Camera's 818C

Added helper springs and rebalanced my front shocks. Here's my final corner balance. Slight improvements all around compared to last year, but with a more appropriate rear spring rate and properly sized dampers (twice the travel and in the middle of it's travel at ride height). Still waiting on hardware to bolt down the 25lb brick of lead under my passenger seat. I also torqued down all my suspension bushings at ride height which is something I didn't do properly when assembling the car. I had used a jack to raise the wheel some, but not exactly at ride height.

Attachment 211113

I'm excited to take a test drive and start adjusting my dampers, but it's been too cold here. Recommended to not put weight on 200 tires below 20F or the compound irreversibly cracks. And if they do get below 20F, you have to get them above 40F for at least 24 hours before using them. I've been careful all winter to keep the car on stands. Should get a chance to drive within a couple weeks as things are warming up. The tires don't stick below 60F so it's not like I could push the car anyways, but it would be good to find any issues now. Points races start 4/13!

Can you remind me where you ended up with spring rates? Did you start with 350F, 275R?
Also, I think you’re using driver weight when you corner balance?
Our weights are similar; 2325# for my R with me in it, tho I’m about 20# heavier than you. I thought the coupe might be heavier but I guess the R is similar with all the steel in it.

I found a forum post from Jim at FFR recommending the setup for a non-aero R as similar to the S but “probably 50# stiffer.” So I built my R with 400F/300R.

The S spring plan never really made sense to me though I respect that FFR did the right analysis and testing. My Cayman, and other mid-engined cars I researched, have heavier rear springs. So partway thru track season last year I swapped front and rear springs (300F/ 400R) and I have a splitter. Got a good corner balance as before and feels about the same on the track.

Now I’ve added a rear wing so may go to 500# rears as in the planned R setup.

Thanks for sharing your development work. I don’t know if I could tell the difference in damping rates, but maybe as I get more used to the car.

As another data point. I run 500# fronts and 700# rears on my R. I have quite a bit of down force and run on smooth high speed tracks mostly. I've been tracking the car since about 2018 so I have a lot of seat time in it.

I started with the FFR 350 front / 275 rear. Added 25lbs of lead under my passenger seat to get to 2330lbs (minimum weight for my autocross class). Corner balanced with me in the car (165lbs). My springs are now 350 front / 500 rear.

I read through a lot of posts from FFR and members (thank you everybody that's shared) regarding spring rates and here's what I concluded.

- The FFR springs were chosen as a compromise for the street (350 Front / 275 Rear). This is not a hardcore, optimized for racing setup.
- It's softer in the back (275lb) because the shock mounts further out on the arm (less leverage) than the front shocks which mount further in on the arm (more leverage means you need a stronger spring for the same effect).
- If you're building a track car or adding aero, you can swap the springs (275 front / 350 rear) because you need a stronger spring in the back to help with the added downforce
- Wayne ran 500 front / 600 rear on slicks w/ full aero. A member tried this and said it was too much for a car on street tires, so he backed off to 425 front / 500 rear.
- Bob eliminated his body roll by only upgrading the rears to 500lbs. No change to the front.
- Sixstar had good results with 350 front / 550 rear

To bring it all together, I used a dynamics calculator to find the appropriate spring rates based on my suspension geometry and it came out just under 350lbs for the front and 500lbs for the rear. Stiffer isn't always better. There's a sweet spot where your wheels react quickly to bumps but softly enough that your tire stays pressed into the ground. If your car hops over every bump you're taking weight off the tires and losing grip. Here's the calculator I used. This site also has a lot of great info.

https://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets16.html

My own speculation after upgrading my dampers/springs this winter is that there's a cost/design portion to this equation also. The rear suspension has a longer travel than the front. When you combine the yellow Koni's which have a short travel and a softer 275lb spring which compresses quite a bit at ride height, you can use the whole range of travel. If you put a 500lb spring on the koni, it doesn't compress much at ride height so the spring can unseat when you hit a dip in the road (you need a helper spring). If you upgrade to a damper with longer travel, once again the spring can unseat (you need a helper spring). I think FFR used a shorter damper + a softer spring, so the package was simpler, cheaper, and kept the spring safely seated. Even though it comes with lots of other compromises.

Thanks for the info...
I can't remember if you mentioned "vsusp.com". Another site to calc suspension geometry, etc.
My first calcs didn't show dramatically different front and rear wheel rates; maybe 1.5:1 rear and 1.7:1 front, but I haven't confirmed these.
A little warmer today here in Chicago, so only 2 months till track time, lol.

