on it.
So after letting the car sit for 5 days, I come back, clean up the PS rear mounting hole threads on the diff, and the bolt goes right in. Diff installed and most of the suspension, but missing 2 bolts to allow me to finish*. That’s the story of this car and my POL wait list. I can’t finish much as there is a bolt missing for that assembly, a part for the other assembly, etc. I did receive the electrical harness and driveshaft this weekend, but not anywhere close to the point that I can even consider installing those. I will get one of the rear uprights/hubs installed today and then steering shaft, but I’ll have to switch to full-time aluminum body panel prep here shortly.
*Does anyone know where on-line I can buy M16x2.00 110mm bolts without having to buy a pack of 25? I’ve not had any luck tracking those down. I only need 2 to finish the IRS installation less shocks (no springs yet).
I bought a 5 pack from McMaster. They’re a different finish than the others but were stronger.
I looked there and could only find 100mm length and regular hex head vs the flange head. I don't care about the finish. I'll look again. Thanks.
edit - replied to wrong message.Quote:
Originally Posted by sam_sturdy
Not sure if you have 'Do it Center' hardware stores around, but my local mom and pop place had every grade 8 bolt that you could possibly imagine. I was able to find everything on my POL list for about 50$ and kept right on moving. I would imagine an Ace hardware might be similar, but the smaller places surprisingly have a crazy selection vs HD or Lowes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chainsaw
The Ace Hardware I went to already didn’t have the flange head bolts that long. I have another close by that I’ll check.
Some progress on the rear end. Did the passenger side IRS install.
Attachment 165763
Still a few things to work on that I can complete (sway bars, tank installation, steering shaft, body panels.) Fun times.
Finished the IRS installation with the sway bars, but still don’t have the rear springs to finish the shock build up and installation. Thanks to FFR in expediting the 2 missing M16x110mm bolts to me. :)
Attachment 165956
Re-centered the power steering rack and cleaned up the installation.
Installed the steering shafts/knuckles. Everything seemed to go together pretty well (which frightens me and makes me think I screwed it up somehow.)
Attachment 165959
Will start installing the fuel tank and several body panels next.
I'm also building mine loosely on 2557. I may go with a lighter color but I'm planning on attempting the dash layout/interior.
I was able to get speedhut to print my speedo and tach with SW logos. I went with a 3 3/8 speedo and 4" tach.
The center dash gauges are larger than the standard FFR gauge package.
oil temp, oil pressure, water temp and amps gauges are 2 5/8 SW and the fuel is a 2 1/8 SW.
3D printing my glovebox and will machine a glovebox latch as close as I can muster to the originals.
I have just about everything I need to start building other than Control Arms which Gordon Levy has for me sitting in a box somewhere between his shop in Arizona and my house in Ontario Canada.
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Working on body panels. Fuel tank next.
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As some have stated on the forum, the instructions can be a little vague. Sorting out what extra steps you have to do is part of the fun, I guess.
Try Belmetric. They sell individual bolts.
https://belmetric.com/bolts/?Diamete...&Length=110mm&
Taking a couple of days away from the project. Got the floor and footbox panels mounted. Now waiting on parts and working my consulting gig (=making some money for more parts.)
You're already ahead of me. Awaiting control arms all around, somewhere between Levy's shop and my home?
Things are looking great on your build. The brushed aluminum looks really good.
Thanks. It helps to be mostly retired.Quote:
Originally Posted by OttawaFFRer
The Scotchbrite scrub really works out, but it can be tedious. Thanks to whoever came up with that one. I'm still waiting on front upper control arms and the Wilwood brakes to finish up the corners. POL stuff is coming in slowly, but coming in. Got my windshield last week.
Ready to install the fuel tank next, then hook up the MCs and run some brake lines. Buying plenty of stuff from Breeze, Russ T, Period Correct, etc. to try to keep the parts coming in to stay on track.
Made a little progress. Assembled a 255 lph Walbro pump and ProM hangar and installed in the tank. The pump is overkill for my project, but if I go with more power later, I didn’t want to have to redo the pump/hanger. Tank ready to install as soon as I tighten up the coupler nuts on the “Kleiner mod”. Waiting for the POR15 on the couplers to dry.
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Made a bracket from some unused body panel material and installed the Scotts Hotdods triple reservoirs. I think the unit positioned okay, but please advise if I should consider moving it. Still need a grommet for front of the foot box for the three hoses running to the MCs.
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I’m going to redo the reservoir bracket with some .063” 6061. The .040 stuff is probably okay, but I don’t like the flex I’m seeing even with the hoses attached.
Tank installed
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Received the front UCAs yesterday and worked on them today. I think I did things correctly, but it was a long wrestling match today to get the IFS completed. I still have to torque the hub nuts.
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Still waiting on Wilwood brakes. :(
Got on the list with Spotlight Customs for paint/body. Lead time is roughly 6 months. Should match up good with my pace (if I get a move-on.)
Finished the Breeze engine compartment battery box installation. Had to break out the HF pneumo rivet gun to install those SS rivets. I didn't have enough lead in my pencil to do those manually.
Ran the front brake lines. The NiCop line is pretty easy to use overall, but getting it straight seems to be a challenge for me. My engineering and QA tendencies were definitely triggered, but I had to get past that.
