Thanks to everyone for the recommendations. I went ahead and flipped the shocks over and there is a lot more clearance as expected.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1524418202
My OCD got in the way while I was doing the flip and I pulled the springs off and flipped them over so that the "Factory Five" markings were in the proper orientation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1524418210
I started on the next steps in the book and sprayed the firewall and Wilwood front foot box panel with the same bed liner spray I did the F-panels with and attached them.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1524418324
I then moved on to the pedal assembly. I removed the pedals and drilled the holes for the switch mounts and then re-installed the brake pedal. All the bare steel pedal box parts are painted and drying before I can move on.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1524418332
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1524418342
Evidently Photobucket doesn't want me to use their service to provide "third party" links without a $399.00/year subscription! I switched to another service and re-posted my photo links in this thread.
I got the pedal assembly mostly completed today.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1524418467
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1524418473
Is this really the way everyone is attaching the throttle cable?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1524418480
No, your kit comes with two clip on ball and sockets.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
One for your Carb or Throttle Body the other for your Gas Pedal; however, it will work they way you have it shown.
Cool. I saw there were two of them, but again, the manual is a bit vague. I'll cut the ball off and use the ball & socket.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoDadGo
A bit more elegant:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4253/...b1c86b16_k.jpg
Consider getting an additional Allen Set Screws for both ends.
Some folks have had the cable pop loose so you may consider adding them.
ACE Hardware is where I found them.
Today I assembled the fuel tank and installed it. Thanks to some gentle nudges from the gurus, everything fits well and is solid after bending the flange flat on the four parts of the tank where the frame comes in contact with it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1524418659
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1524418666
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1524418672
I also taped up the inlet tube to prevent any debris from getting into the tank.
My axle vent is installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1524418778
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1524418784
Hey Papa,
Depending on how picky you are with appearance, you may want to consider swopping the black socket head cap screws holding the gas tank and the pedal assembly to stainless steel. I found after one season of driving (not trailering), the supplied hardware started to rust and looked like SH!T. Its much easier to make the switch now before the car is completed.
Good job. The build is SO much fun.
Looking good!
Thanks for the tip -- I just placed an order for a set for the fuel strap hardware. I think the pedal box hardware should be fine as-is; not a lot of moisture here in the high desert. I plan to make the pedal box top removable, so if I do have to get in there in the future, I can do it without contorting myself into the foot well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Howard
That bedliner spray looks great. What brand bedliner did you use? I've been looking for options other than powder coating. Thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by Papa
I assume you're talking about the inside driver's side footbox top. Would be nice if it were removable, but two sides aren't accessible once the body is in place. The other two sides are open, but depending on how you have things installed, might not be easy to reach. So having the entire top removable isn't really possible. Hopefully you have the sheet metal version with the access panel? That provides about as much access as possible with the body on. The outside driver's side footbox top is completely covered by the body, so assume you're not talking about that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
It's just RUSTOLEUM bedliner spray. I cleaned the panels with lacquer thinner and then scuffed with a red ScothBrite pad, cleaned again with thinner, then sprayed them. I got one can that wouldn't spray unless the can was upside down, but the others have been fine. Spray one coat then a second about 5 minutes later.Quote:
Originally Posted by RJD
Thanks Paul. I'll have to see what makes sense and I may have to create my own access panel as I don't believe I saw anything like that when disassembling the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
The DS footbox access panel hole is visible in this picture you posted previously of your delivery. Just under the rear left corner of the hood opening. The actual cover is somewhere in your box of loose aluminum panels. This is a standard feature FF has had on the Roadster for several years now. That delivery picture also shows how the footbox top panel is nearly covered by the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
I have the same Moser diff and installed a similar aluminum cover. Here again, I swopped the black cap screws for stainless. There's just something about rust clashing with aluminum that doesn't do it for me. One other consideration. I found the allen head adjustment bolts for the "bearing backers" would wick gear oil from the diff and look terrible. This was solved by removing the jam nut, cleaning the bolts with solvent, and applying a small amount of silicone sealant to the base of the bolt before replacing the jam nut. Not a drop in the 3 years since.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
I did the same thing (flipping the shocks) on my 2012 build. Over 20,000 miles and there's been NO issues. That's how they are installed in the FFR video that came out later.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
Thanks Paul. That helps a lot. I'll plan to rivnut that panel in place when the time comes, but as you said, not much room even with that opening.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Today I got the passenger foot box assembled, fitted, and drilled.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1524418879
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1524418886
All the panels came back off and were painted. Once they dry, I'll reassemble the foot box and rivet everything in place.
Making Progress Sir Papa!
Keep Those Pop Rivets Popping!
Very nice looking build! Keep up the good work.
I'm loving the pneumatic rivet gun!Quote:
Originally Posted by GoDadGo
Quote:
Originally Posted by KDubU
Thanks! I'm having a lot of fun with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vette1972
Looking good. My kit gets delivered in September. In the meantime, living vicariously through your build.
The waiting is the hardest part!Quote:
Originally Posted by RJD
Not much progress today as I needed to tend to other maintenance tasks, but I did get the passenger side floor in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1524419108
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1524419116
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1524419123
I ordered a CNC double fluid reservoir and will be splitting the front and rear brakes into separate systems for safety.
Attachment 70624
I guess now I get to figure out how I want to run the hoses from the master cylinders to the reservoir. I'm thinking of doing bulkhead connectors.
We had a sign in a sheet metal shop I worked in the read:
"It is a scientifically proven fact that fingers on the back side of the panel you are drilling are 25% longer than our think"
Keep that in mind when installing those panels. It's a tedious job. Quit when you are tired.
-Steve
Fingers are one thing, eyes are another. I'm wearing safety glasses anytime I'm drilling, riveting, or blowing shavings out of the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Straversi
Nice work. I love the look of the black footboxes with the contrasting rivets. Looks all business.
Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by squareback
I didn't get to work on the car today, but made a call to BluePrint Engines and ordered my engine and transmission. I'm getting their 347 with EFI, power steering, and the Cobra (427 style) valve covers. I'm also getting the TKO-600 transmission with aluminum bell housing. For those interested in driving their cars on the track, BluePrint is now offering a steel bell housing as an option. I told Pete that I would be passing through in August on my way to Omaha and he offered me a facility tour. I'll definitely be stopping in to check it out and should be able to see my engine in production if I time it right!
Papa-
Congratulations on the engine decision! You will be very happy with Blueprint engines! They do a very nice job, and build a quality engine!! Pete is a nice guy, and was awesome to deal with. I think you will be very happy with your decision!
Please show some pictures when it arrives.
Regards,
Steve
Thanks, Steve. I am excited to get my build to a point where I can drop the diamond into the jewelry box! I just got notified of more parts arriving next week, my wheels and tires!Quote:
Originally Posted by WIS89
Nice Progress!
Truck looks great too ;)
Thanks! Here is a better picture of the truck:Quote:
Originally Posted by BluePrintEngines
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1524419222
I'm the original owner and at ten years old it has just over 78,000 miles on it. It has an 8" ProComp lift and the tires are 37x13.50 on 20x10 wheels. I've had a little work done under the hood and it makes just shy of 500 h.p. and around 900 ft.-lb. of torque.