818Rasmus E Modified

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0076.jpg
OEM EJ205 75mm stoke P/N 12200AA240. Yep it's a de-stroker. Comes OE with the good crossdrilling for better oiling at high rpm.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0077.jpg
Weird coloring is from the nitriding process 3MI Racing had done to it.

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It's a beauty, too.

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And as promised. A Subaru EJ205 75mm stroke crankshaft next to a Cadillac 500, 4.304" stroke (~109.3mm) crankshaft. Banana for scale.

Nice score.

Are they still offering this for $2k? I'm telling you people this is the 818 motor to have.


ps you can send me the 4 extra rods. k thx.

Lol that comparison pic is funny, nice setup.

I want Popeye forearms! Lol

A little late on the Popeye I know. I do like the banana as your ref lol

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Welded up some angle steel to make a base to roll the blast cabinet around the garage. I knew I'd propbably need a bit of space for my foot to balance myself which is why that "A" is in there.

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Designed it to hold a bucket under the dump.

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A bit of advice, don't take your salvage yards word that they "drained all the fluids" to mean that they drained all the fluids. Mine was full of 5 liters of oil.

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Installed a tray under the engine stand to deal with drips and leaks as I disassemble.

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More disassembly.

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Ground off the heat shield stand-offs and casting flash from the exhaust manifolds. Porting will happen later.

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Looking at the fitting of the 2.5i NA intake manifold.

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Reverse angle.

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Left side looking down.

Numerous issues came up with my 2006 D25 heads and the 2.5i NA manifold

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The above is the right side head. Pistons 1 and 3. Notice the hole for the Camshaft Position Sensor is partially blocked by the manifold. Also the gasket locating pin is completely covered by the manifold. I had to pull the pin out to get the manifold to sit flush.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0124.jpg
The above is the left side. Pistons 2 and 4. Camshaft Position Sensor is partially blocked on this side also.

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Left side still. Gasket locating pin blocked on this side also. I removed the pin so the manifold would sit flush.

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Four of the eight bolt holes used to attached the manifold to the engine aren't lined up. These are the outermost holes. The above photo shows the misalignment. It's not a parallax issue. I'm shooting the cameras view straight down the hole. Notice the threads are partially blocked.

I didn't get a photo of it but it also looked like fuel injectors 1 and 2 would get close, if not touch, the AVCS solenoids when installed. I'll have to do a mock install and see.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rasmus

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0128.jpg
Looking at the fitting of the 2.5i NA intake manifold.

.

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Hi Rasmus,
I have a intake off an 06 NA Ej25. I asked my buddies at TIC (Turn In Concepts) if I could use it instead of doing the TGV delete modification.
They told me it would be difficult. I believe the fuel injectors are different also.

Is there a way to clean you engine block to make it as clean as your intake without taking it apart?
Bob

Would 8mm phenolics reduce the amount you need to grind?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy

They told me it would be difficult.

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It's looking that way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

Would 8mm phenolics reduce the amount you need to grind?

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It'd clear the gasket locator pins with an 8 mm spacer in there. I think you'd clear the left-head camshaft position sensor also. The right-head camshaft position sensor you'd probably still have to grind. I don't know about the injectors.

The mounting holes would still be misaligned.

I had to b@stard file the heck out of my intake just to fit the composite TGV deletes. With the right file it goes super fast though.

I can't wait to assemble the motor.

edit:
haha censorship.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

I had to b@stard file the heck out of my intake just to fit the composite TGV deletes. With the right file it goes super fast though.

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Good idea. That'll work easy. Only have 2-3 mm to file out. Looking at my photos again you can tell the holes aren't centered in the tab to start with.

