Be sure to flatten out the flange at the front of the tank where it will meet the two square legs with the plastic caps on the chassis. Wiring, etc. remains accessible with the tank installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Jeff
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Be sure to flatten out the flange at the front of the tank where it will meet the two square legs with the plastic caps on the chassis. Wiring, etc. remains accessible with the tank installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Jeff
I plan to install the rear wiring harness before installing the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Last night I did not get home from work until about 6pm, normally home by 4pm. So I did not get to do anything except lay out all of the parts for the fuel tank install that I did tonight. That was very straight forward went pretty smooth. I do have a hint if you are doing this by yourself, tape the tank straps up out of the way with some painters tape so that you can slide the tank under on your floor jack with out fighting with the dangling straps. Worked well for me, could for you as well. I also sanded the fill tube and shot a couple coats of clear on it to help deter rust and also the fill tube retainer, I actually dipped it in my POR15 and let is drip dry over night.
Attachment 92739 Attachment 92740
One other thing that I did was to open up the Vent Check Valve tube. I know there are large opening ones out there, but I think that by opening the FF provided one I should be ok. It was very simple and only required drilling the brass fitting from both directions. I opened it up just as far as I felt I should try.
Attachment 92741 Attachment 92742
Now, fast forward 20 hours and I was at in by 4:30 today... I was able to completely assemble the fuel tank and get it up and the drivers side strap tightened and the PS just a couple threads up as the build manual states to leave it loose for sheet metal work later.
Attachment 92743
Then, as soon as I finished with the fuel tank, the next step in the build manual is the PS foot box. NOW, here is where the fun started for me. Since none of the front half sheet metal was installed from FF and the shipping team, I had to find and figure out which panel is which and figure out what side goes on top. These are the white powder coated 20th Aniv panels so I laid them all out on the floor under the body and then using a combination of the build manual photos as well as a complete sheet metal "map" I found, I was able to start figuring out whats what.
Attachment 92744 Attachment 92745 Attachment 92746 Attachment 92747
The PS Foot Box assembly has started. Now, it's well past my bed time. I'm looking forward to a 3 day weekend, Fri - Sun and plan to get about 27-30 hours of time in on the build... I'm excited to see what's next...
Today I was able to get a good 8 straight hours of work completed on the build. All of it revolved around the use of a drill, clekos, sealer, vacuum, and a rivet gun... I completed the passenger side foot box, the PS floor, the driver's side floor and inside & bottom of the DS Foot Box. That's it... yup, took me about 7 total working hours. Had to take a break for some pizza...
Only little problem I had is that the build manual I have did not tell me to install the PS Foot Box Bottom, ever... It should have gone on before the sides so I had a little fun getting it in after having all ready installed the sides and PS floor. It's all good, came out nice. And as far as fitment goes, I only had to do a minor adjustment on one panel on the DS for a weld. It was all ready notched out for it, just not enough. Simple fix and all is good...
I also ordered the battery box from FFMetal so I hope to have it in time to work on the trunk. I'm trying to find a trunk kit to lower the trunk bottom and have tried to contact Russ Thompson, no luck as of yet.
Tomorrow the manual has me starting on the back of the cabin.
QUESTION: other than FFMetal and Russ Thompson, are there any other reputable suppliers of sheet metal mods for the MK4? I'm looking for a drop trunk mod, perhaps a storage box between the seat backs. Also just wanting to see what else is out there that I could consider.
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Looks good, but don't get too carried away with the aluminum right now. Keeping it bare was a great advantage for installing brake lines, fuel lines, electrical, pinion angle, driveshaft, etc.
I'd also advise that you don't fasten on the back wall until the trunk deck aluminum is installed. If you place that wall on there, you won't be able to reach the rivets for the trunk floor, and drilling the holes for the roll bar could be a little more difficult.
John Sitton did a good right up on his trunk expansion project found HERE
The pass through is easy to fabricate. It's just an aluminum wall set back about 8 inches from the back of the cabin. I cut mine out with a 6" hole saw on the ends, and a skill saw to finish the horizontals. I can come by sometime and you can check it out if you want. I don't use it as much as I thought I would.
