Hood Progress and Prop Rods
I'm making some slow but sure progress getting the hood installed. My approach is based largely upon forum wisdom:
- Center hood in the hood opening. I used 3M 1/4" vinyl tape on the hood to show me where to remove material for an even gap around the perimeter. I used an orbital and block sander combination until the gap is a solid 3/16". My goal is to make the hood gap functional, not perfect. That will be up to the body Pro later on.
- Bumpers: tape down kit supplied rubber bumpers to get hood at even plane with the body. From a tip from Edwardb, I used my belt sander to shave the bumpers to their respective heights--see picture below. I don't think I'll put any bumpers at the front, as the hinge brackets seem to be providing adequate support. Note: I'm not going to install the bumpers permanently until I'm completely done with the hood. I'm noticing little changes in hood position as I center and adjust front hinges, and rear latches.
- Front hinge brackets: adjusted position of hood (forward/aft, left/right, and up/down) with the front hinge brackets to get the hood centered and in-plane with the hood opening/body.
- Prop rods: installed left and right SS prop rods from Breeze. These are 5/16" in diameter. Boy, do they hold the hood solid. I much prefer the look and function of the prop rods to the kit supplied gas struts. However, the DS gave me quite a bit of trouble, because it needs to lay down between the brake reservoirs and 3/4" tube. To make a long story short, I spaced the reservoirs out from the tube, and added a couple spacers to the rod keeper bracket. I also had to grind away a halfmoon shape below the plane of the hood opening. This created a large enough gap for the prop rod to nestle down in between and engage the keeper. See pictures below. Tip: this is probably common sense, but I recommend mocking up the prop rod using the positioning in Mark's instructions to determine best placement for the aluminum brackets on the hood. I didn't, and had to relocate the PS bracket. Now it engages the hood where it naturally wants to be.
Tip from Edwardb to attach bumpers to a block of wood in order to shave them down as needed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1680723665
As I described above, I had some work to do to establish a gap between my brake reservoirs and 3/4" tube. Here, the halfmoon shape I ground out is visible just below the plane of the hood opening. It's tight, but fits now without interference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1680723665
Top view of the same, but with prop rod in place:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1680723701
View of the PS prop rod.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1680723701
Two functioning hood prop rods. It's a good feeling to be able to open, close, and prop the hood in place. With two prop rods, I can lay down the one on the side I'm working, but still support the hood with the rod on the other side. Should be handy for future maintenance.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1680723701
I'm pretty far along with installing hood latches and hood scoop. Hope to be able to complete these steps soon and have a finished hood.
Happy building.
Trunk Lid and Trunk Prop Rod
I think there's a light at the end of the body fitting tunnel. Lots of new stuff going on here for me, but I was able to get the trunk lid on and prop rod installed.
Like the F5 instructions say, I started by setting the trunk lid in place to see which edges I needed to sand. Again, used my orbital sander (36 grit) to do the heavy lifting, followed by a block sander (60 or 80 grit). The gap is now ballpark with no interference during opening or closing. Sanded a fairly heavy radius on the inside top edge to give clearance for opening/closing.
With the trunk lid in place (centered), I marked the body and trunk with a Sharpie on the hinge side of trunk lid near center. The marks can be seen in the fourth picture below. Then I transferred the mark to the inside of the lid. Being able to see these marks while my head was underneath--see below--made a big difference in getting the lid set left and right. Then I tightened the screws on the mounting pads.
From there I moved on to the four carriage bolts that attach the hinge arms to the mounting pads. For the next couple of hours there was a whole lot of this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1682042921
The white towel is special operations equipment to minimize the number of dents in my Brain Housing Group. :p It took a lot of little adjustments to slowly creep in on the proper height and even gaps all around. Once I was in the ballpark, I made little adjustments one side at a time to finish dialing it in.