Lol I feel ya. I finally drove my car for the first time Sunday. Getting some days in the 60's now down in Kentucky. I haven't used vsusp but I've heard it mentioned.

Been playing with my damper settings but I need more seat time to figure it out. Pretty fun to play with but I'm going to drive myself crazy looking for perfection haha. My dampers have 18 settings for compression and 18 settings for rebound. 0 is soft, 18 is hard.

0C/0R - very comfortable, floaty ride

8C/0R - firmer over bumps, but bouncy

12C/6R - close to a good firmness, slow bouncing turns into smaller/quicker bounces, kind of like driving on a brick road

10C/10C - best so far, caught myself going 15mph over on the highway because the car felt so well planted. Not sure if good for street driving will mean good for autocross but this would be a nice starting point.


Rebound is interesting. At 0, the wheels rebound the fastest so it makes the car feel bouncy because the damper extends too quickly/strongly. Turning that up to 10 (should have gone to 11 for Spinal Tap) slows down how quickly the damper extends, which let's the car "fall" over bumps more firmly. Makes the car feel more confident in what it's doing even though you're slowing down the wheels' reaction time.

As always, sharing your development is appreciated; interesting and informative
The only time I've messed with damping adjustments was on motorcycles back in the day. Too much rebound and we'd see what we called "jacking it down." Couldn't rebound fast enough before the next bump, so you ended up compressed almost onto the bump stop.
Next time I pass thru on the way to NCM MSP I'll ping you...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by driveslikejehu

As always, sharing your development is appreciated; interesting and informative
The only time I've messed with damping adjustments was on motorcycles back in the day. Too much rebound and we'd see what we called "jacking it down." Couldn't rebound fast enough before the next bump, so you ended up compressed almost onto the bump stop.
Next time I pass thru on the way to NCM MSP I'll ping you...

---

I read about jacking down. Hopefully I realize it's happening if I go too far on rebound. Yeah let me know if you're passing by. I'm down in Lexington

I was test driving my car and changing damper settings last night. I pulled off into a parking lot to change the settings and when I started pulling away something in the back of my car was squealing and grinding. I was guessing my parking brake shoe had fallen apart because it sounded like it was coming from my rear driver hub.

Got home and lifted the car up. The rear driver wheel spun smoothly and quietly. The rear passenger wheel was grinding when I spun it by hand. Took off my rotor and this small rock fell out with a tiny chunk of copper metal which I'm assuming was part of the brake shoe. I think the rock chipped off a little brake pad at the end of the shoe. Put it back together and it spun quietly but my kid was asleep in the room next to the garage so I couldn't take the car out for a drive to confirm. Strange that the rock got stuck in there for a couple miles but couldn't find its way out. At least it was an easy fix.

Attachment 211614

There should be a little rubber cap on the hole for the parking brake adjustment mechanism. If yours is missing maybe it got in there?

On a similar note I have a bunch of points in my car where little rocks that size gather, notably around the battery tray and under the doors. I've been meaning to go through and make some new panels to keep them out. If I don't vacuum them out every 1000 miles or so you can start to hear them sloshing around when turning or braking ��

I did notice a dime sized hole in the backing plate. Maybe the cap fell out recently. The front engine bay collects a ton of rocks on my car too. Didn't notice it much the first year on the road. I think sticky tires and autocrossing kicks up lots of junk. The parking lots we use always have a lot of rocks that get cleared off by the first heat.

Also worth mentioning some of my damper testing last night. Most adjustable damper manufacturers recommend this method for finding your baseline settings:

Set compression and rebound to 0
Only increase compression until the ride gets rough, and then back off 2 clicks
Only increase rebound until the ride gets rough, and then back off 2 clicks

I was up to 14/18 on compression yesterday before my brake problem and the car was still surprisingly compliant. A little stiffer at 20mph than 60mph but I'll try 16 clicks next time. I didn't think I would need to go this high but maybe the last few settings will get stiffer, faster (non-linear). I'm having fun understanding all of this.

Drove around some more last night. I found 14 for compression pretty good. 16 was a little too stiff/jumpy for the street.

Then I only needed 4 for rebound to get rid of the bouncing. 8 was definitely too stiff, and 2 still had some slight bouncing.