I was "talking" to Russ this evening (email). I've had my steering hub over to him for the turn signal mods, and ordered his dropped trunk kit at the same time (a few weeks ago). He was "out of country" for awhile on business, and is catching up on orders/emails. He'll get back to you - be patient.
I just finished installing/fitting the "Breeze" trunk divider/cubby-hole kit tonight. I've only done the trunk compartment panel - haven't cut the rear cockpit wall yet. I've got too many ideas kicking around for what to do on a possible access door/hatch for the compartment (other than a hole).
Thanks Dad... I was actually thinking of stopping on the panels for now and starting on all of the wiring and tubing because it seems like it will be much easier. I'm just thinking that if I do that, I may put something in the way of where a panel is suppose to go. I'm sure I can figure it out. And you are always welcome. I'll be in the garage for the full day Sat/Sun almost always.Quote:
Originally Posted by DadofThree
Sounds good Fixit, I'll check out the Breeze and hope to hear from Russ soon!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixit
This weekend I was fortunate enough to get to work most of Fri and all of Sat/Sun on the build. While I don't have a lot to list, I did get a lot completed. So on Friday I worked on the Fuel system. Everything from the tank to the firewall. While I'm not 100% sure, I believe the intake line to the carburetor is on the drivers side, so that is what I planned for. I figured I can always shorten it up if needed.
I mounted the FF provided filter just in front of the fuel tank on the PS. I liked this location because it appears that I will be able to reach straight up from below, just in front of the IRS to change it should I need. I also trimmed the large hose type clamp that holds the filter to the bracket. Cleaned it up with a grinder and I think it came out pretty nice.
Attachment 92940 Attachment 92941
Next I took the hard vinyl line (provide by FF) and sliced it on the sides and removed the fitting that go onto the tank pickup and into the filter and replaced the vinyl with normal fuel line. Was able to make for a nice clean install doing it this way.
Attachment 92942 Attachment 92943
Then I ran the hard line from the filter out side (via short rubber hose) down the main frame and along the outside of the 4" tube. Stopped just under the drivers seat where I mounted my electric fuel pump. Then continued on to the front. Up into the engine compartment, up along the PS frame, across the trans tunnel and terminated it there for now. I learned that it is easiest to use a piece of coat hanger wire to pre-shape the bends and such and then using that model, start the tube bending. Overall I'm happy with what I completed, and I guess as they say that is what matters...
Attachment 92944 Attachment 92945 Attachment 92946 Attachment 92947 Attachment 92948
I'm also taking the time to paint all of my fuel and brake lines with a color-match paint that is very close to the color of the gray powder coat of the 20th Anniversary chassis. (I have looked everywhere for the rustoleum wheel paint in graphite that EdwardB found with no luck) This stuff I have is very close.
On Saturday while installing the brake reservoir I discovered that the white powder coated pedal box front plate was actually the one for a donor car pedal box. Well, I'm not going to take that thing out so I figured a way to make it all work and look good. IMO. I fabricated a small plate that I put between the white powder coated panel and the solid steel pedal box front. I was planning to mount the FF provided Chrome Brake Fluid Reservoir there anyway and this actually allowed me to put it where I wanted. (couldn't do to the hole that is there for the donor car pedal box.) So, found some primer/top coat flat white that matched very well, taped it all of and painted the areas that were not covered with the powder coated panel. Ran the reservoir to master cylinders tubing (FF provide Red Color) I cleaned the tubing with acetone and it took all of the lettering off of it and cleaned the look up pretty good. All in all the Reservoir install came out pretty nice IMO.
Attachment 92949 Attachment 92950 Attachment 92951
Next I tackled the hard lines. I only did the front lines today. Mounted the flex lines, brackets and bent and installed the hard lines from the .75" M/C down the frame rail to just next to the DS wheel, "T" off and followed the frame rails down, around and over to the PS. I was able to follow the frame pretty close and I believe it should be safely out of the way of the engine when that is installed.
