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Vidal,Quote:
Originally Posted by VD2021
Maybe your robot can help do bodywork! Program it right and you could probably rent it out to Tino to help him! I see a new business opportunity! Three exclamation points in a row. Wow.
Tino,
Ron is correct - you are raising the bar with your build. As is Vidal. Seriously stellar jobs from both of you. Me, I'm just sitting at the bar and enjoying the view. Just glad I finished before the electronics revolution!
-Michael
You are welcome to come to the BBQ next year. I would like to make it a yearly tradition. BTW, the word "crash" is banned in the GTM forum....just say'n.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukn4trbl
I'm finding it tough to imagine people are looking at my car as setting the bar when
I look at so many others on both forums and want my car to be at that level.
Maybe I can't see beyond all of the dust right now, but I certainly like the new direction
this car has taken since Ron dropped by!
Thanks for the BBQ invite, please keep me posted. Let's exchange emails
via PM and keep in touch.
Hey Jim I'm down with that idea. Would like to see the crew from this years BBQ + some new faces. Even that bussiness owner in Barrington, RI.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalstar
Word on the street is that he can lay his hands on any FFR product whenever he has a mind too.:rolleyes:
Ron
Don't be so bashful, your car will be one of a kind and many past and present builders will "borrow" ideas from you. You are building an epic car!
Yes BBQ next year too, love to have you and your family come. As for R.I folks, well hopefully he see this post or maybe I can beg !
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukn4trbl
Agreed. You are creating something new and unique. Think about it......The majority, that will take on a build, will be good to excellent with a wrench in hand and have little (if any) expertise with electronics. Usually choosing to just keep it simple in the proton/electron area.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalstar
A If it becomes an annual tradition:cool: it’s definitely going on my bucket list (but for the near future).Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalstar
I almost lost the H2O I was drinking when I read this :D. How I wish I had the time and resources to design a "FFR Bodywork Robot (FaBoR)" :cool:. LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by RumRunner
I'd have it moving across the FFR community, from build to build, doing a FaBor to all who require bodywork.
I know I have a bad habit of revealing photos before the task is complete, but hey I'm excited!
Just some pin holes to fix on the right, and some more grinding to match the left contour. I'm
pretty much ready to move onto the spoiler mount, then right side door. I'll save the fine details
for late Fall because it's about time I start driving this thing!
Attachment 32513Attachment 32514
I'll need a ruler to line up the camera next time...the car looks drunk. :p
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tino,
Big ole congrats, those tail lights look great, give yourself a couple of beers
Ok that's enough laying about, can't wait for the next set of mod pictures
So and get-err-done. Remember the FFR Open House is in June so time is a wasting :rolleyes:
Ron
Well, thank you Mr. Teacher! I haven't indulged in any alcohol yet, but I just might once I begin
the passenger side scissor hinge.
Here a some shots of the illuminated lights:
Attachment 32567Attachment 32568
Someone linked me to this product which may be a reasonable solution to form a gasket around the light.
From what I see in the video, this material will need careful application to ensure a smooth appearance once cured.
Anybody have experience with this stuff? Will it dry smooth, and not look like cracked clay?
Attachment 32569
http://sugru.com/buy
http://sugru.com/about
Out of interest for the Arduino programmers, I think I'll be able to construct some sort of traction control and/or ABS system using the VSS sensors,
and a one directional feed into the PCM knock sensor input. The processor is able to read PWM signals, and frequency modulated signals. If I can
monitor wheel speed on the front, and rear wheels then send a "false" knock input to the PCM when the processor senses a pre-determined differential
between front/rear wheel speed, the PCM will cut timing to reduce engine power.
Similarly, if the processor can sense that a wheel is significantly slower, or locked, it can send individual signals to channels of an
ABS module to pulse the brake.
Attachment 32570
The traction control seems to be fairly easy to program, but will take several hours of data logging to figure out
how much wheel speed differential and timing cut will be required to complete the task. Luckily HP Tuners can
be used to program the PCM to tailor the spark reduction based on the level of knock signal strength.
