What would you do differently?

Hyde,

I believe that Mike Forte's mechanical throttle linkage solves many problems. A carb or carb style EFI assumed.
First off it's a clean design, easy to see and adjust.
Adjustment - it's two lever arms on a shaft and you can adjust where on the arms you are pulling/pushing from. This allows you to lengthen or shorten the throw and amount of pedal travel you have to work with. More pedal travel enhances the ability to modulate the throttle action. In simple terms you no longer have an on/off switch for a throttle.
From there you can add a throttle stop so that you can't get full throttle. Full throttle = full torque, full torque = spinning back tires, spinning back tires = big trouble quickly. As you learn the car you can change the stop's position. This is just like training wheels.

Go big, the 427 Windsor is a great choice. Then learn how to drive it.

A Cobra is a dream for many, do it in technicolor.

Jim

Using heat shield in the engine bay panels. even though one can barely see them once the engine is in, but I still look at it and I see it. and thinking that may be I should have gone with some thermal coating.

PS I went with 347ci Blueprint engine, with 410 horses. As a daily driver I drive Camaro 1LE with 426hp, and I track it at HPDE. Holy smokes, the Cobra is different. Camaro is just a tamed little easy car, bland and boring.

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Originally Posted by Jim1855

Hyde,

I believe that Mike Forte's mechanical throttle linkage solves many problems. A carb or carb style EFI assumed.
First off it's a clean design, easy to see and adjust.
Adjustment - it's two lever arms on a shaft and you can adjust where on the arms you are pulling/pushing from. This allows you to lengthen or shorten the throw and amount of pedal travel you have to work with. More pedal travel enhances the ability to modulate the throttle action. In simple terms you no longer have an on/off switch for a throttle.
From there you can add a throttle stop so that you can't get full throttle. Full throttle = full torque, full torque = spinning back tires, spinning back tires = big trouble quickly. As you learn the car you can change the stop's position. This is just like training wheels.

Go big, the 427 Windsor is a great choice. Then learn how to drive it.

A Cobra is a dream for many, do it in technicolor.

Jim

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Jim,
This is the way I looked at it when I was deciding on drive train. I will go with the BPE 427 485/475 EFI with Tremec 5 speed. Just undecided on OD gear. Any thoughts on o.64:1 for OD?

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

If you know how you want to use the car you won’t have too many regrets when completed. I spent a lot of time thinking about how I would use mine and why it was such a desire for me to build one of these. The real issue is what you are willing to spend on the things you want. My opinion is, once you have decided what it is you are going to do with the car, stick with the plan, but put the very best components and effort into the plan that you are willing to afford. There are some things I wish I’d done sooner though. I’m currently installing foot ventilation on a completed car and it would have been much easier doing it during the build stage.

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OMG yes. This is the some of the wisest advice. Plan your build and build your plan. The FFR kit is the price of admission, and it goes north from there. Without a clear vision of what you want, you can spend budget and hours chasing something that is nice to have (cause you saw it in the forum :) and these add up). Once I put on paper what I wanted from my build and could stick to it, I felt so much happier (and stopped chasing that special bolt/nut/flush-mount rivet from McMaster). And never ever ever tell your wife how much painting will cost. Oh yeah, that was a mistake yesterday.

And my list of what I would do different.
- choose your powder coater wisely. It's heartbreaking when you see blemishes on your panels and have to keep refusing them.
- really nail the drop down trunk you want (look at both options carefully and choose). Don't change it AFTER you cut it out for your first choice and then change you mind. lol.
- find a build thread for a comparable builder. Some of the premier threads here are superb to get hints from, but stick to your plan. I have found myself more than once buying new parts in the middle of the night because of a new thread. that adds up after a while.
- buy your engine early. My friend has his engine for his build delivered at the same time. It kept his motivation super high, as he wanted to see that in the car asap. In fact I think I spent more time getting his car done than mine. hmm.. When I ordered my engine, it kicked me into gear and all the fiddly things I was dragging my feet on became important again as I had a goal. Setting goals is important to keep your enthusiasm up, especially when is 115 in your garage in the middle of an Austin summer.

Good luck, absolutely do it. it is a life changing event and will bring you different adventures that you don't expect. Even my cave dwelling teenager has come out of his darkness to help me more than once.

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Originally Posted by ThreeSpore

- buy your engine early.

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- and buy your (new, expensive) tires late - buy used Mustang wheels + tires (cheap) for the build + bodywork stages.

Try to pick up someone else's scrubs / cast offs (full size) for body / fender fit up + such.