Attachment 92952 Attachment 92953 Attachment 92954 Attachment 92955 Attachment 92956
Hey Carl,
You aren't wasting any time getting that car together. One caution for you on your fuel pump. Be super careful when drilling to mount your seats that you don't drill into the pump or fuel lines.
Dave
The other night I woke up about 3:30am and couldn't sleep. So what you say. Well I did not remember it, but I had ordered for about $8.00 the vent tube for the IRS differential. Fast forward 3 days and the part arrived. I had no idea what it was until I opened it and remembered that I had ordered it. It is a vinyl tube that is custom fit to the mustang. I used a heat gun and softened it up a bit and straightened it. I also was able to remove the vent end, and cut the vinyl a little shorter and installed the tube up along one of the angled frame rails. Nice, simple and clean install.
Attachment 92957 Attachment 92958 Attachment 92959
So I was getting all the parts set up to run the E-Brake cable and start that install. Only problem, no E-Brake cable. In fact it is not even listed on the inventory lists. I have all the hardware, but no cable. What a bummer, another item I will have to try and get FF to help me with. They have been great so far concedering that I'm actually the 2nd owner of this kit.
And next, I was going to install the adapter plate to the pinion shaft. Wrong one. It will not fit. I read something about two different adapter plates, one for an Automatic Trans Vehicle and one for a Manual Trans Vehicle. I guess I got the other one.
Either way, I've emailed FF Dave B and hopefully he will be able to rescue me...
Attachment 92962 Attachment 92963
So that concluded the week... This coming week I plan to tackle the rear brake hard lines, start putting in the wiring harness. I've also ordered the Trunk Battery Box, Lowered Trunk Floor as well as the E-Power Steering system. I should also be getting some information about the shipment of my Eng/Trans from BluePrint.
You really shouldn't do that. The filter should be after the pump, not before, so that fuel is being pushed through under positive pressure not drawn through by negative pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Perhaps it was different with the Anniversary cars but all of the complete kits that I have built did not include parking brake cables.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I am wondering if the reason they had the fuel pump mounted there was because many applications have the fuel pump in the tank. This pump and the required warranty has the small pre-filter going into the pump,. I suppose I will have to look into this a little bit closer. It would not be a very difficult procedure to relocate the filter, but I really like the clean Install that I have. Thanks again I’ll look into it. As far as the brake cable goes that is awfully odd, they included a fan belt and a conical air filter that has nothing to do with this car and many other parts but they don’t include a break Cable!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
My 20th Anniversary kit also missed the e-brake cables. Not on any paperwork. A call and they were sent. For the diff adapter, there are two versions. One for an iron case diff (manual transmission Mustang) and one for an aluminum case diff (automatic trans Mustang). Since FFR provided the diff in your case, they should have supplied the proper adapter. Hopefully they will take care of you.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
For the pump, listen to Jeff. Put the filter downstream from the pump. You're right, very high percentage of builds are using an in-tank fuel pump (when needed) so the location you have would be OK for that. But for an external pump, you'll need to change it up. Easier to do right now than later.
Check the specs on that fuel pump. I know the summit, Edelbrock and others like that are only good for up to about 300HP. Don't wanna starve that V8 when it wants to drink!!!
Higgy
Good call! It claims 38GPH @ 8psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by HiggyMK4#????
So, great news, as expected, FFR continues their high level of customer service and are sending me an E-Brake cable and the correct adapter plate. Only thing from me was to pay the freight. (Need to remember, this kit was bought 3 years ago by a different person, and they are still treating me like I bought it from them) Great company and support...Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
The build is on hold while we hunker down and wait for Florence to move through. Our area is under evacuation orders. I’ll be staying as I work at a Gibbon sanctuary and the 36 gibbons there require care Storm or not. www.ippl.org
Hang in there!!!!! Best wishes to everyone down there and good luck to all that are staying home!!
