Rear Sway Bar Installation Issue Corrected
Won a minor battle today with my rear sway bar. During initial installation, I couldn't get the heim joints to install on the outside of the sway bar on both sides. I could get one side, but not the other. It turns out I didn't have the sway bar as centered as I should have. I missed that detail.
The fix: I loosened the bolts on the heim joints, as well as the socket head bolts on the mounting clamps. This allowed me to tap the sway bar toward the passenger side just enough to get the heim joints attached per the instructions.
Phew! It feels good to get this corrected. This demonstrates to me the value of stepping away from a particular installation step to clear my head, then come back later with a fresh perspective.
I received some good tips from the forum on how to correct (thanks again JohnK), but it turned out to simply be a case of operator error.
View of corrected sway bar showing heim joints on outside on both sides.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1607217165
Close-up of DS installation now corrected.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1607217179
On an even more minor note, I also riveted and applied silicone to the DS side front footbox panel--Wilwood pedal box version that's packed inside the pedal box. Baby steps! Just like Bill Murray in the movie "What About Bob?".
BTW: that metal piece the front panel attaches to is thick (3/16"). Wow! Broke a new Cobalt drill bit, and put some good wear on a second. Hopefully, not too many other panels require drilling through 3/16" thick metal.
Drivetrain is Here! (Continued)
I also registered the TKO600 with Tremec, and they will sending me a free black resin shift knob. White resin shift knob is also available.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1608515554
How much lumber does it take to crate at Gen 3/TKO600? About this much--not counting the bottom pallet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1608513324
I wasn't planning to worry much about the Gen 3 flying saucer engine cover at this early stage. It so happened Forte did not order the cover with my Gen 3 crate. I was surprised not to see it included, so I asked him where it was. He said it's an add-on, like an accessory I guess (~$125). He then mentioned he can supply the Gen 1 covers, which look much better than the stock Gen 3 cover. Sold! One thing to check off my list. I will probably have the painter add some body color along the parallel grooves. Forte sent me an example picture.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1608513351
Pedal Box Question (Stupid Attack?!?!)
Maybe this is a sign I should close down the garage for the evening?
I'm installing the pedal box, and can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. The rear pedal box bracket is too high. The mounting tabs of the rear bracket are resting on the 3/4" as they should so I can mark the spots to drill. As best I can tell, I have the forward bracket mounted correctly to the Wilwood pedal assembly, and to the front of the footbox--the holes only line up one way. The Wilwood assembly came partially assembled: I haven't changed it--I'm assuming it's correct.
Am I having a stupid attack here, or do I need to mount the Wilwood pedal assembly on the top side of the forward bracket? This would raise the pedal assembly 16 MM, the exact amount the rear bracket sits above. However, the F5 instructions clearly say the forward bracket is mounted to the bottom side of the pedal assembly.
Does anyone have some wisdom for me? (Yes, I know you can't fix stupid! :D).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1609125397
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1609125424
Pedal Box Rear Bracket - Issue Resolved
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Fman
Chris, are you saying the bracket will not align with studs because it is hitting on something not allowing you to drill the mounting hole in the lower channel? A little hard to tell in the pics... It looks like you have the forward section mounted properly.
Travis, thanks for the reference picture. Very helpful!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JohnK
Chris, I think you're on the right track and closer than you think. The pedal assembly looks like it's correctly mounted to the forward bracket, and the forward bracket looks correctly mounted to the firewall. I think the rear bracket looks high because the 3/4" tubes slope down as they go forward, so as that rear bracket moves forward to meet the pedal assembly it should drop into the right position. Here's what mine looks like, in case it helps.
Bingo, John! I just couldn't "see" it last night. I had to loosen the forward mounting bracket, which gave enough wiggle to slide the rear bracket into position. Sure enough, with them together the rear bracket mounting tabs slid right into position, resting on the 3/4" tube so I could mark for drilling. Thanks so much!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
egchewy79
what he said ^^^.
try removing the front bracket from the footbox wall, attaching the rear bracket to the pedal box assembly, and then sliding the entire unit into place.
Hi Egchewy79, thanks for chiming in. Between you and John I was able to get the rear bracket on and drilled. Onward!
