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I guess I'm buying new ball joints for my aluminum arms... These were STUCK.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1632/...0117a894_c.jpg
Front suspension is well underway, with lots and lots of roadblocks.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1457/...1a8040a8_c.jpg
One such road block:
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Do you have to remove the steering rack to get this bolt in the race height slot??
About the bolt and the rack, what's the block? The bolt looks fully seated but on the pic it's hard to say the clearance on the nut side. For the street height you don't need to remove the rack. Is the race height located in the middle or top?
Race height is on top. The angled frame piece stops you from putting it in the same way that you can put in the street height bolt. If it goes in from the other side I'm pretty sure the rack needs to come out. Or maybe just the rod end/tie rod if you steer all the way the other directionQuote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Ha!! That damn angled frame piece! I have had that road block MANY times in different places, especially the engine side due to my totally different proportions and clearances (for examples I have trouble bolting the Porsche inner CV bolts and trouble with my exhaust fitment cuz of the angled frame piece). I symphatize with you. Can't help much on the top slot but how is it shown in the manual? If at all. Do they install the bolt before the rack?
And she's fully legal! Just got the plates and ordered the custom vanity plates. LOLDOORS is ready to hit the road! Except that it's in pieces right now....
Also got my bike permit for the GSX-R600 that I impulsively bought from a friend. Life's too short not to have toys, right?
Timeline of 818 legality:
11/13/15- Submitted paper work to NYS DMV (VS-103)
12/9/15- Got appointment with local field investigation station (Syracuse)
12/15/15- Went to appointment (in the pouring rain) and got a VIN
12/30/15- Local NYS inspection
3/13/16- 25th birthday/insurance coverage began
3/14/16- Got plates and ordered vainity plates (LOLDOORS)
??- First street legal drive...coming soon!
Approximate street legality costs:
Windshield: $700 + $110 (install)
Wipers: $185
Bumper: $30
Defroster: $20
Misc: $40
Cat: $110
Lights/markers: $25
Visors: $10
Tax + Registration: $975
Vanity Plates: $60
Sold parts: -$140
Net cost: ~$2,125
Street legal burnout? Priceless.
Congrats! Better wait to insure that bike until after that upcoming 25th birthday lol
It was yesterday ;) Hence insurance on the 818! I'll insure the bike once I take it on track once or twice. I mean, I would never track something I have insured. No sir :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
Absolutely! And toys are usually more fun when you're not too old. I mean we don't see an 80yo guy riding a GSX-R. :) There could be, but much less than 25yos. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
Hey FrankyBolt! Check that out, man.
Attachment 51532
Plenty o' space if you just turn the wheel. :)
Guess what I didn't even consider doing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Headed to the garage right now to try this out. Frank, you're a lifesaver if so.
To run R height keep in mind you will need to do some clearancing on the aluminum control arms, they rub the frame.
also if you buy the SPT arms they come with new ball joints so no need to buy new ones. just get new pinch bolts.
I saw in the supplemental information where they mention potential rubbing. What part of the control arm rubs?Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
If I remember correctly when I installed mine I removed the casting tap on the bushing mount to clear the frame. It is quick work with a belt sander or grinder.
Please explain the "new pinch bolts" comment. I had one come loose/fail. It was ugly.Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
Both of mines have bent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
For clarity, and I know you know this Scargo, but others might not, the pinch bolt is the bolt that retains the ball joint in the knuckle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
I don't recommend anyone reuse the pinch bolts ever, they are usually in rough shape when/if you remove them and god forbid you torque them and they break, it's a huge pain in the ***.
Subaru part number is 901000060, they are like $1.25 so why not.
Correct, you have to take the casting flash and then a little more off too get a smooth movement and make sure there is no binding during bushing deflection. Plaven's thread shows the rub nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Wright
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post121570
Thanks for letting me know about the flange bolts. I just ordered some and will switch them out. Proper torque is...?
37ft/lbs
All good comments on the pinch bolts. I'll be replacing mine, too.
Here's the part I needed to shave down. It didn't look like it hit but no reason to chance it (weight savings, anyone?)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1595/...4bf6453e_c.jpg
Spacers are made! Just need the torque spec on these bolts going into the control arm (can't find it anywhere online?) and I can start making spacers
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1660/...4a35aa2a_c.jpg
114ft-lbsQuote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
You are the man! I knew it was a lot but less than the 184 or whatever the rear bolt is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
184 on the big nut yes.
