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I have a gen1 kit, shipped late 2018. Hot rod insulation instructions were separate, I have digital copy, revB from 2015.
http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/cont...insulation.pdf
Piece was rectangular. Here's a snapshot from those separate instructions.
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Note in the instructions they say it's for the waterfall but this is where they show it in the pic.
Steve
Thanks Steve...yeah unfortunately there were no location instruction that I found (I checked all the boxes and nothing in the manual) which is fine, after about an hour of placing all the various pieces I figured it out. By process of elimination I came up with the exact sheet that you show.Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
I didn't like how that sheet however didn't cover the whole shelf and left portion of the tank with nothing under it so I grabbed similar material I have for my 55 F100 and filled in the whole shelf under the tank.
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I glued mine on the waterfall and then added some more where it did not cover it properly. Did not place anything under the tank other then some flat rubber isolators where the attachment points were. This winter I will be sealing off the waterfall better to buffer the exhaust sounds that you hear through the seatbelt slots. Most likely design and 3D print removable plugs to fill the space but just hold the straps.Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Tony, do you have a part number you could share with a few pics of your setup??Quote:
Originally Posted by tony
Yes...I'd like to know this too. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by AJT '33
Yeah, there are extra AC, power windows, and insulation instructions on the web site (along with others!). Best thing to do when you get your kit is to download everything that is applicable so you have them on hand.... Note, the AC unit has now changed and the instructions along with it. If anyone has a gen1 kit and doesnt have the extra instructions I have a link for it (also appears in my build thread).Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
In the end, I didn't put that insulation piece under the tanks as my tank was already installed. I did exactly has Andreas outlined - put it on the waterfall and added more to get better coverage.
Steve
I think that the problem is that the optimal approach is different depending on what makes your build unique. For example, I welded on running board supports and an extension in the back, so I ordered the chassis without powder coating. I also added several other custom features that aren't part of the FFR design. My plan is to build up the entire car, do some shakedown drives, then tear down the whole thing and get the chassis powder coated - maybe while the body is being painted. My goal is to work out any issues ahead of time and so avoid drilling any more holes in the frame after powder coating. Obviously, this approach is better for a car more on the "custom" end of the spectrum and is not recommended for everyone. If you are building a basic car without any changes to the kit, then a completely different build plan would probably be best, IMHO. Keith HR #894
Fuel tank & accessories mounted, trunk hinges installed to be sure tank is centered between the hinges and the aluminum plate behind the tank temporarily installed
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From the CUSTOM side , you really need to work up your build first as much as possible because it gets harder to work in changes. Some things are hard to see ( as in some things or parts not working well together, or as seen in our mind ) and yes it is more money and work! But you end up with a one off car that came from your mind!
Busy evening....got the front brakes assembled and ready to be plumbed. Also installed the inner foam (very hard, dense stuff) between the frame partitions for the floor and then drilled and hand riveted ~100 rivets into the floor. Glad that is done. Of course my pneumatic rivet gun started leaking fluid after the 4th rivet so I had to go back to manual; riveting. :(
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Very little done on the car this weekend...I did get the insulation on the inside of the firewall over the sound deadener so I can start on the pedal box & steering column next.
I spent most of the weekend doing winter prep outside (building a shed, filling the shed with patio furniture, cutting down flowers, bushes, other landscaping, trimming trees and of course picking up leaves). Next weekend (shouldn't be the whole weekend) I need to finish up outside.
I needed to set the right example for my kids who are older now. Their whole lives I've harped on them that chores come before fun stuff so as much as I would have loved to work on the car all weekend long I figured I'd look like a hypocrite if I did that verses my chores.
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I'm guessing that you probably have a Gen 2 kit so this part should be the same as my Gen 1 kit.
Where the body meets the back side of the firewall you'll need to trim off the foam sound deadening material so the body fits flush to the aluminum firewall.
Easier to do it now than later when you have a lot of parts mounted behind the firewall.
Thanks for the heads up Jim, do you remember how much needs to be trimmed off? 1/2".... less...more?Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
good tip from Jim, you can actually measure the amount - go over to the body and measure the "flange" around the firewall area. I think it's more than 1/2" probably around 3/4Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Steve
Thanks SteveQuote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Just got off the phone with Mike Forte, nice guy. I asked if the kit in the link provided by AJT '33 (TKO-600 Hydraulic Clutch Kit https://fortesparts.com/product/fort...ic-clutch-kit/ ) will fit my T5 and Mike said nope, you'll need a different bracket. I asked if there was a part number for the kit with the bracket I needed and he said no, he just pieces it together and it will be the same price as the TKO-660 kit so he took my information, I gave him my CC info and it will ship tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by AJT '33
The kit like the one for the TKO-600 comes with master cylinder, slave cylinder, push rods, fork, bracket, HW & hoses, I just need to drill two holes in the bell housing.
Should be here by the end if the week.
To everyone who changed my mind about the clutch cable, Thanks much, I appreciate you sharing your experiences and providing a better solution.
Now we will be looking to you to see how it installed so we can make our lives easier to install as well. As I have a TKO600 I would expect that his base kit will install easily. Following!Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Once I receive it, I'll provide pics and any instructions / learnings as I got through it.Quote:
Originally Posted by AJT '33
Got the Willwood pedal box, brake master cylinders and brake reservoir installed last night. plumbed the reservoir side of the brake system.
I still need to plumb the brake lines. I'll wait on this though until my upper control arms for the rear 4-link suspension arrive so I can install the differential and brakes.