Had some good weather this weekend to dial in my dampers. Here are my notes:

Using the manufacturer's tuning method of set comp first, then rebound (I have 18 settings for each knob):

- Compression 14 (16 was too stiff)
- Rebound
- 2 was bouncy
- 4 was good and compliant
- 6 turn in is noticeably sharper but too stiff
- 8 too stiff
- Result was C14-R4


Like I mentioned above, 6 on the rebound had such a better turn in that I wanted to try a softer compression to see if I could keep the higher rebound. So I tuned more from there.

- Lower comp to 12 (C12-R4). Too stiff. Even though R4 worked before, it was now too stiff. There's some ratio that works best for each comp/rebound setting.
- Lower rebound to 2 (C12-R2). Bouncy. Not achieving my goal of raising rebound.

- Lower comp further to 10, put rebound back at 6 (C10-R6). Great compliance, turn in is not quite as sharp as the old C14-R6 setting.
- Raise rebound to 8 (C10-R8). Too stiff.
- Lower rebound to 7 (C10-R7). Great compliance, sharper than the rebound 6 setting, not quite as sharp as the old C14-R6 setting.

Final settings, compression 10, rebound 7. Feels like the suspension has a wider window to work and is a better all around setup than the C14-R4 setting. My opinion might change if I have too much body roll or hopping during autocross, but this is a great aggressive street setup to try first. Trying to error on the softer side since I already put stiffer springs on the rear.


Also had a chance to start painting my wheel wells. I put this off for a couple years but it's time to make the car look more finished. Using flex seal liquid to paint a rubber coating. Cheap, UV resistant, and hopefully a rubber coating will damp the sounds of a few rocks.

Cleaned/scuffed the panels with sandpaper
Attachment 211818 Attachment 211819

1st vs 2nd coat. A small foam roller was way less messy than a brush. This stuff is very runny but self levels well. Just used a brush for edges.
Attachment 211817 Attachment 211821

Looks much better
Attachment 211820

https://youtu.be/H3WIBlYiWFw

Great video production!

I also thought the sway bar was interfering with my suspension. But, when I took the coil overs out and exercised the suspension to full travel, with all the parts moving together, there were no sway bar clearance issues. Looking forward to your handling impressions with no sway bar. At the same time (exercising the suspension), it was a good time to check bump steer. I was able to fine tune the steering linkage washers to effectively eliminate bump steer. The two pictures are the "before" pictures. Note the ruler height measurement and position of the top lug relative to the ruler. In the "after" pictures, after adjusting the washer stack, the position of the lug relative to the ruler is the same both up and down.

Maybe you're already doing this... I lowered the car onto the scales with 4 layers of contractor plastic garbage bags between the scale and tire to reduce any binding. Don't give up on getting the ride height even! But, I also get that last 5% can take 90% of the time.

Also looking forward to your feedback on those shocks. I'm still on my Koni yellows. What are the QA1 part numbers?

Attachment 212659Attachment 212660Attachment 212661

Thanks Dave! I was trying to adjust the sway bar with the car sitting at ride height, and it would always hit 1 of the control arms. When I raised the car with the bar disconnected I realized my damper extended another 1" so the bar had been holding up the suspension. Since taking it off, my steering is also significantly easier. Things were definitely interfering and binding on my car. Maybe my STi lower control arms made it worse? With stiffer springs and adjustable dampers to control my body roll, I don't think the skinny OEM bar would be doing much work anyways.

I maxed out the washers on my Baer bump steer kit. I still have some small bump steer over large bumps but it's not bad.

I bounce each corner of the car after adjusting my corner weights, and rock the car forward/backward while it's in gear to unbind everything. I just got an alignment and did some corner weight touchup afterwards. I did get down to just a 5mm difference between all wheels!

However, after my alignment the car was squirming side to side so I was looking at the printout and they accidentally doubled the toe I asked for. I asked for total toe in to be 1/16" (0.15deg) in the front and 1/4" (0.58deg) in the rear. They gave me 1/4" per wheel in the rear, so 1/2" total toe in. Way too much toe. Just dropped the car off again this morning for them to fix it.

Attachment 212786

Looking at my tires, they're all wearing more on the outside edge. My grip is rear limited so I'm focusing on those. -2.5deg camber gave me the best results last year. I tried more camber but it made my car hard to launch and I'd spin a wheel coming out of turns, so I don't want to increase camber. Hoping the stiffer springs/bushings keep the tire from rolling onto the outside edge so much. I'm starting at -2deg camber this year and figure I'll go +/- 0.5deg after I see how it's working at my first race.