What I have gathered for the Front suspension with Alu LCAs and Wilwood Big Brake kit is this:
Front Suspension/rack
Transverse bushing nut 140ft-lbs
Transverse bolts to frame 184ft-lbs
Crossmember bolt to frame 70ft-lbs
Black transverse pin bolts 114ft-lbs
Tie-rod end nut to spindle 20ft-lbs
IFS bracket to spindle upper bolt 129ft-lbs
IFS bracket to spindle lower bolt 129ft-lbs
LCA ball joint end to spindle 37ft-lbs
Backplate to spindle 20ft-lbs
Wilwood Big Caliper kit bolts to spindle 47ft-lbs with Red Loctite
A-arms to frame bolts 100-110ft-lbs
A-arms pivot bolts 60ft-lbs
A-arm ball joint bracket to spindle 129ft-lbss
Axle nut to hub 162ft-lbss
Steering rack to frame 44ft-lbss
Steering joint to rack 17ft-lbss
Awesome. Thanks again, Frank. I made a Google Docs (here) with all of this information. I posted it in its own thread, too. Should be a good resource for all of this suspension crap. Any more that you have that I'm missing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
It looks like you already had the rear suspension specs so the front completes all I got.
Judging by the number of times I torqued and untorqued these bolts, the info has been very useful already. Every time I torqued I thought it was the last time but no, I always needed to remove and I will probably again for some reason. :)
We had to clearance the same casting marks off of ours. We went a little further by sanding off all the casting ridges. should have removed the sway bar mounts, but wanted to tune the handling first just to be sure we don't need a front bar.
Frankyboy, how thick are your LCA spacers? They are about 5mm to my eyes, is that correct? I am using 10mm thick, what are your expectations with yours? Gaining camber? Only caster? 1-2deg or aiming to 3-4deg gain?
They're 6.25 mm because I found a piece of steel lying around that was 75mm wide and 6.25 thick. Just had to trim the length and it was perfect!Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
I expect to gain caster for sure. I was at 3.5 last year and expect 3 more out of this. I think that's reasonable from what I read? I don't know if I'll get any more camber out of it. I only ended up with the spacer and flipped hurricane bracket. The mount I flipped back since it was so much of an angle (I couldn't get the bolt through the front bushing). I used a 50mm long bolt for what it's worth.
Busy weekend! Changed oil on 6 cars, finished up my front suspension:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1476/...b0350252_c.jpg
Started the adventure of making my own bump steer kit (don't have the spare cash for a Baer one):
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1483/...3ce94591_c.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1531/...1958de3c_c.jpg
(the etched mark is the depth of the OEM threads)
And refurbished my steering rack (with some help in getting the tie rods off from the rust bucket!):
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1714/...7063ce69_c.jpg
Also rolled the WRX fenders to fit my new Team Dynamics wheels:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1525/...45a76842_c.jpg
They look great and the 20mm extra width (255 wide tires) is appreciated already.
Bonus pic- it was chilly in upstate NY this weekend (yes we got snow today):
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1521/...35fb4b91_c.jpg
Have you tried something like the Perrin PSRS Offset Bushings (I'm sure others make something just like them), as you flip them and these take care of the need for the spacer. You can get another couples degrees of caster and about a degree of camber out of these.
Tony-Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
I've seen those before. I was going to see what my alignment was like with the OEM hardware then see how much more I want from there. Does anyone on here have the Perrin offset bushings?
The center drive 818 R is running these, they seemed pleased so far, they are somewhat worried about the wear on the front bushings since the rear are a lot stifferQuote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
Installed the new oil pan/pickup tube. I also removed the oil heater per Glyn's suggestion. Made a hard line out of copper to bypass it.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1490/...b964064e_c.jpg
Only reason the engine/transmission isn't in is because the shop forgot to send back my shift fork/throw out bearing with the transmission :(
Besides that, it's all ready to bolt in and do some street legal burnouts!
Not 818 related, but check out those Team Dynamics wheels on my daily driver! Had a wedding to attend in VT and had a ton of fun on the backroads on the way there. On the way back, I hit a snowstorm and regretted the whole summer tire thing.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1605/...22c1d2ea_c.jpg
I assume that you have some sort of oil cooler ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
I am not. I haven't had hot oil on this car (or my WRX for that matter) and planned to design/install a cooler this winter but I was sick for ~6 weeks and am way behind on car work. I figured when and if I saw oil temperatures that concerned me I would figure out a cooling solution, but they were cool the first 4 track days.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Does everyone really think such a cooler is necessary?
The center drive car removed the stock oil "thing" and and ran no oil cooler and the oil temps were up almost 20 degrees, so they are now having to install and oil coolerQuote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
Huh. I guess I was under the impression that the stock oil "thing" heated the oil up more than it cooled it off. I think the quickest and cheapest solution will be to run the stock oil "thing" for now. I'm super short on time before track season (spending the rest of the month in Asia) so I don't think I'll be able to get a new oil cooler designed/installed by thenQuote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
It seems that it really provides for heat transferQuote:
Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7
Frank, based on what a few buddies are running on thier track and race Subaru's and not having water or oil temp issues I just replaced the OEM water/oil heat exchanger with a new one. If I have oil temp issues I at adding a water/oil cooler in the radiator coolant line.
At my modest power level I don't anticipate a problem, we will see when we get to the middle of summer.