“I had to have some stitches in my hand...”
It’s a full contact sport sometimes! I had a Irwin clamp punch me in the nose yesterday, ended up with blood all over me. My wife was impressed ��
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“I had to have some stitches in my hand...”
It’s a full contact sport sometimes! I had a Irwin clamp punch me in the nose yesterday, ended up with blood all over me. My wife was impressed ��
This Attachment 108352 can be a little intimidating! If you look at all those wires it can but stay focused and work on one wire at a time and before you know it it's done. Hopefully sometime today. Most of the wiring is completed. I still have to work out hooking up the Holly Sniper. It's a bit confusing with the pink and the yellow wires. Seams to me they both go to Accessory 12 V. Anybody have one that's hooked up and running to give some advice?
UPDATE: I found this link to be helpful https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ght=sniper+fan
Update: I have a Odyssey Extreme PC925. I think it's one of the recommended batteries. It comes with out battery posts. The wiring harness comes with battery wires terminated for .. wait for it .. posts. I went to the local Napa store and bought screw in posts only to find out the battery is set up for 6 mm screws not your standard. So I Googled the battery only to find out there is an accessory pack for installing posts on the battery. Part number 3217-0006. They are on order but delivery isn't until Monday. Big disappointment. So now I'm trying to scrounge a battery from my son. I really want to start this thing by this week end.
Floor done. After putting down the adhesive and covering it with the top aluminum I decided to step on it to make good contact. Well it came up through the holes for the rivets and left poker dots all over it. :) I was able to clean it up with a little acetone.
Had to revisit the 700R4 transmission mount again. It started at the passenger side exhaust pipe to header clearance. They just would not meet. I contacted FFR tec. and they asked what trans. I was using and take a picture of the trans mount. I had received the mounting plate from FFR but the bolts that went into the trans. interfered with the anodized plate on the Ford mount. I put spacers to clear the bolt heads. Well that put the trans. at an angle that made the exhaust not mate to the header. They said to just order a GM trans. mount and get rid of the plate and Ford mount. Well parts on order again.
I finally finished the cooling lines for the trans. to the radiator. On the second line I duplicated my first line but when I made the 90 deg. bend to the other side of the radiator I kinked the line. Cut that piece off, went to Napa for a union fitting and added the last piece. Clamped it to the frame and said good riddens to the line bending.
I tried to put the drive shaft in but it hits the floor. Called it a night. I'll look at it in the morning. Enough grief for one day.
Today I was putting the fluids in and checking for leaks. My battery posts came in so I hooked up the Sniper and gave it a try. Well I just tried to upload the video of my initial start but I couldn't get it to upload. Believe me it started right up. I'll post the video as soon as I figure it out.
It didn't start without having a few problems. I followed the suggestions from the forum and wired the Sniper. I cut into the harness to run the fuel pump. It is a little different than what is in the book. Just cut the brown wire and attach the blue wire from the Sniper to the outside brown wire like this Attachment 108535.
I have a wiring error on the harness with the plug that goes to the rear harness. Look here Attachment 108536 See the black and purple wires? They are reversed. So the fuel gauge and pump didn't have a ground return. I just hooked up a temporary ground for them so I could run the engine. Does anybody know how to extract the pins from this plug?
Now that I have the engine running I better clean up the rest of the wiring. It's a shame I can't Go-kart it yet. My steering wheel and front springs are on back order. I think I already mentioned that.
Weatherpack pins are like Chinese finger cuffs. You have to collapse the wings to get them to unclip. There’s actually a tool for it. The other option is to try and get something over top to set the pins down so you can pull it out.
This week it seams I didn't accomplish much but I was busy doing it. The wiring error I mentioned in previous post was fixed when I ordered a tool from Amazon to get the pins out of the plug. Attachment 108869 It was only $10 and I hope I don't need to use it again. I also relocated the fuel pump and filters to below the fuel tank. Attachment 108870.