In hindsight I think the F5 instructions were basically telling me to do the above. Taking a break and getting the forum's knowledge was just the thing I needed to move forward. Thanks again, Gents!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1609186394
Power Steering and Pedal Box
I installed the KRC power steering pump/pulley and belt. It was a straight forward and pretty easy process--even for me! Had to wiggle/maneuver the pump a bit when installing the belt. The upper weld on the pump (facing engine) didn't allow it to easily rotate into position. Not a big issue and done now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1609461788
Over the years I have saved misc. doo-dads. Why? Who knows. As long as it's relatively small and seems like it could be reusable. Take for instance the various size caps I had in a hardware bin. Used eight of them to cap the various openings on the Coyote. Call it a sickness or genius (can I choose genius? :p), but these will protect until I install the drivetrain. Forte used duct tape on many of these, including the eight exhaust ports. I know what happens if you leave duct tape in place too long, so I removed it and stuffed in clean paper towels (into the exhaust ports).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1609461818
Followed the F5 instructions to assemble the lower steering shaft and knuckles.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1609461840
Installed flange bearing on the inside of the footbox per recommendation of forum for adjustability. Like others who've done this, I had to shave flat the top portion of the flange bearing to provide clearance for the lower right mounting hole of the pedal box rear bracket. Bench grinder was just the ticket.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1609461894
No shims required beneath the pillow block on my setup. I have about 3/16" clearance between the shaft and 2" square tube. The clearance is a bit blurry, but I think you can get the idea.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1609463051
And finally, the pedal box is in for the final time (hopefully). I guessed on the amount to thread in the 90 deg. brake line adapters. There's still a couple threads showing, but I didn't want to chance it by threading in too far. Don't look too closely at the rattle can paint job on the forward and rear brackets. Oof! Been a long time since I've used an aerosol can, and boy does it show. (Thanks again for the reminder to coat these, egchewy79). Oh well, I think this area will be out of site in the end.
Thanks again to JohnK, Fman, and egchewy79 for helping me figure out the rear pedal box bracket.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1609462019
Nothing new or too exciting to show, but I'm having a blast!
Gen 1 Coyote Cover on a Gen 3?
Here is a view of the Forte bend shift handle in combination with the rear cover/handle swapped 180 deg. (moves the handle forward ~2.75"). This is a view of it in the Neutral gear position. If I want it another inch or so forward, I will copy Wareaglescott and add an extension piece at the bottom (see his build, post #140). Obviously, the "right" way would be to complete the TKO600 mid-shift modification, but I think his workaround will be as effective, and much easier/cheaper. Of course, I won't know for certain until I'm actually driving it. FWIW, in case this is helpful to anyone.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1609522786
I mentioned before I stumbled upon an engine cover solution from Forte that greatly improves (IMHO) the Gen 3 flying saucer look. I'm a long ways away from worrying about eye candy, but this was an obvious solution that works for me, so I jumped on it. Again, since I would have had to buy the Gen 3 cover anyway (~$125), for a few extra bucks I bought Forte's modified version of a Gen 1 cover. It even has shiny plastic-chromie-looking eye candy. Ooooooh! :)
He uses the same OEM rubber grommet-like base that pops into the four holes on top of the motor. These are what the Gen 3 cover would normally pop into, and held in place as a friction fit. The one on the bottom is one I pulled from the motor to show they are the same. He supplies the aluminum spacer, fender washer, and wing nut to secure the cover to the same four holes. Pretty clever, if you ask me!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1609523098
Here you can see the four rubber "grommets" (I'm not sure of the correct term) as they come from Ford. The Gen 3 cover pops right into these.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1609523078
Here you can see one removed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1609523003
Now with the Forte modified grommets installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1609523173
Side view of the same, and with the aluminum provided spacers in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1609523192
Gen 1 Coyote Cover on a Gen 3? (continued)
Good Customer Service is Rare but Appreciated!
I was just chatting with my brother-in-law recently about how rare it is to find good customer service nowadays. Well, I was pleasantly surprised yesterday when I called McMaster-Carr to return a couple things. An actual human being answered the phone within two rings. I asked about their return process, because I ordered the wrong thread count on the hardware for the Kleiner quick jack mod. He offered to credit me for the couplers and socket head bolts (don't bother to return the wrong ones), and said the replacements will arrive Thursday this week. Wow! He made it easy, and it was done in two minutes. I'm impressed! I so appreciate good customer service. I will likely be a McMaster-Carr customer for life--and I of course like their hardware as well. Thanks to Edwardb for the tip on these guys!
I've also experienced good customer service from Factory Five, Forte, and Russ Thompson. Thanks vendors!