Still need to install the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch kit when it arrives from Mike Forte.
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You may want to keep in mind the location of the reservoir if your running with a hood to ensure that there is no interferences. Typically I suggest that anything in the area of the hood pins be left off until the hood is installed and the pins located otherwise you may be relocating the reservoir and having holes to fill. Just a thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
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Thanks AJT '33.... I spent quite a bit of time looking at the body / hood to try to get a location that wouldn't interfere. I's actually mounted right on the same location the hole for the clutch cable would have gone so I figured if the bulky clutch cable didn't interfere the reservoir shouldn't either, but I'll definitely check everything again before getting too far.Quote:
Originally Posted by AJT '33
I order the steering column unfinished since I was going to either paint it black, or the body color verses the chromed version option but like I did with the front suspension this thing buffed up so nice that I just sprayed clear on it so it retains the machine finish while not having to worry about it rusting.
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I was thinking the same as Andreas but then realized, looks like you have the gen 2 - I believe the new hood arrangement deletes the pins so you shouldn't have to worry. Keep the middle of the firewall clear though for the latch mechanism.Quote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Steve
Yes, I have the Gen2...Thanks SteveQuote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Great progress, you and I are both building 302 with T5. Subscribed.
Awesome...hope things are going well on your end.Quote:
Originally Posted by e36m3
Not the steering rack housing itself, but did any of you find the "center" of the rack before attaching the tie rods to the spindles and completing the steering rod joints.
I've seen a lot of post for this on the MK4 but I didn't see any for the 33 HR...wondering if anyone centered their rack on their 33 HR and if yes, what procedure did you follow?
Thanks
Adding the procedure I'm used to doing on other racks...wondering why this wouldn't work...I do it installed in the car by the way verses on a bench
On a bench, turn the pinion out to lock one way. Measure from a convenient point to the end of the inner tie rod. (This rack was 17 3⁄4). Turn the pinion of the opposite lock position and measure from the same point to the end of the same tie rod (11 3⁄4). 17 3⁄4 minus 11 3⁄4 = 6. Divided by 2 = 3 Add that number to the smallest measurement (11 3⁄4” + 3” = 14 3⁄4”) and turn the pinion back till you get that measurement and your rack is centered.
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Yes. Process was count the number of turns lock to lock. Now put it in the center (by moving half the turns) and mount the steering wheel so it's centered. Adjust tie rods accordingly....
I just ran out to the garage real quick to do this, and on the 33 HR I measured it on the driver's side from the end of the threaded tie rod shaft to the metal lip on the rack housing where the edge of the boot meets.
Turning all the way out to the stop I measure 15.5", turning all the way in to the other stop, I measure 11", so the difference is 4.5"; half of which is 2.25" so adding 2.25" to 11" that's 13.25" so I turn the rack until i measure 13.25 at my reference point and low and behold the notch in the steering shaft is pointing up to where it was when I started. I guess it was centered from the factory.
Did it this way too.Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Thanks All, I appreciate the input on the steeringQuote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
Got all the steering shafts routed, and tightened up. The steering is nice and smooth with no tightness.
A lot of weird angles though in all the shafts, whoever designed this must of liked working with erector sets as a kid. Also got the tie rods loosely installed. Once I get the wheels I'll install them and try to get the toe as close as I can and then torque down the tie rods.
I'll be removing the steering wheel and storing it so it doesn't get damaged, I just wanted to make sure the steering was smooth using the wheel.
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I suggest dimpling the rods (steering rods) where the set screws hit just a bit with a drill and then of course on final fit-up, some red loctite. These connections I regularly check with maintenance and have found them loose once (even with the aforementioned precautions).
Nice job!
Already one-step ahead....once I figured out the positioning I dimpled them and I added red loctite, but I absolutely appreciate the advice / heads up.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOP33
I will definitely add checking connections to my regular maintenance routine.
Lots of stuff done today:
* Installed hydraulic clutch M/C
* Plumbed hydraulic clutch reservoir
* Fitted engine mounts
* fitted transmission mount
* installed engine ground strap on frame
* plumbed fuel line
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More pics.... waiting on some AN-fittings to finish plumbing the fuel pump.
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Very nice.
Just want to remind you to take the brake lines as tight (and as horizontal as poss, less vertical) as you can coming out of the master cylinders. I didn't have my body and didn't put enough thought into it.. but the gauges may be right in the same space as these brake lines, if you want to see them through steering wheel. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Thanks for the heads up on the brake lines...I appreciate the insightQuote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
I've got a Gen 1 Hot Rod and the kit included Master Cylinders that are slightly different style from those shown in your photos. I have a Dakota Digital instrument cluster that I want to center over the steering column. I found that there is no space behind the dashboard to recess the cluster. If you are using individual instruments it may be possible to install them above the MC, but maybe then they will be out of your line of sight. The solution I'm investigating now is the Whitby power brake system - it eliminates the MC in the pedal box entirely. I'm not sure yet if the Whitby booster will fit with my Coyote engine, but I doubt that would be an issue with your SBC. Of course, you can always install the instruments in the "stock" position, centered over the transmission tunnel, and avoid the issue altogether. Keith HR #894Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
Thanks Keith....I too went with the Dakota Digital Instrument cluster but I haven't given a lot of thought where I'm going to place it yet (stock or other). I'll look into the Whitby power brake system. Thanks for the heads up.Quote:
Originally Posted by progmgr1