I had trouble with the Lokar shifter. The rod appeared to be short and the company sent me a longer one. I am not fully satisfied with the shifting. It's very hard and the button in the shifter doesn't pop up all the time. I will probably need to re adjust it again. Attachment 108871
I'm still having problems with the passenger side exhaust hitting the underside of the floor. I have tried many ways to mount it and it's now pressed firmly against the floor and the frame rail. That will also need adjusting.
My son came over to give me a hand and we checked the timing. It was off a few degrees. I had to remove the distributor to get the motor in the frame. We also figured out the gas pedal linkage and the TV cable from the transmission.
I checked again with FFR about my back ordered front springs and steering wheel. They said this week or next. This week is over so I hope it is next week. If not I'll call Dave Smith and ask him why he is selling cars without these parts. I ordered my car 1/23/19. I wonder if anybody with chassis number higher then 1118 received their kit with the front springs and steering wheel?
I feel your pain on the exhaust install. I am kit #1095 with SBC 350 and tremac 5 speed. I had So much trouble with the pipes from header to muffler, from muffler back was easy peasy. From driver to passenger side on my install the "S" pipes were the same, so swapping them side to side made No Difference. Driver side was acceptable but passenger side angled up and hit floor like yours are doing. MY FIX,,,, after many phone calls to F5, they said all the tolerances on All the parts were working against me. Maybe so but I ended up cutting a PIE wedge cut at one of the mount flanges to give me the correct angle, then had a local shop TIG weld the pipe back up. Made a huge difference. I ALSO put BOTH "S" pipes from each side and put them into an arbor press to "flatten" them out a bit where they go through the frame. That helped also. The theory was,,, volume in pipe would not decrease by flattening it,,, F5 agreed. I had a lot anxiety doing this,,, I figured I was doing something wrong and the kit should just bolt up. Anyway, it worked,,, Good luck on yours....
OnlyAndy
I think the "PIE" thing is what I'll end up doing tomorrow. I am so fed up with this problem, I need to move on. It sounds like you have a Gen 1 build but the idea is the same. I posted this on Facebook and every one there ended up doing the same thing.
Thanks
I spent another day and a half trying to get everything aligned up for the exhaust pipes. Motor mounts, headers, etc. Still no joy. I don't have the skill or equipment to cut a pie in the pipes. I feel, if I did cut a pie and had a shop weld it up it might not quite work and need another pie cut and trip to the shop for welding. I decided to hang the mufflers and exit tail pipes in their position, closest to where they almost fit those shorty pipes and bring it to a muffler shop and have them finish it. So I have moved on and am installing the aluminum pieces and getting it ready for the body. Hopefully, I can get the body on and receive my missing parts from FFR this week end.
I feel your pain. I had the same problem with the LS. It took two trips to the welder to get it right. I made the cuts with a port a band but I think it could be done carefully with a hacksaw.Quote:
Originally Posted by colsen23153
You might want to invest in an inexpensive Harbor Freight 4 1/2" grinder and some of their thin metal cutting disks. You can easily cut stainless, steel, fiberglass you name it.
Like many of you I bought the ODYSSEY Extreme Series Battery PC925 that was suggested. Attachment 109268 It is a smaller than normal batteries and the battery hold down bracket doesn't fit. It's made for the common batteries. I did a look up for a battery holder for this battery and was shocked to see the cost. But I also saw that the battery could be mounted on its side. So with a little blacksmith work I turned this Attachment 109269 into this. Attachment 109270 Now I can mount my battery on the back shelf in the trunk for $0. Attachment 109271
Today with the help of two of my grandchildren I was able to get the body on the frame. A problem came up with the front lower part of the body hitting the frame. In these pictures Attachment 109373 Attachment 109374 you can see just below a cut to the body to clear a weld joint the piece still continues down and hits the frame where the lower firewall meet. I have a message in to FFR to see what has to happen there.
But as you can see the body is on. Attachment 109375 Attachment 109376 Attachment 109377
I received a notice that I was getting some parts from FFR today and I was hoping for the best. No the steering wheel and coil over springs didn't come in. Just a light switch which they had previously sent me. Well I found some steering wheels on ebay that would work and I am ordering one. I don't know what I will do with it when my steering wheel comes in. Later on that. For the coil overs I am getting 3" PVC and cutting about a 7" length off and rebuilding the front shocks with that. If it holds up I will go-kart it like that.