Attachment 212787

I'm using the DD501 QA1 dampers. Recommended for a ride height of 14-15" (distance between mounting bolts at ride height). I measured an average of 14.5" between the bolts on my Koni's and confirmed with QA1 that these would be a good fit. I ended up having to put helper springs at all corners because the QA1's have more travel than the Koni's. First race is 4/27 so we'll see how they do!

https://qa1.net/products/proma-star-...n-to-16-7-8in/

Just got my car back and it drives well again! Now I know what a 1/2" of total rear toe in feels like and you don't want it haha. Lots of side to side wiggling when driving in a straight line. I'm at 1/4" now and the car drives great.

I've been liking just a little (0.04 degrees) toe OUT in the front and just a bit more (0.07) toe in in the rear. Turn in is amazing. In theory, the toe out should make the car a bit unstable going straight, but I'm not feeling it street driving or on 120 mph track straights.

That's a really small amount of toe on each (1/64" and 1/32") so I'm not surprised you don't have any negative effects. For all intents and purposes I would call that zero toe. FFR recommends 1/4" toe in on the rear so the car doesn't toe out under compression and cause snap oversteer. I ran 1/8" last year and did have some oversteer moments so thought I'd try a little more. They said it makes the car a lot more fun to drive which is probably true if you're not flipping back and forth between toe in and toe out during a turn. Here's my final alignment.

Camber
FR –1deg
RR –2deg

Caster
FR +5.1deg (avg)

Total Toe
Front IN (1/16”) or 0.15deg
Rear IN (1/4”) or 0.58deg

It did knock my corner weights off by 2% which is more than I expected so I touched those up again. I got all of my ride heights within 3mm too.

Before/After
Attachment 212867 Attachment 212866

A little shared learning for anybody that has had trouble with uneven ride heights like me. If you have a corner weight that is really low, and you increase the height at that wheel to add weight, majority of the weight is added to that wheel, and only a little to the opposite corner. But when you're near a 50% cross weight, adding height to that wheel adds the same amount of weight to the opposite corner. This only happens right near a 50% cross weight though. This means if you get to a 50% cross weight and one corner still has a high ride height, you can lower it, and increase the height at the opposite corner. It'll shift weight 1:1 and give you the same balance but improve your ride heights. We're talking small 1/8 turns of the height collars because adjustments get more sensitive near a 50% cross weight.

Autocross went well yesterday. I was getting used to my new setup and finished 24/69. Not an amazing result but what I expected for my first event. It was in the 50's so I struggled getting my Falkens up to temp. Everybody else runs RE71's. It also seemed like an oddly strong field. My place wasn't super high but the guys I compare myself to didn't pull away by much. 3 of the 4 guys in front of me in my class placed in the top 6... all heavily modified Miatas on 305 tires.

Anyways, not excuses. The car felt good. Definitely have room to improve but it was sharp without being bouncy, skipping, or hopping with my first attempt at damper settings. Turned out to be a great starting point. The rear wheels had some small spins as they fought for grip out of turns but very close to a good setting. The car tends to oversteer when pushed and I saved 1 spin. It does feel more on edge and likely to spin if pushed too hard, but I was getting used to where the new limit is.

I need to analyze my tires and chalk marks a little to choose what to do next. Not quite sure what to try to improve first but it looks like my rear tires would like some more camber.

Looking at my chalk lines and comparing that to my autocross feedback, the rear grip is still my weak link and needs improving. Just a refresher from last year's results:

- Gained 26 places when I switched from Kumho summer tires to my Falken RT660's
- Gained 8 more places when I optimized just my rear camber (-0.5deg to -2.5deg)
- Gained 21 more places optimizing my tire pressures (40psi to 30psi)

Crazy to see how much camber and tire pressure helped. Just as much as upgrading tires. I think my camber results are understated and it was actually very important in allowing the lower tire pressures to work as well as they did. So with that same thinking, I see an opportunity for some small changes to bring big results.

