https://youtu.be/z85MwAmwJaU
Printable View
The final result that he used the footage for:
https://youtu.be/kAyuppLq6Po
James, You run with a tough crowd.
jim
Here's today's best run..
https://youtu.be/cUx6VTHRWmc
Love the sound of that engine. Would love to try autocross this summer, how difficult is it to understand/follow the course? From the videos it doesn't look that easy actually...
Steve
Steve,
Look for the local club/organization that does these things, they'll have more information for you. I used to do it with a group of Boeing employees in Seattle and Everett. They usually have the course laid out on a board or something to give you a general idea, and before each session you can walk the course to get a better idea. Plus, turns aren't that hard, and if you notice there are cones on their sides, those point the way for you to go, either around a cone in a slalom, or for larger turns like one point in the above video where there are 4 cones all pointing to the right for a larger turn.
The club will be more than happy to help you out, and generally you will be assigned a group to run in, and when its not your turn you are asked to go out on the course and work the corners, replacing knocked over cones after each run (if there are any).
It is a lot of fun, and you get to meet some great people while you are out there.
Good Luck, and post your videos once you've gone and done it. :)
Jay
It's THE hardest part to learn, for many people. I've raced before so understood "lines" although that does change a little on autocross vs circuit. But the hardest thing is that you get 5 runs on a brand new track every month! We walk the course - I did it 3 times on Sunday - and worked out the fastest route, but getting that burned into your head is hard. Apparently novices get better at it with practice, but this was my fifth event so I still struggle. It's so easy to get lost amongst a sea of cones. Sounds dumb, but when the red mist descends you just..lose it!Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
By the 3rd run you are going pretty quick.. then sometimes I push too much on the 4th run. And the 5th run is the fastest :D
"sea of cones" - yup, that's what it looks like, doesn't sound dumb at all. That would be my biggest fear, not even being able to tell what the course is. Maybe having a navigator like a rally would work! ;)
Steve
Yes, here's a trick. Join your group last or close to last.. depending on how many are at an event you might have 20-50 cars ahead of you! Then you have a chance to ride along with an experienced driver. Makes the world of difference. Also, have someone ride along with you! They can point the way. I know it's intimidating but after the first event you'll see that MANY people hit cones or lose their way or spin. At our event we had 40+ novices (their own class) so you won't stand out. I'm still very much a novice.Quote:
Originally Posted by FF33rod
Some pro photos from this weekend's run
Attachment 161999 Attachment 162000 Attachment 162001 Attachment 162002 Attachment 162003
Yesterday I had the steering apart - again - to replace my test column support. It worked well, but as expected, wasn't strong enough. It eventually started bending.
Here's a new one made from 3/16 plate, and this time bolted through chassis instead of relying on rivets. I'll keep an eye on it obviously but this one is pretty rigid. Driving impressions were amazing - it not only tightens up the steering again but has made it so much lighter (less strain needed to counteract from the slop I guess)
Attachment 162516 Attachment 162515
Today I spent a couple of hours making the rear LCA's and panhard bar level. Here they are back to where they should be - I'd unknowingly messed them up a little when the new (taller) tires came along.
I leveled the LCA's by moving the rear bolt into the top hole and leveled the panhard bar by moving the bolt from the bottom to the top of the slotted hole (on the right).
Attachment 162872 Attachment 162873
I also ordered some 7" 650lbs springs (up from my 9" 550lbs) for the front. 9" was too tight, so I wanted to replace them, and took the opportunity to go stiffer since I'm not likely to add a sway bar to the front any time soon.
What memories! My wife and I met running Spokes events...over 45 years ago. Last one we ran was around 1978. Gives me the bug to give it another try.