Attachment 32571
I may be completely out to lunch with this concept, but there's no harm in trying. I'd have to study how the OEM's
design their systems and use that as a guideline.
Happy end of August everyone! Can you believe how fast this Summer is going? Maybe I'm feeling the crunch because I'm itching to get
my car on the road before the snow falls!
I'm plugging away at the spoiler mount which requires some steel reinforcement, and fiberglass work. The shocks are too weak to hold the
hatch, and glass properly. When adding the spoiler, and extra material this thing will come tumbling down! The sad part is, I've already tried
a bigger shock which causes the hatch to flex as you push it downward. Hopefully installing the glass will make everything more rigid.
Has anyone used the stock hatch pin with success? I've decided to toss it, and find an alternative striker/claw combo like the hood latches.
The one that I received in the kit doesn't close properly, and feels "clunky"...aside from the fact that the mount is backwards, and modification
is required to affix the pin. Just as well, I don't think the FFR mechanism would have worked with a remote popper; yet another part that doesn't
work with the kit. :confused:
More fun with the Arduino processor however! I've been able to successfully program a Hazard light, and Fuel pressure warning circuit. Being
in the Avionics field, and an airplane freak I'm trying to add a little aviation theme to the car. The processor will run through a series of Power-
On-Self-Tests [P.O.S.T.] then sound a "Ready Tone" like the Q400 airplane. Once the vitals check fine, the Start Button will illuminate to indicate all is well.
So far the code has reached a few pages (typed), and I'm not even into the traction control, ABS, or Twilight sentinel programming.
Video of 3rd Brake light flasher circuit:
http://youtu.be/IBISGq08GgY
Attachment 32777Attachment 32778Attachment 32779Attachment 32780
Video of Fuel Pressure Warning:
http://youtu.be/Uej1e0YvtgI
Used some eBay 944 hatch latches and pins $40 put together a support and mount. Makes for a very solid support for the wing while keeping the hatch intact.
Thanks for the photos. That seems like a reasonable solution to lock down the spoiler, and hatch in the same breath.
The only trouble is my mufflers are impeding into the lateral space where the striker pin is located. I don't know if I'll have
enough room to use that setup. I'll check it out for sure in any case!
Sorry for this graphic image you are about to imagine, but I’ve been sportin’ wood all night!
The control processor has a wicked WIFI/Bluetooth module that can be programmed to my Andriod phone! Custom made app with voice control, system reporting, and remote functions! The possibilities are endless now. I"ll have to make my own video once I get it all working (it could take a while!).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41MRGjdVIMQ
As shown in the video, I’ll be able to program voice commands, or buttons to do anything that’s connected to my processor including starting the engine! All I have to connect is a relay to a specific output pin, and assign the voice command to the desired pin. Maybe add some other functions to activate A/C, NAV, or stereo to keep my eyes on the road while driving. Voice synth to announce what's happening too!
With this setup the processor can report back any sensor input to my phone, or computer. It can be programmed to send a text & email if any of the parameters are out of tolerance (IE: Such as Battery voltage too low).
If you’re thinking what I’m thinking…yeah, maybe in the very near future? I may have shot myself in the foot by posting this idea, but whatever. I'm too excited
not to share it.
Here are a few images of the APP that I'm building using "Eclipse" (which also uses C++ language).
Attachment 32875Attachment 32876Attachment 32877
More progress on the hood as I've finally cut the vent holes. These are
simply to drain the water, and give a little cosmetic appeal. I think leaving
the hood intact will improve structural integrity as well as aerodynamics.
Still some sanding to match up the symmetry on both holes, and then glass
in the screen mesh.
GTM105 turned 3 years old on the 27th, so he received a beautiful 14 inch
steering wheel. This thing is really nice with a firm, yet spongy grip. It kinda
feels like you're grabbing onto a fist full of uhhh...you know HEAVEN!
(*get your minds out of the gutter guys!)