Here's where my hinge adjustment ended. Obviously, this will vary by build.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1682042891
I followed the instructions to install the latch assembly with one minor exception: I used 1/4-20 SS screws and lock nuts instead of the kit supplied #14 sheet metal screws. I added a dab of anti-seize to prevent galling.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1682042891
I used a 3/16" x 6" drill bit to drill the hole for the latch pin. Difficult to get the drill close enough with a standard length bit. Here's how it sits in place. I'll leave any gap improvement to the body Pro.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1682042891
I'm using the Breeze prop rod for the trunk lid as well. I like the simplicity, functionality, and old school vibe. I think these are designed for trunks without carpet, but with a little ingenuity I was able to get it to mount and fit okay despite the ThermoTec and carpet. Installing it with the gas tank and Russ T. drop trunk in place is it's own challenge. I opted for a right side install, so I could fit my hand through the fuel pump access panel to install the washer and cotter pin. Did I mention I'm glad I made the trunk panels removable? I think this is the second or third time I've needed access.
To avoid carpet twirling around the drill bit, I used a nail with a head the right size to melt just enough of the carpet. Used my little torch to heat it. I found it was an effective way to remove the carpet where I needed to drill without damaging the surrounding carpet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1682042891
Functioning trunk with prop rod. I trimmed about 1/4" off the latch pin sleeve to get it to fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1682042891
And finally, the not-so-much-anticipated, one-star-rated sequel to "A Door Opens. A Door Closes": "A Trunk Lid Closes.
A Trunk Lid Opens" (16 sec). https://youtube.com/shorts/4bRbvWkw1gg
Build Thread Index (Continued)
Treadstone Performance Air Straightener and Steering Shaft Finalized
Four Wheel Alignment
Go-kart!
Pinion Angle
Trans Tunnel and Starting Carpet
Trans Tunnel Complete and a Dead Pedal
Underbody Coating
Low Fuel Pressure Resolved
Carpeting
Footwell/Cubby/Trunk Lighting and Headrests
Headrest Extensions and Breeze Seat Bases
E-brake Boot and CobraHeat Heated Seat Inserts(scroll)
MetCo Safety Loop
NRG Steering Wheel Quick Release (scroll)
Body Fitment - Sequence of Steps
Body on for the First Time - Part 1
Body Fitment - Part 2 (scroll)
Body Fitment - Part 3 and Windshield
Door Latch Mod
Door fitting, Louvers, and Check Straps (scroll)
Hood, Prop Rods, Hood Handles, and Hood Scoop (multiple scrolls)
Trunk Lid and Prop Rod
Radiator Swap and Nomex protection
Foam on Footboxes, Louver Final Install, and Fire Extinguisher (scroll)
Windshield, Roll Bar Grommets, Seat Harnesses, Trunk Access Panel, License Plate Light (scroll)
Aston Lemans, Side Exhaust, and Rear QJs
Patriotic Bling
Mirrors, Visors, Splash Guards, Wheel Well Liners
Legal and First Drive
Coyote Engine Cover, Heat Shields for Sidepipes, and Door Panels
Radiator Panels, Grilles, Front Plate, and Wheel Spacers
_________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike.Bray
I purchased and installed the Breeze trunk prop rod. Then I saw the gas strut kit from FFR is only $50 so I bought and installed it. I really like the gas struts, open the trunk and it just stays up instead of hitting me in the head. I still have the prop rod installed as a backup, after going through what it takes to install it I have no plans of taking it out lol
The trunk struts are a good option, no doubt. Interestingly, since I didn't use the hood struts, ball pivots, etc. I think I basically have the parts for the trunk strut kit. Will likely list these for sale at half price. In my case I would have had to modify the Breeze cubby wall to accommodate the struts. I thought about installing a flanged sleeve in the rib for the prop rod to slip into, but not sure that's really necessary. Since I'll be driving in gel coat for a while, I'll have plenty of time to get some real-world experience to see whether "improvements" like that (and others) are something I want to do before paint.
One Step Back to Go Forward (Radiator Swap)
I have to admit pulling off the doors, hood, windshield, trunk lid, and the body was a little deflating. But, a necessary step as I have a laundry list of items that are either impossible, or a lot more difficult to complete with the body on.
Radiator swap: The biggest item on the To Do list is swapping the radiator. After First Start last June, I found a small, slow leak in the neck of the lower two inch tube. I patched it with JB Weld, so I could keep moving on to Go-Kart, etc. Long story short, F5 made good and sent me a replacement, but that one took a pretty good hit during transit. It took some back and forth, but they eventually agreed to send me a second one, and don't want me to return the first replacement.