Regardless - good tires are not something you want sitting on an incomplete car for possibly years before you're actually ready to use them - they age out and get hard (body work doesn't do them any favors either).

Kmcallahan & group,

It's a system, plan accordingly. There are combinations that may be more comfortable for YOU depending on what you plan to do with your car.

My selection is a TKO-600 w/ .64 OD although I'm still considering the T56 to have both ODs. 3.27 or 3.31 gears. 17" tires. Engine is a 427W approx 535 at the flywheel and 440 at the wheels. I like road tracks, not an autocrosser (all I see are cones) and really don't care about drag racing. Lots of street driving to include cross country travels. 140 in 4th at VIR South Track & Grattan, 157 in 4th pushing it, 11.8/120 quarter mile. Drives well on the street. Big smiles and no issues with unplanned tire spin but this is a fine line. I run good street tires, not 200 TW. I plan on getting wet (not quite smart enough...)

Look at speed/rpm/gear calculators. Try to coordinate torque curves to the drivetrain and what you want. Bigger motors negate most of the concerns and work well with the .64 OD, 3.31 gears.

Jim

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Originally Posted by JohnK

You could always go with a Lund "ghost cam" tune to get that lumpy idle with a Coyote.

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https://youtu.be/_fJysY168Zk

I would add power steering. At this point I'm planning the electric power steering approach. I like the idea of being able to adjust the amount of power assist.

I think I would also have dropped the differential gear ratio from the 3.55 from FFR (got my kit in late 2008, MK3.1, when they included that as part of the package) down to 3.08. Reason being I have the Levy super alloy T5 with a 0.82 5th gear in the car, and it's wound up a little tight on highway driving (3K RPM at 80 mph). The 3.08 gear will drop me into the 2600 rpm range at 80 - still a little high, but the 347 I'm running in it likes the rpm. No good South of 2000.

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Originally Posted by Railroad

Something I miss, but do not totally regret. The Coyote, even 500 HP model, will idle so smooth it sounds like a stock engine. I am used to a choppy exhaust and like that.

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CHOP CHOP CHOP CHOP https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmHNStZtAak

Hey Kevin, do you track our mileage? I’m asking because my tuner said the ghost cam would reduce the mileage/efficiency of the Coyote and I’m just wondering if it’s true.

Late to the party as usual!!

Power Steering is a must - I added electric power steering after I "finished" it. Pretty simple.
Dropped trunk for a little more space. Did it and love it.
Battery in engine compartment. Mine is in the trunk - hard to get to and makes wiring a bit more difficult.
Russ Thompson turn signal. Did it and like it.
Breeze radiator hoses. Much better than standard radiator hose from Factory Five.
Heater depending on where you are. Nice for cool mornings or in the late fall, winter, or early spring in my neck of the woods (New Mexico mountains). Added after finished the build. Depends on your climate.
Mechanical throttle linkage from Mike Forte rather than cable connection.
High back seats - changed out after 1 year or so. Standard seats are too low - no whiplash protection. Highback seats are also more comfortable.
Heat Shields on the side pipes! Great addition! No more snake bites!

Ok - choosing an engine. I have a 347 with EZ-EFI 2.0. Do NOT go with the EZ-EFI 2.0 system. Lots of posts on problems with this system. Regarding the 347, pretty good. Maybe should have gone Coyote, but no big regrets. Wish I'd gone with a different engine builder than Gordon Levy, but that's another story.

You may want to look at Dave Smith's video on engines from April 2020.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpjwKZEgzj8

Steve

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Originally Posted by Hyde

I have always wanted a pop rivet gun, but have never needed one. Is it wrong that I am excited about all the tools that I don't have that I will need to buy? LOL

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I can tell you first hand that this is a common way to delay a build. I read the forums and think "Oh, I need one of those!" $100 bucks later a new package is in the garage and I'm no further along in my build.

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

Hey Kevin, do you track our mileage? I’m asking because my tuner said the ghost cam would reduce the mileage/efficiency of the Coyote and I’m just wondering if it’s true.

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Your on the wrong forum. Here is the link you want. https://priuschat.com/forum/

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Originally Posted by Avalanche325

Your on the wrong forum. Here is the link you want. https://priuschat.com/forum/

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LOL! What I've heard (I have no first-hand experience to back this up) is that the "ghost cam" tune only affects parameters at idle. The mapping for any throttle position above idle is the same as it otherwise would be without the ghost cam, i.e., it just turns into a "regular" coyote as soon as you step on the gas. So, the question of how much the ghost cam affects fuel economy comes down to how much of your driving is stop and go where you're sitting at idle. FWIW - I've also read that the ghost cam tune is really rich at idle - so much so that it'll kill catalytic converters (if that's a concern).