Other issues with a 2.5i NA (Naturally Aspirated) intake:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1321b51937.jpg
Above is the 2006 WRX mainifold. Notice the angle the injectors are mounted.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...469e290180.jpg
Now the 2.5i intake. Injector mounting angle is shallower. Both photos were shot with the camera flat on my work table. So it's not an issue of me holding the camera at an angle.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0146.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0147.jpg
Just millimeters of clearance, and I don't even have the fuel rails installed. I hypothesize that the injector mounting angle is the primary reason they have clearance issues with the AVCS solenoids. I'll have to think on this one. Sure I can add a thick spacer in there to make room, but I worry about what the injector is pointing at. Ideally, I'd want them pointed at the intake valves. If it targets the walls of the intake, I may have to rethink this whole thing.

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Front lower control arms as received.

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Removed the casting flash and parting lines. Then baking soda blasted in the blast cabinet. Looking good.

what about switching to side feeds?


btw is your workbench 1/4 plate steel? remind me not to stop by on moving day lol.

Looking good looking good!

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Front knuckles and hubs as received.

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I don't trust that the bearings haven't been contaminated by rust/dirt so I'm gonna replace them. The hubs are looking crusty but I think I can salvage them.

Adios dust shield tabs?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

what about switching to side feeds?

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THAT....

is a good idea. I'll look into it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

is your workbench 1/4 plate steel?

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3/16". Same thickness I use on the Cadillac frame.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

Adios dust shield tabs?

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I'd considered this, but those tabs are an excellent place to mount brake ducts for a twice-a-year track day. I think 1 of the 3 can definitely come off though.

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Suspended my rusty hubs into an old-school anti-rust system. 5 gallons of water 5 tablespoons of Sodium Carbonate (i.e. washing soda) and a battery charger. The hubs are the cathode and the rebar is the anode.

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Turned it on and in 60 seconds you can see the hydrogen bubbles forming.

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After only one hour. Look at all that rust removed that now floats on the surface.

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After 6 hours.

Wow. I can't wait to see the part!

Attachment 25232

why so many pieces of rebar, are they wired together under water?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

Attachment 25232

why so many pieces of rebar, are they wired together under water?

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The rebar is all weld together to sit in the bucket just right. There's a cross-bar spanning the bottom of the bucket welded the two sets of rebar you see above the water. I'll take it out and take a picture. The whole thing acts as one anode.

Great stuff! I have the same intake that I have put a lot of time into porting, matching and beautifying. I cut away all the extraneous stuff and intend to weld a bridging mounting bracket for the fuel rails. I've not seen any fitment issues so far besides the spring-pins, but I'm not quite as far along as you and have only had it on a non DAVCS-headed engine mockup, so I wasn't aware of the solenoid interference issue.
I just looked at my current DAVCS motor, with Boomba fuel rails and no spacers, and to my calibrated eyeball (good to 5 BCH), I thought stuff might clear, as-is. If anything, it looked like some minor grinding on the solenoid bracket and possibly some judicious clearancing would do the trick. I cannot say that I can point to a motor where the intake was used in combo with solenoids sitting there. I do not intend to use any spacers. Again, this was with Boomba fuel rails. Worst case? Fill in and re-machine the injector holes?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scargo

Fill in and re-machine the injector holes?

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Good idea. I'll keep that on the list of things to consider.

Just for you LongIsland:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0172.jpg
There's my anode. Notice how the sections submerged below the water/sodium-carbonate are covered in rust. That's the rust from my hubs. It's more like a rust foam. Just wipe it off with a paper towel and the anode's ready to go again.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0173.jpg
After I take them out I hit them with acetone immediately to prevent surface rust from starting on exposure to air. Then five minutes with a wire wheel and they look like this. Put the rotor hat one of them was mated to next to them. Kind of a before/after.

very nice I use eastwood's rust products like www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-fast-etch.html

I used it by spraying surfaces and soaking bolts etc.. It leaves a slight zinc phosphate layer on the surface

That is awesome. How long did you end up leaving it? I can't wait to see the knucks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RM1SepEx

very nice I use eastwood's rust products like www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-fast-etch.html

I used it by spraying surfaces and soaking bolts etc.. It leaves a slight zinc phosphate layer on the surface

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Isn't that stuff just phosphoric acid? If it is, it's another good way to knock out surface rust.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by longislandwrx

That is awesome. How long did you end up leaving it? I can't wait to see the knucks.