Attachment 32993Attachment 32994Attachment 32996Attachment 32995
Electronic Start Circuit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noqxmdp5h8A
Last, but not least - a Twilight Sentinel circuit. Yes, I know how much you
love watching these electronic / programming videos. You'll be happy to know
I'm not going to post anymore until I can figure out the traction control coding...
then I'll annoy you some more!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDeVTut8YEY
There's some dude emailing me about my lack of updates, and how my car should
be done by now. I won't mention his name *cough*, but here's a little something
to hold you all over!
I've been hammering out the body work; the hood is ready to be 'guide coated',
along with the rest of the main frame. The clutch has been bled again, and the last
bits are getting cleaned up for the test drive NEXT WEEK! It's not even close to the
final assembly stage, but it has been too long sitting in the garage. I need to have
some fun before the season ends.
Aside from that, some new parts have arrived for the Arduino processor project,
and interior upgrades. The TFT mirror is beautiful in comparison to the plastic
model I had previously. This thing is a monster at 7 inch diagonal display,
and dual video input. I'll be able to set the Ardiuno to switch from dedicated
rear view to side camera when the right turn signal is active for changing lanes.
The GTM has a wicked blind spot now that I'm planning to install scoops over
the window area.
Attachment 33435
The parking system (SONOR) will be installed at the side, and front bumper area
to help gauge distance to curbs, and cars pulling up beside me. The unit senses
objects up to 2 meters away (~ 7 feet) and sounds a tone/bar graph as targets
get closer to the sensor(s).
The cool thing is that the Arduino will allow me to use the sonor sensors, and
RFID to illuminate courtesy lighting inside/outside of the car as I get closer. The
lights will only turn on when the RFID chip is within range, so other pedestrian traffic
doesn't trigger the lighting.
At the moment I have the following programmed into the system:
Twilight Sentinel, Turn signal/Hazard Flash Sequence, LED dimming, Side-View/
Rear-View video, Electronic engine start/stop, Engine monitor w/LCD readout with P.O.S.T.
feature, Fuel LVL low, Oil PSI low, Fuel PSI low, Fuel CUT, Steering Telescopic memory,
and shift light (adjustable). This processor is incredibly powerful, and has so much more
room for expansion.
Jason is working away on my console, and roll bar cover which will incorporate
a triple gauge pod. Now that I've cleared up some space on the dash I'm thinking
about adding a flip-up storage compartment. This baby was taken from an older
car of mine which I just happened to keep for a rainy day. If I can find some black
paint to match the interior I'll be set. If Jason sees this, he'll probably cringe at the
fact that the vents will intersect with his console cover. Don't worry, I won't do anything
until it's mocked up! There may be a way to raise the storage compartment high enough
to prevent cutting the console cover.
Attachment 33428Attachment 33431Attachment 33432
The traction control circuit is moving along. I should have a concept circuit ready
in about a week, and then try to incorporate everything into the car for fine tuning.
I'm going to use an accelerometer along with other inputs to help predict loss of traction,
and direction of slip (if any) to help control the stability of the car. It will also make
a nice readout on the LCD for showing cornering, and long. g's when accelerating.
Now that I have a 4 line LCD display I'll be able to keep much more on the screen
without the need for cycling inputs,or switches. This model doesn't look as much
like a calculator display either. Some nice blue LED for under interior/footwell ambient
lighting.
Attachment 33429Attachment 33433Attachment 33434
The ABS deal is also coming along nicely. Not much more can be done without having
an actual module around for interface testing. That's something that will get added
next year perhaps.
A quick release hub for the new wheel; it has quite an offset in addition to the steering
wheel itself which means the entire column will have to be moved back about two inches.
Hopefully there`s enough adjustment for that to happen. The telescope may also be
extended slightly, but I doubt it. For some reason I am not able to retract, or extend
the position? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Corvette column by chance?
I'll post one if I find it.
Attachment 33430
No more toys. It's time to roll out. NEXT WEEK OR BUST?