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Originally Posted by Avalanche325

Your on the wrong forum. Here is the link you want. https://priuschat.com/forum/

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Cute. What I'm after is range, currently over 300 per tank.

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Originally Posted by JohnK

LOL! What I've heard (I have no first-hand experience to back this up) is that the "ghost cam" tune only affects parameters at idle. The mapping for any throttle position above idle is the same as it otherwise would be without the ghost cam, i.e., it just turns into a "regular" coyote as soon as you step on the gas. So, the question of how much the ghost cam affects fuel economy comes down to how much of your driving is stop and go where you're sitting at idle. FWIW - I've also read that the ghost cam tune is really rich at idle - so much so that it'll kill catalytic converters (if that's a concern).

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Thanks, that's what the tuner said too, that the engine reverted to normal operation once the gas pedal was pressed. So maybe he was just indicating more gas use around town because of the more time spent at idle and not on long highway trips.

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

Hey Kevin, do you track our mileage? I’m asking because my tuner said the ghost cam would reduce the mileage/efficiency of the Coyote and I’m just wondering if it’s true.

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No never tracked the cars mileage. Thought you knew about the ghost cam when you posted. Mine is not a a LUND or a daily driver tune although I do run it for fun on occasion. Tends to be temperamental at low speeds & can buck a bit if you are not careful with it. Would not agree with the tuner that it reverts to the base program off idle. There might be a point or specific RPM that it switches back but I can/have gotten GC effects upwards of 50MPH depending on what gear I am in. Pretty much any around town driving with it.

Totally lives up to the - When You Drive A Cobra words

" When your engine has its hot, crackling, intimidating exhaust side-pipe aimed right at the flank of the GTO, or the Z28, your exhaust pulsation's slowly unscrewing his lug nuts, the other car will remain motionless, as if the slightest quiver of his car will cause your car to stomp it dead."

Have a number of tunes on my hand held & usually drive with a 93 octane performance tune which has a smooth quite (for open pipes) idle.

Lots of people complain about the stock FFR pipes bring to loud. I found them pretty quite unless you are pushing the pedal. Steady state driving I find the wind nose to be the most obtrusive listening to music. Punch the pedal & the engine due to changes in the variable valve & ignition timing absolutely screams through it exhaust. Can goose it a few blocks away & the wife knows I am on the way home.

I use the GC for the occasion car shows, cars & coffee or just riding around. More of a just showing off tune than anything really useful. COYOTE is so quite & stable under normal conditions is not like driving a COBRA.

Thanks for the info. Very cool! Love the quote too. I don’t know much about tuning and spent good money on having the tuner set it up and dyno it. It was nice having the idle lowered a bit and the start-up rpms lowered a bunch. So, can you change the tune with that computer anytime you want?

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

Thanks for the info. Very cool! Love the quote too. I don’t know much about tuning and spent good money on having the tuner set it up and dyno it. It was nice having the idle lowered a bit and the start-up rpms lowered a bunch. So, can you change the tune with that computer anytime you want?

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Yes takes about 10 minutes.

Just thought of one more thing. Not sure what transmission you're considering, but I have a T5. The 5th gear is OD with a 0.62 ratio. I would think about a 0.82 OD ratio instead, but that has to be evaluated with your rear end ratio - mine is 3.27. I would probably go with the 0.82 OD ratio if doing it again due to fact that I usually drive on secondary roads at 55-65 mph - I'm not on the Interstate much. Something to consider.

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Originally Posted by ILPBFoot

Many people associate the Cobra with a 427. Not a deal breaker but I wanted to wear the 427 badges and truly have it under the hood.

Have fun!

Steve

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Exactly. Which is why I have a hard time wrapping my brain around a non-427 in a s/c replica.

On the other hand, the 289FIA/USRRC was a SBF and it looks perfect in one. Of course, one has to explain to the uninitiated that the Cobra's that won the races and built the reputation was the FIA/USRRC car, not the 427. A 347 with .64OD and 3.73 gears may be the perfect combo: looks the part, geared for the meat of the power band when the right foot stomps, has enough power to scare the everlovin' crap out of you without being too much car for the average driver to handle, and low enough RPM's for the interstate.