With decent camber, you would think that this part of the tire does the most work when accelerating in a straight line. Slightly leaning on the inside edge.
Attachment 213270

Then during a hard turn, the tire rolls flat and the whole surface is being used (ideally)
Attachment 213271

But I'm only seeing heavy wear on the outside of my tires. So much that it's a darker color and the surface is rougher than the rest of the tire.
Attachment 213272

And the inside edge is seeing no wear
Attachment 213273

Here are pictures of the outside and inside edges of my rear tire. At -2deg camber and 32psi I'm still using a lot more of the outside edge than the inside edge. The chalk shows how my stiffer springs haven't reduced how much the tire rolls onto its outside edge. So the first thing I want to do is increase camber to -3deg. This should shift some of the work (and wear) to the middle of the tire. Last year I tried -3.5deg and it hurt my straight line acceleration and lap times, but I'm still seeing a need for more camber. Maybe my stiffer springs and bushings will transfer weight better now and allow me to use more camber, because only 20% of my tire is being used to its limit. If this works well and shifts the wear away from the outside edge, I should be able to reduce my tire pressures a little further and improve my rear grip.
Attachment 213277 Attachment 213276

My front tires don't need improving yet. They aren't my current bottleneck and are wearing more evenly.
Attachment 213275 Attachment 213274

Lower pressure causes more compliant tires. At the extreme the rim yaws over the outside sidewall and pulls-up the inside sidewall.
Are you using a pyrometer? For road racing, a tire temperature difference across the tread of no more than 20 degrees Fahrenheit is generally considered ideal, with the inside edge being slightly hotter than the outside.

Pyrometer read low 90's across the tire. It was a cool day. A few degrees hotter on the outside. I don't think I need a huge change to use more of my tire. Last year -2.5deg camber was optimal. I might end up there again. Just want to see more of my tire being used. Bring up my average if you will. My stiffer suspension should shift some of the compliance to my tires since the suspension is moving less. So that outer edge may just always be working the hardest no matter what I do.

https://youtu.be/EvvxCNYLw-c

QA1 racing results go public at 8am EST

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Hello,

I just started reading this Post and its very interesting. I also feel the Shocks porovided are limited and qoul love an improvement.

Do you have a part number on the QA-1 shocks. ia have not been able to find any other palce to buy a different set of coilovers/shocks.

Hey, here's everything I bought to upgrade my shocks. I have a 4.5" ride height.

The dampers come with a plastic bushing, but the optional bearings make adjustments 10x easier and allow the spring to rotate a little during compression and keep things from sticking/binding
Attachment 215497

I bought 500# springs for the rear from HyperCo
Attachment 215504

Learned that the QA1 dampers had a longer travel and I needed helper springs + adapters for the rear
Attachment 215503

Learned that my front sway bar was binding with the longer damper travel, so I removed the sway bar. Which caused the front dampers to travel even longer and needed another set of helper springs + adapters
Attachment 215502

https://youtu.be/LBTV4_-V9OY

Had another poor showing at autocross this weekend. I'm getting significantly worse. Ended last year 18/100 and so far this year I've placed 34th, 35th, and this week....64th.

I'm starting to suspect my tires (Falken RT660's) have heat cycled out or were damaged from being stored at below freezing temps in the garage this winter (I kept weight off of them as required). The fact that I was semi-competitive at the beginning of the year makes me think more heat cycle. Bought them in April 2024 and used them for 6 events and now 3 events in 2025. They're also driven on the street a few times/month in the summer.

Here are my setup differences between each race. QA1 dampers have 18 clicks of compression and rebound.

End of last year (18th)
-2.5deg rear camber
275# rear springs
Koni yellows
Note: bouncing off bump stops, springs are too soft

Race 1 (34th)
-2deg rear camber
500# rear springs
QA1 dampers (comp 10 / reb 7)
Note: more outside tire wear than inside, need more camber

Race 2 (35th)
-3deg rear camber
Note: better tire wear, tire spin exiting turns, no performance gained, better damper settings might help

Race 3 (64th)
QA1 dampers
Early runs (comp 14 / reb 4, had 3 consecutive runs within 0.1sec of each other)
Final/fastest run (reverted back to comp 10 / reb 7 and shaved off 0.4sec)
Note: no grip, old damper settings felt better but only helped 0.4sec while competition gained 1.5sec

Final Thoughts
- Damper settings could be improved, but I still dropped from 35th to 64th place on an identical setup (tires seem like the bigger problem)
- I can only make it to 3 more points events this year so I don't want to buy new tires yet. I'm already out of contention in my class.
- Several sources say to run as much compression and as little rebound as possible without making the ride harsh
- QA1 recommends both settings are 12+ clicks for autocross (18 total clicks)
- My car feels and performs better when I do the opposite, lower compression and raise rebound (suspecting stiff springs need less comp)

Found this interesting post on the forums about running lower comp and higher reb with stiff springs. Going to try a low comp/high reb setup at this week's race. Just looking for something to put me back on the right path.
Attachment 216600

I enjoy following your development; tho my situation is different not doing autocross, only track days.
I love the RT660's. They are literally sticky almost like tape when I come off the track. It seems autocross is a whole different requirement. While we have an out lap to get some heat in the tires, you have to hit it cold.