Higgy
Today, as we wait for the very slow and indecisive hurricane Florence to figure out where she is going to go I decided to put a little more time on the build. I finished up the brake lines by getting in the rear lines from the master cylinder to the back Driver Side and crossed over to the Passenger Side. Overall the install looks clean and good. I have one coupling that I have to buy to actually button up the system and be able to pressure test it with some fluid, but all in all it is done.
Attachment 93178 Attachment 93179 Attachment 93180
Now, according to the build manual(s) it is saying my next step is the wiring. I guess I will get started on that next. Not sure when next will be but should not be long after Florence makes her appearance. But like a bad mother in-law, she seems to want to take her time getting here and most likely will take her time leaving.
I've also ordered and should receive after this storm the lowered trunk kit from Russ Thompson The battery box from FFMetal and the Electric Power Steering kit from EHanson007 here on the forums. I'm also planning to modify and build my own cubby hole between the seats before the next step.
I'm planning to use the Lizard Skin Sound and Heat treatments on the interior panels after getting the trunk all completed. After the Electric, the build manual is calling for drive train install. I can't really be that close to that... I know I have a lot of panels to get in the back.
Should I get the electric wiring harness all run before the lizard skin???
I just posted a few updates starting here...
These may sway your decision about applying the lizard goo.
I had just posted my post when I then read yours... We are running pretty close to each other and I really like the way that you are documenting things. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Fixit
As Hurricane/Tropical Storm Florence creeps along toward the Charleston/Summerville SC area, I continued working on the build. Today I laid out and positioned the wiring harness. First thing I discovered is that I did not realize that the main harness also goes into the area of the Master Cylinders. My vibration coils in my brake lines had to be "tweaked" a bit to give room, but not to much. Also, the build manual (wire harness manual) says to run the Alternator Wires, Sending Unit Wires and then the Starter Wires all through the hole under the 2x2 frame bar on the inside of the DS foot box. Yeah, about that. The hole is about 1" in diameter. The connectors on the ends of the wires will not fit, not to mention there is not enough room for all the wires to fit. In all fairness, the build manual does say you may need to open the hole up to fit. (you think????) So, I opened it up and also cut a separate hole specifically for the rear wire harness. So at the moment, everything seems to route well and until the motor is in place I will just leave everything hanging. But at this point all of the harness is in the general area of where it will eventually remain. I have used zip ties, but the plan will be to put the harness in permanent clamps along the route of the run.
Attachment 93524 Attachment 93525 Attachment 93526 Attachment 93527 Attachment 93528 Attachment 93531 Attachment 93533
So tomorrow as the rain continues to pour, I plan to work on the build, not sure just what at this time. My drop trunk, Battery Box and E-PAS are all in shipment and on hold by FedEx, UPS and USPS due to the storm. I do have some nutserts to install, that will keep me busy for an hour or so...
So the rain from Tropical Storm Florence was non-stop today and so was my work on the build. I worked on 3 items today. 1st, I installed the Heater/Defroster heater core and blower motor to the firewall as well as the wiper motor. I've left the wiring part of those jobs for another day once I get the dash installed. 2nd I, temporarily, with clekos, installed all of the trunk sheet metal and the drivers compartment sheet metal. I would say that was a good 6-7 hours of my day. Drilling and installing clekos... It was a tough day on the 1/8" drill bits... not normal for me to brake them, but I broke about 7 or 8 today. I did not want to put any rivets in today as I have the drop trunk and battery box coming. I'm also going to be creating my very own cubby hole modification so I will need to be able to take all that stuff out to work on it.
And 3rd, I started a cool modification to the vinyl padded dash glove box...I will post the complete modification as soon as it is completed, perhaps tomorrow.
Nothing special about my sheet metal work, except I made it a point to drill only where I will need rivets after the drop trunk and battery box modifications are done.
Attachment 93607 Attachment 93608 Attachment 93609 Attachment 93610 Attachment 93611 Attachment 93612
With all of this done, I should be ready to make the drop trunk and battery box modifications just as soon as they arrive. I'm hoping to be able to use the scrap sheet metal from those two mods to build my cubby.