Do not put 3:73 gears in these cars unless you have under 225 hp. These cars are light and the best all around gears for sbf are 3:55, as hp and torque go up go lower in ratio. A big block with big hp and torque would better suited to 3:08-3:27 gears.

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Originally Posted by walt mckenna

I would not waste money on the wipers unless you are building an all weather car with travel in mind.

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I agree, they're a hassle, unless you live in a state that requires wipers for registration (I know it's the case in WI, for example).

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Originally Posted by briankauf

I agree, they're a hassle, unless you live in a state that requires wipers for registration (I know it's the case in WI, for example).

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Some states allow manually operated wipers. Then you can use a clamp-on wiper made for boats to get through inspection.

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Originally Posted by GoDadGo

Mike223 and I have often lamented that less power (A Peppy 350-SBC or 351-SBF) would have been more enjoyable to drive compared to our peppier 383/393 combos.
To this point, my friend Heath J. installed a 351 in his MK-4 and he can still shred the tires in 1st and 2nd, and some wheel spin can happen once he is in 3rd gear.
Get past 400 ponies with similar torque figures and you better watch what you are doing with the Go-Dad peddle.
When I get a bit past half throttle in 1st gear I have to start peddling.

https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

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I had 525hp/535tq in my side-oiler SPF.

I would have preferred 100 less of each for a more enjoyable driving experience. I always had to make sure I was pointed in the right direction before getting aggressive on the throttle, and driving on even moderately wet roads was a challenge.

Less stress, and less need to be paying constant attention to throttle inputs. I don't care when kind of tires you have. A light car with immense power will always have the chance to unexpectedly break loose...at the worse possible moments.

Big power sounds great on paper, and many have the trained skills to enjoy the safe power management. But for the vast majority who aren't drag racing, aren't a seasoned hi-po driver, who haven't been to race school, don't need the ego hp/tq, but still like incredible performance with a safer performance window, anything over 400 or so hp becomes problematic.

Even the smallest of 302's will scare the crap out of you in a 2250lb. sled. I had the pleasure of driving an original 289 Cobra, and with 271hp that thing would light it up.

IMO, the best overall motor for these cars is a 347 with 400-415hp/tqs. I personally wouldn't put one in a 427s/c replica because it's not a 427, but in a FIA/USSRC car? Perfect!

We all have opinions, each one a blessing.

Hyde,

If I where to do it over I would make sure to have a final list of options I want in the car. I ended up adding things along the way which wasn’t impossible but didn’t help for overall streamlining of wiring etc. Also sometimes I shifted direction which meant undoing things I had previously done.
Finally make a list of attack and work on one thing till that’s done. Scratch it off the list and move to the next obstacle. Sounds silly but it’s easy to get side tracked with other ideas when things on one task don’t seem to go the way they should.
As far as spending money, some people are all about horsepower, some are about a show case paint job, some want it to be a daily driver with amenities etc. At the end of the day it’s your car and it has to please you when it’s done.
You’ll spend a good amount of money no matter which way you do it.

HTH,

John

If there was anything that I'd do differently, I think I'd purchase a functioning brain before I started the build! I have no doubt that it would have made the journey easier.

Noticed that the person who originally posted this question on the 8th hasn't been back to the site since the 10th. Guess she must have lost interest in the replies...

Jeff

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Noticed that the person who originally posted this question on the 8th hasn't been back to the site since the 10th. Guess she must have lost interest in the replies...

Jeff

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Back to post #21...

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Originally Posted by Hyde

I also used to do SCCA; I started out with a 1989 Mazda MX6 <snip> After that I bought a new Mustang GT 2000 with the modular 4.6 engine...really like it <snip> I decided to branch out from cars and starting riding bikes so I did that for a while. Then got bored again and bought a Hyundai Tiburon [also a fun car]. After that I got a Mazda Miata, got bored of that, moved on to a Mini Cooper S [very fun]! Got bored of that and started looking around for something I could get my hands a little dirtier with. <snip> So I thought what if I built something. I started down the path of a dune buggy type vehicle and slowly worked my way up to more expensive and expensive vehicles till I hit on the Cobra. I have always loved them, but never thought it would be possible to own one, but with the kits available, a good manual, and time on my hands I am thinking that is the direction I want to go.

<TLDR>I like cars, and I get bored easily</TLDR>

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Originally Posted by GTBradley

Cute. What I'm after is range, currently over 300 per tank.

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Can you actually stand a 5+ hour non-stop jaunt? Two hours and I am ready for a break in any car.