It is a total shame that FFR can't get their act together!
Updates as they happen. Next week should be a fun week. ;)
Which coil over springs are you missing? I have some extras, can't remember if it is 2 or all 4, will have a look when I head out to the garage in a few minutes. Weird thing with being in Canada - they have "completion" kits that you order from Ryan and in some areas you end up with duplicates if you order upgrade options - I got some 3 link rear end parts even though I ordered the IRS, got some standard springs and shocks even though I ordered the upgraded double adjustable.....
Update: I have 2 extra springs #300, 2 standard shocks, along with the associated sleeves etc. Suspect they are for the rear but not sure. They're yours if it will help.
I had to trim down that edge so it didn’t hold the body out of position. Just so that flange didn’t touch anything. All part of the fun!!
Just trial fit the Gen 1 body on the frame and it has the same issue, will have to trim down...Quote:
Originally Posted by peterh226
Thanks for the offer. The ones I am looking for are #400. Look at my next post and see what I'm using instead. If I don't get my springs in the next two weeks I'll take you up on your offer. CliffQuote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Now that I have the body on the car I need it to be a roller. I'm not doing fiberglass work in my attached garage. That will spell disaster with the wife. I have been thinking of this for a few days and this afternoon I went to Lowe's. I bought a 2 foot length of 3" PVC pipe. I cut two 7" sections out of it and did this> Attachment 109385
I put the tires on and now I have a roller. No steering wheel on it yet but I ordered one from Ebay and I should have it by Wednesday. I can then drive it out back and work on it. I also can take it to the muffler shop and get that work done. I'm getting there by hook or by crook. :)
Attachment 109386 Attachment 109387
I was thinking I had to do that but you know... If you cut something off you can't put it back. :) I'll do that also.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterh226
I made a frame out of steel tube and some 6” casters and roll it out on the driveway for all sanding. The vacuum the batuff up and blow it out into the yard. Keeps the garage clean. Next is to build a spray booth for primer and paint. The slick sand I can just do in the driveway as well.
[QUOTE=colsen23153;371853]
Attachment 109386
I like that open/removable dash opening, wish the Gen 1 had it. I'm seriously thinking about cutting mine and then finding a metal sheet to mount the gauges in.
I feel your pain on the collectors to the S pipe connection. If I used the supplied FF exhaust manifold the alignment probably would have been OK. I think I spent the better part of a week making sure the cut angles and measurements were OK before I tacked parts together.
I have a question on the electric steering option. The instructions say to connect the green wire to switched B+. The problem is I don't see a green wire. I have heavy red/black which go to the battery, a white wire with a spade connector (which the instructions say isn't needed except for trouble shooting) and the blue wire. I tried touching the blue wire to B+ but the LED doesn't come on and is still hard to steer. There is a LED but it doesn't light. Any suggestions?
Wires going in to control box >Attachment 109464
Wires coming out >Attachment 109465
Is that the control box that came with the electric steering from FF?
There's a green wire in your first pic, where does the other end of the green wire go? Is it taped up?
My box came from Electric-Steer. It only has 2 connectors on it. One has the green wire.
Attachment 109466
That is the control box that came from FFR.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
My control box came with 4 plugs. Two from the motor (with a green wire, my first picture) and two out with red/black and white, blue & brown. Open your box up and check your plugs. Do they match what I have?
Your box is much different than mine.
My control box only has 3 sockets on it. It's a UniSteer/Electra-Steer kit, p/n 8051500.
One connector for the steering motor, one for the steering position encoder, and another with 8 wires.
The 8 wire connector has 2 for battery connection, red & black
Orange for an LED (so you know it's active)
Green for Key on and to the other side of the LED
White and Purple wires for some code reader interface we don't use.
Blue & yellow wires that we don't use. I asked Unisteer what they were for, they said they had no idea.