Moved on to running the rear brake line. Made several minor errors that eventually caused me to realize I needed to "rip" all that out and start over, but I learned a lot. That was another humbling experience in this long series of humbling experiences.
I did get some help which may have distracted me.
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I want to add some lower bracing to the dash. Are there any strong opinions regarding using Mike Everson's under dash panel vs the Breeze support brackets?
Re: the above, I ordered Mike Everson's under dash filler panel.
For any owners in hot-n-humid areas, do I need to go with a larger coolant expansion tank than what's provided by FFR? My ride will be mostly a cruiser, but I will do some autocross and maybe some HPDE runs on a track. I'd rather bite the bullet now than try to redo the system later.
Best Helper You Could Ever Get!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chainsaw
....Wrench On Chainsaw, Wrench On!
I'm in Virginia, not as hot as you, but it gets pretty warm and humid in the summer. I used a larger tank, with my 302 it was difficult to get the right level in the FFR supplied tank. I found one on Jegs that was similar in style to the FFR expansion tank. My notes say it was this one (Jegs 52oz 3x16 inch stainless coolant overflow tank):Quote:
Originally Posted by Chainsaw
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/511036/10002/-1
OF course there are many choices, I just liked the look of the FFR tank and decided to find one of a similar size.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoDadGo
My grandson acted like he knew what he was doing which is more than I can say about my work.
Going with the JEGS tank. Thanks for the recommendation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper
POL stuff coming in after a dry spell. Roll bar assembly came in today. Some fastener hardware and rear springs on the way.
Got the brake lines done (UGLY, but functional.) Still fighting with fuel lines. I also got the TrickFlow fuel filter located and mounted (similar to Mr. Borror's 20 Anniv build).
Received some Fragola hose end fittings yesterday and found out today that I ordered the wrong ones. Ordered the right fittings today and sending the wrong ones back.
Attachment 168489
Got the DS elephant ear temporarily mounted before I ran out of time. Will do the PS on tomorrow. I should have done this when I installed the F-panel. Lesson-learned.
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Got the fuel hard lines fitted in yesterday. They look far better than I expected. Now to work on building the hoses.
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Rear springs showed up on my doorstep today. Built up the rear shocks and then couldn't find the 4" bolts for the top shock mount. They must've walked away, so I made yet another trip to Ace and secured 2x. Too hot to work in the garage this afternoon (feels like 130F in there), so I'll finish the shock installs next week.
Another POL shipment due today and my wheels are supposed to arrive this coming week. I’m trying to keep the outflow of boxes at least equal to the inflow of new boxes.
While I didn't have the POL issue, I had to manage boxes coming in from other parts/tool suppliers to keep them under my wife's RADAR....
Oh, yeah. My wife keeps wondering why there’s still so many boxes stacked up in the garage since so many parts are on the car and I’ve thrown away or recycled many boxes already. “Gee, I don’t know, honey.”Quote:
Originally Posted by cnutting
Big screw-up yesterday. I was cutting the 3" hole for the DS blast gate using an adjustable hole saw. Just as the saw was cutting through the adjustable part decided it wanted to adjust itself right then and there (set screw unset) causing some significant spiral scratching on the foot box front face. Not structurally significant, but quite ugly. :( It won't buff out without removing significant material. I'll pass.
So I ordered some .040 6061 sheet stock to attempt to make a bezel for the front face of the foot box and bought some real hole saws.
While I wait, I'll read up on and start on the electrical harness install.
The Before with scratches and the mis-drilled holes due to a drill template that didn’t exactly match what needed to be drilled.
Attachment 168818
And the After with the new bezel to cover the hideous stuff in the picture above.
Attachment 168819
Fun times.
On to the PS vent and how it should looked installed.
Attachment 168847
I'm not doing the final install as I assume I'll need to punch this through the carpet and insulation first.
Wheels arrived today, but 2 of them are 17x10.5. Not that I wouldn't want them, but per everyone they're too wide for the 289 Roadster. Waiting for FFR to contact me back about a swap for the correct 17x9.0 versions.
Attachment 168847
Question on the installation of the blast gates. I really don't want to mount the blast gate on the outside of the footbox, but I'm not sure I'll have enough thread engagement on the outside of the box after pushing this through the insulation and carpet. Does anyone have any guidance and/or recommendations on this?
I am a little confused by what you are asking, thread engagement? It looks like you already have the gate mounted and would just cut the insulation/carpet around the gate on the inside of the footbox. You just need to use a hose clamp to affix the hose to the lip sticking out of the gate. On the inside I ended up using a choke cable attached to the gate to manually open and close mine which has been working good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chainsaw
I was intending to put the insulation and carpet down first and then install the gate on top of that. I am concerned that the thickness of the insulation/carpet would be such that I can’t get enough thread engagement and/or enough engagement for the 3’’ hose clamps to get a good grip on the gate. I’ll probably put the insulation down first and punch through for the 4 attachment studs and the 3” lip. Then, I’ll cut the carpet around the most of gate assembly as you mention above. Thanks for the input.
I have the vent pull knobs and cables from Period Correct that I’ll attach.