Hey Bob! You should come out, they are still a great bunch of people. 12 events this year, and a fun selection of cars. I’m 58 and having my second run of fun myself after doing a lot of motorsports in the 80s and 90s. Having a blast! If you ever fancy visiting Manor let me know!Quote:
Originally Posted by bobl
If you are working that hard on the steering wheel, you have an issue. You should be able to almost drive with your fingertips. If you are white knuckling it you are not able to feel the car. If you have to hang on to the Wheel, you need a lot better seatbelts. The steering wheel is and should be caressed as you guide you vehicle rapidly along your chosen path!!!
I’m not working hard at the wheel, I didn’t mean to imply that!Quote:
Originally Posted by peterh226
The steering is very light and easy. But the design and layout of that last unsupported shaft (and poorly fitting joint) certainly needs fixing on my car. If yours doesn’t need this fix then of course ignore me ;)
I've seen an FFR 33 before, but never when I had my car.. so today when Steve (sread) came into town for his ASE Master inspection we met and had lunch at Top Notch. These cars couldn't BE any more different! Steve's done a lot of cool stuff, so I took many pics to review later.
Here's a couple though:
Attachment 163391 Attachment 163392
Hey James - glad we could finally meet. After 340 miles today, I can safely say that an open top hot rod is not the hot set up for road trips. Got stuck in traffic again(construction) on 71 and was seriously worried my left leg might seize up. Otherwise was pretty uneventful on the trip home and the car performed great other than getting terrible fuel mileage. Will have to work on that. Am definitely going to get the top installed before returning next month for the Roundup. See you then.
Got my new (temp) throttle cable fitted after my old one snapped. Mechanical linkage is in planning!
Also fitted my new 650lb 7” front springs.. and it might sound weird but the car feels better straight away. Not sure how, but seems somehow more stable on the road at both high and low speeds.
Attachment 163482
Love the old patina look on the car! Gas mileage in my 33 is also a killer with the way prices are going up. I'm running an old Buick nailhead that drinks hi-test like your favorite bar friend slugs down beer. Only gets about 10-12 mpg. In the original car back in 1958 it was advertised has a high mpg car at 8-10 mpg! How things change.
Not much to report, building-wise. But I'm having a blast at autocross this year - 12 events - with spokes.org. Super nice bunch of guys and girls. I took an ax class with the club that was pretty amazing and taught me some cool tips to help me transition from circuit to ax.
I've also been flagging at the local track - harrishillroad.com where I earn an hour on the track for every race that I flag at. Two races every two weeks means I've got 7 free hours on a very nice track. I plan to go down there one Wednesday afternoon when noones around and have a blast.
I did fit a brake bias knob this morning so I can adjust it easier.
My latest autocross event, Spoke #5 at COTA. Much better balance, very neutral, by setting my rear sway bar to full soft. I've changed my style too, by deliberately starting slowly and building speed on subsequent runs. Makes me less "red-mist" and more calm. And calm makes faster autox runs :D
https://youtu.be/7CPy-igQ9ks
Some pro pics to come soon.
Attachment 167293 Attachment 167294
Attachment 167295 Attachment 167296 Attachment 167297 Attachment 167298 Attachment 167299
Which is the best one to submit to POM? I'll get my unpainted old bus in there one day :D
I like photo 4 the best!
Photo 1
I like 1 too..
I had put this off too long, so did some remedial work on the car this weekend. Moved the headlights up from the previous spot to up on the grill shell. I don't know where you're supposed to fit headlights honestly so perhaps my earlier position (on top hole of the big radiator bracket) wasn't the right spot. Regardless, with wider tires, more camber, and less offset, the headlights kept getting hit and moved as I approached full lock.
I had to modify a bunch of stuff and cut holes/rebates/slices out of grill shell and mounting spots to make this work.
This is what I started with:
Attachment 167405 Attachment 167406
By the way, for anyone building now, I recommend you make this cut so you can remove headlights without having to cut the wires each time.
Attachment 167407
Here's a comparison of positions:
Attachment 167408
A close up of how I had to cut the shell:
Attachment 167409
And the finished result. I also had to cut the headlight buckets, because the headlights wouldn't adjust enough to move horizontal, so I widened the slots so I could rotate the headlights in the bucket.