Yes I have the "new" box with 4 plugs. I was looking at the old instructions in the PDF's. In the new manual it says to connect the white wire to the switched B+Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
All is good and working. Thanks for your help. Cliff
Update: In my defence, it was about 5 weeks ago that I put the steering option in and it said to wait until you put in the wiring harness in to hook it up. I was so far ahead in the manual that I didn't reference back to that page and instead looked at the pdf instructions that were wrong for this model. My error. It will never happen again. ;) :)
PM sentQuote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
I now have a steering wheel. A bit small from Ebay. Finished putting the battery in the trunk. Working on e-brake cables. More on that after I get them back from the welder (my son).
Attachment 109640
Did anyone raise the seat? I have a slider but it is only one inch high. I'm thinking of between 2 and 4 inches.
I raised the bottom of the seat frame 6" off the floor. Much easier to see the right front corner of the car now.
I think I'll still have ar least 2" above my head to the top (it's not on yet)
Every time I think I am getting myself close to Go-Karting this thing some thing comes up. This time it was the drive shaft. I received a aluminum spacer with the kit that fits my rear output shaft perfectly except that the hole pattern is different 3" vs 2.5". If I put just the drive shaft on it bolts to the rear but there is only 1" that fits inside the output shaft of the transmission (700 R4). I do not like that and will not drive it that way. I emailed FFR and they had me measure the drive shaft. They measure from the end flange beginning to the shoulder of the U joint to the part that goes into the transmission. Yellow line. I came up with 34".
Attachment 109668 Attachment 109669
They asked what they sent me and it was part # 34880 35" drive shaft. They said the spacer that was sent to me was for a different rear and was not needed. They are sending me a new drive shaft and want the one I have returned. Well that is good but they don't have the correct shaft in stock and it's back ordered for a few (2) weeks. A story I have heard many times before.
So I bought a steering wheel off of Ebay and used PVC pipe for my front coil overs and now I'm going to find some way to get the spacer drilled for the correct bolt pattern for the drive shaft. They do sell the spacers for $54 but I'll try to get this spacer drilled first. A person from Canada is sending me 300# springs to replace the PVC pipe.
I think all of these delays has put me back 4 weeks or more. I wounder what else is missing or the wrong part.
They stated in the brochure that building this car is an enjoyable adventure. They got the last part correct.
It’s unfortunate that they oversell the ease. It’s still building a car from raw components. My gen 1 cobra was a nightmare relatively speaking, but my skill set and their product has improved over the years. It’s definitely not legos. The way I explained it to my kid, is that anyone can build a car. The skills can be learned. What hard is the problem-solving.
I found it a bit frustrating at first as well. There are many add-ons I am putting on the car, tools to be had, supplies,... All require figuring out, ordering and picking up - most of the stuff is only available in the US or costs twice as much to have delivered in Canada. So many delays. I had to take a deep breath, remind myself it isn't a race, and find other things to work on in parallel.
Your springs are on the way...
Steve
I'm back with the transmission mount. It actually is the fact that the shorty pipes are not aligning with the flange with the "S" pipe and mufflers. There isn't enough clearance between the flange on the shorty pipe and the floor. FFR says that what they sent for a small block Chevy with a 700 R4 trans will work with the exhaust system. So I'm looking for things that aren't just right. I made sure that the engine mounting is all the way down. It is now. The transmission is not in perfect incidence with the frame floor. I leveled the car so the floor is as close to zero incidence as I could get it but when I move the incidence meter to the pan on the transmission it's off by a few degrees up. So I am trying with all combinations of transmission mounts (Ford from FFR, Spacer plate from FFR and stock GM) and spacers to get it to zero. It is now zero incidence with the floor. I am wondering how others have made out with the alignment of exhaust to muffler. A few have suggested cutting a "PIE" slice and weld it back.
Has anyone successfully installed this engine/trans combo to the exhaust without problems?
Thanks,
Cliff
Update: I put the "S" pipe on the muffler and with the help of my son, we went under the car just to see how far off the alignment between the "S" pipe and the shorty pipe from the header with the muffler up against the bottom of the floor.