Coming in this weeks shipments I have both of my Chrome Roll Bars, Battery Box, Drop Trunk, Elec Power Steering Mod Kit, Drive Shaft Adapter plate, E-Brake Cable. Those Items should keep me busy for the week and into next weekend.
Here is a Sneak Peak of my Glove Box Mod:
Attachment 93613
Was able to put in another full day of work on the build. I went out and picked up a 3/16" union for my rear brake line and installed that. That concludes the brake system, now I just need to go pick up some brake fluid. What do you well experienced guys suggest for brake fluid? The Wilwood instructions talk about Hi Temp fluid. I'll need to do a little research as the best I've ever used in my cars and my simple race car was DOT4.
I also finished the front wire harness run through the cover plate on the front of the foot box and down the 3/4" frame to the bottom and accross the front to the PS. Nothing earthshaking there, just followed the build manual.
Now the modification I've been excited to work on. In the 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4, they provide the vinyl padded dash and I'v chosen to use it. The problem is it comes with a full glove box. I suppose that is not the real problem. The real problem is that I also have the heater/defroster upgrade and it installs directly behind the glove box area and uses nearly 95% of the area that would normally be used by the glove box. So the challenge for me was to create a glove box that was functional, looked correct and still allowed the heater/defroster system. I think I've done this. Now the glove box will only have room to hold a pair of gloves if needed.... wasn't that what a glove box was for??? Anyway, I'm thinking this will be a great place to put my registration, insurance, etc papers.
Here is the modification. So as it happens, the deepest that the box can be is the depth of the dash board flange. In other word, all I'm really doing is putting a flat back on the dashboard and creating about a 1" deep box. I started by figuring out how to cut the very back of the box off of and still give myself something to work with to attach it to the dash board flange.
I taped off around the box portion and tried to draw an even line all the way around the box. This was going to be my cut line. Once that was done, I put a cutting bit on my drimal tool and made a test cut in a part of the box that was going to be waste. I actually slowed the speed down from the 10 setting to about the 4 setting. I found it did not melt the vinyl as much and also allowed me to control the cut much better. I started the cut and went very slowly, carefully trying to stay just next to my line. It actually went pretty well. Once I completed the full cut, I then used my orbital palm sander with some 120 grit and smoothed out my cut on the glove box back that I just created. I then test fit it down into the dashboard glove box hole and checked fit. Perfect.
Next I followed the glove box build instructions and installed the hinges and the glove box front exactly the way described in those instructions. I may have used a little too much epoxy glue on the one hinge, but I'm not going to loose any sleep over this. I would tell you that if you are installing the hinges as described in the instructions, be sure to remove the tape while the epoxy is still soft. I waited and had to use my drimal tool to cut the epoxy next to the hinge so that I could pull up the tape. It was easy, but just an extra step I could have avoided if I had thought about it.
After the hinges epoxy set up, about 5 hours, I started on the back. I realized that I was going to have to notch it for the hinges to go through so it was a simple mark and cut with the drimal tool. Just a small notch for each hinge. Then I pushed the new back in from the back of the dash board. Took a little work as it is actually slightly expanding the flange on the back of the glove box. But it fit in perfect, I then used a straight edge and pushed the back in until it was flush with the flange on the dash board, Ie, the box was literally only as deep as the flange. I was not really sure how I was going to attach the back to the flange, but decided on 4 1/8" rivets, in the corners.
I completed the modification with the installation of the key lock and latch as described in the instructions. I had to grind the latch some because it was actually pushing against the newly installed back and this caused the lock to have way too much play in it. In addition to the grinding, I also had to bend it back into the box a little to get the adjustment the way I wanted.
I put it up on the dash hoop in the approximate position that I think it will be and I may still need to bring the back of the box in just a little, but as it is now I think it is going to fit perfect. Seems the back of the heater box is not flat, but actually intrudes toward the glove box. It's tight, but I think this is going to work great. If I do have to move the back, it is just 4 rivets and the latch screws and then re-drill for the new position and reinstall the latch and rivets.