I’ve done five hours thirty minutes in an airplane as the only pilot, but no I don’t plan on 5 straight hours in the car. I also plan on more than 60 miles per hour average speed, especially across Kansas. I built this car for road trips, not strictly parades and car shows where I get gas every time I take it out. There are many reasons that range and efficiency are a good thing. I won’t list them here, I’ll just leave you the most important one: I want them.

I’ll bet if you were to ask Ken Miles if he’d like a light-weight engine that put out as much power as the original 427s and extended his time between pit stops at Daytona, he’d say “hell yes!”

Here are some things I have had BluePrint Engine customers come to regret, as well as some of my own experience from working on / driving BluePrints own FFR. I also discussed these points with my buddy Ron E, right up the road from FFR. He builds many of these, and has done plenty of BPE installs.

Power steering
-I have never personally had someone install PS and regret it. I HAVE had several tell me how easy the car is to drive, but they hate backing into parking spaces, etc, with manual steering . Have Had more than one wish they did it.

Hydraulic clutch
-This is now a standard item for us on the TKO. Cable clutches seemed to give customers a fit, be it the feel, the adjustment, or overall driving. I never minded them, but had several customers have major feel/adjustment problems, Hydraulic clutches are so much softer no matter what pressure plate is used. One could argue there are a million cars out there with cables and they are fine. But I feel Hydraulic is much nicer. Its easy to install a Hyd TOB initially. It’s a bugger of an afterthought.

Buying a "basic crate engine" vs the "BluePrint FactoryFiveEngines.com" Packages
I'll Pre Phase this with I'm the same way in wanting to 100% feel like i'm getting every cent out of my dollar. SO when a customer starts on the "regular" BluePrint Site, and finds a super stripped down, super basic longblock for 3-4K, and THEN I lead them to the factoryfiveengines.com website, where "FFR, pre assembled, 100% complete engine/trans Packages" run from 7,300 to 23,000..there is some sticker shock
BUT!!!! I assure you if you piece all those components out, buy them separately, add in labor, add in the fact that you're going to source something wrong, that leads to double buying, or aggravation, the COMPLETE package is BY FAR the most practical way to power one of these cars.
My longest, and most carnage filled FFR related calls are the "I don't want the complete package" customer. I Have seen wrong flywheels, wrong distributor gears, mismatched components. etc, do very bad things.
The only thing I hate more than spending money, is spending it twice. I have never had a customer regret a package vs a basic longblock. I Have had TONS of "engine only" guys spend THOUSANDS more in doing it themselves. The Front accessory drives in themselves can be very difficult to install AND getting the right fitment for your chassis causes many customers to buy, return, try again, on front accessories. Again ours come installed, and I promise they fit.
Now i'm in no way talking down about anyone that isn't made of money, or does in fact source some of their own components. Nor am i saying i don't want your business unless you buy "it all" but just want to make it a fair point that we worked specifically with FFR to design these packages so oil pans, intake heights, trans mounts, all fit. Your engine install day will be much happier when everything fits perfectly. Opposed to finding out the hard way you have the wrong oil pan...or your hood won't clear your intake manifold. I 100% admit that early on, specially in coupes, even we had to do some R&D and exchange some intake manifolds. Even us with our resources, and FFR inputs, It took plenty of help from great builders like Ron E, to set us straight on fitments for pans, midshifts, intakes, etc.

Ordering the engine too late in the build
Its totally understandable that both the Car Kit, and the engine are big money. So not everyone orders them at the same time. And of course build speed varies. But I do encourage everyone to order early. Its SO much easier to have the engine there to reference when you're laying our wiring, and plumbing, etc. I've had customers upset they ran the fuel lines up the wrong side, or ran wires to the wrong place, or forget the fact that the package has a hydraulic clutch, and completely do the pedal box and install it, w/o doing a master cylinder. I have NO problems with tacking in a few extra months warranty if it helps put your mind at ease in getting it going early. It'll help us both in the end!

Read the instructions, Tags, literature
You would be amazed how many fairly novice customers completely omit any and all paperwork/instructions that come with the engine.
Hey, I take Newbie tech calls all day long. I'd rather a customer call me to confirm where the oil goes into the engine, than dumping it down the intake runner plug (yes both of those have happened)
BUT! if you order an engine...it comes with paperwork for a reason. I have had customers call and ask where literally every holley sniper EFI wire goes.... The engine ships with both the Sniper EFI instructions, AND a complete "Johnny's hand written guide to installing this engine into your FFR" If questions or clarifications arise, then call me. yes that’s 100% fine!!!! Again..I state, there are no dumb questions! and I’m happy to help. But I've had customers beat me up for 15 minutes about the "engine not starting" to find out the ignition coil isn't even hooked up. Reading the instructions is your friend. We make it as easy as we can, and if you don't know, ask. But you would do very well to read every piece of paper the engine comes with.