Swapping it out was pretty straight forward, except for the fact I have a number of mods attached to it: (1) Moroso tank sits on the (2) Breeze shroud, (3) upper and (4) lower Breeze mounts. Plus, it was a perfect time to add (5) radiator protection (more on that in a minute). Suffice it to say, it took a lot of measuring and remeasuring to get the replacement radiator in exactly the same spot so everything would align. Precision is not my especiality. But in the end after throwing enough hours at it, everything came together. After a couple heat cycles, I believe I have a leak free cooling system. Yee-haw!
I'm using Gates PowerGrip hose clamps. These thermoplastic clamps have been recommended on the forum. I paid $5 to $6 each. The down side is they are one time use, and not particularly easy to remove. Sure enough, I needed the
Gates removal tool to cut them off. It slices them lengthwise without damaging the hose.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1683747443
Radiator protection (Nomex): There are several good solutions on the forum. I landed on the Nomex with Z Bar as documented by GTBradley and JB in NOVA. I used the 5/8" Z Bar as recommended by JB. I liked the price, and the functionality that allows for removal of the Nomex for cleaning or replacement without removing any screws/brackets. It just slides right out.
Here's a view looking into the slot of the Z Bar from Orange Aluminum. I ordered through Amazon (saved a few $$ in shipping).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1683734609
Here's a second view from the opposite angle.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1683734609
And, here's a view with the Nomex in place. I used a utility knife and straight edge to cut. The Z Bar holds it top and bottom, and the side tanks hold it in place side to side. The camera in my phone "sees" the aluminum fins behind the Nomex in this picture, though my naked eye does not. Hence the silver in the center. It will be painted with high temp. black paint. **EDIT**: it took two cans (12 oz each) to coat one side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1683747443
One other notable bit of progress is the headlights and all running lights are installed. I'm leaving the protective film on the headlights as long as possible. The headlights are "Lumen® SB7HLG201D-BLK - 7" Round Black Projector LED Headlights with Switchback Halo". For added daytime driving visibility, I wired the halo to turn on with the ignition. These are as bright as modern daily driver DRLs: just what I wanted. The running lights are LED as well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1683734359
I'm back to chipping away at the laundry list. Hope to have the body back on within a couple weeks, so I can move forward with some fun stuff like roll bars, Lemans gas cap, mirrors, etc.
Lund Racing Tune is $1,300?
I contacted Lund Racing about a Coyote Gen 3 tune. Apparently, they only communicate via email. No phone conversations available. Bummer. They're quoting me $800 for the tune, and another $500 for the RTD+ device to load it into the PCM via the ODB II port. I've read some threads on Lund tuning with Gen 3, and previous. Sounds like the ngauge option is no longer available because they're no longer in business. But perhaps a used one could be found.
I'm assuming there are other options, as $500 is a bit much for me to stomach just to collect engine data and load a tune. What device(s) or solutions have others used their Lund tunes, particularly for Gen3 Coyote?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1684433960
Louvers, Fire Extinguisher, etc.
It's been a couple weeks, but I'm making steady progress (at a Chris rate). Quite a few things checked off my list. Many are quite small, but here are a few I could photograph.
- Doors: Sanded down horizontal lip that runs along the top inside of the doors. I also sanded a generous radius on the inside of the doors to help with clearance when opening/closing.
- Hood scoop: I managed to incorrectly order two different lengths of SS button head 10-32 screws from McMaster to secure the scoop to the hood. No one's fault but mine. The 3/4" screws were too long; the 1/2" were too short. The 5/8" version would have been perfect. So, nothing to do but cut down 19 of the 3/4" screws to the correct length. Added a dab of Loctite blue to the acorn nuts.
- Rear cockpit carpet fix. Cut back a one inch strip of carpet along the top right of the rear cockpit wall to solve this unsightly gap. (For some reason my body doesn't come over the top of the cockpit wall far enough, and stopped my carpet just shy (3/8") of the top of the wall). Glued in a replacement strip that extends above the cockpit wall. This closed the gap, but now there's a noticeable line where the new strip meets the old. Ugh: fixed the head of that issue, but then the tail fell off.