Attachment 93656 Attachment 93657 Attachment 93658 Attachment 93659 Attachment 93660 Attachment 93661 Attachment 93662 Attachment 93663 Attachment 93664 Attachment 93665
For brake fluid I used the Wilwood 600 exp plus in mine. You are making great progress. I'm ready to drop the motor in mine in about 2 weeks when I have time and my help is available.
Booby Prize for anyone who sees what was done incorrectly....
Extra Credit if YOU did it also while installing the FFMetal Battery Box!!!
Attachment 93763
I'm just glad I caught my error before I drilled and riveted in the box to the 3/4" frame rail... No harm no foul in this case..
The long back brace is in upside down. The tabs are supposed to be under the 1x1 tube at the ends.
I've always used valvoline syntech brake fluid in my fast cars. Very high boiling point and can be had cheap at almost any auto parts store.
If you boil that stuff you have the wrong pads, not the wrong fluid IMO.
So I just spent the day with my head in my hands and did not really get a lot done. I mounted my dash with Clekos and inserted threadserts, I'm going to use shinny stainless allen head screws to mount the dash, Mounted the gauges into the dashboard and then hit a brain stoppage. I do not get overwhelmed very easy and not sure why I am now. I guess it is just that I only have one shot at drilling holes in this 20th anv dash and do not want to screw it up. So, here is a edited photo of the dash with the gauges, horn button, ignition key and headlight switch actually installed. EVERYTHING else is "Photoshop" on to it in what I'm thinking of for my layout. I have the L/R turn / high beam indicators above the steering column, I have the L/R Turn switch and Hazard switch to the left of the Tach... Next to the Headlight switch, is the wiper switch and next to that the Heater/Defrost Switch. I have also planned to put the Red warning light between the small gauges, most likely hooked up to the ALT, but I'm thinking that I may be able to actually hook it up so that if any of the gauges (Oil Pressure, ALT or Water temp) need warning it will come on... Now, I have two more switches in the kit that I do not know what they are for... Simple on/off SPST switches... ????
Also, if someone who has installed the FFR Vintage Gauges can help me understand the connection to the wiring harness. I'm I just going to be cutting off the snap connectors and hard wiring them to the RF harness? I thought for sure these would be a little bit more PNP. The only instructions I have are for connecting it to a Mustang harness and I can not seem to find any instructions as to the hook up to the RF harness.
Attachment 93986 Attachment 93987
I thought those 20th Anniversary gauges had the Hi/Beam and L/R indicators in the speedo. My vintage gauge set has them and that really helps keep the dash clean. The only hole I drilled other than mounting holes was for the turn signal switch. I mounted my wiper and hazard switches in the dash braces since I hope never to need either. Also, unless you simply prefer your layout, the speedo and tach gauges are typically in the opposite locations you have them in now. There should be some daisy chain light and power wires with plugs in the box with the gauges. I suggest downloading the latest revision of the RF dash wiring manual from FFR's web site. They've made several improvements in the manual compared with earlier ones.
Dave
Thanks Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
Do you have a close up photo of your spedo? IE can you see the turn indicators in there with out being lit up? The Tach and Spedo are in the same location as the FFR 20th and several other builds I have seen.... I thought the idea of the backwards spedo was so that the two of them come up from opposite sides together... or something like that.
Here are photos of theirs. I did rearrange the small gauges to my liking. I can also see in the one photo that they have small turn signal lights just above the steering column. I don't think these gauges have them.
CLICK HERE Attachment 94010
I do have the daisy chain part hooked up. But the RF harness just has the blue connectors on the ends of every wire where the gauges have their own connectors. I'll do some looking for a more up to date manual.
Here is a picture of my gauges. You can see the indicators on the speedo:Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1524421408
As for the connectors on the gauges for the sending units, I believe the newer RF harness has the plugs, mine did. You can always add them to match the gauges or simply cut them off and use a different connector of your choice.