Tino,
Now that's more like it, don't know who that person was emailing, giving you a hard time about progress, it might have been your wife getting on you to Get-Er-Done :rolleyes:
Next week or bust is it? You don't need a double dog dare again.....Do You :confused:
BTW: You know the rules about the cruise, No Pictures, Video It Didn't Happen :)
Ron
A man with a plan, cool stuff.
The plan is in motion...it's all I think about every day. I wonder if my wife has noticed the lack of attention I give her lately *(the last three years!)? :p
Don't worry Ron, I'll get those videos and photos. I think you'll be impressed; you are a good teacher! If I find out who is sending those emails, I'lll
let you know!
A quick peek at the guide coat on the hood, along with my super cool dust booth.
I'll need to block out some of the tiny drip/runs, and maybe spray another coat. Hoping to roll it out Monday to blow some
dust off, and install some of the interior. So nice to see the car getting closer to a finished look.
Attachment 33522Attachment 33523Attachment 33524
Tino,
Looking good, I wish I would have done more of the body work on my car. It sure is coming together for you and congrats.
Thanks Doug, it certainly makes things more more fun after having a week of lessons. You can always scratch your paint,
and get more pratice.
I wasn't going to bother updating this until the spoiler mount was complete, but I tossed this photo on FB for kicks and it received a bunch of comments.
Maybe it doesn't look so bad to the non-FFR guys, however it's obvious this first layer of guide coat is not even, and still needs to be sprayed around the
radiator inlet.
I'm doing this just to make the car look a little cleaner when test driving, and it helps me spot imperfections in the body work. It has come a long way
since I began knocking down the flash lines. The clutch is bled, spoiler mount is 1/3 complete, and the weather may allow for a quick boot tomorrow.
Attachment 33826Attachment 33828
Hey Tino make sure that those tail lights are on nice a tight before your "quick boot" I wouldn't want to be around you if one of those puppies fell out going down the road :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukn4trbl
Ron
Trust me, after the first fall I have been watching them like a hawk! They will be welded, and glued into place!
Alright, so I was a little pre-mature (again). I have to stop it! Today the guide coat received some touch-up, and I started to align the hood.
The "warp" is so bad, that the hinges will probably need modifying, or custom made altogether.
One question for the paint pros out there, what's the deal with the patchy finish on the hood? There's no filler in that area, and it was cleaned
fairly well. It's not over-spray, or under-spray (I tried adding more coats in one area, and around the patch as well).
I'm not freaking out because it's going to get blocked down, but...is this a problem moving forward?
So Thursday IS THE DAY. Mark my word. 24 degrees C, and clear. Accelerometer in hand, and an extra video camera. I'd like to try some 0-60 sprints,
braking, and maybe a bit of cornering. I don't think I should do much more with a suspension that is not tuned, or not completely aligned.
Attachment 33889Attachment 33890Attachment 33891
How much does this Gen 1 body suck? Very much! Getting the hood to line up with the front quarter panels, and doors is beyond me.
I was really hoping to get some high speed testing under my belt today, but the hood was not co-operating. After lining up everything
as best as possible, and bolting the hinges, I'd end up with a tilted hood or the light bucket would contact the hinge.
Three hours lost messing with the hood, and it's still not secure enough for a good test run. I'll have to try plan B tomorrow, and hope
we're good to go! The cameras are charged, accelerometer installed, and fuel topped up.
Attachment 33939Attachment 33940
Here's a crappy video of the lights, and some engine idle (again). Sorry about the distortion.
http://youtu.be/8rlxiE0wdS8
I think I'll take a page out of Dave's (FraserD's) book, and make my own hood hinges.
Not only to correct the offset in the hood itself, but to stabilize the opening action.
Is anyone else feeling like the Vette hinges are unstable, and cause the hood
to wobble when opening?
I'm thinking a simple extended loop with bushings, and a solid bolt will do the trick.
Attachment 33992
Tino,
I think that you still need to maintain the offset parallel motion the standard hood hinges are based off of, (inc the corvette ones) that both rotates and separates.
My concern with the standard hood is that if you just rotate you will bury the nose into the ground.