- Leveled headers: my PS header was almost 1.5" higher than DS header. I loosened the motor mount nuts and lifted on DS header by hand. The motor rotated toward the PS surprisingly easily. Unfortunately, the motor mount pin bottomed out on the PS. The DS needs to rotate up another 5/16" for both sides to be level. I should get some additional help from the adjustable ball flange, but my guess is it won't be perfect. We'll see how close when I remount the side exhaust in the near future. Note to self: level the headers during drivetrain install. Wish I would have thought about that at the time.
- Louvers: installed the louvers with 10-32 perforated studs and HSRF. First time using that product. I like it because it dries fast (sandable in 30 min), but still has a reasonable amount of working time (10 min). Ventilation is important given the fumes. Painted over HSRF with flat black to match the Dupli-color underbody coating reasonably close.
- Fire extinguisher: I like Fman's setup. Tapped 1/4"-20 holes into the 2"x3" chassis behind the cockpit wall, and secured with flat head screws. It came with stainless hose clamps, but I'm trying the black cable ties for now. These come in Red, Black, Chrome, or Platinum colors, and prices differ based upon the finish (chrome=$$$$).
Sanded down seam where fiberglass sections come together. This way I won't lose as much bark from the side of my side arm while driving in gel coat.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1686602744
The best way I've found so far to cut down screws is to find a piece of scrap metal, and drill a hole the same diameter of the screw. Then thread a nut to hold it securely while cutting. This particular piece of scrap also has a 1/4" hole that's beveled to cut down button head or flat head 1/4" screws. The angle grinder makes quick work of the removal. Then I file the end square with a flat file, and remove any burs. Then hit it briefly with a tap to true-up the threads. If I had a dollar for every fastener I've cut to size on this build...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1686600587
I followed the perforated stud approach to mount the louvers. Note to self: save yourself some time and redo by installing these before applying body undercoating.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1686600587
Here's a view of the PS louver installed looking from inside the body.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1686600587
View of the DS louver installed. These are the assembled version available from F5. The openings F5 cut needed massaging to get them equal distance from the outer edges to the fins on the sides, and to get the top and side angles parallel to each other.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1686600608
Fire extinguisher installed between the seats.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1686600587
View of the mounting bracket from the top. I have since removed the plastic cable tie.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1686600587
I have several items in flight. Hope to wrap up a number of these items soon, including Vinegaroon of leather door check straps and lap belts, finalize seat harness install, etc. I just got the body back on yesterday for the final time (hopefully!). That feels good.
Happy building!
Windshield, Roll Bars, Seats/Harnesses, Trunk Lid - Part 1
Last time, I mentioned the body was back on for good (hopefully). It's a great site to see. From there I moved on to the following:
- Windshield
- Vinegaroon: I went with this option because I like the contrast of the white stitching against the black. I'm not sure if I didn't have the vinegar to steel wool proportions correct, but my size 00 steel wool didn't breakdown very well in the white vinegar. Even after a couple weeks. It looks okay, I guess, but not sure I would do this again. Here's a link I found on the forum quite a while back that describes vinegaroon.
- Roll bars: I previously drilled the roll bars, so the challenge at this point was more the trim rings. I bought all my trim rings (and harness trim plates) from Replicaparts (Mike Everson). (Compared to the F5 trim rings, I noticed they show much less rubber between the roll bar and the metal ring). I opted to use some 3/4" 10-32 SS button heads and locknuts I had on hand instead of the supplied SS taper head screws. I can confirm marking, drilling, and installing the rings is tedious work. Glad I went slow and took my time. As other builders have noted, there are a couple locations that are particularly difficult to get the nut on.
- Seat Harnesses. I anchored the sub belt through the Breeze steel seat base, and down through the steel floor pan. Used 8-32 SS button heads with nylon lock nuts to secure the trim plates.
- Seats: With the Breeze seat bases previously installed, the seats went in without fanfare. Just had to clip the seat cushion down onto the bar on the bottom side of the frame, and route the seat heater wire through a hole I cut in the ABS plastic. In a previous post, I showed how I swapped the Breeze supplied hardboard for ABS plastic based upon advice from the forum (water could be an issue with the hardboard).
- Trunk lid access panel: used a 5 gallon bucket to bend the panel around to get it close to the same curve as the trunk lid.
- License plate bracket: glad I double checked dimension between the #10 screws, as the template in the manual was more than 1/16" narrow.