Be realistic about your wants, needs, and future wants in regards to power, and features.
As you've seen, there are tons of ways to build these cars, and tons of power choices. we offer everything from a little 240 horse 302/t5 for in the low 7,000's as a package. to a 23,000 427 with EFI.
Does everyone need a 427? No. Will everyone be satisfied with a 302? No. be realistic about what your goals are, and if you'll find yourself wanting "more" in the future. Keep in mind, upgrading from a 302 to something like our 347 has ALOT more benefits than JUST HP. aluminum heads, roller cam, hyd clutch, performance ignition. etc, etc. our engines are all streetable, pump gas, longevity based builds with a 30 month warranty. You don't have to be scared of any of them....they'll be as responsible as your right foot is. Now if you have kids that may drive it...or you know yourself better than we do...or you simply want a "fun driver" Then I would point at something like our 347. which is our most balanced offering in price and HP. for more of a bruiser...go up to one of the 427's. for more of a cruiser, stick with one of our 302 based offerings.

There are no dumb questions
As much as I urge customers to read the paperwork, I'm not saying "figure it out yourself" If you don't know. Call. or Ask. you have a lovely forum here with a ton of experience. If I don't know an answer, I’ll help find you one. Or we'll get with FFR. As simple as adding oil to an engine is, The guy that calls and asks, does NOT put it in the wrong spot...so no one is here to laugh, or patronize anyone else. We've all made bonehead mistakes. You’re likely not the first person running into an issue, or trying something. Great resource here, and many willing to help. As a race car owner and builder, I can tell you that every time I help a buddy work on their car, that project ends up being nicer than mine. That’s because I know how NOT to do it. or what I would have done differently (The exact point of your thread) :)
Hope this helps!




Johnny McDevitt
Director of New Project Development
www.BluePrintEngines.com
www.FactoryFiveEngines.com
308-236-1010 (Direct)
1-800-483-4263 Ex 1010

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Originally Posted by Jim1855

Hyde,

I believe that Mike Forte's mechanical throttle linkage solves many problems. A carb or carb style EFI assumed.
First off it's a clean design, easy to see and adjust.
Adjustment - it's two lever arms on a shaft and you can adjust where on the arms you are pulling/pushing from. This allows you to lengthen or shorten the throw and amount of pedal travel you have to work with. More pedal travel enhances the ability to modulate the throttle action. In simple terms you no longer have an on/off switch for a throttle.
From there you can add a throttle stop so that you can't get full throttle. Full throttle = full torque, full torque = spinning back tires, spinning back tires = big trouble quickly. As you learn the car you can change the stop's position. This is just like training wheels.

Go big, the 427 Windsor is a great choice. Then learn how to drive it.

A Cobra is a dream for many, do it in technicolor.

Jim

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I just installed the Forte linkage on a stack injection with a central bellcrank, so works fine there as well as on carbs and throttle bodies.

I bought my Type 65 Coupe because it has a roof, is more uncommon than Roadsters, and I bought it when the deal was IRS for free. Here I am, 13 years later, still doing body work on a car that I’ve gone WAAAAY overboard trying to replicate CSX2299 as the #5 that won the GT class at Le Mans in 1964. I LOVE the look of the car, LOVE the Webers, and am looking forward to autocrossing it on fresh Hoosiers. That said, if I were to do it over knowing then what I know now, I would have built a Challenge roadster by the book with a crate engine and had someone else do the body & paint work. It would already be done and I’d be working on another project rather than starting year 14 on a project that may never be “done”...

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Originally Posted by GThompson

I bought my Type 65 Coupe because it has a roof, is more uncommon than Roadsters, and I bought it when the deal was IRS for free. Here I am, 13 years later, still doing body work on a car that I’ve gone WAAAAY overboard trying to replicate CSX2299 as the #5 that won the GT class at Le Mans in 1964. I LOVE the look of the car, LOVE the Webers, and am looking forward to autocrossing it on fresh Hoosiers. That said, if I were to do it over knowing then what I know now, I would have built a Challenge roadster by the book with a crate engine and had someone else do the body & paint work. It would already be done and I’d be working on another project rather than starting year 14 on a project that may never be “done”...

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But what an awesome tribute to history! Good for you.