I wouldn't know which tires are best. You may know Grassroots Motorsports Magazine and their tire performance matrix (grassrootsmotorsports.com/tires); that's where I get recommendations.

I haven't messed with my Koni's before, but after a recent track day and friend said my rear was bouncing thru our Carousel, I went up a click on rebound on the rears. Looking forward to the results next week.
Thanks for reporting

Thanks I try to share as much info as I can and see what other people have experienced. The RT660's did great for me last year but don't seem to be gripping for me this year. They usually take 2 runs to heat up before they're good for me. Trying to figure out if it has to do with my new springs/dampers or the tires are shot. As I mentioned, even on the same shock settings in back to back races I dropped 30 more places so I'm thinking it's the tires.

Yeah I've read the GRM tire comparison. It confirmed another issue I was having. These tires do way worse in cold weather than the RE71's everybody else is running. GRM said their cold lap on RE71's was faster than their fastest hot lap on the RT660. That tracks with what I've seen. I'll be switching to RE71's next year.

Let me know how that extra rebound works out for you. Playing with my dual adjustable dampers, the rebound quickly took away any floating/bouncing I had too.

https://youtu.be/9cto02BVmkk

Plot twist. I was 0.2 seconds away from a top 10 finish this weekend. I made some changes to my damper settings which completely transformed my car. Grip has increased dramatically, no oversteer, easy to drive at 100%, and my tires aren't dead yet! I'd also like to mention that the 12 cars in front of me have heavy aero and I still have nothing.

I did some grip testing this weekend to see if I could optimize the damper settings that worked so well for me in the last race. Not quite a skid pad, but I took the same turn in a parking lot 3 times per setting. I ran my current setting (compression 4 / rebound 6) first and last to rule out cold tires on the first runs.

Attachment 217321

I had a few take aways:
- The 3 best runs all had rebound 8
- Every new setting did better than my current setting (I actually find this really funny. Even when I think I got something right, ANY CHANGE yields better results lol)
- Compression isn't sensitive at these low settings. For rebound 8 there's almost no difference between C0-C4. Either the valving is less linear near the lowest settings and isn't changing much with each setting and/or rebound is more important.


Then I followed up with a smaller 2nd test for only my best settings. And out of curiosity, the old setting from the beginning of my season (compression 10 / rebound 7).

Attachment 217320

A little less clear, but here are my conclusions:
- Confirmed all the settings perform similarly well
- Even my old c10r7 setting, which I know is garbage during racing compared to my current c4r6 setting, showed the same amount of grip. So this simple test can't capture everything. I know the c4r6 setting is faster, more balanced, and makes the car significantly easier to drive.
- The c2r8 setting was the only setting to perform differently and it was by far the highest. It was also the 2nd highest in my first test. I think this setting has the best compliance and is the easiest to drive at 100% consistently.
- The c0r8 setting wasn't the top run again like in the first test. On the street the car does sway a tiny bit. I think bumping up to c2 would feel better.

This weekend's race is back at the newly paved, slippery parking lot so we'll see if my new settings are good enough to keep me from falling from 20th to 60th place again. I'll be updating my settings from last race (c4r6) to the new (c2r8) settings.

https://youtu.be/5gRwFvC9m90

I'm looking for two of these wheels but they're discontinued. Anybody have a set they're looking to sell?

Enkei TS-10 18x9.5 ET45 5x100 Grey

Part Number
499-895-8045

Attachment 217980

This forum is pretty dead; I'd try the 818 Owners Facebook group. Yeah, I know F-book is mostly for old ladies, but the Groups are pretty active. Also, maybe a Sube group.

https://youtu.be/h_larLszW7c

https://youtu.be/C3dNz6QlcJI

2025 was going to be a great sophomore season with my suspension issues fixed by upgrades. But things turned sour quickly, and I found myself scrambling for answers by mid-season.