Is it belt and suspenders to tap the posts and install lock nuts? Maybe, but I like it. Here's the PS side. It took a couple washers on the bottom and one on the top to fill the space so as to minimize tension on the brackets (and hopefully avoid a broken windshield later on). I used a longer 1/2" bolt on the bottom to accommodate the two washers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1687805631
DS: no washers, as it's easier to add them to the PS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1687805631
Check straps and lap belts after Vinegaroon treatment.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1687805631
Here's a look at the Replicaparts roll bar trim rings.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1687805631
I liked John Ibele's set screw idea better than the button heads I used during initial roll bar fitment. These 5/16"x24x1.25" sit flush and are pretty invisible. Great idea, John.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1687805687
Grandpa's 3/8" offset wrench was just the ticket to reach the elusive 10-32 nut on the back of the trunk lid catch pin. Not much room in there to reach it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1687805631
Seat harnesses in, and seats installed. Makes me want to drive it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1687805687
Windshield, Roll Bars, Seats/Harnesses, Trunk Lid - Part 2
License plate bracket installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1687805687
Like others have done, I routed the license plate light wires inside the trunk lid. Drilled a 1/2" opening near the right hinge bracket, and a 3/8" ID grommet. Also, installed a cushion clamp on the hinge bracket to keep the wiring in place. I put a flashlight behind the trunk lid so I knew where to reach in with a flexible grabber claw tool to grab it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1687805687
I installed Dark Water Customs access panel cover for a more finished look (will be painted to match the body). A five gallon bucket worked pretty well to form it to the curve in the trunk lid. Thanks to JohnK for the soft material rivet idea.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1687805744
Of course I had to test the license plate light.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1687805687
Aston Lemans, Side Exhaust, and Rear QJs
Next up was installing the Aston Lemans cap. This provided me yet another opportunity to relocate my homemade fuel vapor canister. Third time's the charm? Ugh. This time it was to avoid any interference with the fuel filler tube. I used 8-32 SS button heads and lock nuts instead of the supplied taper head course screws. It's just good to know there are nuts and washers on the other side. I drilled a small hole next in the recessed area (al la John Ibele) to provide a drainage path in case of spilled fuel (or rainwater!).
I will say getting the stiff rubber hose connected to the Aston Lemans cap and filler tube was a bear. Wow. Even with a little bit of soapy water it was all I could do to get it on. Once on it really stiffens up the metal fill tube nicely. Solid.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1688659647
And here's the Aston Lemans cap. Of course, I had to add a gallon of fuel through the completed filler tube just to savor this milestone...and to confirm no leaks. All set.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1688658161
Side exhaust with CobraStuff heat shields: I reworked the DS exhaust opening in the body to better match the PS contour. The good news is the ball flange allowed me to get the pipes the same height off the ground on both sides, and parallel to the body/ground. This was a relief since my headers are not quite equal distance off the ground as noted previously.
DS exhaust with CobraStuff heat shields installed. I bought these in raw stainless, so had them powder coated so they blend in better with the Gas-N pipes (Touring model).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1688658161
Drooping side pipe fix (my attempt): Given the feedback on the forum about this issue, I ditched the supplied rubber exhaust hangers and installed these from Moss Motors (1 3/8" x 2 7/8" x7/16"--the hole spacing exactly matches the supplied rubber exhaust hangers--bonus!). This is the same idea Fman documented (thanks Travis!), but just a different strap. I doubled them up for strength, and to fill the gap between the 2"x2" chassis tube and the bracket arm. I hope this does the trick.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1688658161
I hung the side brackets with 5/16"-18 riv nuts (a la Edwardb) instead of drilling through the 2"x2" chassis tubes and into the FBs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1688658161
Rear QJs: I'm using the Kleiner rear QJ mod. I bought a section of 7/16"-14 threaded rod to thread into the coupler nuts. The kit supplied tubes worked fine (now powder coated), but I had to trim the longer ones (inside trunk) in order to fit the nut and washer that's used to adjust the rear valance to match the trunk lid.
Here's a view of the DS. The bottom one looks the same.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1688658198
And the QJ all put together. These are the QJ plates from Replicaparts ($30). The fronts QJs are installed as well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1688658161
Build on!