Attachment 167410Attachment 167411
Been a while! I got fed up with the harsh rattling from the exhaust tips - the last section coming through the side never did have enough room through the chassis. So today I finally removed the muffler and end pipe, and beat the everloving sh%t out of the end pipe where it goes through the chassis. Bolted it all back up and it doesn't touch or rattle anymore. That's after, what, 18 months? Just never got to the top of my list :D
Always feels good to beat the everloving sh%t out of something. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
Jim
Had a great bunch of answers on the autocross tire thread, so decided to look for tires - chose Falken Azenis RT660, 315/30/18 on 18x12 front and back.
Was just window shopping but came across suitable wheels at tirerack on closeout so bought FOUR wheels for $500. That's kinda nuts. I'll get the tires later..
Attachment 169767
315s on the front! That's gonna be fun to look at. Will be like a bulldozer coming down the street at ya.... :)
Well, 50/50 weight distribution, and the vette guys go 'square' so it'll be good for racing at least.
The new "race" wheels showed up - looking good! Still can't believe they were $127 each (67% off).
Attachment 170100 Attachment 170101 Attachment 170102
Also got a front sway bar from VPM (they had a shorter one that's not on their website). So I can experiment with where/how to fit that at the weekend. I think there's room, but need to disconnect shocks etc to go through full range of motion and steering, with both sets of wheels!
Attachment 170103
I received the VPM narrower sway bar (unlisted on their website) as it will fit on the 33 - with some fabrication of course. Need to mount it somewhere and attach it to something ;)
Here's a couple of pictures.
Attachment 170197 Attachment 170198
and a short video I made to explain my ideas to an engineer friend.. the audio disappears at some point - no idea why - but you'll get the idea. I'm pretty happy with the plan, but don't hesitate to make suggestions!
https://youtu.be/zLvVZxLrw4Y
Looks good James.
Let me know if you need some help.
Attachment 170233
Doug
It's been a fun day - but I got the front sway bar fitted and working. It's not perfect and will need some tweaking and improving.. but I have one!
I've been pondering all week how to best fit this - the chassis is very narrow at the front and that means that I cannot (easily) support the sway bar like it should be. This was the best fitment location though, with a 1" spacer.
Attachment 170311
Here's how I did it:
Attachment 170313 Attachment 170314 Attachment 170315 Attachment 170316
This location means that the sway bar stays out of the way of the a-arms and steering throughout all motion. I tested it with springs detached and car in the air so I could test full lock throughout full range of motion.
Now comes the controversial part (!) - the shape of the arm put it in a place that wasn't great for attaching to any a-arm. The linkage supplied by VPM was very short, but I was willing to buy longer if it would help, but in the end I decided to to drill a single 3/8 hole through the arm directly. Obviously this isn't perfect and loses significant strength from the tubing, but I'm going to experiment with it. I grew up too close to Colin Chapman to worry about a few holes in structural parts. ;)
After some testing to prove this geometry works, I expect I'll weld in a sleeve inside this a-arm or otherwise strengthen it.
Anyway, on to the pics
Attachment 170317 Attachment 170318 Attachment 170319 Attachment 170322
I measured where each of the 4 positions would line up, then drilled one hole in the middle. All four adjustments will reach this hole.
By the way, I tested this with both 19" road wheel and the new 18x12 race wheels - all have adequate clearance.
I went for a quick drive to test it - first around the neighborhood very gingerly, then a full check up. After that I went to some out of the way roundabouts and will continue to test it out. So far so good!
Nice job! Yes you need to weld tubes through the tubes so it won't crush when tightening the bolt. Maybe weld a tab onto the arm to bolt the link to instead.
Bruce
Yeah it ain’t going to crush.. but yes I’ll get this done.
Ordered some 0.5" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.37" ID Alloy Steel Round Tube 4130 to sleeve the hole - will have it 1/4" proud and then weld will add some strength too. Some good discussion on the Welding forum