Have a look at something like this style which is easy to make and mock up.
You can play with the lengths to get the correct motion in either a drawing package or with some shop scrap.
My current design, (not finished yet) is to use tube and bushes to cut down on some of that flex in the hinge. Mine has to be wider than high when it is collapsed.
Tino, Dave,
Just my $0.02. I remember when I mounted my hood. I spent a long time mounting the hood and making certain the alignment was good, that it opened smoothly, and that it didn't hit anything up or down. At first I was having problems similar to those you're describing. I then went on a little "fact-finding" mission, examining built GTMs in pictures that had good side views. I was specifically looking for two measurements: 1) the distance between the ground just forward of the front tire and the very bottom of the hood wheel well arch, and 2) the distance between the bottom of the nose and the ground at GTM centerline. After looking at many completed cars, I realized I was trying to mount the nose far too low.
With my ride height at 4.25", the two measurements I just described are 5.25 inches, and 7 inches (GTM GEN2 nose). I'm confident the 5.25" measurement holds true for the Gen I hood; not certain about the nose measurement.
With my hood in this position, and the fore-aft position of hood good, the lower attachment point on the hinge is nearly at the very bottom of the fog light bucket, and the upper mounting hole is close to center of the bucket. At least with mine, the hinges feel very solid and operate extremely well. The nose isn't even close to diving into the ground with the hood wide open.
Hope that helps.
-Michael
Attachment 34005
Michael,
The measurements from each end of the wheel arc to the ground are 6.0" (L) , and 6.5" (R). There is a very noticeable tilt when the hood is open, despite my
attempts to align both hinges symmetrically. I'm not going to fight with it too much at the moment, but there is a very serious problem with the hood itself.
Either way I slice it, the arc will require glass work to line up with the body.
Yesterday I managed to get some extended test driving, and logging done. It certainly gets hot in the interior, but I don't have the sides of the center console
installed. It gave me an idea of what sort of heat to expect nonetheless. With two cameras, laptop, and an accelerometer mounted I was hoping to capture
some decent video/audio. The WASP camera recorded inverted video (my mistake in the settings), and the audio is absolute junk. It sounds like a Model T Ford
idling! :P I guess it's because the microphone is recording audio through a plastic case.
Attachment 34252
With all the monitoring, and excitement I forgot to press record the accelerometer! I'll have to redo the test drive this weekend; just as well because after viewing
the logs, there is a nasty fuel trim issue going on. My thought is that I left a vacuum line (PCV) loose, or possibly disconnected when installing my exhaust EVAC?
Funny that the engine responded well considering the terrible fueling.
Attachment 34253
A little late, but better than nothing at all! I'll upload some data and video soon. Thanks for the insight on the hood measurements.
Tino,
I did not spend a lot of time on the wheel arcs and I did not add any material. Same with this back of the hood by the windshield. I think it is ok and I can live with it. Just my .2 cents.
Attachment 34259
Sorry about the late reply Doug, I've been MIA for a while. I'm going to continue working on the front end, and wheel wells especially since learning a few things
from Ron. After going this far, and ending another season, I'll spend the Winter making it right.
It has been a cold and rainy October, but I managed some test & tune this week. The fuel trims are looking much better than the previous post, and still much
more to improve upon. The throttle response was definitely nicer, and the trims are not maxing out. I even remembered to press record on the G-Tech, however
there isn't much to see with moderate cruising around the neighbourhood. If the Weather co-operates Thursday, or Friday I'll hit the highway (after renewing my
plates - happy belated Bday to mE!!!).
Attachment 34674Attachment 34675
Some glamour shots (*one edited with shaved handles, and fake primer) of the current body condition, along with a video.
Excuse the talking the background; too many people around today to get any recording complete. As you can see the front
door needs major repair, and modification to increase the hinge angle.
Attachment 34676Attachment 34677Attachment 34678
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=we_vkVpfl-0
More tuning, and Arduino programming complete! I've had the car out a few more times to iron out the baseline VE, and MAF tables.