Coyote Accel Pedal Mounting Question
Here's another one I must be looking at from the wrong angle. I'm trying to mock up the Coyote accelerator pedal, but scratching my head as to why the bracket that attaches to the frame seems like the upper portion should have been bent the other way. If it were, then it seems everything (the mounting holes, clearance for the 3/4"' tube, and even the slight angle of the lowest mounting hole/tab is bent the correct direction) would line up perfectly. Can someone please straighten me out on this one?
Picture of bracket as installed in the F5 instruction manual:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1610330696
Next to the DBW Coyote pedal the bracket's mounting holes are on the wrong side of the bracket. What am I missing?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1610329788
Fuel Tank, Filter, and Firewall
Making some progress....baby steps.
Fuel tank is installed. A few things I had to work through:
- I left all of the strap hardware loose for now.
- I had to "adjust" the front mount 3/4" tubes between 1/8" to 1/4" to keep them away from the sides of the tank. Now they are flush with the horizontal lip around the perimeter.
- Discovered the 3/8" black socket head bolt would not slide into the rear strap openings. I wasn't interested in hogging out the painted openings with a drill, file, or other means (not looking to expose metal), so off to the hardware store for 5/16" x 2" SS bolts.
- Following recommendation of this forum I picked up the Ford OEM fuel neck gasket, as many have found the kit supplied gasket leaks: F4ZZ-9072-DA, ~$30 on Amazon. Easy to do now. See third picture below.
- I liked Edwardb's approach of verifying the fuel sender operation now (before installation). Measured 19 ohms(empty) and ranges up to max of 162 ohms (full).
- The ubiquitous Kleiner rear quick jack mod: I finally got the right hardware. I wanted 7/16"-14 to match the hardware from the kit. I'm assuming I will still use the rest of the kit supplied hardware? Attempted to follow Edwardb by measuring the vertical and horizontal distances between the rear quick jack holes, so the couplers will line up when the time comes. It's a great idea, no doubt, but I couldn't figure out how to easily transfer my measurements to the couplers without a template. So, I centered each in its respective hole, and hope (naively) they are reasonably close once the body goes on.
I thought I could be clever and avoid getting the 2.5" x 3/8" socket head bolts for the front tank straps. Nope. The 2" versions that come with the kit are just too short to get the nut threaded (at least for me). It was a bona-fide saga, and cost me some time. Oh well. Off to the hardware store...again.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1610421980
Fuel tank is in (temporarily until I install the Russ Thompson drop box).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1610421957
Ford OEM gasket is on the left. Kit supplied gasket on the right.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1610423449
Verified with F5 the fuel flow of the kit supplied fuel filter is sufficient for the Gen 3 Coyote. They say it's fine. I installed it in what seems to be a popular location. It should provide ease of access in case of future maintenance.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1610421971
Firewall:
- Made my first visit to my local metal supplier, and purchased a 48" x 16" scrap piece of 0.090 aluminum for $30. I wanted a more robust firewall. Cut it out using my jigsaw and a 12 TPI blade. Wow! This thing is WAY more stout than the 0.040 that came with the kit. I don't think it needs the vertical support bracket treatment many give the 0.040 firewall, but I may attempt to make one anyway just to see if I can make a bracket. Something I'm excited to try.
- As I mentioned previously I'm not going to PC my panels. I actually like the look of the brushed aluminum (in what little areas it can be seen), and this is an area I can save a few shekels without losing any functionality. The first I saw of this was Straversi's build--thanks, Steve! I have PLENTY of other areas to upgrade and spend my shekels. Used the ScotchBrite and Dupli-Color Clear Ceramic engine enamel combination on the front side of the firewall (thanks for the idea, GTBradley!). It's hard to tell it's been treated in this picture. It has some streaks/stripes. Hopefully, I'll do better on my next one. I don't think much of this one can be seen after the Coyote and body are in place, so a good one on which to cut my teeth.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1610423532
Gee whiz! I didn't intend to have such a lengthy post here, as I really haven't done much.
What to do with F5 Stickers?
I'm not much of a sticker guy, but found a good home for one of my F5 stickers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1610683541
It may or may not see ice with frequent pours of Bulleit. :cool: The insulated cup doesn't sweat. Handy. Only after garage time is over in the evenings, of course. ;) It becomes a good conversation starter when friends and family are over: "Hey, want to check out my garage"?
Now, back to building...