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Left 'em overnight. Rotated 'em twice. The work(cathode) needs line-of-site to the anode. Rotating helps it "see" all the rust spots. You don't have to leave it over-night. You can kind of tell when it's ready to be rotated/removed when the hydrogen bubbling slows down. Some parts will be ready in about an hour. Great-gran-pappys plow you pulled in out of the south-40 after 70 years in the muck, might need two overnight dips with a light scrubbing in between.

Pretty nice stuff here!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rasmus

Isn't that stuff just phosphoric acid? If it is, it's another good way to knock out surface rust.

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yes, low % solution, also slows down activity when "done" leaves a nice dull finish the buffs up really nicely. Worked awesome on the bolts and I use as a prep for any bare steel to be painted. treat, neutralize, dry, eastwood "pre" paint prep then paint, POR 15 etc...

And yes, sometime a second run at the rust after abrasion helps finish the job

Rasmus, you do nice work!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rasmus

Good idea. That'll work easy. Only have 2-3 mm to file out. Looking at my photos again you can tell the holes aren't centered in the tab to start with.

Other issues with a 2.5i NA (Naturally Aspirated) intake:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1321b51937.jpg
Above is the 2006 WRX mainifold. Notice the angle the injectors are mounted.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...469e290180.jpg
Now the 2.5i intake. Injector mounting angle is shallower. Both photos were shot with the camera flat on my work table. So it's not an issue of me holding the camera at an angle.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0146.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0147.jpg
Just millimeters of clearance, and I don't even have the fuel rails installed. I hypothesize that the injector mounting angle is the primary reason they have clearance issues with the AVCS solenoids. I'll have to think on this one. Sure I can add a thick spacer in there to make room, but I worry about what the injector is pointing at. Ideally, I'd want them pointed at the intake valves. If it targets the walls of the intake, I may have to rethink this whole thing.

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In order for the 2.5I manifold to clear any head with an AVCS solenoid you will need a 5/8" or 16mm phenolic spacer. Also if you haven't noticed yet the 2.5I manifolds have a different fuel rail bolt style compared to WRX or STI topfeeds. If you need help sourcing either the spacers or some billet rails for the 2.5I manifold let me know.

http://i.imgur.com/O7rp2yI.jpg
Factory Five called me yesterday. They wanted money.

So I sent them balance I owe. My 818R should arrive in the next 2-4 weeks.

The only options I ordered were:
Chassis Powder Coat, black (only option)
Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seats and covers, black, count 2
Simpson Racing 5 point harness', black, count 2

pay up sucka! get those 1/8" drill bits ready.

I'm looking forward to this thread taking flight. Rasmus, it's meant as a compliment when i say you remind me of a mad scientist.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brando

I'm looking forward to this thread taking flight. Rasmus, it's meant as a compliment when i say you remind me of a mad scientist.

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haha yup, I expected his order list to be more like:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rasmus

The only options I ordered were:
Chassis Powder Coat, black (only option)
Flux Capacitor, count 1
Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seats and covers, black, count 2
Simpson Racing 5 point harness', black, count 2
Knight Industries Two Thousand, count 1

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http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...R/IMG_0260.jpg
Thanks fellas. I tried to order a Flux Capacitor but they were on back order. I'll try again in the future.

Why don't you just go back to the future to get it?
Oh that's right, you don't have the flux in the first place so you can't go. loll

GREAT SCOTT!!! :eek:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brando

I'm looking forward to this thread taking flight. Rasmus, it's meant as a compliment when i say you remind me of a mad scientist.

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As long as he's no Rocket Scientist!

BTW that's joke that the old time forum members will get...

:)

Attachment 25938
Attachment 25939
I am running a FluxDrive 7 motor controller in my 818Se.
I do have 90 kilojoule 75 kilowatts Flux Capacitor.
You need 1.21 gigawatts for time travel at 88 mph.
Maybe I just need more speed.
I'm giving her all she's got, Captain!
Bob