As for the layout, I guess that really does come down to preference. The picture on the gauge wiring book has them with the speedo on the left, but I can't find any real reference to "correct" position. I suppose if you plan to race the car it would make more sense to have the tach in the most prominent position. For a street car, it makes sense to swap them.
Thanks Dave,
I just went out with a fresh set of eyes... The gauges came with a cable and sending unit for each one. First, I forgot the cables were in there and second when I thought of them, I thought they were some kind of special coaxial type cable. I can see now that I just have to clip off the connector on the dash board end and connect them to the RF Harness and at the other end of the harness, the same thing with the connector designed for the sender. Yup, my gauges do not have the indicators built in. That's ok. I'm going to mount the one push button for the setting of the clock and one for the spedo on the dash support just above my right leg/trans tunnel. Were you able to make the dimmer work through the headlight switch or did you leave it on the small knob that came with the gauges?
You will want to have the small dimmer in a place that you can use it. The headlight switch will not properly dim the gauges. Also, I believe Speedhut can add the indicators to your gauges for a small fee if you wanted to go that route. Oh, the coax cable that is in with the gauges is the GPS antenna. It will screw onto the back of your speedo.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAsp427
Looks like most of your questions have been answered. But several comments. Since the 20th Anniversary edition was released a couple years ago, indicator lights were added to the gauges from Speedhut. Yours (like mine) doesn't have them. Also since then the Ron Francis harness has undergone a pretty major revision. It is definitely more PNP now with the Speedhut gauges. But lots of builds have been completed with your revision of the harness and the Speedhut gauges. There are a number of threads that give wire-by-wire details. But it's pretty straightforward if you follow the schematic. Hopefully you have the specific Ron Francis harness instruction book. It's separate from the FFR build manual. Has some detail about the gauges, but mostly it shows Autometer gauges so not too helpful. Some guys take the provided Speedhut cables all the way to the dash and the instruments. I prefer to take the Speedhut cables to the gauge sending unit wires in the RF harness. Then the dash can be unhooked with just the RF connectors. But your choice and either works.
That dash is the "street" layout as you probably know. Traditionally the speedo is all the way on the left and the tach on the right. Check some vintage pictures. But do it the way you like. For your other gauges, I personally would put the oil pressure and water temp gauges in the most prominent locations. They're probably the two most important gauges of all of them. Agree you want the pushbutton for the speedo and dimmer for the gauges in a handy location. I like to put them along the bottom edge of the dash under the speedo and headlight switch. Makes logical sense, handy, and not real prominent. For these gauges, the LED needles are always on with the dash lights and not dimmable. The backlight is only dimmable using the provide inverter and knob. The headlight dimmer isn't functional with these gauges other then to turn the courtesy lights on and off. I like to put the pushbutton for the clock in the glovebox. Out of sight but easy to reach when needed.
Thanks Paul,Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
I was just looking at the most recent RF manual on FFR Instructions page. I think that the lights will actually dim with the headlight switch. At least according to page 55, 56 of the instructions. That would be kinda cool, but I'm not really that concerned as to how I dim them. They actually reccommend to turn the small knob to full clockwise and zip tie it up with all the rest of the wires in the dash and just use the headlight switch. RF Manual
I've got my head around this now and will have it all wired up in the morning. Now I just have to get some power for my E-power steering hooked up and ready for that unit to get installed. All the rest of the electrical I think I have either installed or just laying there waiting.
I guess it is all up to the builder. But it just seemed that all the dashes that were similar to mine had the spedo on the right and I guess I just got used to that idea. I just went to the FFR page and looked at the gallery of their Mk4s and all of them have the spedo on the right side of the tach. I think that if it is a "street" version, the Spedo is more important and if you were looking to race, the Tach would be best to be the most prominent.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
So question, using three diodes, do you think I could hook up "idiot light" wires to one light from all three circuits? Charging, Oil Pressure and Water Temp? I guess I would have to have separate sending units for the lights though.... Hmmmm