It took a while, but it's pretty much dead-on for the idle, and most of the cruise cells. It's accelerating really well, and more impressive
is that my TPS was only opening 47% according to HP Tuners (which means the engine never entered PE Mode)! :D
Once I fix the accelerator linkage, I'll be out again. I can't wait to feel this engine pull with a full opened throttle blade, and the
correct timing/fuel tables for wide-open-throttle.
This week I received the last of the sensors for the traction control, and ABS project. Even picked up RFID cards, a voice
module, WIFI, hydrometer (for the traction ctrl), and a couple of 8 position joysticks (one for the mirrors, and one for the
Arduino menu select).
Last but not least, a 3.5" touchscreen with a dedicated processor. It will be used as the control GUI (interface) for the
Arduino. The only trouble is, I'm having a hell of a time getting the touchscreen to respond.
Attachment 34963Attachment 34964Attachment 34965Attachment 34966
For those with cable throttle links, pay close attention. Always check for full travel!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qP75vbv2nc
Tino,
If the cable is just slack when the throttle is off and the TPS is showing 0% then it looks like you will need a smaller diameter cam on the throttle body shaft, if you put a bigger cam on then you will need more movement of the cable to get the shaft to move the same degrees of rotation. Be careful as when you put a smaller cam on then the throttle will become more sensitive to changes in throttle position. If you can measure the degrees of travel for the shaft from zero to 100% and the amount of travel for the cable then you should be able to work out the correct diameter of the cam you need.
Cable travel = 2 x 3.14 x radius x (degrees of rotation/360).
Another option is to change the amount accelerator pedal movement.
Hope that helps
Ah yes, got that backwards!
I thought about bending the rod on the lower side of the accelerator pedal upward. I think that might give me enough travel to rotate the throttle blade fully.
If not, i'll try a SMALLER cam on the TPS!
Made some major headway with programming this week, and correcting
the TPS/Throttle blade opening.
It was enough to re-work the accelerator pedal to get more rotation; that
little bump between the floor pan, and pedal was impeding the motion.
I'm anxious to see what kind of damage I can achieve with 100% of the
airflow, as opposed to 47%. This will not go well for the tires! :evil:
Here's a video of some wireless action with the Arduino:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pfBCieR4Mc
Finally figured out the touchscreen for my custom processor interface! Sorry it's out of focus; for some reason my
cell phone won't lock onto the text!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xtz6aoIW0zY
I've been spending more time on programming than physical work on the car. That's probably not good practice if I want to drive the
car this season, but I'll put this to rest soon (I hope).
I'm pretty certain I'll replace my analog gauges for an LCD screen, and use a software program called, "Processing" to design a graphic
layout for the dash. At the moment, I'm copying certain elements of the Cadillac cluster, and adding my own ideas. I like the digital
representation of analog style gauges, so this is my first draft concept.
With each mode, I'll have different annunciators present by selecting an option on the control screen, or when the software senses
Wide open throttle (Sport/Race mode). I'm trying to keep the screen as clean as possible to allow for quick scanning of essential
information, while having the center regions of the speedometer, tachometer and fuel/temp display reserved for random messages.
The most basic screen might look something like this, with a less "busy" speedometer scale:
Attachment 36372
For cruising around town, and highway, the basic screen will be used with subtle messages
if certain criteria is triggered.
Attachment 36373
For track/sport mode, there will be yellow "Shift Lights" across the top of the display, and numeric
readouts for Gear, and Speed. The RPM gauge will also use a solid Band to indicate the engine speed
as opposed to a needle (not drawn), and accelerometer info (not shown).
The two circles on the speedometer scale represent the upper, and lower speed range for the gear
above, and below the current selected gear. It will let me know if I can down shift without over-rev'ing,
or upshift without loading the engine during hard acceleration. Those points will have to be tweaked
during track testing for best acceleration.
Attachment 36374
For the last mode, I think I'll add readouts for a "tuning mode" that will show more engine
sensors like IAT, Knock, TX temp, etc.
Ya, I know I'm a geek.