Attachment 109931
It's not even close. A "pie" cut is not going to fix that. I contacted FFR to see what they think. I have not heard from them yet. It looks like the shorty pipe from the header is for the Gen 1 chassis. Where it fits the muffler between the floor members.
Update: I raised the "S" pipe up and raised the motor 1/4" by reversing the triangle motor mounting plates that attach to the frame. It just fits now without any cutting. I'm not 100% satisfied with this because the transmission tail shaft is almost on the floor. More updates after I get the correct driveshaft from FFR.
My axle came with the calipers behind the axle. I needed brake cables but nothing I found would fit. So I Googled and found this video that shows how to shorten the parking brake cable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeyaFW1CFPY
Good information on how to do it. I found brake cables long enough and with the proper ends for a Cobra from AutoZone . Part # C2491
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...2784_4777_6134
I ordered two, measured both sides as they are not the same. Cut the end away from the caliper. Pulled the inner cable back. Cut the outer to length. Cut the end off the piece I just cut off that goes into the bracket. Got that piece tack welded to the outer sheathing. Attachment 110006Measured again to mark where the cable stop needs to be. Went to Lowes and bought #0656959 Ferrule & stop kit. Went to West Marine and the guy there crimped them on the cable ends. Installed fabricated emergency brake cables. Job done.
Cliff
Here are some additional pictures of my progress over the last week.
Attachment 110491 Attachment 110492 Attachment 110493 Attachment 110494
The adapter plate that came from FFR doesn't fit. I had to cut away on the Ford trans mount to clear the bolts that go into the trans.
I now have the body off so I can do some trimming. With the body off I took the car off the jack stands and wow! It has been a long time since I had it on the ground. It's really low.
Now the fun begins with body work. I already see some weld joints that need to be shaved for the body to conform to the frame. Pictures next week after I make some major progress.
I have not started the build process yet (ship date in a few weeks....), so forgive my ignorance. I am truly perplexed by the last picture in the series you posted today. It looks like your finger is touching the tail of the tranny, but above the floor pan. Please tell me that is some kind of optical illusion! Can you explain that pic please?
That's correct Tim, tail of tranny and drive shaft are above the level of the floor - there is a "transmission and drive shaft hump" just like most front engine rear wheel drive vehicles. Have a look at the first pic of post 89 and the first pic of post 90 in my build thread to put things in context.... https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ndercoat/page3Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim_Dust
Steve
Thanks Steve. I have seen pictures of the "hump" many times, but this one, explicitly with his finger touching the tail of the transmission, made me realize how tough it must be to replace that rear seal!Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
I have been working on this for over three weeks, maybe more. It all started when I mounted my engine & transmission with the mount for the transmission. The car comes with a Ford universal mount. I have a small block Chevrolet with a 700 R4 transmission. FFR said they have an adapter to mate that mount with my transmission. That doesn't work without a lot of modification as the bolt heads for the bolts for the transmission interfere with the Ford mount. After modifying the Ford mount I tried to get the exhaust on. It would not mate up. FFR tech said to get a 2 degree down incidence with the transmission. I couldn't do that in any combination of mounts (GM included) so I took a suggestion from someone on Facebook to raise the engine 1/4" by reversing the mounting plates that attach to the frame. I got about 5 degree incidence and the exhaust bolted up but just barely. The problem was that the tail shaft of the transmission was almost hitting the floor.
Attachment 110561
Today I went about attaching the drive shaft. Here is a picture of that.
Attachment 110562
As you can see there is not enough room for the universal joint.
I have been thinking all along that Factory Five Racing would not sell me something that would not fit. I was going to add something here but it was not appropriate.
What I am going to do now is to Put the engine mounting plates back to the original position. Another reason for doing this is that my Blue Print Engine needs a low profile air cleaner to fit under the stock hood. I am putting the GM transmission mount back on, which gave me more tail shaft clearance. Take the shorty pipes off from the headers and cut a pie into them to mate up to the exhaust.
Be sure to set your drive line angle before you do any cutting on the exhaust. I used a GM transmission mount from Summit and had to shim it about 1 1/4 inches (aluminum 1/4" shims) to achieve the proper angle.Quote:
Originally Posted by colsen23153